Official REL Subwoofer thread... - Page 29 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #841 of 864 Old 03-14-2016, 07:31 PM
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I did not know this. I just always was told differently. Of course the last time I looked at 15"+ was in the early 80's. I knew like Punch car audio. That's probably why I fell victim to that myth. I do not know a lot of stuff about AV equipment so please bear with me. My opinion on Rel was not based on the quality but rather the dissection of a splendid company. Which of course may also not hold true. To be honest I got upset because sumiko was rude to me.
I was wondering why some of you guys have multiples of the same equipment?
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post #842 of 864 Old 03-15-2016, 12:44 AM
 
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Originally Posted by TriTon464 View Post
I did not know this. I just always was told differently. Of course the last time I looked at 15"+ was in the early 80's. I knew like Punch car audio. That's probably why I fell victim to that myth. I do not know a lot of stuff about AV equipment so please bear with me. My opinion on Rel was not based on the quality but rather the dissection of a splendid company. Which of course may also not hold true. To be honest I got upset because sumiko was rude to me.
I was wondering why some of you guys have multiples of the same equipment?
The quality of the Rel sub isn't a particular issue, if you're thinking of longevity and aesthetics. As far as performance....they're not as good as a lot of other choices IMO. Nothing to do with the company, few audio products are made by their founders (altho in sub world guys like Mark Seaton, Jeff Permanian, Dave Gage and Nathan Funk can still be dealt with directly and with their own offerings). Rel I think has been resting on some dubious laurels for too long (no matter who the current owner of the brand is)...I'd much rather use my diy subs than anything Rel offers.
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post #843 of 864 Old 03-15-2016, 07:31 PM
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This ML is of course much more formidable than the tiny rel. However I have it turned way down. I am not sure it is appropriate for me. I listen to music in here. I do not want pounding just lower end reinforcement. It will certainly do that but the volume is less than 1/4. In that regard I am not sure if I have purchased "too much" sub for my needs. Granted it is not the best sub either but I feel it is better than what I had in here. I am sure if that is not due solely to sheer power rather than quality though. I was just wondering what you would get say under 4 grand. I am not capable of building one. I saw that Hawaii home theater thread. It is amazing non tradesman can do stuff like that. I couldn't even begin to build a sub. I assure you of that. So, having to purchase one did I make a good decision? I apologize that this is the Rel thread. I would certainly consider Rel but you just said it is not all that. Just not sure I made the right purchase. Happy with the sound but I am not really sure I am using it's potential. I am sorry I do not know about this stuff please bear with me.
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post #844 of 864 Old 03-15-2016, 08:39 PM
 
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This ML is of course much more formidable than the tiny rel. However I have it turned way down. I am not sure it is appropriate for me. I listen to music in here. I do not want pounding just lower end reinforcement. It will certainly do that but the volume is less than 1/4. In that regard I am not sure if I have purchased "too much" sub for my needs. Granted it is not the best sub either but I feel it is better than what I had in here. I am sure if that is not due solely to sheer power rather than quality though. I was just wondering what you would get say under 4 grand. I am not capable of building one. I saw that Hawaii home theater thread. It is amazing non tradesman can do stuff like that. I couldn't even begin to build a sub. I assure you of that. So, having to purchase one did I make a good decision? I apologize that this is the Rel thread. I would certainly consider Rel but you just said it is not all that. Just not sure I made the right purchase. Happy with the sound but I am not really sure I am using it's potential. I am sorry I do not know about this stuff please bear with me.
Once properly calibrated and integrated the position of the gain adustment on the sub is irrelevant and doesn't indicate much of anything except that your line in has sufficient voltage to drive the sub amp.
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post #845 of 864 Old 03-16-2016, 03:04 AM
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good to know. thank you. I thought I was wasting it's potential. i do not know much about AV.
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post #846 of 864 Old 04-13-2016, 01:01 AM
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Okay, more problems. I thought this was over. I feel wireless sucks. I cannot have a front firing sub with a cloth grill because our cats will make quick work of it. So i am back to limitations of a 10" square cube. I know no sub that size will do much but my speakers go very low. i just want some light reinforcement so it should suffice.

Here is a question. In fact I may have asked before. Many people say the q108 MKII is comparable if not better to the T5I. It certainly has better specs. It really does have no problem hitting 20Hz but I really only need it to go to 35Hz. Of course according To Sumiko the T5I is vastly superior to the Q108MKII. What do you guys think?
I do not care about made in china at this point just want a better sub. Plus I have a large investment in a speakon cable. You are free to recommend other brands however, but in a 10" cube I am not geting much any way you cut it.

There is MJ Acoustics and I could probably stretch to their 11". I imagine their quotes of 13HZ is at -10DB but that is fine. I was wondering why MJ is so much more expensive in the US than it is in the UK? I could just order from the UK and there is no VAT then either.

I was just wondering what you guys would recommend now that I am back to that tiny size and must be down firing sealed box. No radiators either. As I said I only need to hit 35HZ so it should be doable. Would you recommend I just keep the Q108MKII? Strange thing is Sumiko says the T5I is much faster and more musical. Reviews of the Q108MKII always say it is amazingly fast and very musical. I see many people are still using it.

I am stumped due to tiny size limit. I hope you guys have some suggestions or if it is not even worth bothering to replace something that size so long as it is working.

Thank you and I apologize this has been such an ordeal. I just want the best tiny sub I can get barring I already have it!
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post #847 of 864 Old 04-18-2016, 04:38 AM
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I just wanted to tell you guys Rel bassline blue cable is worth the money even thoughit does not look like much. Much better than Kimber's option. I took it home to try. It is still not a better sub woffer of course. If you have one of the beter Rel's it would be worth the money for sure. MD has it for $449 regular price is $650.
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post #848 of 864 Old 04-29-2016, 01:35 PM
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Question rel fault?

Hi,

I have a REL T9 Sub and the neutrik speakon socket and plug were 'frozen' together and this apparently got smashed in transit!

I removed the broken socket and I'm waiting for a replacement to arrive.

In the mean time I decided to use the RCA input instead; "BUT!" ~ every time I switch it on now the 3.15A 250V clear glass fuse blows!

Would this happen because the speakon socket has been removed, the socket has a trailing cable with a small white plug on the end which push fits onto the circuit board, obviously to remove the socket I had to unplug it from the circuit board first; i.e. that socket doesn't have anything plugged into it at the moment; would this cause the fuse to blow?

I don't know if it was working OK before the socket was removed because I have only just bought the Sub.

Many thanks in advance!
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post #849 of 864 Old 05-01-2016, 10:21 PM
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For that money you should absolutely get a replacement sub Imo! Too bad you don't have the speakon though because I found aftermarket speakon cables make a nice difference anyways. I am telling you I would seriously not accept that for what you paid but up to you. You do not want to just put on a new speakon they send you if that is what I think you mean.. Get a new sub bro! It could be all messed up you don't even know.

On that note we here were simply amazed to find we had to go up to the S3 to steadily best the old Q108MKII. I know others will disagree but you need to A/B them before you speak on this subject. It is nicer but twice the size and cost 2 grand USD.
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post #850 of 864 Old 05-13-2016, 04:49 AM
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I am sure this will not go over big here. i listened to all their latest offerings and was not impressed. when Mr. lord owned the company it was revolutionary. Made in China has but two issues. reliability and overall quality. I would not purchase a $4,500 Gibraltar made in china. that is absurd to me. Manufacturer is just saying we cut costs. this is why your Speakon came off. this is why many people have had a Gibraltar catastrophically fail in less than 6 months. this was traded to sumiko and then traded to some company now calling themselves Rel acoustics again. Still made in china and suffering from qc issues. Plus the earlier offerings easily trump the new ones in sound quality. they were simply higher quality units. i have 15+ year old Rel's still working fine. It is a shame everyone sold out to china but such is the global economy now. I would honestly stay away from these and look at Rythmik or Svs. unless you buy an older used one. The used one being 15+ years old is likely to last another 20 years whereas the new ones may fail in months. there have been reports of failures across the board with these. sure it now has piano lacquer finish. That looks like orange peel. All but the Gibraltar have a class D amp to boot. I am just very unimpressed with these. I base that on sound quality because I have not enjoyed the opportunity to have one of the Chinese ones fail. Feel free to defend them but I personally will not touch the new ones with a ten foot pole.It is a shame when this happens but it is the norm now. there are still quality US and UK companies. I would suggest to go that route while you still can. Before those move production to china as well. I would say if you like Rel the counterpart to the original company would now be MJ acoustics. no secret that they are guys that departed from Rel to basically build the same thing but still in the UK. For now,. the old Rel's and current Mj acoustics are very musical in a two channel system. They are not for HT however. For anyone in the market i suggest to pick up a used one cheap or go the Mj acoustics route which happen to be very expensive in the us but not in the UK I mainly base my feelings on the lack of sound quality in current models but that is just my opinion. Ymmv. . end of rant.
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post #851 of 864 Old 09-23-2016, 05:53 PM
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I'm VERY happy with my REL's!!!

Yes I said that in plural because I have three. One R-528 in the front left corner of the room so it can take advantage of the room, the other two are T-9's positioned on each side of the sofa. My sofa is about 12" from the back wall which happens to be all mirror. I know thats not a good thing so I positioned a large pillow resting on the back of the sofa leaning against the wall to prevent reflection. I plan to not live in this place for that much longer so room treatment is not an option at this point.

The R-528 is connected with both high level and LFE from my Integra 50.3 AVR. The T-9's are only connected to the LFE. This is because I prefer to listen to music in DIRECT mode (2 channel) as it is supposed to be heard. It took awhile to get the REL adjusted properly, but when I finally got it there, it sounds AMAZING! The R-528 is an outstanding subwoofer and blends beautifully with my Paradigm Signature S2's. The lesson I learned was not to turn the volume up too high on the REL. If you turn it up till you can hear it, chances are it's too high. The crossover can be calculated and adjusted to overlap the cutoff point of the main speakers. It took some time and now it sounds better than ever when I play music. I spent a lot of time playing Chevsky's test CD. Like I said, AMAZING! One thing I will add here is the adjustment of the REL is a constant project between adjusting the crossover and volume ever so slightly. Even to the point of adjusting the knobs between detents. The detents are nice to repeat setting but sometimes they can be a hindrance if you need something in between. Luckily, these allow for such fine tuning.

When I watch a movie and all three subs kick in, OMG! It feels like your in the middle of the scene and when an explosion goes off or any kind of deep base occurs, I can really feel it The REL really digs deep!

I believe in multiple subs, at least three. This way, the listener is immersed in the sound and the subs don't have to work so hard. It sounds and feels more natural. I'm also considering a smaller T-5 for the center channel.

The next addition to my HT will be a better amp as I am looking for a pre owned Anthem A5. I don't think my speakers are giving me all their glory with just the Integra. I bought one at a very good price and when the seller shipped it, FedEx managed to lose it. It's been lost for a month now. I got my money back but I'd rather have the amp so it's back to the classifieds.

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REL R-528 (FL & FR, RL & RR, 4 total) / REL T-9 (CC)
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Interconnects: Audioquest, King Cobra & Yukon
Speaker cable FL & FR: Transparent Audio / AC cords: Audioquest NRG-4 & WyWires Juice II
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post #852 of 864 Old 12-07-2016, 01:36 AM
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I have a REL S2 sub, and I love it!

HT: Anthem MRX 520 | Oppo UDP-203 | Bowers & Wilkins (683 S2 + HTM62 S1 + 684 S2) | REL S2 Subwoofer | Apple TV 4th 64Gb |
PC Audio: Apple MacBook Pro | Steinberg UR22 USB Audio Interface | KRK Rokit 5 G3
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post #853 of 864 Old 02-03-2017, 12:00 PM
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Just bought a pair of Maggie 1.7's for 2 channel listening and debating buying a used REL T-9 (with Neutrik connector) for $600 or a REL R-328 for $775 (no Neutrik connector). Advice/opinions on which would be a better deal?

Update: Just pulled the trigger on the R-328 and have to wait for my Neutrik/speakON connector to arrive.

Hope I made the wise choice?

Last edited by PRO710HD; 02-03-2017 at 06:37 PM.
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post #854 of 864 Old 02-10-2017, 07:30 AM
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Seeking experience in big rooms with REL subs

Hello all,

I’ve been doing some upgrading and my subwoofer is suddenly the weak link. I have SF Venere S speakers, a Mcintosh C2600 pre-amp, MC302 amp, and a VPI Scout with 2M Black cartridge. Although I use the setup for movies, tv and 2-channel, I’m really only concerned with 2-channel stereo performance (hi-res music and vinyl). I live in a loft with 35 ft ceilings and the room where the equipment is located is fairly large. I currently have a REL T9, which was great in my previous, smaller place, but it isn’t cutting it now. Also, I’d prefer one sub versus multiple, due to the way things are arranged. Bottom line is that I’m looking for a sealed sub that can handle the space.

I’m currently looking at a REL S/5, REL G2, REL 212/SE and Revel B112. I’d love to hear from some folks with large rooms and high ceilings and whether any of the subs I’m considering worked or didn’t work … and any other suggestions for what DID work. I can probably demo one or some of these, which will help, but thought I’d reach out to this forum to get some advanced info.

Thanks!
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post #855 of 864 Old 02-11-2017, 07:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PRO710HD View Post
Just bought a pair of Maggie 1.7's for 2 channel listening and debating buying a used REL T-9 (with Neutrik connector) for $600 or a REL R-328 for $775 (no Neutrik connector). Advice/opinions on which would be a better deal?

Update: Just pulled the trigger on the R-328 and have to wait for my Neutrik/speakON connector to arrive.

Hope I made the wise choice?
You made a good choice as far as I am concerned.

Arcam Fmj A38,Arcam Fmj CD17, Arcam rDac kw,Vienna Acoustics Mozart Grand Se,Rel R-328,Cardas Golden Presence and Crosslink ic's,Kimber 4tc,VH Audio power cords,Shunyata Venom PS8 & Defender & HC power cord, Furutech wall outlets.
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post #856 of 864 Old 03-22-2017, 03:27 PM
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I am considering using a pair of REL Tzero (or the Totem Kin Mini Sub) for a condo appartment install where I have to minimize LF response so as not to bother the neighbors. If someone has a frequency response curve plot for the Rel Tzero (or Totem Kin Mini Sub) it would be appreciated if you could provide this. Does anyone here have any experience with this sub in an appartment setting?
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post #857 of 864 Old 04-08-2017, 02:49 AM
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I just purchased a REL Tzero as a sub to supplement my center channel speaker. I'm a little concerned about using the high level connection since my amp is a Class D amp (ATI AT527nc - uses Hypex Modules). The manual states that for a Class D, you should connect the black wire to the amp chassis. However, I've read that's mainly an issue with ICEpower based Class D amps and those based on the Hypex modules are different and it's okay to connect the black wire to the negative speaker output.

At this point I'm confused and don't want to cause any damage to my system. Am I supposed to connect the black wire to the negative speaker output or is it safer to connect the black wire to the amplifier's chassis ground?
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post #858 of 864 Old 04-08-2017, 09:42 PM
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Multiple subs, what do you think?

I feel almost like a REL collector. Just recently moved into a new home built in 1941 and plan to use the living room as my home theater. As far as REL''s, I have three R528's and two T-9's. My plan is to use the R528's fro FL, FR, RL & RR using high level for the fronts only and LFE for all four. Then, a T-9 will be used for the center channel (high level only). Basically my 5.1 system will be more like a 5.5 system giving each speaker its own sub. Having all areas of the room supported by subs couldn't be a bad thing, right?

Another idea I have is placing a granite slab under each subwoofer. If the R528 is roughly 15" square, I think a 20" square x 1" (roughly) thick granite slab would help the subwoofer produce a nice accurate punch as opposed to more of a muffed sound created by the area rug covering almost the whole floor.

Has anyone experimented with placing their sub on a dense slab and noticed any difference, good or bad?
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Paradigm (Signature S2- Front L&R): (CC-690- Center): (Studio 20- Surround L&R)
REL R-528 (FL & FR, RL & RR, 4 total) / REL T-9 (CC)
Anthem P5 & AVM 60 / Oppo BDP-103 - Blu Ray
Interconnects: Audioquest, King Cobra & Yukon
Speaker cable FL & FR: Transparent Audio / AC cords: Audioquest NRG-4 & WyWires Juice II

Last edited by 1Oldschool; 04-29-2017 at 01:50 PM.
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post #859 of 864 Old 05-12-2017, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akopperl View Post
I just purchased a REL Tzero as a sub to supplement my center channel speaker. I'm a little concerned about using the high level connection since my amp is a Class D amp (ATI AT527nc - uses Hypex Modules). The manual states that for a Class D, you should connect the black wire to the amp chassis. However, I've read that's mainly an issue with ICEpower based Class D amps and those based on the Hypex modules are different and it's okay to connect the black wire to the negative speaker output.

At this point I'm confused and don't want to cause any damage to my system. Am I supposed to connect the black wire to the negative speaker output or is it safer to connect the black wire to the amplifier's chassis ground?
Akopperl,

It would be best to connect the BLACK wire of the high level cable to the chassis ground thumb screw on the ATI amplifier. This means that it will be best to run the REL high level cable all the way back to the ATI and not connect it at the speaker terminals as the manual suggests.
Twist the RED and YELLOW wires together and connect them to the Positive amp terminal of the
channel that is driving the center channel.
Start with the Level and Crossover controls at 15 clicks up from minimum.
Clicks = the detents you can feel as you exercise the pots on the Tzero.
First step is to determine if the Tzero is in phase with your center channel by switching the phase control back an forth and listening when low frequencies sound fuller and in- time with the center channel.
Setting the level and crossover is pretty forgiving on the center channel, it should be easy to blend with the rest if the system.

The reason I suggest bringing the BLACK wire connection all the way back to the ATI is because it has the chassis ground thumb screw and this is most likely the best place to make this connection without causing you headaches. Some ClassD designs elevate the return (-) speaker terminal 10 or 10s of volts and connecting the black wire to this will cause problems with both the REL and amplifier.

Hope this helps,

Justin
Chief Engineer
REL Acoustics
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post #860 of 864 Old 07-26-2017, 09:46 AM
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It is with a sad heart that I make this post.
Richard E. Lord, founder of REL Acoustics passed away last weekend.
I never worked with Mr. Lord, but I enjoy working with his ideas and design concepts everyday.

Please go to rel.net to read the official REL press release on Richard E. Lord.


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REL Acoustics
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post #861 of 864 Old 08-02-2017, 04:59 AM
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Just thought I'd post up my impressions after upgrading my Rel S5 to a Rel 212se.

When I bought my S5 I was replacing the Focal SW700 that I'd had for years. I figured it was worth spending a bit extra and getting a sub that would work well even when I upgrade my speakers etc. I got the S5 and was pretty stoked with it, to say the least. One of my mates at the time had an SVS 13 ultra and he was equally as impressed with my S5. I was living in a rental with some friends at the time, and figured I'd get a second S5 when I bought my own house...because why not?!

Unfortunately, the house I ended up buying didn't have a dedicated theatre room...or at least not one big enough for my setup, so my theatre gear ended up in the main living area. I've ended up having to do a fair bit of electrical and wiring work to get this room neat and to a point I'm happy with, but unfortunately there isn't enough room to put two S5's in ideal locations. Given the size and openness of the room, the S5 did get a little lost too, and didn't have the same impact as it did in my previous room.

After this I stumbled upon the 212se and was intrigued, as it seemed like it would be a descent single location sub that could pack a bit more punch than the S5 in my room. Well, it got delivered last weekend...and by god, does it pack a punch! The bass impact and feel of this thing surprised me massively, especially considering the size and openness of the room. The feeling reminded me of big car stereos I had in years gone by...it's seriously impressive! It's also still very tight and accurate and has completely lifted the rest of my system up a notch.

Managed to pick up a Longbow wireless unit with the sub and am very impressed with that too, as it allows me to have a really neat and tidy setup and get my sub in the right spot, without losing any sound quality.

Still need to finish running it in, but I'm extremely happy so far
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post #862 of 864 Old 09-22-2017, 12:17 PM
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In the recent past I have written some papers for the REL website detailing aspects of setting up REL Subs. I'm going to start posting these papers here periodically for reference.

Best regards- Justin

REL Two channel setup guide:

REL products are not traditional subwoofers, but true Sub-Bass Systems. A REL is designed to augment the performance of FULL RANGE speaker systems in order to provide, in certain cases, linear response below 15Hz. A REL will take advantage of the physical room acoustics to provide deep pressurization as no traditional subwoofer can. For best results, the REL should be placed in one of the corners behind the speakers. Remember, we are dealing with True LOW bass pressurization with RELs. Low bass pressurization below 40Hz is best derived from corner placement, where the most linear and efficient low bass can be produced because the subwoofer is able to take advantage of the tangential (corner to corner) axis which is typically the longest distance in a room.

In most cases, when connecting two channel systems, you will be using the REL high level connection with the supplied cable. Please see articles covering making high level connections for details.

To begin the set-up process, choose a piece of music that has a repetitive bass line that is very low in frequency. We suggest track 4 from the soundtrack to Sneakers (Columbia CK 53146). This has a repetitive bass drum throughout that gives you plenty of time to move the woofer around. This track is perfect for the set-up process and should be played at the highest reasonable level expected for system playback.

Working with a partner, one in the listening position and one at the REL manipulating position and controls is the most effective an efficient way to set up. If working alone, corner fine tuning and orientation can be effectively carried out from the location of the REL. Try to ignore all other music in the track, listen to the bass drum and its effect on the listening room.

The basic steps to setup are phase orientation, corner fine tuning, orientation, and final settings.

Phase Orientation
With the REL in the corner the first step is to adjust for phase. Keep in mind that the right phase is whichever position (0 or 180) is the loudest for fullest. While playing music with true low bass, adjust the crossover to a point where the REL and the speaker are sure to share frequencies. This should be at 20 clicks from the minimum setting (12 o’clock) on the Crossover control. At this point turn the High/ Low Level control up so that both the REL and speaker are roughly equal in volume. This should be 15 to 18 clicks from minimum (10 to 11 o’clock) on the High/ Low Level pot. Now move the phase switch from 0 to 180 positions and listen for whichever position is loudest or fullest. That is, when the position is working in harmony with your main speakers, reinforcing bass not cancelling it. Sometimes is helps to concentrate on the leading impulse of the bass note, noticing if it is timed with the speaker. If the impulse lags the speaker’s response or if it sounds like the impulse is late, then the REL is out of phase. It will be best to determine correct phase when in the listening position, so this process will require walking back and forth to the REL if determining phase orientation alone.

Corner Fine Tuning
The next step is to determine precisely how far from the corner the sub should be placed to achieve the most efficient output, as well as the lowest frequency extension. With the REL fully into the corner, and pointed to the opposite corner, continuing to play the music, slowly pull the REL from the corner on the diagonal, line to opposite corner, equidistant from both side and rear wall. At a certain point (sometimes a matter of only a few inches, in rare cases a foot or more) the REL will audibly play louder, go lower in frequency extension, and, if truly pressurizes the room, the air around the REL will seem to be energized. Stop right there! This is the correct position from the corner for the REL.

Orientation
Once the position from the corner has been established, the orientation of the woofer must be determined by rotating the REL from an imagined centre point at the rear of the REL. As the REL is rotated from one side to the other, listen for the greatest level of output. In effect, the REL should be left in the position where it is playing the loudest and lowest. If the REL is on carpet, at this point physically push the REL down into to lock it in place and provide the greatest coupling to the floor.

Final Settings
Now move both the High/Low Level control and Crossover control to 10 o’clock settings (15 clicks from minimum). In most cases this is just about where the settings will end up. The Level control should be at a setting where you can hear the REL even with the main speakers playing. This is Generally 15 clicks +/- 3 clicks. The Crossover control should be set to where the sub bass is not overpowering or sloppy. It should be in time with the impulses of the main speakers so you can hear the depth and dynamics of the low frequencies. Again, this setting is generally 15 clicks +/- 3 clicks.
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post #863 of 864 Old 10-06-2017, 04:03 PM
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I have seen posts about multiple subs used in Stereo systems lately. Here is a paper we wrote about setting up dual RELs.



Using two RELs also known as Stereo Sub- Bass, is advised for the fastest, clearest, deep bass- not for more output. Conventional wisdom has it that stereo subs results in between +3to +6 dB additional output depending upon positioning. In and itself, this is of only passing interest in most instances since even a single REL is capable of profound output. What then, is the point to adding a second REL?

In a word, clarity. Clarity that permits “seeing” back into the farthest reaches of the sound stage. Clarity that illuminates all dimensions of the musicians and the space that they inhabit equally and enhances the natural reality of a great full range system, as only RELs can.

Set-Up
When setting up Stereo RELs, it is possible to place both units in the front corners of the room, carefully toed-in and placed per normal REL guidance.
Set each side up independently. Disconnect the sub that is not being set-up so your complete focus can be given over to the sub that you are working with. Carefully follow the guidance provided below for phase orientation, corner fine tuning, orientation, and final settings.

To begin the set-up process, choose a piece of music that has a repetitive bass line that is very low in frequency. We suggest track 4 from the soundtrack to Sneakers (Columbia CK 53146). This has a repetitive bass drum throughout that gives you plenty of time to move the woofer around. This track is perfect for the set-up process and should be played at the highest reasonable level expected for system playback.

Working with a partner, one in the listening position and one at the REL manipulating position and controls is the most effective an efficient way to set up. If working alone, corner fine tuning and orientation can be effectively carried out from the location of the REL. Try to ignore all other music in the track, listen to the bass drum and its effect on the listening room.

Phase Orientation
With the REL in the corner the first step is to adjust for phase. Keep in mind that the right phase is whichever position (0 or 180) is the loudest for fullest. While playing music with true low bass, adjust the crossover to a point where the REL and the speaker are sure to share frequencies. This should be at 20 clicks from the minimum setting (12 o’clock) on the Crossover control. At this point turn the High/ Low Level control up so that both the REL and speaker are roughly equal in volume. This should be 15 to 18 clicks from minimum (10 to 11 o’clock) on the High/ Low Level pot. Now move the phase switch from 0 to 180 positions and listen for whichever position is loudest or fullest. That is, when the position is working in harmony with your main speakers, reinforcing bass not cancelling it. Sometimes is helps to concentrate on the leading impulse of the bass note, noticing if it is timed with the speaker. If the impulse lags the speaker’s response or if it sounds like the impulse is late, then the REL is out of phase. It will be best to determine correct phase when in the listening position, so this process will require walking back and forth to the REL if determining phase orientation alone.

Corner Fine Tuning
The next step is to determine precisely how far from the corner the sub should be placed to achieve the most efficient output, as well as the lowest frequency extension. With the REL fully into the corner, and pointed to the opposite corner, continuing to play the music, slowly pull the REL from the corner on the diagonal, line to opposite corner, equidistant from both side and rear wall. At a certain point (sometimes a matter of only a few inches, in rare cases a foot or more) the REL will audibly play louder, go lower in frequency extension, and, if truly pressurizes the room, the air around the REL will seem to be energized. Stop right there! This is the correct position from the corner for the REL.

Orientation
Once the position from the corner has been established, the orientation of the woofer must be determined by rotating the REL from an imagined centre point at the rear of the REL. As the REL is rotated from one side to the other, listen for the greatest level of output. In effect, the REL should be left in the position where it is playing the loudest and lowest. If the REL is on carpet, at this point physically push the REL down into to lock it in place and provide the greatest coupling to the floor.

Final Settings
Now move both the High/Low Level control and Crossover control to 10 o’clock settings (15 clicks from minimum). In most cases this is just about where the settings will end up. The Level control should be at a setting where you can hear the REL even with the main speakers playing. This is Generally 15 clicks +/- 3 clicks. The Crossover control should be set to where the sub bass is not overpowering or sloppy. It should be in time with the impulses of the main speakers so you can hear the depth and dynamics of the low frequencies. Again, this setting is generally 15 clicks +/- 3 clicks.

Once each sub has been carefully tuned, attach the cables for both subs. At this point, the output achieved will be too loud and will require re-setting the level control of each REL lower. This is normal as the combined output is likely to be at least 3 dB louder with both subs now being used. Turn the High/Low Level control down on each sub until perfect balance is achieved, typically 1 or 2 clicks. While turning the left or right sub down, it is helpful to turn slightly and even lean slightly toward the side that is being adjusted to better achieve focus and a balanced sound level. Obviously while working alone, this will require trips between each REL and the listening position.
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post #864 of 864 Old 10-15-2017, 09:11 PM
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Anyone have the No.25 yet?
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