Official REL Subwoofer thread... - Page 3 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #61 of 796 Old 01-13-2009, 02:54 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Thebarnman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Scottsdale AZ
Posts: 3,174
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked: 13
I was finally able to order the "High Level Digital Cable" a week ago today. I just received word that it's just now being shipped from CA and I should receive it in the next couple days. Monday at the latest. When I do receive it, I'll be sure to share images of this special cable that's only being made on a case by case basis.

Then I can find out if it will have a difference in performance. A reminder of when I had the original cable hooked up to it, something did seem to be wrong.

Also, I'm going to post a "Warning" for REL owners who use Class "D" amps/receivers in this thread and make one of it's own thread. I wanted to make it a sticky, however the mods stated they are trying to keep the amount of stickys to a minimum and this notice would only effect a small percentage in this group.

It's a interesting situation and kind of rare. In my years of this hobby, I've never ran across anything like it.

Movies must be OAR, sports and movies must also have 5.1 audio, No EE or NO SALE!
Thebarnman is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #62 of 796 Old 01-13-2009, 02:55 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Thebarnman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Scottsdale AZ
Posts: 3,174
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked: 13
of damage due to improper ground.

The following situation can cause damage to your audio equipment. If you use regular "High Level" cables connected to any of the main outputs on a Class "D" amp or receiver, there is risk of damage due to improper grounding. However there is no risk of damage if your using the RCA type connection while hooked up to the low level connection.

If your using a newer REL sub bass system that's designed for both music (high level input) AND movie sound (.1 LFE Channel low level RCA type connection) while connected to both connections at the same time, AND your using a class "D" amp or receiver, you risk damage to your audio equipment with only the High Level Input connection.

Again, the issue being proper grounding. Hooking the black wire of the "High Level" cable to a phono ground will not help. Hooking up a RCA type connection to the black wire and attaching it to any of the unused RCA connections on the back of your amp/receiver will also not help.

The way to properly hook up your REL to a class "D" amp/receiver (while using the high level connection) is to use a "High Level Digital Cable" available through your local REL dealer. This is a "new" situation and the "High Level Digital Cables" are only being manufactured on a case by case basis. The word "Digital" is not to be confused with the type of signal being sent through it, it only describes the type of cable to be manufactured. Many local REL dealers may not be aware of this and will have to contact Sumiko for further information.

Movies must be OAR, sports and movies must also have 5.1 audio, No EE or NO SALE!
Thebarnman is offline  
post #63 of 796 Old 01-19-2009, 11:27 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Thebarnman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Scottsdale AZ
Posts: 3,174
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked: 13
My "High Level Digital Cable" arrived last Thursday. Unfortunately the "Speak-on" connection was of the newer type, not of the older type I need for my older REL Stadium II.

Not a problem as it was easily sent back to Sumiko by one of my local REL dealers for a replacement.

So as part of this update, it's also important to provide the model of the REL sub bass system you have as the connections are different on the newer models.

Once I get the correct replacement, I will provide images so everyone can see what the "Digital High Level Cable" looks like.

To describe by words, it does not look any different then regular high level cable connections except for the fact that it does have a RCA type connection on the black wire. Again, REL says there's more to it than that, as there's more that helps provide a proper ground.

Movies must be OAR, sports and movies must also have 5.1 audio, No EE or NO SALE!
Thebarnman is offline  
post #64 of 796 Old 02-06-2009, 08:40 AM
AVS Special Member
 
mnilan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Central NY
Posts: 2,111
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Folks:
I have both an audio system and a home theater system. For my audio system,
it looks like I just missed a REL Stadium III on Audiogon for a VERY reasonable price. I would like to interact with a REL dealer in the NorthEast (I am in Central New York) who is recommended by those of you who have successfully integrated a REL into your system. If you could PM me with a dealer that you recommend, I would appreciate it. Thanks in advance.

mnilan
mnilan is offline  
post #65 of 796 Old 02-08-2009, 10:47 AM
AVS Special Member
 
mnilan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Central NY
Posts: 2,111
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I got an ACI Titan instead of a REL, so never mind the referrals. Thanks anyway...

mnilan
mnilan is offline  
post #66 of 796 Old 02-21-2009, 02:55 AM
Newbie
 
ragwo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Norway
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Many thanks to Thebarnman for your research! You've just saved me and my old Studio I from a painful expreience.
ragwo is offline  
post #67 of 796 Old 02-25-2009, 02:18 PM
AVS Special Member
 
720p's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,388
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Forgive my ignorance but how do I know what class my receiver is? It is a yamaha rx-v4600 and I'm using both high & low level connections to my b3 with the old wire. No smoke yet.
720p is offline  
post #68 of 796 Old 03-03-2009, 06:49 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
kwkshift's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Phx, Az
Posts: 801
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by 720p View Post

Forgive my ignorance but how do I know what class my receiver is? It is a yamaha rx-v4600 and I'm using both high & low level connections to my b3 with the old wire. No smoke yet.

I'd just contact Yamaha. I looked through their information page on that unit and I couldn't find anything stating if it was a class-D or not. Or, you could go over to the Yamaha receiver thread and see what you can dig up there.
kwkshift is offline  
post #69 of 796 Old 03-03-2009, 04:50 PM
Newbie
 
Crusinhigh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
i just bought a REL R305 subwoofer. i have given the unit about 65 hours of break in at this point. i currently have it hooked up to my NAD t785 receiver using an AudioQuest Sub3 rca subwoofer cable. i am happy with this connection but am wondering if it would be beneficial to use the speakon connector versus the rca connection that is currently equipped. if i was to use the speakon connection how would i connect it to my amp?
Crusinhigh is offline  
post #70 of 796 Old 03-03-2009, 06:58 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
kwkshift's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Phx, Az
Posts: 801
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crusinhigh View Post

i just bought a REL R305 subwoofer. i have given the unit about 65 hours of break in at this point. i currently have it hooked up to my NAD t785 receiver using an AudioQuest Sub3 rca subwoofer cable. i am happy with this connection but am wondering if it would be beneficial to use the speakon connector versus the rca connection that is currently equipped. if i was to use the speakon connection how would i connect it to my amp?

You can actually have it connected both ways at the same time. Basically, you would leave the .1 LFE connection the way it is and then the SpeakOn connection would be made to your front mains at either the speakers themselves, or on the back of the receiver at the binding posts. Then, ensure your mains are set to "Large/ Full Range", etc. and follow the setup instructions that came with the REL. Take your time and go step-by-step as per the manual. It can take a bit of time to get it right, but once it's set up, you don't have to touch anything else. At this point, the sub will receive the .1 LFE signal from your movies and when you switch over to music, it will rely on the Speakon connection to support your mains.

Have fun!
kwkshift is offline  
post #71 of 796 Old 04-06-2009, 02:14 PM
Senior Member
 
Dave Carr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 267
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Great to see a REL forum!!
Dave Carr is offline  
post #72 of 796 Old 04-06-2009, 06:44 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
kwkshift's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Phx, Az
Posts: 801
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Carr View Post

Great to see a REL forum!!


Yeah! Just trying to help out and bring as much info as possible to others on such a great product family!
kwkshift is offline  
post #73 of 796 Old 04-09-2009, 12:39 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Thebarnman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Scottsdale AZ
Posts: 3,174
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked: 13
I now have an image of the wire you will need if you use a REL's "High Level" input with a Class D Amp/Receiver...


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...hlight=warning

Movies must be OAR, sports and movies must also have 5.1 audio, No EE or NO SALE!
Thebarnman is offline  
post #74 of 796 Old 04-09-2009, 12:42 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Thebarnman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Scottsdale AZ
Posts: 3,174
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by ragwo View Post

Many thanks to Thebarnman for your research! You've just saved me and my old Studio I from a painful experience.

I'm glad I could be of help! It took a little while to get the information, however I knew if I could type it all down, it would be of benefit to others.

Movies must be OAR, sports and movies must also have 5.1 audio, No EE or NO SALE!
Thebarnman is offline  
post #75 of 796 Old 04-14-2009, 09:50 AM
Senior Member
 
PaulF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Texas
Posts: 301
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Barnman, your situation makes an interesting read. I am in the process of selecting equipment for a new HT system and am considering the B1 (or at least was, my interest is waning).

I plan to use class D amplification and have asked my local dealers about this connectivity issue but none know how to respond. So I find it interesting that I have now found this thread.

Actually John Dawson from Arcam provided a good answer to the issue in your other thread, most class D amplifiers are configured with what's known as a full bridge output. This type of output is balanced. However this is not unique to class D amps, some class A/B amps like certain Bryston models also use a balanced output.

In a more typical amp, the negative terminal is grounded and the positive terminal swings +/- around ground. In a balanced output the two terminals alternate +/- (i.e. both terminals alternate in polarity) and neither is grounded. You will typically find a small lightning symbol next to the terminals on amps that have this type of output configuration. I believe the SC-07 uses ICE amps and is in the same boat.

At line level using .1 LFE (sub) output from the preamp etc. there is no issue, but REL makes a lot of noise about using the high (speaker) level inputs to capture the sonic signature of the power amps and when connecting to the class D amp a proper connection must be made. There would be no difference for passive spe

By reviewing the online manual of the B1 it appears that in an unbalanced output the yellow and red wires are being used to pick up the positive (hot) terminals of the left and right speaker channels, the black can then be connected to either negative speaker terminal as they share a common ground. Unless of course you use mono blocks which have no common ground, so this is then picked up at the preamp. This configuration allows you to deliver signal information from both stereo channels to one sub.

Using the B1 with a balanced output configuration like most class D amps, it appears the yellow and red wires are used to input the balanced output (positive and negative) from a single amplifier channel. So from what I can tell, and is somewhat mentioned in the REL manual, you must use two subs in a stereo pair if feeding them with a balanced high level signal.

I am not sure if the input options on the B1 match exactly with your stadium II but am curious as to what the yellow and red wires connect to in your system? Your new cable looks fairly ordinary other than having an RCA terminated black wire to pick up a ground from your preamp. However, I have no idea what causes the lump at the end of the XLR connector (perhaps that's the unique part) but I can't see why Sumiko wants $150 for that cable.
PaulF is offline  
post #76 of 796 Old 04-26-2009, 08:25 AM
 
CETA1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 499
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Folks,

Is anyone using this REL spec cable from Signal Cable?

http://signalcable.com/relspeakon.html

I want to try this cable because it has spades for connection to the Amp verses the bare wire from the stock cable. I just prefer spades verses bare wire for hook-up.

I almost was ready to give up on my REL B2. I am not sure what I was thinking. I have always felt REL was one of the best for Stereo but I felt I wasn't getting enough for HT.

I went to audition another brand of sub last Friday and also listened to REL B1 and the B1 sounded fantastic for both HT and Stereo.

This tells me I need to continue to work on set-up in my own house and I did play around with placement yesterday and got some improvement.

I watched "The Wrestler" last night with a lot of 80's rock in the soundtrack and it sounded so damn good and I was reminded why I picked REL to begin with. Stereo has always been excellent.

So instead of putting my REL B2 up on Audiogon and going a different direction, I ordered a second REL B2 .

Set-up is so critical with these subs and it is probably my biggest weakness in regards to HT set-up. I need to really focus and be patient as I think these subs are worth it when dialed-in.

I can't wait to try dual B2's. My second won't be here for a couple of weeks.

If anyone has tried the Signal Cable, please let me know. Now that I will have two sub's to connect to my amp, I would like the spade connections. Came accross this cable by accident yesterday on Audiogon.

Thanks,

Rick
CETA1 is offline  
post #77 of 796 Old 04-26-2009, 10:40 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
kwkshift's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Phx, Az
Posts: 801
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by CETA1 View Post

Folks,

Is anyone using this REL spec cable from Signal Cable?

http://signalcable.com/relspeakon.html

I want to try this cable because it has spades for connection to the Amp verses the bare wire from the stock cable. I just prefer spades verses bare wire for hook-up.

You could also just put spades on the end of your existing Neutrik nearly for free and save yourself $180 for the 2 cables, plus shipping time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CETA1 View Post

Set-up is so critical with these subs and it is probably my biggest weakness in regards to HT set-up. I need to really focus and be patient as I think these subs are worth it when dialed-in.

That's true. I even went through my own setup (B1), a few times over the course about a month to make sure it was just right. It's definately worth the extra work and patience.
kwkshift is offline  
post #78 of 796 Old 04-26-2009, 11:26 AM
 
CETA1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 499
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by kwkshift View Post

You could also just put spades on the end of your existing Neutrik nearly for free and save yourself $180 for the 2 cables, plus shipping time.

Understood but the cable itself seems to be a little weak. The "number" of strands of wire seem to be on the thin side. This was my first thought a year ago and had nothing to do with the spades.

It just doesn't seem to match the quality of the sub. $180 is a lot of money I guess but in comparison to the $5k of the two subs MSRP or so I guess it's all relative.

Maybe I will give one a try and see how it is before buying the second.

I guess it's cheaper than this one and I have a few Synergistic Cables in my arsenal.

http://thecableco.com/product.php?id=5141

or at a bargain price http://thecableco.com/product.php?id=1254

Rick
CETA1 is offline  
post #79 of 796 Old 04-26-2009, 11:44 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
kwkshift's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Phx, Az
Posts: 801
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Those cables aren't carrying any real current, just a tiny little signal for referencing purposes. With a manufacturer like REL that makes products that are so well engineered and over-built, I doubt that they would cut that one little corner in the cable selection. The other cable definately looks fancier, but functionally, I'm sure it will accomplish nothing.

Keep in mind that the phone line to your house is only 24 gauge wire and in many instances is several miles long, yet it can handle a signal dozens of times larger than what a REL subwoofer does through its Speakon. Ring-down voltage (what makes your land line analog phone ring), is -90v DC. It'll wake you up if you get hit by it, especially if you have sweaty hands! And that signal can be generated many, many miles away in the C.O. by a ring generator. Here, we're talking about 30' max, with a much larger gauge cable and a signal that is a fraction of the size with an input impedance of 100k ohms.

I just saw those insane Speakeons you posted. Good grief. I'm in the wrong business. I'm going to start making identical copies of those and selling them dirt-cheap for a low, low price of $499!
kwkshift is offline  
post #80 of 796 Old 04-27-2009, 07:29 PM
Senior Member
 
Dave Carr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 267
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by kwkshift View Post

Those cables aren't carrying any real current, just a tiny little signal for referencing purposes. With a manufacturer like REL that makes products that are so well engineered and over-built, I doubt that they would cut that one little corner in the cable selection. The other cable definately looks fancier, but functionally, I'm sure it will accomplish nothing.

Keep in mind that the phone line to your house is only 24 gauge wire and in many instances is several miles long, yet it can handle a signal dozens of times larger than what a REL subwoofer does through its Speakon. Ring-down voltage (what makes your land line analog phone ring), is -90v DC. It'll wake you up if you get hit by it, especially if you have sweaty hands! And that signal can be generated many, many miles away in the C.O. by a ring generator. Here, we're talking about 30' max, with a much larger gauge cable and a signal that is a fraction of the size with an input impedance of 100k ohms.

I just saw those insane Speakeons you posted. Good grief. I'm in the wrong business. I'm going to start making identical copies of those and selling them dirt-cheap for a low, low price of $499!

Unfortunately (or maybe fortunately...), upgraded REL cables can make a discernable difference. Its mild but there. Its almost just about timbral matching. Have a REL cable built by the same company that provided the main system cables is that last piece of the puzzel. That being said, like power cords, its like the sprinkles on the icing in your cake.
Dave Carr is offline  
post #81 of 796 Old 04-27-2009, 11:13 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
kwkshift's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Phx, Az
Posts: 801
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 11
HaHa! I actually scrape the icing off my cake. LOL!
kwkshift is offline  
post #82 of 796 Old 04-28-2009, 06:46 PM
Senior Member
 
Dave Carr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 267
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I actually like the sprinkles! But not the icing...
Dave Carr is offline  
post #83 of 796 Old 04-28-2009, 07:34 PM
 
CETA1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 499
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by kwkshift View Post

There were Britannias sprinkled around like Easter eggs. Heck, in the main training room they had 1 of each model. A B1 for the LFE and tied to the mains, a B3 tied to the center channel and a B2 tied to the rears! Now that makes for one exciting movie experience.

Did you get a chance to demo the B1 at your dealers place?

Pulling your old post back up. Boy, like I had mentioned earlier, I ordered a second B2 to match my existing B2 a few days ago.

I have also been thinking about that B1 demo from a few days ago. I went back today, listened again, and low and behold, I canceled my second B2 order and changed my order to the B1.

After discussions with the sales team at the store, we are going for the B1 for LFE front left/right and I am going to try my current B2 to enhance the rears for HT.

I would have thought that it would have been better to go with the B2 for use with Center but they are suggesting the B2 for rears. Mmmmm. One in opposing corners front/back.

They said if I watch a lot of concert dvd's, than perhaps the B2 would be a better fit for the Center. I do watch and love blu-ray concerts so we will see.

Regardless, I will now have a B1 and B2. Need to stop going to the store otherwise I may end up with a B3 as well

This should be exciting over my current single B2.

Rick
CETA1 is offline  
post #84 of 796 Old 04-29-2009, 12:10 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
kwkshift's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Phx, Az
Posts: 801
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 11
That's funny. I was at a somewhat similar cross-roads before I purchased my B1. I knew I wanted a B Series and I was going to give the B3 a go. But then I thought "Well, I'm already this far along, may as well go for the B2". Then, I started thinking again and I thought that's like buying 89 octane gas. Either you're in or you're out. So, I went for the B1 and I haven't looked back.
kwkshift is offline  
post #85 of 796 Old 04-29-2009, 06:24 AM
Member
 
lightning69's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 28
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Hi...I'm looking for a new sub to replace my 12"B&W which is not working anymore. A friend introduce me to the REL T1 which i think is a very interesting sub and has got a lot of good reviews to back it up.

I will be using the sub in my living room which is very big....24ftx22ft with ceiling height of about 11ft. The living room is actually 24x14 but it includes a dining area and a staircase to the second floor so that adds up to the total space.

I'm primarily using the sub for HT and about 30% music. From what I understand, the T1 use an active 10" driver and a passive 10" driver too. What is the meaning of passive here? Is it just an empty piece of driver that is moved by the active driver or its a separate driver power by the AV receiver that connected to the high level input?

What i'm looking for is a sub good for both music and HT use. I know the T1 is great for music but is it good for HT and can it sound big without too boomy or distortion?
lightning69 is offline  
post #86 of 796 Old 04-29-2009, 03:22 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
kwkshift's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Phx, Az
Posts: 801
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 11
A passive radiator is basically a speaker cone with no motor behind it that is specially weighted for tuning of the subwoofer itself. They allow for a subwoofer to be compact, yet have much more output than if they didn't have the PR at all. Generally, when a subwoofer cabinet is reduced in size, so is it's efficiency. A PR is one way around that.

The High-Level connection is for something totally different. You can read through the manual first to become more familiar with the controls, connections and how they are set up:

http://www.sumikoaudio.net/rel/manua...ies-Manual.pdf
kwkshift is offline  
post #87 of 796 Old 04-30-2009, 01:08 AM
Member
 
lightning69's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 28
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
thanks..i have read the manual.

For HT use, can the T1 produce deep bass at a decent volume to provide the necessary impact when watching movies. From all the reviews I read about the T1, I am very sure this is a great sub for music. However I am looking for a sub that provides good quality lows for both music and HT, but I also heard some people saying that the T1 is not suitable for HT use because it doesn't move very much air to really feel much impact. I know different people have different requirements as to how powerful a sub is. Some subs can really shake the house upside down, but i don't really need those. What I want is good quality bass that is powerful enough to really feel the impact of the movie without feeling underpower.

So my concern now is that is the T1 be powerful enough for HT use?
lightning69 is offline  
post #88 of 796 Old 04-30-2009, 09:39 AM
Senior Member
 
thrand1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Suburbia, Columbus, OH
Posts: 445
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 17
lightning69,

At around 3600cu.ft. just in the listening area, I think the T1 might start to run out of steam in your room at higher volume levels. My local dealer that has REL subwoofers had a demo room that was 2000cu.ft. (18ft x 12ft x 9ft ceilings). I watched parts of "Finding Nemo" and the first Matrix movie and thought the T1 started straining at a level that wasn't extremely loud.

A recent review in Home Theater Magazine paired the T1 with a Sonus Faber system. Here's a link to their measurements page. As you can see, the T1's output starts to decrease somewhere in the 35-40Hz range. In my experience, that 30-40Hz range can account for some of that "impact" and "rumble" you feel in explosions from movies, and you really need a subwoofer that can reproduce those frequencies for a good cinematic experience. I would be afraid the T1 might get overdriven before you get to an adequate playback level.

As for a recommendation, I can't really make one for you- maybe others in the thread can chime in and offer some advice. I just wanted to share my experience and information with you. I think the T1 would be spectacular for you on music, but I also think that it might come up a little short for you on the movie front. Good luck with your search.

-Tyler
thrand1 is offline  
post #89 of 796 Old 04-30-2009, 09:45 AM
Member
 
lightning69's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 28
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
thanks Tyler. That is why I'm a little worried about the T1 because of its small size and 10" woofer.
lightning69 is offline  
post #90 of 796 Old 04-30-2009, 02:31 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
kwkshift's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Phx, Az
Posts: 801
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 11
It's not so much the driver size as it is the overall design as a whole that makes the biggest difference. The $10k Studio III "only" has (2) 10" drivers, but it's a completely different design. The same goes for the rest of the models, except for the R505 and the B1 since they use 12" drivers. I've used a T1 in much larger rooms than yours with good results thanks to proper setup and having the seating area only about 12-14' from the T1, itself. Does it knock the house off the foundation? No. No compact subwoofer can crack the walls, the laws of physics and $$$'s won't allow it. But the T1 does a great job of underpinning the other speakers, is very well behaved and is quite compact.

One very nice feature about the REL's is that you can simply grow your system out by adding more units receiving their input signals through their Speakon connections. So, you could start off with a single T1 and then down the road, you could add another T-Series to your center channel speaker and then yet another T to your surround channels. Or, you could perhaps step into a B3 which is 2x the price of a T1, but they are awesome for both music and HT use. The B3 occupies the same amount of floor space as a T1 but is about 6 inches taller. Or, for the same money, you could have (2) T1's or for a couple hundred bucks more, you could do a T1 and (2) T3's. Or....etc, etc....
kwkshift is offline  
Reply Subwoofers, Bass, and Transducers

Tags
Rel , Subwoofers

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off