Having Trouble With My Infinity Subwoofer - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 21 Old 09-06-2008, 01:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Its the one that comes with the Infinity Tss-1100 system. The problem is that it keeps powering down after 15 minutes. Yes I know its supposed to do that if there isn't a signal being sent to it but one is. I have to keep on switching it on and off for it to power back on. All the cables are hooked up correctly. The LFE works fine for 15 minutes then it just shuts off.

Also I have an Onkyo SR705 if that would be of any assistance in helping me fix this matter. Any help would be appreciated.
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post #2 of 21 Old 09-06-2008, 02:47 PM
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What are the Onkyo settings for your speakers? Meaning, what did you set the crossovers to? What are the other settings on that screen? Also, at what dB level did you set the sub on the calibration screen?
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post #3 of 21 Old 09-06-2008, 05:14 PM
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I'd bet it's just a faulty subwoofer.

I have an Infinity subwoofer (the PS-10) model that I had been using for less than a year. Then all of a sudden it started making a popping noise when it would kick on or off while watching tv/movies or playing a game.

I had learned soon after that Inifinity subwoofers are known for issues like this or others at or around the 1 year mark if not sooner. So I'd just say your problem is something in the subwoofer that can't be fixed.

The issue could have to due with your settings on your Onkyo 705 (I have the same receiver) if you have the crossover frequency set to some extreme where it wouldn't ever kick on, but I doubt it.

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post #4 of 21 Old 09-06-2008, 11:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Crossover is set to 80 and decibel is set to -3. Been like that for over a year. This sucks balls cause I don't want to cough up the dough for a new sub.
Had the Infinity for over a year and a half now.

Edit: Actually now I just noticed the pos stops receiving a signal after like 5 mintues...
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post #5 of 21 Old 09-07-2008, 07:26 PM
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Try setting the sub gain on the receiver as high as possible and turning down the volume knob- it may not be getting a strong enough signal to make the auto-on circuitry happy.
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post #6 of 21 Old 09-14-2008, 02:48 PM - Thread Starter
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After paying close attention to it, it only goes off when I watch movies on my PS3. Sub will work fine for 15 minutes then cut off. Now when I have my cable on the 5.1 works perfectly. The sub stays on the whole time. Could the problem lie with my receiver or is it definitely the sub?

Also after about 10 minutes when I send a test tone to the sub its sounds very quiet. Seems as if the signal is fading because when I first sent a test tone to it when I first turned the sub on it was loud. I left the test tone on for 5 mintues then the sub just went into standby. What gives?
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post #7 of 21 Old 09-14-2008, 07:53 PM
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Two ideas:
1. For your PS3, are you letting it output 5.1? If the receiver isn't getting a 5.1 signal, it may be turning off the sub out.

2. Are you trying to overdrive the sub? It may be protective circuitry turning the sub off, which would explain both issues. Try the same test tone with the sub turned down more.

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Originally Posted by 357 View Post

After paying close attention to it, it only goes off when I watch movies on my PS3. Sub will work fine for 15 minutes then cut off. Now when I have my cable on the 5.1 works perfectly. The sub stays on the whole time. Could the problem lie with my receiver or is it definitely the sub?

Also after about 10 minutes when I send a test tone to the sub its sounds very quiet. Seems as if the signal is fading because when I first sent a test tone to it when I first turned the sub on it was loud. I left the test tone on for 5 mintues then the sub just went into standby. What gives?

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post #8 of 21 Old 09-14-2008, 08:59 PM - Thread Starter
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PS3 is 5.1 and no I'm not trying to overdrive the sub. The sub gets the LFE signal for 15 minutes then it just cuts off. Did the test tone and yet again it cut off. I think I'm got me a nice new brick.
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post #9 of 21 Old 09-15-2008, 05:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Well I couldn't stand this crap any longer so I went ahead and ordered another sub. I was gonna go with the Infinity PS 212 but I read somewhere that it was prone to the exact same problem that I'm having now. I went ahead and order the Outlaw LFM-1 Plus. It comes with a 30 day return policy so if I don't like it I can send it back. Also has 3 years warranty so that's another plus.
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post #10 of 21 Old 09-16-2008, 08:42 AM
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Good choice!

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post #11 of 21 Old 09-16-2008, 05:59 PM
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I know I am late to this thread but you need to be using a Y cable for that sub to work properly. I have the 750 version and I remember when I first got it reading about people with the Infinity TSS subs having them cut out because of a low signal and then using a Y cable for a fix. I have used one from day one and have never experienced a drop out. It is worth a try.

http://www.amazon.com/Monster-Cable-...1613053&sr=1-1

Good luck.

Before someone tells you not to buy monster cable. I just used that for an example. Buy whatever brand you want...


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post #12 of 21 Old 09-26-2008, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hurleyjj View Post

I'd bet it's just a faulty subwoofer.

I have an Infinity subwoofer (the PS-10) model that I had been using for less than a year. Then all of a sudden it started making a popping noise when it would kick on or off while watching tv/movies or playing a game.

I had learned soon after that Inifinity subwoofers are known for issues like this or others at or around the 1 year mark if not sooner. So I'd just say your problem is something in the subwoofer that can't be fixed.

The issue could have to due with your settings on your Onkyo 705 (I have the same receiver) if you have the crossover frequency set to some extreme where it wouldn't ever kick on, but I doubt it.

I have an Infinity PS-12 home theater subwoofer that started popping after a couple years. I noticed that the light on the back of the speaker kept going from green to red with the popping sound each time it switched. Having already replaced the center channel speaker when it started buzzing at my expense it was disheartening to think I had to now replace the subwoofer. I turned the switch off and let the subwoofer cool down then turned it back on. It took several minutes before it started acting up again. This made me think the problem might be heat related. I removed the screws holding the amp in place and pulled it out a couple inches. In less than a minute, the popping stopped! I left the amplifier sticking out of the cabinet so it'll stay cool and haven't had a problem since! The amplifier is contained within a plastic housing that's inserted and screwed into the cabinet. There's no way for the heat from the amplifier to escape this housing. I suggest if anyone else is having problems like this they either free the amp from it's housing and let it stick out like I have or perhaps unplug the speaker from the amp, pull the amp out, remove the amp's plastic housing, plug the speaker back in, then reinstall the amp without it's plastic housing. There should be enough air coming in thru the base reflex hole to keep it cool. I spent many hours researching this problem and found others with the problem but nobody had a solution other than getting a new subwoofer or sending theirs in for repair. It's amazing to me that this is obviously a known and continuing problem yet Infinite does nothing to resolve it. Tossing out the useless amplifier housing so the amp can cool seems like a no brainer. I hope this helps others and saves them time, money, and aggrevation!
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post #13 of 21 Old 03-10-2009, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BAMAVADER View Post

I know I am late to this thread but you need to be using a Y cable for that sub to work properly. I have the 750 version and I remember when I first got it reading about people with the Infinity TSS subs having them cut out because of a low signal and then using a Y cable for a fix. I have used one from day one and have never experienced a drop out. It is worth a try.



Good luck.

Before someone tells you not to buy monster cable. I just used that for an example. Buy whatever brand you want...


mmm.... i hava and isue with the ps-10 after 2 hours if great bass it hust start to come in and out.... es really anyoing.. i will buy that cable you mention, but does the cable goes conected to de amp or to the sub??? I REALLY REALLY HOPE THIS makes my problem go away
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post #14 of 21 Old 03-10-2009, 05:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digosa View Post

mmm.... i hava and isue with the ps-10 after 2 hours if great bass it hust start to come in and out.... es really anyoing.. i will buy that cable you mention, but does the cable goes conected to de amp or to the sub??? I REALLY REALLY HOPE THIS makes my problem go away

I have a PS12 that chirps everytime it gets signal the first time. Works great after that.
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post #15 of 21 Old 03-11-2009, 08:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ysay View Post

I have a PS12 that chirps everytime it gets signal the first time. Works great after that.

well.. last night i bought the "y" cable.. it wroked fine for 4 hours... but maybe because i was playing xbox 360 and the game didnt had that much bass.. i hope that solved because it is really anyoing sometimes k had to stop watching the movie and continue 15 minutes later... it was 2 hours sharp every time..
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post #16 of 21 Old 02-06-2010, 08:17 AM
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I'm having same exact issue. Is the y-cable the real fix?
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post #17 of 21 Old 02-08-2010, 06:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LinusPW View Post

I'm having same exact issue. Is the y-cable the real fix?

no... the bass is broken had to change it for polk audio... dont know what was wrong eith it.. but at infinity said i cause the bass to broke.. hehe... they really suck
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post #18 of 21 Old 09-06-2010, 03:14 AM
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Ok I have a ps12 love it had it for years but im getting the popping over heating issue, also a funky burnt smell. Is this just a heat issue ? any1 still got these ?
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post #19 of 21 Old 09-06-2010, 03:42 AM
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i just opend the amp since the post abouv mentioned and a small piece that looks like a capacitator fell off and the back of the board with electrical equipent was burned where the capacitator was.

is this easy to fix or do i need to buy a brand new sub ? how much should a shop charge for something like this ?


thanks for the help, if any.
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post #20 of 21 Old 09-06-2010, 06:56 AM
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The best I could figure out is its a relay associated with the auto-sensing feature. If you smell it you'll see its burnt. I found offical schematics online and it appears this relay was used for a good number of Infinity sub models. I was not successful in trying to located a replacement part... the only places I found quoted prices for a 1000... I just want one or two. Yes, its a known and a wide spread issue across several of Infinities sub models. I've thought about just shorting across the relay to have it ON all the time but so far I've not gotten around to finding my soldering iron and solder... it's really just not been a top priority for me. However I'm surprised no one else has already tried this and reported back.

"For deep bass, the listener is not really listening to the speaker, but rather, is listening to the room as it is being played by the speaker."
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post #21 of 21 Old 01-28-2014, 10:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monomer View Post

I've thought about just shorting across the relay to have it ON all the time but so far I've not gotten around to finding my soldering iron and solder... it's really just not been a top priority for me. However I'm surprised no one else has already tried this and reported back.

 

Well, I'm certainly reviving this thread from the dead.  I was just posting about this exact fix on another forum.  I'm having the problem with the autosensing circuit my PS-12.  And I tried the method that monomer posted about above.  I bypassed the K1 relay (P/N: 943-1C-48D) and it didn't work.  Somehow the signal still needs to travel through the autosensing circuit to be played.  That's the short story.  If you're interested in more details read below.

 

When I turn on the power of the amp, the red standby light comes on, but when I connect it to the receiver the light won't switch to green, instead I get a flickering greenish-red light and no output. Before it got to this state I was having problems where the sub would drop out, and with the dropouts the light would go from green to red. Just as a test, I ran a 3.5mm headphone to RCA cable from my cell phone and when I turn the volume up to near-max on my cell phone I can get the light to turn green and the sub operates normally. So I believe it's something to do with the input detection circuit and it's right on the verge of detection.

I downloaded the PS-12 service manual found the output relay, bypassed the relay, then figured it would play with perhaps some potential side effects. It didn't work, same issue as before, not working from the receiver but did work with the cellphone. As for the side effects, the only one I experienced was when turning off the amp I would get one small *thunk* in the powering off process. No real biggie, but definitely bypassed the soft turn-off.
 

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