The New SVS PC12-Plus - Page 9 - AVS Forum
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post #241 of 272 Old 01-24-2010, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by riverst View Post

I was looking to spend around $600, but I can extend that to $1000 if the latter will be a better buy. I watch 75%movies and 25% Music.
Thanks

IMHO, it would be hard to go wrong with the Pioneer VSX-1019AH-K ($500) or if you wanted to spend more the Pioneer Elite VSX-23TXH ($1,000) or the VSX-21TXH would give you great sound, generous features, and good power.
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post #242 of 272 Old 01-25-2010, 03:27 AM
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Originally Posted by EndersShadow View Post

From Accessories4less:

Onkyo TX-SR806 549 plus shipping
Onkyo Tx-SR706 429 plus shipping
Onkyo Tx-Sr607 339 plus shipping
Marantz sr6003 (699) or higher (but they are a little bit higher than your 600 budget)

Accessories4less is a certified reseller of both Onkyo and Marantz so you not only get a factory re-certified product, but a 1 year warranty on it. A brand new Onkyo only has a 2 year warranty so I think its a great trade off. The TX-SR806 would be my pick for you as its the highest priced one and is THX Ultra2 certified. It will hammer any speakers you have and has a very decent amount of connections.

Thanks I will check those out.
I was surfing the net and I found a Denon 2310 (open Box) for $610 and a 3310(open box) for $800 from 6.ave. Would you buy it and is 6.ave legit.

Thanks
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post #243 of 272 Old 01-25-2010, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riverst View Post

Thanks I will check those out.
I was surfing the net and I found a Denon 2310 (open Box) for $610 and a 3310(open box) for $800 from 6.ave. Would you buy it and is 6.ave legit.

Thanks

You and I have almost the exact same set up. The only exception is the center (I have the PC 2000) and sub...I haven't ordered the PC12 plus yet.

I have a Denon 1909 and it powers my DT speakers just fine and provides enough tuning capabilities. Of course the newer 1910 is out with a few more bells and whistles. I ended buying my AVR from ABT.com at 20% off retail (I asked them to price match a special running at 6ave.com). At the time I wasn't familiar with 6 ave so I went with ABT who I knew was an authorized dealer.

6ave.com is legit. They are a brick and mortar shop based on the East coast, and they do online sales as well. They are, I believed, an authorized dealer for all the products they sell...but I would double check the specific product you're buying. They typically run specials (check their weekly ad) which is why I like them. Every so often they'll offer 20% off all AVRs. I picked up my SM450's for $300 a pair shipped from them.

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post #244 of 272 Old 01-25-2010, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riverst View Post

Thanks I will check those out.
I was surfing the net and I found a Denon 2310 (open Box) for $610 and a 3310(open box) for $800 from 6.ave. Would you buy it and is 6.ave legit.

Thanks

When I was looking to buy Denon wasnt sold anywhere locally to audition, so I stuck with what I could hear, which was Onkyo, Marantz and Integra (higher end Onkyo, or so they say). Denon from what I see on this forum is a decent brand as well. I think any of those would be a good call, but I dont know enough bout the denon to recommend one way or the other, or give you the pro's and con's between it and any of the others I suggested.

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post #245 of 272 Old 01-26-2010, 04:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riverst View Post

Thanks I will check those out.
I was surfing the net and I found a Denon 2310 (open Box) for $610 and a 3310(open box) for $800 from 6.ave. Would you buy it and is 6.ave legit.

Thanks

I'm no expert on AVR's but thought I'd share my must have list when I shopped for one...ultimately landing on the Denon 1909. There were 3 things I was looking for:

1. HDMI 1.3 with repeating architecture...I might have my terminology mixed up, but the ability to run one HDMI cable from my AVR to my TV, not a HDMI cable and separate audio cable.

2. Sufficient watts per channel

3. Audyssey Calibration

I found that most AVR's with at least these features also had more than enough other features to serve my needs. From there I did some research on reliability and functionality with other devices ultimately landing on the Denon 1909. More watts would have been nice, but not necessary with my set up.

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post #246 of 272 Old 02-12-2010, 10:02 AM
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Anyone able to share their experience on the mid bass performance of the PC12 plus? I'm going to pull the trigger today either on an Epik Empire or PC12 plus. From what I gathered so far, users have stated that the PC12 plus blends in well with their mains but I'm having to reconcile that with a few users who stated the mid bass was very lacking. I was hoping to get more perspective.

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post #247 of 272 Old 02-12-2010, 03:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jahjd2000 View Post

Anyone able to share their experience on the mid bass performance of the PC12 plus? I'm going to pull the trigger today either on an Epik Empire or PC12 plus. From what I gathered so far, users have stated that the PC12 plus blends in well with their mains but I'm having to reconcile that with a few users who stated the mid bass was very lacking. I was hoping to get more perspective.

I'm using a 3.1 set up for HT and music. I have the Ascend Acoustics Sierra 1 and the PC 12 plus in a room that is 22' x 14' x 8' with one large opening, one smaller opening and a door to other rooms. For me there is nothing lacking with respect to the bass at all. No scientific measurements though, just my ears.
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post #248 of 272 Old 02-12-2010, 09:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jahjd2000 View Post

Anyone able to share their experience on the mid bass performance of the PC12 plus? I'm going to pull the trigger today either on an Epik Empire or PC12 plus. From what I gathered so far, users have stated that the PC12 plus blends in well with their mains but I'm having to reconcile that with a few users who stated the mid bass was very lacking. I was hoping to get more perspective.

I use my 2 PC12-Pluses with a Mythos system (which is deliberately designed without a midbass hump). I can vouch for the fact that the SVS subs fill in that portion of the frequency spectrum very well.

That said, the amount/quality of bass or midbass in your system will be heavily influenced by your room characteristics and specific speakers and setup choices; however, having good quality subs (like Epik or SVS) is a great base to build on.
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post #249 of 272 Old 02-12-2010, 09:34 PM
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Oh great, now you guys chime in after I purchased the Epik

Thanks for responding though. I ended up going route B. I must say though, I feel destined to someday get a SVS. Maybe for another room.

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post #250 of 272 Old 02-18-2010, 05:40 AM
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Any one use the port plugs yet to tune down to 16hz. (currently i have no plugs installed and it sounds great) just wondering if its worth to plug one of the ports.
Also is it worth to buy the AS-EQ1 with one sub?
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post #251 of 272 Old 02-18-2010, 06:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riverst View Post

Any one use the port plugs yet to tune down to 16hz. (currently i have no plugs installed and it sounds great) just wondering if its worth to plug one of the ports.
Also is it worth to buy the AS-EQ1 with one sub?

I actually have had a lot of success with the Velodyne SMS-1 for about half the price on the street (no Audyssey with the Velodyne unit, but you can optimize things manually).
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post #252 of 272 Old 02-18-2010, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riverst View Post

Any one use the port plugs yet to tune down to 16hz. (currently i have no plugs installed and it sounds great) just wondering if its worth to plug one of the ports.
Also is it worth to buy the AS-EQ1 with one sub?

My system has full range mains, tramsmission line passive subs that are flat down to about 28 hz, and down about 3db at 24 hz. I added the SVS to add muscle to the lower register, and free up my mains and power amps from producing the lower registers. I am crossing over the mains at 60hz. I know a lot of people prefer 80hz, stating you lose a little of the .1 channel sometimes by using 60hz, but it works fine for me and I prefer the sound this way, the midbass in my system is fantastic. Because of this set-up, I plugged one port. I used a rat shack meter and bass test tones to balance the sub with my main system. In short, I love the sound with one port plugged, but YMMV. A good example of movie bass would be the cannon attack at the beginning of Master and Commander .......... The SVS causes my subfloor to vibrate, my chair to shake, and the room to vibrate ......... you'd think I had a tactile unit in my chair. Again, everyones set-up and system is different, but I highly recommend plugging one port if it works with your mains and system.

John
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post #253 of 272 Old 02-20-2010, 09:58 AM
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I recieved my SVS PC12-plus about two weeks ago that replaced an old Velodyne VSX12/15, I think that was the model # that died on me. I'm very impressed no buyers remorse here. I have it paired up with my 15 year old Paradigm Studio 60v1 and a Studio CC center channel and MTX Blueprint Home Theater In Ceiling surrounds. I highly recommend this Sub. Stop researching and just buy it! My room demensions are 19 x 16 x 9.
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post #254 of 272 Old 02-27-2010, 03:46 AM
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Hi all,

I currently have two (2) PC12 Pluses in my home theater. It seems when I play a movie like 300 and guys crash into each other the subs should blow me away. Correct? I'm not getting that or maybe I am, not sure. How hot do you guys have your subs?

Could it be an issue with my reciever? Or Bluray player?

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post #255 of 272 Old 02-27-2010, 05:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Hunter68 View Post

Hi all,

I currently have two (2) PC12 Pluses in my home theater. It seems when I play a movie like 300 and guys crash into each other the subs should blow me away. Correct? I'm not getting that or maybe I am, not sure. How hot do you guys have your subs?

Could it be an issue with my reciever? Or Bluray player?

Pioneer Elite SC05
Pioneer Elite 23FD

The issue is almost certainly not with your equipment (assuming that your SC05 doesn't have DRC accidentally activated), but rather with your set up.

More than likely, the phases of your subs are conflicting--either with themselves or with your mains. Either that or your sub placement or listening area placement needs adjustment--or there is an issue with your room (say, if your room is nearly square in dimensions or if you are sitting exactly at the midpoint of any dimension in your room or against a wall)

First, I would try to optimize sub placement--with two subs, a good place to start is near the midpoint of the front wall and then at the midpoint of one of the side walls. Alternatively, you could try the corner(s). There are several helpful articles on line--PM if you need a link.

Once you've settled on sub positions, I would first try this calibration routine for dual subwoofers:

1.Set the AVR master volume to 0.0
2.Set the phase to 0 on both subs.
3.Set the SPL meter to C-weighted Slow 70 scale at the listening position, at head level, pointed at the front stage, and angled upward at a 45 degree angle.
4.Play the test tones for all speaker channels and adjust each channel to 75 dB on the meter (that would be +5 on the meter when set to the 70 scale).
5.Set the subwoofer channel level to +1 in the AVR.
6.Turn on subwoofer #1 only. Play the subwoofer test tone and adjust the gain on subwoofer #1 until the SPL meter reads 72-74 dB (it will fluctuate so try for an average of 73 dB).

Turn on subwoofer #2 only. Play the subwoofer test tone and adjust the gain on subwoofer #2 until the SPL meter reads 72-74 dB (it will fluctuate so try for an average of 73 dB).
Turn on both subwoofers. Play the subwoofer test tone and verify there is a 6 dB increase to 78-80 dB (an average of 79 dB).
If there is not a 6 dB increase, adjust the phase on the CLOSER subwoofer until you get the most possible reinforcement. If the subs are separated, you may only get 4 dB max. A helper is useful at this point.
Once you have achieved the most possible reinforcement, reduce the subwoofer channel level until the combined SPL with both subwoofers running is 73-75 dB on average.

If you do this and things still sound weak, it may be time to invest in something like a Velodyne SMS-1, which will allow you to adjust the phase of your sub signal in conjunction with your mains and gives a visual FR and EQ to help smooth things out and/or dial in a house curve.

I used these steps (running at 78dB with a house curve), and I can assure you that in a medium size room (13 X 19 X 10 with a large opening to a big area), my 2 PC-12 Pluses shake pretty much everything without getting boomy. If a klutz like me can do it, anyone can

Good luck!
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post #256 of 272 Old 02-27-2010, 11:58 AM
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Just ordered the PC12-Plus. I agonized over whether to get the Ultra, but the Plus should be a huge upgrade over my Polk PSW350 (10"). I don't listen at reference levels and I'm not an audiophile so I'm hoping the Plus will be enough. It will be used mostly for HT.
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post #257 of 272 Old 02-27-2010, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToBeFrank View Post

Just ordered the PC12-Plus. I agonized over whether to get the Ultra, but the Plus should be a huge upgrade over my Polk PSW350 (10"). I don't listen at reference levels and I'm not an audiophile so I'm hoping the Plus will be enough. It will be used mostly for HT.

I consider myself an audiophile/videophile, and I went with the Plus for a large room, and it more than does the job. I listen at reference levels when watching movies and concerts and the Plus, once configured into my system and balanced, still has headroom available. You should be fine!

John
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post #258 of 272 Old 02-27-2010, 12:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToBeFrank View Post

Just ordered the PC12-Plus. I agonized over whether to get the Ultra, but the Plus should be a huge upgrade over my Polk PSW350 (10"). I don't listen at reference levels and I'm not an audiophile so I'm hoping the Plus will be enough. It will be used mostly for HT.

I'm sure you will be pleased with the performance of the Plus. Whether or not you will be satisfied will depend on your expectations. Some have low or reasonable expectations and are very satisfied with their new sub. Others expect the new sub to change their lives. These people are usually dissatisfied as a sub will not change your life. It just makes sound.

Randy
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post #259 of 272 Old 02-27-2010, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by antennahead View Post

I consider myself an audiophile/videophile, and I went with the Plus for a large room, and it more than does the job. I listen at reference levels when watching movies and concerts and the Plus, once configured into my system and balanced, still has headroom available. You should be fine!

John

1+ --you'll most likely be fine as long as you position and set up the sub well in the space.

Besides, if you really feel the need, you can always add another Plus, and then you'll have more headroom than the ultra!
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post #260 of 272 Old 02-27-2010, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by antennahead View Post

I consider myself an audiophile/videophile, and I went with the Plus for a large room, and it more than does the job. I listen at reference levels when watching movies and concerts and the Plus, once configured into my system and balanced, still has headroom available. You should be fine!

Thanks! Actually, one of your posts detailing your room size is why I went with the Plus. My living room is only 2100 cubic feet, but one side is open to the dining area making the room about 3500 cubic feet. From there the opening to the entryway is 100 sq ft. I'm hoping my results will be similar to yours.

I can't imagine I won't be satisfied with it. To be honest the Polk I have seems to me like it puts out a lot of bass. It just doesn't go very low and is kind of boomy. I do have Audyssey so I think that helps. The gain on the Polk is only set at 40% and Audyssey still configured it down 4dB. I'm currently setting up REW so I can see what the Polk looks like in my room and compare it to the new SVS. Can't wait!
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post #261 of 272 Old 02-27-2010, 06:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToBeFrank View Post

Thanks! Actually, one of your posts detailing your room size is why I went with the Plus. My living room is only 2100 cubic feet, but one side is open to the dining area making the room about 3500 cubic feet. From there the opening to the entryway is 100 sq ft. I'm hoping my results will be similar to yours.

I can't imagine I won't be satisfied with it. To be honest the Polk I have seems to me like it puts out a lot of bass. It just doesn't go very low and is kind of boomy. I do have Audyssey so I think that helps. The gain on the Polk is only set at 40% and Audyssey still configured it down 4dB. I'm currently setting up REW so I can see what the Polk looks like in my room and compare it to the new SVS. Can't wait!


I have an older Anthem pre/pro with no room correction. I am using Odyssey Stratos mono blocks for the mains (Fried sat/subs in separate transmission line enclosures, looks like an older Wilson Watt/Puppy), and a 3 channel Odyssey (like a Stratos mono and a stereo Stratus) for the center and surrounds. The Stratos put out a very clean 180 watts RMS. Prior to the SVS Plus, the mains and mono blocks were doing all the low end, and were flat down to about 29hz, and down 3 db at 25hz, and began running off a lot after that. I was missing that VERY low end that shakes the room, but for music was really in heaven. I decided to cross over the system at 60hz. I think it sounds better for music that way, and not a low of info is recorded on the .1 track over 60hz anyway. The slope for the crossover to the SVS is 12db per octave, so at 90hz it is down only 6 db anyway. Anyhow to the point "smiles"........ after I set up the Plus and ran my bass tones and sweeps and adjusted everything to a pretty flat response and had the volume of the Plus right, I still had the volume control on the SVS to only about 40% of it's capacity. The subwoofer volume of the Anthem was on 7 of 10, allowing me to tweek from the pre/pro up and down a little if needed, if I want to compensate for shortcomings in the source (I try not to do that though "smiles"). As you can see, you should have plenty of headroom in your room with the Plus. Things like the cannon attack at the beginning of Master and Commander literally shake the house. I did a lot of work on the room years ago to position things to interrupt early reflections, a carpet wall hanging on one wall because there is a opening in the mirror position....... things to get me to a pretty flat response without using any EQ (this was pre Audyssey). You should get a great sound with the Audyssey active. I have a modest bedroom system with an Onkyo receiver with Audyssey, and the difference it made on that system blew me away. Look forward to hearing how you like the SVS.

John
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post #262 of 272 Old 02-28-2010, 05:53 AM
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Hi,

Got my PC12-Plus two weeks ago based on what I read here, since they were sound unheard at the time. Over the years, I had a Paradigm PDR-12. It worked well, but in a direct comparison with a Harmon Kardon SUBTS-12 (much cheaper!) I preferred the HK -- more depth and punch. Plus the old amp in the Paradigm developed a hum that you could hear when everything was totally quiet.

I decided I wanted to make the jump to a $1000 subwoofer, but did not want a huge footprint. Then the PB12-Plus hit the big time with Sound and Vision's Editor Choice awards. With the same components in the PC12-Plus, and a smaller footprint it was natural to choose a cylinder over the box.

It was lucky I had a dolly... to move the coffin sized box inside and open it where it was to be placed. 85 pounds shipping weight. Unpacking, it was obvious that SVS takes great care in keeping the sub safe from UPS and weather conditions.

First, I was floored by its sheer size -- it is a little water heater... it overwhelms everything else in the room. Second, the sound also can overwhelm everything if you are not careful. While I did a calibration with a sound meter, I found that I prefer slightly more bass than that calibration would indicate, but no where near the 50% mark that you start at....more like 40%. And the sub is not in a corner, but on a flat wall next to an angled fireplace (about 60 degrees). The room is open to a kitchen and dining room with about 1200 sq ft total, and vaulted ceilings, carpeting in the listening area, and tile elsewhere.

Sound is spectacularly better than anything I had in the past. The sound that gets me the most is with bullets flying. There is a distinct pop and responsiveness to that particular sound that I think demonstrates the capabilities of the sub.... you feel that pop in your body.

I briefly plugged one port and then three to see the difference, and I preferred the unplugged port configuration the best. There is something about the air rushing out the top that I find appealing.

In short, I am super happy with my SVS purchase, it blends well with the rest of my system. Purchase was easy on line and when I wrote an email requesting that the package be held at UPS rather than an attempted delivery, I got an immediate email back saying it would be done.

Next replacement--I am upgrading my old Paradigm 9SE-MK2 fronts I bought back in the 90's. They are a great speaker, but time to move up to the Studio 60's. 9SE's to be in my bedroom. Considered the SVS fronts, but sound unheard for fronts, and my experience with Paradigm pushed made me to Paradigm fronts.
LL
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post #263 of 272 Old 03-02-2010, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mvp2005fan View Post

The issue is almost certainly not with your equipment (assuming that your SC05 doesn't have DRC accidentally activated), but rather with your set up.

More than likely, the phases of your subs are conflicting--either with themselves or with your mains. Either that or your sub placement or listening area placement needs adjustment--or there is an issue with your room (say, if your room is nearly square in dimensions or if you are sitting exactly at the midpoint of any dimension in your room or against a wall)

First, I would try to optimize sub placement--with two subs, a good place to start is near the midpoint of the front wall and then at the midpoint of one of the side walls. Alternatively, you could try the corner(s). There are several helpful articles on line--PM if you need a link.

Once you've settled on sub positions, I would first try this calibration routine for dual subwoofers:

1.Set the AVR master volume to 0.0
2.Set the phase to 0 on both subs.
3.Set the SPL meter to C-weighted Slow 70 scale at the listening position, at head level, pointed at the front stage, and angled upward at a 45 degree angle.
4.Play the test tones for all speaker channels and adjust each channel to 75 dB on the meter (that would be +5 on the meter when set to the 70 scale).
5.Set the subwoofer channel level to +1 in the AVR.
6.Turn on subwoofer #1 only. Play the subwoofer test tone and adjust the gain on subwoofer #1 until the SPL meter reads 72-74 dB (it will fluctuate so try for an average of 73 dB).

Turn on subwoofer #2 only. Play the subwoofer test tone and adjust the gain on subwoofer #2 until the SPL meter reads 72-74 dB (it will fluctuate so try for an average of 73 dB).
Turn on both subwoofers. Play the subwoofer test tone and verify there is a 6 dB increase to 78-80 dB (an average of 79 dB).
If there is not a 6 dB increase, adjust the phase on the CLOSER subwoofer until you get the most possible reinforcement. If the subs are separated, you may only get 4 dB max. A helper is useful at this point.
Once you have achieved the most possible reinforcement, reduce the subwoofer channel level until the combined SPL with both subwoofers running is 73-75 dB on average.

If you do this and things still sound weak, it may be time to invest in something like a Velodyne SMS-1, which will allow you to adjust the phase of your sub signal in conjunction with your mains and gives a visual FR and EQ to help smooth things out and/or dial in a house curve.

I used these steps (running at 78dB with a house curve), and I can assure you that in a medium size room (13 X 19 X 10 with a large opening to a big area), my 2 PC-12 Pluses shake pretty much everything without getting boomy. If a klutz like me can do it, anyone can

Good luck!

Thank you MVP...I worked on this over the weekend and got very close. The sound from the subs is still a little boomy, but getting much better with your help from above. Thanks,
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post #264 of 272 Old 10-19-2010, 03:19 PM
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I bought the PC-12Plus a couple of months ago (pre-Sledge amp). Put it in a very large finished basement not perfectly rectangular, about 20 by 35 feet. Replaced a HSU VTF-2, which was decent but got kicked into a smaller room. After calibrating with Audessey, I thought it sounded good, but wasn't particularly blown away on day 1. In the following months I may have bumped up the level of the subwoofer a few db, while tweaking my setup. I also added a few more Blu-Rays with deep bass in my collection. Anyway, while recently watching Iron Man 2, I found myself very impressed with the couch-shaking bass this SVS produces. I wonder if there is a "break-in" period for the drivers. Anyway, it is filling my room (using corner placement) very well, and isn't straining to produce volume and impact, and doesn't sound bloated or "one note" at all.
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post #265 of 272 Old 11-15-2010, 05:14 AM
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West, for me, it was the other way around, i'm the one who needed a break-in after i got my sub, so impressed was i by the sounds.
it takes a while to not think you've blown up your sub like, for example when the tripod comes out of the ground in WOTW, you then think that either you now have a big hole in your living room floor or the heavy speaker in that water heater has exploded like an over-revved big V8.
even though i'm now used to it, i know that when i watch that scene again sometime, i'll still cringe when i see it coming.
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post #266 of 272 Old 08-11-2012, 04:10 PM
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I'm hoping this thread isn't dead. frown.gif  I've just ordered my 2nd PC-12+.  Does anyone have any ideas on which sounds better - the Bash amp version or the Sledge amp version?  Now that I will be running dual subs, I'm wondering if it will matter in the long run.  Thanks for any response.
 

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post #267 of 272 Old 08-22-2012, 05:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thebesthereis View Post

I'm hoping this thread isn't dead. frown.gif  I've just ordered my 2nd PC-12+.  Does anyone have any ideas on which sounds better - the Bash amp version or the Sledge amp version?  Now that I will be running dual subs, I'm wondering if it will matter in the long run.  Thanks for any response.
 

 

i've had the PC12 Plus (Bash) for about 2 years now; yesterday i got a second sub: PC13 Ultra (Sledge).

 

after Audyssey calibration and running the subs 3 dB hot, i ran the first Bourne movie and found the sound excellent, even somewhat better than before, maybe

because the subs don't have to work as hard, but just loafing.

i also listened to music for a couple of hours and found that the 2 subs work together very well, as if there was only one sub, and they integrate perfectly

with the main speakers. i can never tell whether a particular sound is played through my mains or my subs, it is seamless.

 

i will get a better idea about the 2 subs with the passing months, but i expect that i will find more and more satisfaction from them.

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post #268 of 272 Old 08-25-2012, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gellidius View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by thebesthereis View Post

I'm hoping this thread isn't dead. frown.gif  I've just ordered my 2nd PC-12+.  Does anyone have any ideas on which sounds better - the Bash amp version or the Sledge amp version?  Now that I will be running dual subs, I'm wondering if it will matter in the long run.  Thanks for any response.
 

 

i've had the PC12 Plus (Bash) for about 2 years now; yesterday i got a second sub: PC13 Ultra (Sledge).

 

after Audyssey calibration and running the subs 3 dB hot, i ran the first Bourne movie and found the sound excellent, even somewhat better than before, maybe

because the subs don't have to work as hard, but just loafing.

i also listened to music for a couple of hours and found that the 2 subs work together very well, as if there was only one sub, and they integrate perfectly

with the main speakers. i can never tell whether a particular sound is played through my mains or my subs, it is seamless.

 

i will get a better idea about the 2 subs with the passing months, but i expect that i will find more and more satisfaction from them.


Thanks Gellidius for the reply and the PM.

 

Before you re-ran Audyssey, did you calibrate each sub independently to a specific -dB?  I'm using a Denon 3808CI and it does not have dual sub outputs so I'm using a splitter to run the signal to both subs simultaneously.  But first, SVS customer service have suggested that I tune each sub to the same -dB level.  My AVR is setting the subs to -12dB (the floor) so I must have been running the subs too hot.  Still tweaking to get the subs gains levels dialed in perfectly before I re-run Audyssey again.  Another thing that I will be doing this time around is fully porting either 1 or both subs since I have 2 now. 

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post #269 of 272 Old 08-27-2012, 04:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thebesthereis View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gellidius View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by thebesthereis View Post

I'm hoping this thread isn't dead. frown.gif  I've just ordered my 2nd PC-12+.  Does anyone have any ideas on which sounds better - the Bash amp version or the Sledge amp version?  Now that I will be running dual subs, I'm wondering if it will matter in the long run.  Thanks for any response.
 

 

i've had the PC12 Plus (Bash) for about 2 years now; yesterday i got a second sub: PC13 Ultra (Sledge).

 

after Audyssey calibration and running the subs 3 dB hot, i ran the first Bourne movie and found the sound excellent, even somewhat better than before, maybe

because the subs don't have to work as hard, but just loafing.

i also listened to music for a couple of hours and found that the 2 subs work together very well, as if there was only one sub, and they integrate perfectly

with the main speakers. i can never tell whether a particular sound is played through my mains or my subs, it is seamless.

 

i will get a better idea about the 2 subs with the passing months, but i expect that i will find more and more satisfaction from them.


Thanks Gellidius for the reply and the PM.

 

Before you re-ran Audyssey, did you calibrate each sub independently to a specific -dB?  I'm using a Denon 3808CI and it does not have dual sub outputs so I'm using a splitter to run the signal to both subs simultaneously.  But first, SVS customer service have suggested that I tune each sub to the same -dB level.  My AVR is setting the subs to -12dB (the floor) so I must have been running the subs too hot.  Still tweaking to get the subs gains levels dialed in perfectly before I re-run Audyssey again.  Another thing that I will be doing this time around is fully porting either 1 or both subs since I have 2 now. 

 

you should set the sensitivity on each sub separately, to about 72 dB SPL.

then check the overall level with both subs working; the resultant SPL should be higher than one sub alone.

then, with the meter at the MLP,  adjust the phase on one of the subs in order to get maximum SPL.

 

now, run Audyssey and make only one measurement, at the MLP and then "calculate".

next, check in the AVR for the channel levels. as long as the reading for the sub is not maxed out on either the plus 

or minus side, it should be ok (i prefer a bit on the minus side, like -3/-5dB).  if not, then make new sensitivity adjustments on the sub and run Audyssey again.

 

when the subs are well matched to the other speakers for level, then run Audyssey in a normal fashion, using 

all the available mic positions.

when done, if you want a flat-to-the-ear response, increase sub level in the AVR to + 3 dB; don't touch the sensitivity

setting on the sub..

 

it is not necessary to "adjust sub levels perfectly"; when it shows a few dB off the minimum/maximum, it's ok.

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post #270 of 272 Old 08-27-2012, 05:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gellidius View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by thebesthereis View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gellidius View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by thebesthereis View Post

I'm hoping this thread isn't dead. frown.gif  I've just ordered my 2nd PC-12+.  Does anyone have any ideas on which sounds better - the Bash amp version or the Sledge amp version?  Now that I will be running dual subs, I'm wondering if it will matter in the long run.  Thanks for any response.
 

 

i've had the PC12 Plus (Bash) for about 2 years now; yesterday i got a second sub: PC13 Ultra (Sledge).

 

after Audyssey calibration and running the subs 3 dB hot, i ran the first Bourne movie and found the sound excellent, even somewhat better than before, maybe

because the subs don't have to work as hard, but just loafing.

i also listened to music for a couple of hours and found that the 2 subs work together very well, as if there was only one sub, and they integrate perfectly

with the main speakers. i can never tell whether a particular sound is played through my mains or my subs, it is seamless.

 

i will get a better idea about the 2 subs with the passing months, but i expect that i will find more and more satisfaction from them.


Thanks Gellidius for the reply and the PM.

 

Before you re-ran Audyssey, did you calibrate each sub independently to a specific -dB?  I'm using a Denon 3808CI and it does not have dual sub outputs so I'm using a splitter to run the signal to both subs simultaneously.  But first, SVS customer service have suggested that I tune each sub to the same -dB level.  My AVR is setting the subs to -12dB (the floor) so I must have been running the subs too hot.  Still tweaking to get the subs gains levels dialed in perfectly before I re-run Audyssey again.  Another thing that I will be doing this time around is fully porting either 1 or both subs since I have 2 now. 

 

you should set the sensitivity on each sub separately, to about 72 dB SPL.

then check the overall level with both subs working; the resultant SPL should be higher than one sub alone.

then, with the meter at the MLP,  adjust the phase on one of the subs in order to get maximum SPL.

 

now, run Audyssey and make only one measurement, at the MLP and then "calculate".

next, check in the AVR for the channel levels. as long as the reading for the sub is not maxed out on either the plus 

or minus side, it should be ok (i prefer a bit on the minus side, like -3/-5dB).  if not, then make new sensitivity adjustments on the sub and run Audyssey again.

 

when the subs are well matched to the other speakers for level, then run Audyssey in a normal fashion, using 

all the available mic positions.

when done, if you want a flat-to-the-ear response, increase sub level in the AVR to + 3 dB; don't touch the sensitivity

setting on the sub..

 

it is not necessary to "adjust sub levels perfectly"; when it shows a few dB off the minimum/maximum, it's ok.


starting the 31st of Aug. I will have the time (5 days) to make these changes you've described.  Thanks! 

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