Old Velodyne HGS-10 vs current subs - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 29 Old 03-30-2009, 08:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Does anyone have experience with some vintage Velodyne subs such as the HGS-10 and the often mentioned recommendations on this forum?

With my HGS-10 I went through two amps and then went gentle on it in the many years since. I definitely want something I don't have to baby and I'm looking for a good match for my NHT Classic Threes (ah, dearly departed NHT)...

Because I like the control and lack of distortion of the HGS I've been looking mostly at sealed subs - possibly in pairs - but am open to others. My preference is for a sub that takes XLR inputs because I'd like to place it far from the receiver and I know I pick up hum using unbalanced lines. (I'd have to get an unbalanced RCA to balanced XLR converter for this - suggestions?)

OK - the list - sealed:
HSU ULS-15 15" $1299
Epik Dragon 18" $999
Epik Vanquish 12" $699
SVSound SB12-Plus ~12" $649
Elemental Design A7S-450 18" (no XLR) $775

Ported (less interested):
AV123 MFW-15 15" (no XLR) $699
Epik Phoenix 18" $1099
Epik Sentinel 12" $799

Size is an issue so no overly large subs are listed. The question is whether it's worth it to replace the HGS with any of these? I know the HGS-10 is tiny but the NHT Classic Three aren't exactly high output overachievers. There's no delusion about "reference SPL" in my head. Front runners in my mind are:

1 HSU ULS-15 (2?)
1 Epik Dragon (2? :-O )
2 Epik Vanquish

Thoughts?
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post #2 of 29 Old 03-31-2009, 08:41 AM
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What about one of the Velo DD subs? I had a DD10 for a while and loved it. you can get a 10 or 12 pre-owned for pretty decent prices...

I think we're the demons.
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post #3 of 29 Old 03-31-2009, 09:13 AM
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Many of the subs you listed can play much deeper at high volumes than your HGS 10. For a good combination of sound qualiity and enough power that you should have no reason to baby it, I would suggest the HSU ULS-15.

For your protection I would also consider the extended warranty to compliment the standard 7 years on the driver and 2 years on the electronics. The extended warranty adds 3 more years of warranty protection to the electronics. With your unfortunate experience with your Velo, an extended warranty might let you sleep easier.

Call HSU for more information on the extended warranty including price.
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post #4 of 29 Old 03-31-2009, 08:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soundemon View Post

What about one of the Velo DD subs? I had a DD10 for a while and loved it. you can get a 10 or 12 pre-owned for pretty decent prices...

I'm going to stay away from pre-owned and new is a bit out of the question. Love the technology though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by spyboy View Post

Many of the subs you listed can play much deeper at high volumes than your HGS 10. For a good combination of sound qualiity and enough power that you should have no reason to baby it, I would suggest the HSU ULS-15.

Also noted the Rythmik F15, nice that it's servo controlled and has a reputation for sound quality but it seems underpowered.

The HGS-10 was 1000W RMS but that's with a tiny driver. These Internet direct subs have significantly less power, even down to the Rythmik's 350W. Would love to see output graphs of the Dragon, ULS-15 and Rythmik to see what happens when the driver, cabinet, etc are also considered. So far I haven't been able to find them - too new in some cases. Doh.
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post #5 of 29 Old 04-01-2009, 05:10 AM
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Converting from RCA to balanced XLR isn't going to do anything for you as far as interference rejection. To pick up the benefits of balanced line level connections both ends need to be balanced.
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post #6 of 29 Old 04-01-2009, 05:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WonHung View Post

Converting from RCA to balanced XLR isn't going to do anything for you as far as interference rejection. To pick up the benefits of balanced line level connections both ends need to be balanced.

Not sure I follow you here. Converting unbalanced RCA to balanced XLR certainly will improve interference rejection if the interference is being picked up by the part of the run that's now balanced.

Use a product like this one:
http://www.artproaudio.com/products....0&cat=13&id=77

I'm sure there are more - I was looking for recommendations.
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post #7 of 29 Old 04-01-2009, 10:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haydonavsforum View Post

Not sure I follow you here. Converting unbalanced RCA to balanced XLR certainly will improve interference rejection if the interference is being picked up by the part of the run that's now balanced.

Use a product like this one:
http://www.artproaudio.com/products....0&cat=13&id=77

I'm sure there are more - I was looking for recommendations.

Because you still have to use an unbalanced interconnect to that adapter which then converts the signal over to a balanced output. That unbalanced connection would still pick up any environmental interference.
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post #8 of 29 Old 04-02-2009, 02:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WonHung View Post

Because you still have to use an unbalanced interconnect to that adapter which then converts the signal over to a balanced output. That unbalanced connection would still pick up any environmental interference.

OK, I guess that explains the confusion. There would be about a 1 foot jumper between the preamp and the converter. The other 25 feet of the run (which will now be balanced) is the part that had been susceptible to picking up interference.
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post #9 of 29 Old 04-03-2009, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haydonavsforum View Post

I'm going to stay away from pre-owned and new is a bit out of the question. Love the technology though.

Also noted the Rythmik F15, nice that it's servo controlled and has a reputation for sound quality but it seems underpowered.

The HGS-10 was 1000W RMS but that's with a tiny driver. These Internet direct subs have significantly less power, even down to the Rythmik's 350W. Would love to see output graphs of the Dragon, ULS-15 and Rythmik to see what happens when the driver, cabinet, etc are also considered. So far I haven't been able to find them - too new in some cases. Doh.

The fact that your HGS-10 has a 1,000 watt amp has absolutely nothing to do with how many watts any other subwoofer "should" have.

A perfect example is the 350 watt MFW-15, which, with its 15 inch driver is powered with the exact number of watts that Mark Seaton found to get the most out of the MFW.

Once in a while, a tester will conclude that at some frequencies, a subwoofers output is amp limited. None the less, the vast majority of commercial subs have the right amount of power.

The way you are thinking, you would want to restrict yourself to the 2,700 watt Sunfire subs. Just look how much output they have compared to the MFW, for example...

Not only that, subs amps are rated differently. The J L Audio subs do not even tell you how many watts RMS they can sustain.

I believe you are mistaken in thinking the Rythmik is underpowered with 370 watts.
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post #10 of 29 Old 04-03-2009, 04:57 PM
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I run 5 NHT classic 3s along with a NHT center and have them matched to a SVS ultra PB13. Once set up properly, there is no mis match between the 3's and the sub. I am running in a room just shy of 2000 cubic feet open via steps to kitchen.
I moved from a sealed AC Titan II over to the ported SVS. Once set up properly, I can not fuss about the 'design', the totally integrated sound is the object.
Good luck

deeper than the deepest ocean
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post #11 of 29 Old 04-03-2009, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haydonavsforum View Post

Also noted the Rythmik F15, nice that it's servo controlled and has a reputation for sound quality but it seems underpowered.

The HGS-10 was 1000W RMS but that's with a tiny driver. These Internet direct subs have significantly less power, even down to the Rythmik's 350W. Would love to see output graphs of the Dragon, ULS-15 and Rythmik to see what happens when the driver, cabinet, etc are also considered. So far I haven't been able to find them - too new in some cases. Doh.

I would suggest giving the Rythmik F15 a listen before passing it over.
Servo subs when properly designed, are very low distortion and it is easy
to get used to. You might only notice when you hear something that
is not servo controlled. Still it is not a universal panacea and not all folks like
the result.

The HGS10 uses a lot of power to accelerate the cone in a small sealed
enclosure due to the high gain servo.

Velodyne relies on an accelerometer in the cone to measure the
displacement (double integral of the acceleration signal) of the cone and to
correct the overshoot. Pretty nifty technology

The current generation of the Digital Drives implements the servo control
loop using DSP technology plus the addition an automated equalizer to
tailor the response to the room. This gives you a little extra freedom
with placement.

I have the HGS18MKII and the DD12
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post #12 of 29 Old 04-04-2009, 09:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tong Chia View Post

I have the HGS18MKII and the DD12

Tong,

I can further explain how our servo subs are different from Velodyne. This is not to talk down the value of your Velodyne subs. I would like to answer a couple of questions other have regarding the comparison fo the two.

1) All accelerometer-based subs are critically stable. They don't perform well when they are driven into clipping. Hook them up without enclosure will further demonstrate that. So the limiter in those subs are the life-saver for them. They needs to be zero tolerant to clipping. So a normal limiter design that is based on the output waveform cannot work at all as this design would potentially allow one clipping to escape and cause the accelerometer servo system to lose control. So it needs to be designed based the input signal strength (instead of the amplifier output waveform) and the big variable in his type of preamp stage limiter (it is actually is an Automatic gain controller, or AGC) is how to predict the ouptut waveform will start clipping based on input signal.

2) The problem using AGC as limiter to prevent clipping is that the servo is also an adaptive EQ. The input/output relation at the power amplifier stage depends on the voice coil temperature. To ensure proper operation under all temperature condition, it is designed for the worse case -- highest temperature. That means when the voice coil is cold, the limiter will cut in prematurely. That would require power amplifier with huge reserve and at low temperature, it is not fully utilized at all.

3) To appeal to customers, Velodyne also use smaller enclosures. Since the wall thickness can take out the effective enclosure volume dramatically in small enclosures, the internal enclosure volume scale down way faster than what the external dimension suggests. For instance, by reducing the external dimension volume by 10%, it may take away 25% of the effective internal volume if one takes account the driver magnet, ... 25% smaller volume means 50% more power is needed. If one adds all these up and you can see why it needs so much more power. I have an ULD15-II. That is an enclosure size I would build and it uses only 400WRMS power (if I still remember correctly). All this changes when Bob Carver introduced Sunfire subwoofers which demonstrates that consumers can be easily led to think higher power means higher output regardless enclosure size. And that had prompted Velodyne to get into this wattage competition. Bob is a brilliant engineer, but his venture of Sunfire subwoofers is not a good one.

To conclude the comparison, here is the measurement for DD12
http://www.avtalk.co.uk/showthread.php?t=15242
92db output at 20hz with 1250WRMS. 96db at 30hz.

Here is our 12" driver at ******* (do a google and you will find):
forums/subwoofer-tests/5756-diy-rythmik-audio-direct-servo-12-sealed-56l.html

96db output at 20hz with 370WRMS and 105db at 30hz.

Even though DirectServo has higher output, the distortion at 96db is pretty high because the amplifier is already at clipping. However, a fair distortion comparison is the 95db output line of our sub vs DD-12 95db output line. It is pretty comparable. Nevertheless, the key is that our servo design does not need limiter to keep it alive. They are allowed to get into clipping just like all other nonservo subs. That has increased the useful output with HT usage. In other words, we get to enjoy the benefits of servo without any compromise. So what is the benefit of servo? It is the fast response from a low Q/high damped brought in by servo feedback. It is actually 3x lower nonservo subs. In additon, a stable frequency response because of the adaptive EQ inherited in servo operation.

If we compare 96db at 30hz of DD12 and 105db at 30hz of our servo, that is 9db difference which is 9x difference in power. Let us just assume Velodyne prematurely turns on AGC to prevent clipping, that is still a huge under-utilization. AVtalk also has DD15 and the story is the same. I know there is a lot of questions about why the power requirement of our servo subs is so different from others. I hope I have answered to the point.

BTW, directservo technology has been around for 6 years now. You can do a google search for feedback all the way dated back to 2004 or 2003. In the first few years, we only addressed the custom installation market. After the technology is well proven in the field, we begin to offer completed subs mid last year.
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post #13 of 29 Old 04-04-2009, 01:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik View Post

Tong,

I can further explain how our servo subs are different from Velodyne...

I am always pleased when a servo sub manufacturer takes the time to talk
about the technology. I worked on a couple of motional feedback
loudspeaker designs back in college in the early 90s and
have been following the developments ever since.


Points (1) and (2) are challenges the designer must solve when
implementing accelerometer based systems.
I leave it to Velodyne to articulate their approach.

You are quite right about (3). I bought the DD12 recently and it was
about 1/4 the size of the HGS18. I wanted a small sub and was originally
looking at the MiniVee and DefTech Supercube.

Rythmik's approach to get the similar SPLs using less amplifier
power is quite innovative. The cost is very attractive.

Coming back to the OPs question, I think a general explanation about why
servo subs matter would be very useful coming from a manufacturer
as the original candidates of comparison do not have any sort
of motional feedback.
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post #14 of 29 Old 04-05-2009, 06:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks very much for the replies in this thread. Rythmik's post was very helpful and informative and provided a link to precisely the type of information I wish I had for every other sub.

That information made me very impressed the current class favorite, the SVS PB13-Ultra, even though it's not up for consideration. I'm surprised at how well a ported sub can behave.

After much more research I've narrowed down the field to Rythmik vs Epik. Basically I'm going sealed, and possibly servo controlled. Unfortunately I don't have the same type of test information available on the Epik.

2x
Epik Vanquish 12" (1.9cu/ft external) $699
Rythmik F12 12" (2.6cu/ft external) $799

1x (maybe 2x)
Epik Dragon 18" (4.9cu/ft external) $999
Rythmik F15 15" (4.5cu/ft external) $899

Key manufacturer benefits I perceive in the audio realm are:
- Rythmik is servo controlled, accurate, great group delay
- Epik doesn't roll off at the high end nearly as quickly,
good crossover flexibility, should have good group delay (?)

Rythmik also has nicer (more furniture like) cabinets. It's really hard to make a call on this. I wish I had two of each to check out.
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post #15 of 29 Old 04-06-2009, 05:32 PM - Thread Starter
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After much deliberation the Rythmik F12SE got the nod. Factors that are hard to ignore are:

- It seemed like a good balance between size and output.
- I suspect I'd have problems moving a delicate and awkward sized 150lb object safely myself.
- Not sure what the housing situation will look like in the near future.
- Placement should be relatively easy.
- Piano black.

We'll see what one does and go from there ...

Now to see how long it'll take to arrive. The waiting begins.
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post #16 of 29 Old 04-14-2009, 08:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, I received my Rythmik F12SE today. Entirely initial impressions here. I haven't had more than 20 playing minutes on it. The good and the not-as-good...

The good:
1) Packed great
2) The gloss black finish looks great
3) Powers up (with a bit of a thump) and plays...
4) Decent sized heatsink and toroidal transformer
5) If you want to see your sub work, the silver driver is a plus

The not-as-good:
1) Completely made in China
2) Sourced in China right down to the Jun Fu capacitors (this brand was identified as one of the sellers of failing capacitors, let's hope they've fixed it by now)
3) Fit and finish could use a bit of work.
3a) The plate amp seemed to bulge out a bit. I thought there might be something between the plate and the case so I tried to correct it. There were no obstructions and I was unable to get it to fit flush though it seemed sealed. Strange.
3b) One of the pins that holds the grill on wasn't glued into the grill. It came out and was stuck in the rubber grommet on the sub.

The "not-as-good" list is definitely the reason Velodyne and others exist. I'm sure their equipment lasts longer.

Will do more mucking around with it soon. So far I'm 50/50 with whether I did the right thing.
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post #17 of 29 Old 04-15-2009, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haydonavsforum View Post

Well, I received my Rythmik F12SE today. Entirely initial impressions here. I haven't had more than 20 playing minutes on it. The good and the not-as-good...

The good:
1) Packed great
2) The gloss black finish looks great
3) Powers up (with a bit of a thump) and plays...
4) Decent sized heatsink and toroidal transformer
5) If you want to see your sub work, the silver driver is a plus

The not-as-good:
1) Completely made in China
2) Sourced in China right down to the Jun Fu capacitors (this brand was identified as one of the sellers of failing capacitors, let's hope they've fixed it by now)
3) Fit and finish could use a bit of work.
3a) The plate amp seemed to bulge out a bit. I thought there might be something between the plate and the case so I tried to correct it. There were no obstructions and I was unable to get it to fit flush though it seemed sealed. Strange.
3b) One of the pins that holds the grill on wasn't glued into the grill. It came out and was stuck in the rubber grommet on the sub.

The "not-as-good" list is definitely the reason Velodyne and others exist. I'm sure their equipment lasts longer.

Will do more mucking around with it soon. So far I'm 50/50 with whether I did the right thing.

Man, I have to tell you that I was expecting you to say something about sound quality. THAT is what this sub is supposed to be all about.

The turn-on thump is pretty disappointing at this price. As are the bulging plate amp, and the grill pin.

QC is certainly not in the same class as SVS, let alone Velodyne and J L Audio.

The HSU ULS-15 would most likely been a big step up in these quality control areas. HSU sells an extended warranty for the ULS-15 that brings the total warranty to 7 years for the driver and 5 years for the electronics. You would have to call about the price of the extended warranty.
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post #18 of 29 Old 04-15-2009, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haydonavsforum View Post

The not-as-good:
1) Completely made in China
2) Sourced in China right down to the Jun Fu capacitors (this brand was identified as one of the sellers of failing capacitors, let's hope they've fixed it by now)
3) Fit and finish could use a bit of work.
3a) The plate amp seemed to bulge out a bit. I thought there might be something between the plate and the case so I tried to correct it. There were no obstructions and I was unable to get it to fit flush though it seemed sealed. Strange.
3b) One of the pins that holds the grill on wasn't glued into the grill. It came out and was stuck in the rubber grommet on the sub.

The "not-as-good" list is definitely the reason Velodyne and others exist. I'm sure their equipment lasts longer.

Will do more mucking around with it soon. So far I'm 50/50 with whether I did the right thing.

Even though it says it is made by China, it is completely assembled in US here in TX. I personally assemble it and do all the testing before I release them to the customers. That is why there is a bit of turn-around time. So if you would like to blame someone for the craftsmanship, that would be me. Among all the items that really concern me is the grille pin. When I install them, they are intact. I do have one or two related damage sub reported back to me during the last 5 months that we were shipping these. But that is all I know. I hope customers can report these back to me so that we can improve. The package is already the best I can think of. The only thing is to make the grille just a bit smaller so that it does not contact the EPE packing. This will definitely prevent the packing pushing the grille during transportation. I am not surprised with the others.

1) completely source in China. They are assembled in US. The components are sourced from China. iPhone and iPods are also from China. As for Velodyne, Actually some DD series subs are also made in Taiwan now. I talked to their assembly contractor a couple of times and I know a bit of inside information.

2) Jung Fu capacitors. They are just fine. I have used them for 5 years and if I have return because of that, I would be in serious trouble. The key point is how to use them with correct rating. These are 100v capacitors, they are not those 80v version you are referring to. I know the incident that you referredto. It was an engineering mistake that was corrected 5 years ago. The root cause is the selection of voltage rating allows no margin when 80v caps are used in 80v power rails. These are 100v. There is a 30% margin.

3) The plate amp is just like that. It is not as amenable as other thinner plate amp. Our plate is 1/4" thick. Our design is try to flush the plate. If we don't flush it, like the other manufacturers, maybe this is not a problem. But definitely it will not look as good. As for the grille issue, as I acknowledged there is something that can be improved from both assembly and design.

I hope the above answers your concern. All critics are welcome. But I am sure your standard is pretty high one. We will do our best.
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post #19 of 29 Old 04-15-2009, 11:55 AM
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The power up thump is interesting. Mine is on auto-on, and never thumps. I just tried going from full-off to full-on, and no thump as well.

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post #20 of 29 Old 04-15-2009, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cschang View Post

The power up thump is interesting. Mine is on auto-on, and never thumps. I just tried going from full-off to full-on, and no thump as well.

It is the not type of "thump" that you are thinking of. In an ordinary amp, the is a relay to delay the connection of speaker to amp. For the case of HGS amps, the amp will turn into oscillation if that relay is not present. I don't like relay as it is yet another mechanical device that can turn into a source of reliability problems. None of our amps have relay. There will be a bit of turn on noise. But it is not to a degree of "thump".
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post #21 of 29 Old 04-15-2009, 12:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik View Post

It is the not type of "thump" that you are thinking of. In an ordinary amp, the is a relay to delay the connection of speaker to amp. For the case of HGS amps, the amp will turn into oscillation if that relay is not present. I don't like relay as it is yet another mechanical device that can turn into a source of reliability problems. None of our amps have relay. There will be a bit of turn on noise. But it is not to a degree of "thump".

If I am hearing what you are talking about, then the click of the actual switch is louder than the "thump".

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post #22 of 29 Old 04-15-2009, 02:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cschang View Post

If I am hearing what you are talking about, then the click of the actual switch is louder than the "thump".

The relay will solve the "thump" problem. But a relay uses a point contact to pass current if you ever open one. It is also movable part too. That contact point needs to pass 10A RMS or over 14A peak current. The higher power, a better relay is needed. If a design can do without a relay, one should avoid using it.

[EDIT]
BTW, now I realize Haydonavsforum actually got the XLR version (not many got that and I was under the impression it was the PEQ version). I assembled it and I forgot what it was for.

The thump noise on the XLR version indeed is a bit louder than I like. The PEQ version has very little thump. The source of the thump is traced to the preamp circuit, which is a little bit different from the PEQ version. What I would recommend as a "workaround" is to set it to off when power on and then slide to the on or other position.
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post #23 of 29 Old 04-15-2009, 08:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spyboy View Post

Man, I have to tell you that I was expecting you to say something about sound quality. THAT is what this sub is supposed to be all about.

To be determined on the sound quality. I haven't been able to put in any significant listening. Initial impressions are positive though. So far it's pretty obvious it gets louder and lower than my old HGS-10 but that's about all I can say for now.
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post #24 of 29 Old 04-15-2009, 09:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik View Post

The relay will solve the "thump" problem. But a relay uses a point contact to pass current if you ever open one. It is also movable part too. That contact point needs to pass 10A RMS or over 14A peak current. The higher power, a better relay is needed. If a design can do without a relay, one should avoid using it.
[EDIT]
BTW, now I realize Haydonavsforum actually got the XLR version (not many got that and I was under the impression it was the PEQ version). I assembled it and I forgot what it was for.

The thump noise on the XLR version indeed is a bit louder than I like. The PEQ version has very little thump. The source of the thump is traced to the preamp circuit, which is a little bit different from the PEQ version. What I would recommend as a "workaround" is to set it to off when power on and then slide to the on or other position.

Yup, you got the right order. That was me with the SE version, XLR amp and silver driver. Nice combo by the way. Since you give people so many options keeping inventory of parts and assembling them makes a lot of sense.

All said I'd probably look to avoid a relay too. There was no damage to the sub or the grill at all from shipping - it just lacked sufficient adhesive. I simply epoxied the peg into the grill. I'm pretty sure that will solve the problem for me. I'd like to see the toroidal transformer secured a bit better.

Regarding quality vs engineering. It really seems like the quality of the components doesn't match the excellent engineering. For about another $20-100 you could improve, or really significantly improve all of the concerns I have. I know I'd pay the difference for a "premium build". I'm not suggesting that would be a good idea from a business perspective though. The capacitor failures that I was referring to was a bunch of low-end manufacturers using a bad electrolyte formula - not design errors using underrated parts.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

I'm looking forward to actually using it and seeing how it performs.
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post #25 of 29 Old 04-18-2009, 07:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haydonavsforum View Post

The "not-as-good" list is definitely the reason Velodyne and others exist. I'm sure their equipment lasts longer.

Like Brian says, Velodyne NOW make yours subwoofers and others components in China. This is my Velodyne SMS-1:




The most important part is the assembly, at this point Rythmik/Brian takes the advantage over other companies like Velodyne. All the Rythmik's subwoofers are assembly and TESTED by Brian in Austin TX. For me, this is a superior warranty over 7 or 10 years paper warranty.

Bye

Best Regards,

Enrico Castagnetti
Rythmik Audio

 

My Multimedia Room Gallery

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post #26 of 29 Old 05-19-2009, 09:30 PM
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Anyone care to comment on what to look for in a used hgs? Any suggestions on a good way to test a sub?
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post #27 of 29 Old 05-20-2009, 01:09 PM
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I would only buy one that has recently had the amp replaced, it seems like that's all you hear about with the HGS subs. My HGS 10 needs an amp and I have yet to fix it.
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post #28 of 29 Old 05-20-2009, 08:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by humble_t View Post

Anyone care to comment on what to look for in a used hgs? Any suggestions on a good way to test a sub?

Frequency sweep is the best way, played from a PC or laptop.
Use the 20-200Hz sweep, it the volume suddenly changes
or it starts to make strange/scratching noises or
starts to make a motorboat like sound then it probably is bad.
http://www.burninwave.com/#lowsweep

Warning: Running the sweep at high volumes (>90db SPL) can cause
a marginal amp to blow. The risk increases with the age of the sub.

I would avoid anything older than the HGS MKII which have upgraded amps.
The test is quick and dirty to shake down really bad problems but
is not 100% conclusive.
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post #29 of 29 Old 05-21-2009, 03:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tong Chia View Post

Frequency sweep is the best way, played from a PC or laptop.
Use the 20-200Hz sweep, it the volume suddenly changes
or it starts to make strange/scratching noises or
starts to make a motorboat like sound then it probably is bad.
http://www.burninwave.com/#lowsweep

Thanks for this!
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