BIC Acoustech H200 Subwoofer (AKA PL-200) - Page 48 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1411 of 1428 Old 12-01-2014, 09:09 PM
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Hey everyone this is my first post. After a few days of reading through posts I have decided to purchase my first home theatre sub the PL-200.

I do need some help from some knowledgable members. I will be using this to replace my passive htib sub.

I have heard that I can use the high level inputs with the speaker wire that used to be in the htib sub. Is this what I need to do? Do I just pick a left or right side and go to positive/negative?

I will be upgrading the receiver and other speakers but for now I was hoping to enjoy it. I have a call in to BIC technical as well but the guy was busy today.
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post #1412 of 1428 Old 12-09-2014, 06:27 AM
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Just an update, I got my PL-200 yesterday! BIC technician never returned a single call from yesterday and the main office didn't seem to understand how I was trying to hook up the sub to the HTIB receiver. I did get some really helpful advice from the forums and from Crutchfield. They are always knowledgable. All I needed to do was take the wiring from the passive sub and place it the left side of the positive/negative ports on the high level in of the PL-200.

I only have the sub a little less than 3/4 of the way up. Playing at low volumes to get it broken in. Worlds better than the HTIB sub rated for around 250 watts. It pales in size and sound compared to the PL-200!

This thing hits low and clean! Even watching a Netflix tv series it sounded much better. Actually sounds like a real home theatre.

I got a great deal on Black Friday of 259.00 shipped. If anyone is thinking about ditching their passive sub or even getting a sub for a system they are peicing together this is a great choice. I can't wait to see what it does after I let it break in!

I hope this helps someone in my situation.
Dub from GA likes this.
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post #1413 of 1428 Old 12-09-2014, 08:57 AM
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If you like one - you'll LOVE two! My AVR supports 2 Sub so I have 2 of these.

"..where you will never find a more wretched hive of scum and villainy."

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post #1414 of 1428 Old 12-10-2014, 09:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wryker View Post
If you like one - you'll LOVE two! My AVR supports 2 Sub so I have 2 of these.

I can imagine 2 would be amazing! The next thing I would like to do is piece a system together, then I can see picking up another one someday.
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post #1415 of 1428 Old 12-12-2014, 07:51 PM
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Anyone know where the best deal to pick one up is? I bought one on black friday for $259 shipped, but got stolen at a UPS sorting facility (How do you "lose" a big 52 lb box?!?!). So now I am back to square one.
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post #1416 of 1428 Old 12-27-2014, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arcticdc5 View Post
Anyone know where the best deal to pick one up is? I bought one on black friday for $259 shipped, but got stolen at a UPS sorting facility (How do you "lose" a big 52 lb box?!?!). So now I am back to square one.
I just got one for $279 shipped from their website, AcousticSoundDesign.com, there's a button on there to "make an offer", so if you make an offer of $250, they'll come back with $279 shipped. Got mine a couple of days ago, love it so far.
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post #1417 of 1428 Old 02-28-2015, 11:59 AM
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I purchased a pl-200 roughly 5 months ago. All of a sudden its acting like the amp just isn't putting out enough. If i put my hand on the enclosure i can feel a tiny bit of bass. It has never blown a fuse and no matter how much i turn up the gain it doesn't have enough to even move the speaker. Before it would literally shake the walls. Great product and was extremely happy with it till this happened last night. I have tried unplugging it and letting it sit thinking maybe something was overheating for some reason. No change. It still turns on and off automatically. Im just lost. Seems like the amps partially cooked???
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post #1418 of 1428 Old 03-06-2015, 10:02 PM
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I have a PL-200 on the way. I need to understand if the crossover in the sub can actually cut the level of the main speakers below the crossover frequency? Or does it only control the corner frequency of the sub itself and not affect the signal going to the main speakers? If the crossover actually cuts the level of the main speakers, what is the effect on the impedance the system stereo amplifier is working into? I'm running a vacuum tube stereo amplifier and am not sure it can drive a high impedance DC load. Thanks, Trumpit, Electrical Engineer
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post #1419 of 1428 Old 03-25-2015, 05:29 AM
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I'm picking one of these up today from a colleague at work to replace the KRK 10s I've been using lately, hope to se an improvement in the lows without losing too much musical quality. Any advice on getting the best sound besides room placement and calibration?


Thanks,

Current 6.1 Set Up:
Sammy 60" LED - Denon 4520CI - Adcom GFA 555 - Fat PS3 -Monster HTS 3500 MKII
Klipsch RF-62 - Klipsch RC-62 ll - Acoustech PL-200 Sub - Fluance AVBP2s
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post #1420 of 1428 Old 04-17-2015, 12:10 PM
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If anyone still has the original box, what are its dimensions? Did you get it in just that box, or with an extra shipping box over it?

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Originally Posted by iamroth View Post
he sub still turns off if I try to turn the system volume past -38db, especially when a low bass note hits.
Did you solve the problem in the end?

Last edited by shae; 04-17-2015 at 04:08 PM.
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post #1421 of 1428 Old 04-28-2015, 12:12 PM
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Bic Acoustech PL-200

after ready so much on the PL-200 sub and comparing it with other subs using this site, I went ahead and made my purchase through the AcousticSoundDesign website ( thanks to whoever posted it ). Mike Embers gave me an offer of $279 shipped. Can't wait to try it out.. Thanks
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post #1422 of 1428 Old 05-18-2015, 11:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iamroth View Post
This forum has helped me out many times with various issues, but today is the day that I cannot find a solution and am getting very frustrated.

I just put together a new home theater system with the following:

Receiver: Yamaha HTR-3066
Fronts: BIC DV64
Center: BIC DV62CLRS
Surrounds: Fluance XL7S
Sub: BIC Acoustech PL-200

That said, I just switched out subs because I wanted a little more bass than the Polk PSW505 had to offer. This is where my problems started...

Long story short, the sub plays fine at low volumes. But immediately shuts off or goes into protection at a certain level (which is not very loud at all...) I have to turn the system volume down and unplug the sub in order to get it to come back on. At first YPAO set the sub to -10db, so I figured that maybe the sub was not getting a strong enough signal from the receiver. I turned it to around +2db (at one point I even turned it up to +7), and set the knob to about 9 o'clock. Same thing happens when the sub gets to a certain volume. I have no idea how to fix this, but if someone could please I would be very grateful. BIC customer support is closed on the weekend



Also: I have the sub volume knob set to 10 o'clock (~30%), crossover knob set to max, speakers set to small, etc. I think I have it set up correctly, but who knows, I am still pretty new to this stuff.




UPDATE:

Well I ended up re-arranging my entire system/living room and also let the sub play at low volumes for a while in hopes that it just needed to loosen up :shrugs:

After rearrangement, I think that I have placed this sub a little bit better or it has loosened up, as it sounds better. Strangely enough, the PSW505 sounded fine in that old location.

Anyway, I also reran YPAO a few times after reading that I should shoot for +/- 0DB for the sub.

Anyway, the sub sounds much better, but the output/volume still is not there. This room is rather small, 12x12 ish, and the sub still turns off if I try to turn the system volume past -38db, especially when a low bass note hits.

Have I just reached the maximum output of this sub?

Anyone have any ideas?

I really would appreciate your thoughts and input.
Did you find any solution for your sub?
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post #1423 of 1428 Old 06-03-2015, 11:31 AM
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Hey er'rybody. Audiophile n00b here.

I was thinking about getting this sub to give my Pioneer FS52s a bass boost through a vintage Sansui receiver. But I'm having a hard time finding any info on the speaker level input/output quality in this device. Is the crossover adjustable? Will the 1000W power section in the sub be a problem if my speakers are rated for only 65W/channel? And more importantly, will the signal to the Pioneers degrade by adding that extra step into the signal path?

I'm pretty new to the whole hi-fi game and I really want to not have to buy more gear than I have to. but I'm afraid that there's no way to really pair the Sansui with the FS52s to get the most out of both components.

Any advice would be a huge help. Thanks!
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post #1424 of 1428 Old 07-16-2015, 12:56 PM
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Can anyone confirm the power led is lit RED even in the Off position, and not only when in standby in Auto?

Quote:
Originally Posted by robnix View Post
No, I just reattached mine to the terminal and it's been trouble free. Just open the back and reconnect them if loose.
How easily did the black wire slide back onto the narrower speaker terminal? When I reconnected it there was very little resistance. Makes me wonder if the electrical contact isn't good enough, despite the speaker producing sound. (Mine wasn't disconnected on arrival but I needed access to the power supply so I tried, without success, to disconnect the speaker from the amplifier.)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pop Zeus View Post
Is the crossover adjustable? Will the 1000W power section in the sub be a problem if my speakers are rated for only 65W/channel? And more importantly, will the signal to the Pioneers degrade by adding that extra step into the signal path?
Yes, you can see the crossover knob on the back. When the crossover switch is set to "In" the rotary knob controls the top frequency that gets to the sub.

The max watt rating of the sub has no bearing on external speakers, it's only the max that sub might use internally.

I'd think it shouldn't degrade the signal to the external speakers, but I don't really know.

Last edited by shae; 07-16-2015 at 02:30 PM.
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post #1425 of 1428 Old 07-17-2015, 06:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shae View Post
Can anyone confirm the power led is lit RED even in the Off position, and not only when in standby in Auto?

How easily did the black wire slide back onto the narrower speaker terminal? When I reconnected it there was very little resistance. Makes me wonder if the electrical contact isn't good enough, despite the speaker producing sound. (Mine wasn't disconnected on arrival but I needed access to the power supply so I tried, without success, to disconnect the speaker from the amplifier.)
I don't recall it being difficult to reattach. Haven't had any problems since.

Looky here!
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post #1426 of 1428 Old 07-17-2015, 06:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robnix View Post
I don't recall it being difficult to reattach. Haven't had any problems since.
So it just slid back on with barely any resistance? I couldn't even remove the red speaker wire (which is on a wider terminal), so it made me wonder.

Does your power indicator LED remain lit also in the Off position?
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post #1427 of 1428 Unread 07-19-2015, 12:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shae View Post
So it just slid back on with barely any resistance? I couldn't even remove the red speaker wire (which is on a wider terminal), so it made me wonder.

Does your power indicator LED remain lit also in the Off position?
It's been a long time, but I don't recall it being difficult to put back on at all. If you're concerned, crimp the terminal a bit with some pliers I guess.

I keep mine in standby, the LED is red until it revives a signal, then it turns green.

Looky here!
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post #1428 of 1428 Unread 07-19-2015, 12:53 PM
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Thanks. Crimping might be difficult without removing the speaker. It's difficult to reach in there, and I'd be afraid to break terminal block off the speaker. But then, there's the problem of disconnecting the wires from the amplifier.

The LED staying red in Standby makes sense, but in Off it was unexpected. I guess that's what it does, but I wonder if something might be wrong, because I had to work on the amplifier. Had to resolder one joint, and also a lot of the other joints look shoddy.
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