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post #271 of 4766 Old 03-15-2010, 12:59 PM
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I keep finding myself looking over at the amps input signals to see when the sound is coming from the speaker and when it is from the sub. The sub definitely outputs a full range of notes cleanely
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post #272 of 4766 Old 03-19-2010, 05:06 PM
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Could removing the s-converter limit headroom?

When playing what should be VERY loud sub scenes the sub itself does not seem to break a sweat but the sound never reaches the volume I am expecting.

For instance I played some terminator salvation and the gas station explosion was not very loud, some of the chase after it definetly flapped my pants more than I have experienced but it sounded like the sub had more to give but just wasn't getting to give it.

The front of the amp was pretty warm to the touch after one scene but I wonder if my AVR just can't feed enough signal.

avr is onkyo 805 set at 0dB, reckhorn b-1 set at 10 o'clock and ep2500 input sensitivity set to max
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post #273 of 4766 Old 03-19-2010, 07:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goonstopher View Post

Could removing the s-converter limit headroom?

When playing what should be VERY loud sub scenes the sub itself does not seem to break a sweat but the sound never reaches the volume I am expecting.

For instance I played some terminator salvation and the gas station explosion was not very loud, some of the chase after it definetly flapped my pants more than I have experienced but it sounded like the sub had more to give but just wasn't getting to give it.

The front of the amp was pretty warm to the touch after one scene but I wonder if my AVR just can't feed enough signal.

avr is onkyo 805 set at 0dB, reckhorn b-1 set at 10 o'clock and ep2500 input sensitivity set to max


How long is the cable (and which cable are you useing RCA or XLR) from onkyo 805 LFE to ep2500. For increase input LFE signal to ep2500 you should to use MACKIE 402-VLZ3 and then your input sensitivity on ep2500 would not be a problem.

http://www.mackie.com/products/402vlz3/index.html
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post #274 of 4766 Old 03-19-2010, 07:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZivkoF View Post

How long is the cable (and which cable are you useing RCA or XLR) from onkyo 805 LFE to ep2500. For increase input LFE signal to ep2500 you should to use MACKIE 402-VLZ3 and then your input sensitivity on ep2500 would not be a problem.

http://www.mackie.com/products/402vlz3/index.html

The samson s-converter introduced a white noise/hiss because it increased the ground floor noise too much. I just worry another similar product will do the same.

I have a 3 foot rca into the as-eq1 then a 1.5 foot rca from that to the reckhorn b-1 then another 1.5 foot out to the ep2500 with a 1/4 adapter
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post #275 of 4766 Old 03-20-2010, 05:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goonstopher View Post

The samson s-converter introduced a white noise/hiss because it increased the ground floor noise too much. I just worry another similar product will do the same.

I have a 3 foot rca into the as-eq1 then a 1.5 foot rca from that to the reckhorn b-1 then another 1.5 foot out to the ep2500 with a 1/4 adapter


The lenght of the cable is not the problem then just set the reckhorn b-1 at 12 o'clock !
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post #276 of 4766 Old 03-20-2010, 09:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZivkoF View Post

The lenght of the cable is not the problem then just set the reckhorn b-1 at 12 o'clock !

Maybe my concern (I hate to say problem because it does not seem bad enough to be a problem yet) is better explained like this - Normal volume = bass appropriate level, high volume - bass appropriate level, very high volume - amp starts lagging behind.

I love the way the sub sounds with music and with movies when I am not playing them around reference. Maybe I am just being paranoid because I am aware that I took the s-converter out of the chain (I have been known to do things like that ha)
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post #277 of 4766 Old 03-20-2010, 01:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goonstopher View Post

Maybe my concern (I hate to say problem because it does not seem bad enough to be a problem yet) is better explained like this - Normal volume = bass appropriate level, high volume - bass appropriate level, very high volume - amp starts lagging behind.

I love the way the sub sounds with music and with movies when I am not playing them around reference. Maybe I am just being paranoid because I am aware that I took the s-converter out of the chain (I have been known to do things like that ha)

I think that the problem is ep2500 at the high volume, you get what you paid, ep2500 is not bad ampl but is not the best even, the Captivator is in much, much higher class than ep2500 you should borrow from any of your friends any other ampl and try it or any new D-ampl!
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post #278 of 4766 Old 03-20-2010, 02:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZivkoF View Post

I think that the problem is ep2500 at the high volume, you get what you paid, ep2500 is not bad ampl but is not the best even, the Captivator is in much, much higher class than ep2500 you should borrow from any of your friends any other ampl and try it or any new D-ampl!

+1

I have dual Captivators being driven by a single Crest CC4000. I run a Speakon cable from each amp channel to the Captivators with no voltage or hum issues. The amp was $750 so the Captivator plus amp makes the total per Captivator cost $1,375 and worth every penny of it.

HToM

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post #279 of 4766 Old 03-22-2010, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goonstopher View Post

Could removing the s-converter limit headroom?

When playing what should be VERY loud sub scenes the sub itself does not seem to break a sweat but the sound never reaches the volume I am expecting.

For instance I played some terminator salvation and the gas station explosion was not very loud, some of the chase after it definetly flapped my pants more than I have experienced but it sounded like the sub had more to give but just wasn't getting to give it.

The front of the amp was pretty warm to the touch after one scene but I wonder if my AVR just can't feed enough signal.

avr is onkyo 805 set at 0dB, reckhorn b-1 set at 10 o'clock and ep2500 input sensitivity set to max

I found this from tony123. Maybe you can look at the your settings.
Quote:
I assumed that all the pin positions on the EP4000 were in the off position to the left! When, in fact, the low pass filter is opposite...it's default position is ON!!! I was running with a filter.


Ernie
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post #280 of 4766 Old 03-22-2010, 03:18 PM
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I am thinking of getting marathon audio amps with selectable input sensitivity
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post #281 of 4766 Old 03-22-2010, 10:48 PM
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I have gotten to do some more listening with some bass heavy movies.

Here are some rambling thoughts...

I would compare it with the PB13 ultra with better sound quality with music. As far as raw output I think the second will finally satisfy my insane wildest bass dreams. I like to listen close to reference with the sub running pretty hot and the captivator holds up just fine but a second will make it have just a bit more ease at the highest levels of the highest peaks so that I don't push the sub TOO hard (this is just me being careful and paranoid, the sub hasn't given me any reason to think it is being pushed too hard). It has handled every movie with reference level bass just fine and I have only been able to get the PR moving once during star wars which also got some air coming out of the port but no chuffing or distortion. This sub has HEAVY mid bass impact. Definitely a chair shaker and pant flapper. I had shorts on while sitting down so they were pressed to the chair and I still felt them vibrate. I LOVE tactile impact so to me this is very important. The lack of this is why I did not like the Epik dynasty and while, until now, the pb13 ultra was my reference sub. As I have stated it is very musical IMO the sub definitely can stop on a dime while going up and down the scale.
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post #282 of 4766 Old 03-23-2010, 12:30 AM
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goonstopher,

How many 180's are you going to do? You have been all over the place when reviewing subs.
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post #283 of 4766 Old 03-23-2010, 01:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gnocchi View Post

goonstopher,

How many 180's are you going to do? You have been all over the place when reviewing subs.

I have?

I have only said good things about the captivator BESIDES my hum issue.

Before that the PB13 was my favorite and the dynasty was effortless and blended well but lacked impact. All my reviews will fit that pattern
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post #284 of 4766 Old 03-27-2010, 06:20 AM
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Came across this and thought how would this passive radiator work with the captivator?

Would it be better or the same as the current radiator.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=293-684
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post #285 of 4766 Old 03-27-2010, 11:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bodhisafa View Post

Came across this and thought how would this passive radiator work with the captivator?

Would it be better or the same as the current radiator.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=293-684

I highly doubt it because most PR's are tuned to extend the frequency depth while the 6th order bandpass design of the captivator actually uses the pr to extend the upper frequency range and handles the higher end.

The sub definitely is the most musical and clean I have had. The massive woofer of the dynasty may have topped it in pure output and subsonic frequencies but it has the punch an sq I was craving while still being able to play most material at reference level which is no easy task.

Basically I am saying, Jeff is onl waiting on the pr because there are few if any commercial options he can turn to and also that if you can wait then it definitely is worth it if you want top sq that is no slouch in spl. Once my second one comes I am sure full reference at all frequencies will be playing with a cleanliness that will finally satisfy 100% of my bass desires, hope the others waiting get that feeling as well... and soon.
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post #286 of 4766 Old 03-29-2010, 06:16 PM
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that PR is way too deep. You need a shallow basket-less PR.

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post #287 of 4766 Old 03-29-2010, 10:42 PM
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Goonstopher,

I'm not exactly tracking your comments well. I would expect a EP2500 (measured at 2K watts @ 4ohms bridged) to drive the captivator in your room. Have you done any measurements in your room? This could explain the inconsistencies you're experiencing. How are you quantifying the amp is lagging behind at reference levels?
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post #288 of 4766 Old 11-12-2010, 12:18 PM
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The all new 2011 Captivator is a bass reflex design with a 18" driver that is 6db more sensitive, double the power handling and the same cost!
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post #289 of 4766 Old 11-12-2010, 01:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Permanian View Post

The all new 2011 Captivator is a bass reflex design with a 18" driver that is 6db more sensitive, double the power handling and the same cost!

Wow, that sounds interesting.

HToM

"Well, la di fricken da."!
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post #290 of 4766 Old 11-12-2010, 01:26 PM
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Also, the previous models can be upgraded however it does take a little wood working. You have to remove the passive radiator, remove the driver, remove the inner baffle where the 12" driver was mounted and then install the new 18" driver.
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post #291 of 4766 Old 11-12-2010, 01:43 PM
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You have to love the flexibility of JTR products, what a dramatic change, good for you Jeff
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post #292 of 4766 Old 11-12-2010, 02:18 PM
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Just curious... for those of us waiting for Captivators, are we getting 2011 models or still on the 2010 platform?

Good..... Bad..... I'm the guy with the gun.
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post #293 of 4766 Old 11-12-2010, 02:22 PM
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2011s
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post #294 of 4766 Old 11-12-2010, 06:36 PM
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Man the new Cap sounds like it might just be the sweet spot! I know 10hz would be the best but I think I could live with it being a beast down to 15hz Jeff will the cabinet be the same as the 2010 with the woodworking mentioned in post #290 already done? Where would it need to be high passed at 15hz or can it go a little lower?
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post #295 of 4766 Old 11-12-2010, 07:07 PM
 
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If this new design contains one big 18" woofer for the same price I am definitely interested. When is this new design going to be released?
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post #296 of 4766 Old 11-12-2010, 07:46 PM
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I've heard enough about it. I'm ordering one.
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post #297 of 4766 Old 11-12-2010, 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gpmbc View Post

Man the new Cap sounds like it might just be the sweet spot! I know 10hz would be the best but I think I could live with it being a beast down to 15hz Jeff will the cabinet be the same as the 2010 with the woodworking mentioned in post #290 already done? Where would it need to be high passed at 15hz or can it go a little lower?

The 2011 appears the same as the previous model with the new cosmetic changes to match the rest of the 2011 line up (rounded over corners, flatter black and light texture). Recommended high pass at 14hz.

Quote:
Originally Posted by diamonddelts View Post

If this new design contains one big 18" woofer for the same price I am definitely interested. When is this new design going to be released?

The first batch will be in stock and ready to ship 11/29.
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post #298 of 4766 Old 11-12-2010, 07:51 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Permanian View Post

The 2011 appears the same as the previous model. Recomended high pass at 14hz.



The first batch will be in stock and ready to ship 11/29.

So what will be the final price including shipping for one?
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post #299 of 4766 Old 11-12-2010, 08:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diamonddelts View Post

So what will be the final price including shipping for one?

Manufacturer direct is $999 then minus sales and/or discounts. Average shipping cost is around $80. Shoot me an email for an exact quote.
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post #300 of 4766 Old 11-13-2010, 07:29 AM
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Is the new Cap getting that same beastly 68 pound 18" driver that goes into the Orbit Shifter?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19097480

(Drool)
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