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post #4771 of 4793 Old 01-23-2015, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by APRisti View Post
Hey guys, just got a pre-loved passive JTR Cap 2400 and previous owner said it was wired at 8 ohms and i'm looking for an amplifier. From what I've gathered so far, the iNuke nu3000 and ep4000 is enough for the 2400 but would like to ask if maybe there are other newer options out there.

By the way , I will be running the Cap together with my old sub which is a SVS PC13-ultra

Thanks and looking forward to contributing more here in the forums
Did you get the one that was on Ebay a couple days ago?


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post #4772 of 4793 Old 01-24-2015, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by APRisti View Post
Thanks AJ

I'm planning to upgrade my avr to a newer model later this year, would some of the new AVR's have the sub dsp feature or do you suggest I buy an external one and hook it up with either the crown xls or ep4000

Thanks !

I can't speak for using the AVR's built in Dsp but it costs less than $100 to buy a Behringer MIC2200 which has two channels/ three bands of parametric EQ, also takes care of the High pass filter and is what I use when boosting the signal and works a hell of a lot better than my Rotel preamp for this purpose, Someone else may chime in on the merits of your AVR but I believe the MIC2200 does a great job. Do you have an omnimic to measure frequency response? Have you got the ability to measure frequency response? I just moved house and had little option with sub placement. To give an example, prior to applying EQ to the Caps the bass was lacking refinement it was very boomy in the room I have. After tailoring the frequency response using a Dayton V2 omnimic with my laptop and adjusting the PEQ settings to achieve the flattest line possible I now have tonnes of clean, plant flapping output. Prior to EQ I had a peak of around +15-25dB between the 45-70Hz frequency range and a null around the 70-100Hz range which is now within +5dB all the way between 15-100Hz after EQ applied. In real terms the difference is night and day and as great as the Cap is (like all subs) without tailoring the EQ properly it's performance won't be optimal.
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Klipsch: KLF-30, KLF C-7, KG 5.5, KG 4.2 Power&Preamp: Elektra Theatron, Rotel RSP 1570
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post #4773 of 4793 Old 01-26-2015, 09:22 PM
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not sure but i did get my JTR caps on the bay.

Thanks for your replies, i thin i might be going with the ep4000 and pairing it with the mic2200
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post #4774 of 4793 Old 01-26-2015, 11:15 PM
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Have you got dual Caps? I thought you had a single plus an SVS? I'm not sure how the SVS will go paired with the Cap as I fear the SVS will be left behind in performance capability and may struggle to make both work in harmony? I'm not even sure the best way to go about EQ (maybe someone else has a better suggestion than the one I'm about to give)? Normally you would EQ both subs at the same time but with two different subs of differing performance capabilities well it's not something I've done before. Not saying it can't be done but........... Maybe best to EQ the Cap, have a listen see what you think (write down what the settings are) then try and EQ with the SVS at the same time. If you don't think it works then you've got your EQ done for the single Cap already and a benchmark as to what the bass sounds like with the just the Cap prior to inclusion of the SVS. What are you using to measure frequency response?

Klipsch: KLF-30, KLF C-7, KG 5.5, KG 4.2 Power&Preamp: Elektra Theatron, Rotel RSP 1570
Subs: Dual Passive JTR 2400 Captivators
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post #4775 of 4793 Old 01-27-2015, 09:00 PM
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Put the lesser sub near or closer to the MLP and level match the subwoofers. Try a few movies and if their is a problem, it will become obvious.
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post #4776 of 4793 Old 01-27-2015, 11:08 PM
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Yes just 1 Cap. In light of the SVS getting left behind by the Cap, I might just move the SVS to another room and buy another Cap if i feel that the bass is lacking.

My dedicated room is just around 320 square feet , do you think 1 cap is enough or should i just go with 2 from the get go

My buddy will be helping me with the frequency response so i'm not too what he's using.

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Have you got dual Caps? I thought you had a single plus an SVS? I'm not sure how the SVS will go paired with the Cap as I fear the SVS will be left behind in performance capability and may struggle to make both work in harmony? I'm not even sure the best way to go about EQ (maybe someone else has a better suggestion than the one I'm about to give)? Normally you would EQ both subs at the same time but with two different subs of differing performance capabilities well it's not something I've done before. Not saying it can't be done but........... Maybe best to EQ the Cap, have a listen see what you think (write down what the settings are) then try and EQ with the SVS at the same time. If you don't think it works then you've got your EQ done for the single Cap already and a benchmark as to what the bass sounds like with the just the Cap prior to inclusion of the SVS. What are you using to measure frequency response?
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post #4777 of 4793 Old 01-28-2015, 01:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AJ72 View Post
I can't speak for using the AVR's built in Dsp but it costs less than $100 to buy a Behringer MIC2200 which has two channels/ three bands of parametric EQ, also takes care of the High pass filter and is what I use when boosting the signal and works a hell of a lot better than my Rotel preamp for this purpose, Someone else may chime in on the merits of your AVR but I believe the MIC2200 does a great job. Do you have an omnimic to measure frequency response? Have you got the ability to measure frequency response? I just moved house and had little option with sub placement. To give an example, prior to applying EQ to the Caps the bass was lacking refinement it was very boomy in the room I have. After tailoring the frequency response using a Dayton V2 omnimic with my laptop and adjusting the PEQ settings to achieve the flattest line possible I now have tonnes of clean, plant flapping output. Prior to EQ I had a peak of around +15-25dB between the 45-70Hz frequency range and a null around the 70-100Hz range which is now within +5dB all the way between 15-100Hz after EQ applied. In real terms the difference is night and day and as great as the Cap is (like all subs) without tailoring the EQ properly it's performance won't be optimal.

I love reading this! Man you've come a long way!
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post #4778 of 4793 Old 01-28-2015, 01:21 AM
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If your AVR has two subwoofer outputs, try putting the SVS firing directly into the back of your chair off subwoofer 2 output. It won't have to work even half as hard to put out the same output as it would at the front of the room, and nearfield subs are pretty slick for getting that nice tactile bass feel. Then put your captivator on subwoofer 1 output where it measures best in the room, before EQ, based on REW or omnimic sweeps. When you get them situated run your AVR's auto EQ, and it'll help set distances, SPL levels, and make an attempt at doing EQ for you. This should work pretty well with your two mismatched subs, since the SVS won't have to be working nearly as hard.

"Without subs it's just background music - with subs it's the main event!"
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post #4779 of 4793 Old 01-28-2015, 10:14 AM
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Thanks Jonathan! Looks like I unintentionally coined a new phrase "plant flapping output". Those Caps can move some serious air!

Klipsch: KLF-30, KLF C-7, KG 5.5, KG 4.2 Power&Preamp: Elektra Theatron, Rotel RSP 1570
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post #4780 of 4793 Old 01-28-2015, 04:33 PM
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Hey guys. On these Caps, do they need to be on the front wall firing at you?
More so if you had 2, could one be in the front a couple feet from the left corner, and a 2nd on the right wall but a couple feet from the front wall?
(I dont have room for a sub on the right side of the front wall without moving my equiptment rack futher from the TV and getting a 30 foot HDMI)
This is where I found I had the best sound with my previous sealed subs. I have been eye-balling these caps, and was curious if the port needs to be point at the Listening position.


SOUND: Marantz AV-7702 Pre/Pro, McIntosh MC1706 Amp,
Klipsch RF7-II's, Klipsch RC64-II (Soon), Klipsch RS62-II (Soon), (2) XS15se subs.

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post #4781 of 4793 Old 01-28-2015, 05:21 PM
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post #4782 of 4793 Old Yesterday, 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Red99 View Post
Hey guys. On these Caps, do they need to be on the front wall firing at you?
More so if you had 2, could one be in the front a couple feet from the left corner, and a 2nd on the right wall but a couple feet from the front wall?
(I dont have room for a sub on the right side of the front wall without moving my equiptment rack futher from the TV and getting a 30 foot HDMI)
This is where I found I had the best sound with my previous sealed subs. I have been eye-balling these caps, and was curious if the port needs to be point at the Listening position.
No they dont need to be firing front at you but you would miss some of the beauty of the air swirling around the room if you didn't. It's a nice effect. I would think that if you had success before with placement in a certain spot and could do it again then it's a good start. I tried facing the wall away from listening position due to placement constraints but have now got it firing forward again. I just prefer that air swirl and found that it was missing when not firing forward. I also just didn't like the feng shui of one forward one left. Not saying it affected performance though.
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post #4783 of 4793 Old Yesterday, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by AJ72 View Post
No they dont need to be firing front at you but you would miss some of the beauty of the air swirling around the room if you didn't. It's a nice effect. I would think that if you had success before with placement in a certain spot and could do it again then it's a good start. I tried facing the wall away from listening position due to placement constraints but have now got it firing forward again. I just prefer that air swirl and found that it was missing when not firing forward. I also just didn't like the feng shui of one forward one left. Not saying it affected performance though.

How close do you have to be at the sub to feel the air? I sit about 10 feet from the subs. Is there air coming out of the port, which is on the bottom? I'm not sure if I would feel anything anyway! Because I have a power reclining sofa that sits a little higher than a normal sofa, And when reclined my feet would be off the ground. Trade offs to sit comfortable and lazy. lol


SOUND: Marantz AV-7702 Pre/Pro, McIntosh MC1706 Amp,
Klipsch RF7-II's, Klipsch RC64-II (Soon), Klipsch RS62-II (Soon), (2) XS15se subs.

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post #4784 of 4793 Old Yesterday, 01:05 PM
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How close do you have to be at the sub to feel the air? I sit about 10 feet from the subs. Is there air coming out of the port, which is on the bottom? I'm not sure if I would feel anything anyway! Because I have a power reclining sofa that sits a little higher than a normal sofa, And when reclined my feet would be off the ground. Trade offs to sit comfortable and lazy. lol
Or you can turn the caps upside down so the ports are on top. This way you can have a fan blowing you in the face.
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post #4785 of 4793 Old Yesterday, 01:57 PM
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I get a significant amount of air pushed my way when my Rythmik's start pumping and I sit almost 12 ft away. I can only imagine what kind of turbulence a Cap would produce.

Receiver - Denon 4311CI
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post #4786 of 4793 Old Today, 04:27 AM
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How close do you have to be at the sub to feel the air? I sit about 10 feet from the subs. Is there air coming out of the port, which is on the bottom? I'm not sure if I would feel anything anyway! Because I have a power reclining sofa that sits a little higher than a normal sofa, And when reclined my feet would be off the ground. Trade offs to sit comfortable and lazy. lol
Your slightly elevated sofa will be no problem at all. The air swirls around the whole room kind of like a zephyr or slight breeze. I sit about 12 feet from my subs and had the Washington Monument Scene from Olympus Has Fallen on tonight. I noticed the rug in front of one of the Caps lifting off the ground. Cool! Then follows a gentle swirling of air kind of making you feel the moment of destruction that has just occurred on screen as the monument crashes to the ground. Relax and sit as comfortably as you like knowing that your seating won't be an issue.

Klipsch: KLF-30, KLF C-7, KG 5.5, KG 4.2 Power&Preamp: Elektra Theatron, Rotel RSP 1570
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post #4787 of 4793 Old Today, 10:33 AM
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Never felt any air... or even close to it. odd
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post #4788 of 4793 Old Today, 10:43 AM
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Never felt any air... or even close to it. odd

What sub? If it is the captivator you are talking about, you need turn that bad boy up!
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post #4789 of 4793 Old Today, 02:28 PM
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Never felt any air... or even close to it. odd

Put a scene like the Washington Monument scene from Olympus Has Fallen on. Turn it up. You should notice some serious serious driver excursion during this scene accompanied by a gentle swirling of the air. The scene itself should at least be impressive as it's centred around the 18-22Hz range, right in the Caps sweet spot and just above Port tune, if not then you may want to recheck your EQ settings. What are you using for sub EQ?

Klipsch: KLF-30, KLF C-7, KG 5.5, KG 4.2 Power&Preamp: Elektra Theatron, Rotel RSP 1570
Subs: Dual Passive JTR 2400 Captivators
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post #4790 of 4793 Unread Today, 03:44 PM
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Actually that scene digs way deeper than 18hz. It is an ULF monster digging down to 1hz!
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post #4791 of 4793 Unread Today, 04:45 PM
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HPF, and exceptionally strong subwoofer motor, FTW!

"Without subs it's just background music - with subs it's the main event!"
Archaea's Theatre Room
2011 KC Sub Shootout
2012 KC Blind Sub Shootout
My Subwoofer Recommendations by Pricepoint
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post #4792 of 4793 Unread Today, 07:57 PM
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SOUND: Marantz AV-7702 Pre/Pro, McIntosh MC1706 Amp,
Klipsch RF7-II's, Klipsch RC64-II (Soon), Klipsch RS62-II (Soon), (2) XS15se subs.

VIDEO:
Samsung PN64F8500 Plasma TV, Oppo 103D Blue Ray Player
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post #4793 of 4793 Unread Today, 09:45 PM
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Look familiar Jonathan? What about the Cap being blown across the room.

Klipsch: KLF-30, KLF C-7, KG 5.5, KG 4.2 Power&Preamp: Elektra Theatron, Rotel RSP 1570
Subs: Dual Passive JTR 2400 Captivators
Power Amps: Behringer EP 4000, Crown XLS 5000
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