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post #5041 of 5054 Old 02-12-2017, 08:33 PM
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I've sent several messages to Jeff... First was my mock-up of it on the 22.5" side, the second was correction with the next one on the 20.5" side... I hope he doesn't think I'm crazy with all this email I've been sending him.

I tried to explain it to him and then he sent me the pics. I respect the design and work he has put into it thus far but, I'll have to defer to everything I've recently brought to his attention via email/this thread.
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post #5042 of 5054 Old 02-12-2017, 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by jrittz View Post
Honestly, I almost made a fairly large mistake as well...

The driver side should be on the top, not on the side. It should be on the 20.5" face. This way you can lay it on its side and get the shortest height. Putting it on the 22.5" side would still restrict the ultimate versatility.

This is the corrected mock-up.

What I'd really like is a Cap 4000ULF that fits behind my sofa!


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post #5043 of 5054 Old 02-13-2017, 12:37 PM
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Ok so I spoke with Jeff and he explained to me that having the drivers face the MLP/center of the room would cause issues with room mode and cause nulls in the mid bass area. He explained everything to me well enough where I am comfortable with getting then as designed (end firing).


So as much as my design idea made sense to me, it doesn't make sense from a scientific mumbo jumbo stand-point.
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post #5044 of 5054 Old 02-13-2017, 06:06 PM
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What would two JTR 2400's require as far as power is concerned? I ran one dedicated 110v 20amp circuit to my subwoofer locations. Will this be enough? Does anybody know what the power requirement of one of these 2400W RMS amplifiers takes?

Is this the page to the amplifier used for this particular model? http://www.speakerpower.net/store/p27/SP1-2400-HT.html

If it is, it's 8A requirement which means, luckily I ran a 20amp (12ga.) circuit because a 15amp circuit may have worked but would have been at the upper limit.
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post #5045 of 5054 Old 02-13-2017, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by jrittz View Post
What would two JTR 2400's require as far as power is concerned? I ran one dedicated 110v 20amp circuit to my subwoofer locations. Will this be enough? Does anybody know what the power requirement of one of these 2400W RMS amplifiers takes?

Is this the page to the amplifier used for this particular model? http://www.speakerpower.net/store/p27/SP1-2400-HT.html

If it is, it's 8A requirement which means, luckily I ran a 20amp (12ga.) circuit because a 15amp circuit may have worked but would have been at the upper limit.
I spoke to Jeff as well as Speaker power about this exact thing this past week regarding my S-1 which uses the same amp. Jeff stated an average of 10amps, where speakerpower said up to 27amp peak. I'm getting an electrician here tomorrow for a solution as all three outlets i have run off the same 15amp breaker.
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post #5046 of 5054 Old 02-13-2017, 07:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indebtbassfreak View Post
I spoke to Jeff as well as Speaker power about this exact thing this past week regarding my S-1 which uses the same amp. Jeff stated an average of 10amps, where speakerpower said up to 27amp peak. I'm getting an electrician here tomorrow for a solution as all three outlets i have run off the same 15amp breaker.
27a? That has to be very short term... that would exceed anybody's outlets if it was anything other than quick peaks. 10a sounds better, the back of the amp has a screen printed 8A next to the power outlet... so even if it is 10a, I'm lucky to have nothing but 4 outlets tied to one 20a circuit exclusively for subs.

Good luck, hope that doesn't run too much or take too much demo to get the correct circuit(s) run.

Your situation is likely to be true for most people. I think the standard not too long ago was 14ga. 15a outlets.
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post #5047 of 5054 Old 02-13-2017, 07:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrittz View Post
27a? That has to be very short term... that would exceed anybody's outlets if it was anything other than quick peaks. 10a sounds better, the back of the amp has a screen printed 8A next to the power outlet... so even if it is 10a, I'm lucky to have nothing but 4 outlets tied to one 20a circuit exclusively for subs.

Good luck, hope that doesn't run too much or take too much demo to get the correct circuit(s) run.

Your situation is likely to be true for most people. I think the standard not too long ago was 14ga. 15a outlets.
Yes very short term peak draw. Not even sure if the Speakerpower amps have caps to deal with those peak demands or moments, my guess would be yes. The stored energy in the caps would reduce draw on the outlet i think.

Last edited by indebtbassfreak; 02-13-2017 at 09:31 PM.
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post #5048 of 5054 Old 02-14-2017, 01:15 AM
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Yes very short term peak draw. Not even sure if the Speakerpower amps have caps to deal with those peak demands or moments, my guess would be yes. The stored energy in the caps would reduce draw on the outlet i think.
He'll find out the first time he fires them up and the lights go out, then he gets that random call from the electric company asking if he needs assistance.

Everyone calls the electric company when power goes out, but when they start calling, then you know you messed up.
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post #5049 of 5054 Old 02-14-2017, 02:58 AM
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He'll find out the first time he fires them up and the lights go out, then he gets that random call from the electric company asking if he needs assistance.

Everyone calls the electric company when power goes out, but when they start calling, then you know you messed up.
Whach you talking about Willis?
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post #5050 of 5054 Old 02-14-2017, 06:45 AM
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Whach you talking about Willis?
Just saying, 1.21 gigawatts of subwoofer might not play nice with that 15amp breaker.
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post #5051 of 5054 Old 03-23-2017, 03:00 PM
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Here is a quote I found that explains the power draw better for those with questions.......


I just went to my breaker panel and I have 20 amp rated breakers but all of the outlets are 15 amp style. I am going to go pull one of the outlets and see if I have 12 gauge wire just to verify. So assuming I have 20 amp in the room, I should be ok with 2 1400s?

The only thing you have to worry about is what else is on the circuit being used. Also, it depends how hard you are pushing the amps. But I wouldn't worry about it. Tell your wife or girlfriend not to be using the hair dryer while you are watching a movie.

Im installing a 20 amp dedicated circuit for 2 - 2400 watt subs just in case. But for now I am running them on 15 amp circuit. Seems to be working so far but I just got the subs. But I don't listed at ear bleeding levels. Subs are not a constant load. And a 15 amp breaker will handle quite a bit for a short burst. Funk Audio has a sub (18.2) 9600 watts (20k peak) that will run on a 20 amp breaker. Most of these D class amps are very efficient. Now if you was running a Class A/B amp, that might be a different story.

Quote from Funk Audio: T Electrical systems are rated at full duty cycle, and for anything less than 100% duty cycle will allow up to 10 times the rated current (for very short bursts). As I am sure you know, audio signals are never 100% duty cycle sine waves, so the amp can draw up to 4800 watts continuous from the wall, and put out nearly as much fully continuous, and much higher semi-continuous peaks, even for a few seconds at a time. Normal material and even tone bursts are quite low actual duty cycle, even a single 20A "220V" circuit will power two amps (power level two) to full power with most material. NOTE: Nathans Power Level 2 amps are 9600 watts each. So that is about 20k watts off a 20A breaker.

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post #5052 of 5054 Old 03-23-2017, 03:21 PM
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Quote from Funk Audio: T Electrical systems are rated at full duty cycle, and for anything less than 100% duty cycle will allow up to 10 times the rated current (for very short bursts).

Here's a chart and article about power consumption. I think a lot of people would be surprised to know you can run 80 amps of current through a 20 amp breaker for a few seconds or more. The only time you would run into issues, is with loud "music" like dubstep that is basically variable sine waves. Then, the amp is constantly drawing massive amounts of juice and that will pop breakers.


Understanding Power Consumption

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post #5053 of 5054 Old 03-24-2017, 09:42 PM
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I will be ordering dual Captivator 1400s soon. The dimensions, installed upright, will fit (a pair) behind my screen just right with space to spare. I really hope the 1400 does not get discontinued or its footprint get changed. Im worrying out loud lol sorry.

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post #5054 of 5054 Old 09-10-2017, 06:35 PM
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Yeah I did/do prefer the sub to be tall but not because it's my preference because it has the most versatility for anybody looking to buy this product.

I've attached my idea. In writing, I believe I described this mock-up. This allows those that have limited space to place it. It allows those that want to lay it down against any wall and have the driver / ports facing the room in really many scenarios. I think it gives the absolute most versatility. The way the original pics from Jeff, you really only have a small handful of options on where you can place this sub... especially in pairs or even quads.

Since I hate Thumbnails, I'm reinserting the pics for easier viewing. I'm also adding my own to help give some perspective.









I'm no genius with sketching but I hope you can see what I'm trying to say.
Howdy to all the JTR fans out there...

So I've just checked backed to look at the product offerings by Jeff on the JTR website... I see the whole site was revamped, very nice. But one thing I noticed which was a HUGE deal to me...
http://jtrspeakers.com/captivator-2400ulf-copy.html

Looks like Jeff went ahead and began making them like a tall 1400 and how I mocked it up in my pics back in February... I like that he began to do this, I think it gives the subs far more versatility.

Anyways, the subs are still beyond expectation, just wish I had them in the configuration he offers them in today.

Regards,
Jaime
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