Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread - Page 550 - AVS Forum
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post #16471 of 17016 Old 08-06-2014, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by JT78681 View Post
If your not listening at reference level and only running +4db hot you should be golden (unless you are getting port noise). Why miss out on that 12hz content if your happy with what you hear right now? The only way to satisfy your curiosity about 2 port mode is to try it out for yourself. How big is your room I forget?
Totally agree empirical experience is ultimately what's relevant, just trying to calibrate my expectations to better understand what I might be listening for when I do experiment.

I don't get much if any port noise, though I do get those delayed puffs of air out of the open port after serious ULF scenes, e.g. the helos in Lone Survivor. But that's perfectly normal.

I have an open floorplan space that's probably around 4800 cubic feet, so a lot of volume for the sub to pressurize.

The one additional thought I had on two-port versus one is that when the sub driver is moving 2 inches to send out some 14 hz content, almost by definition that seems like it should be temporarily impeding its ability to properly produce content a bit higher in the frequency spectrum. But I'm not knowledgeable enough to know whether my hunch is actually true in practice.

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post #16472 of 17016 Old 08-06-2014, 04:21 PM
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@janick 1. Sounds like you should be able to bump your sub trim another 2-3 dB in your avr sub trim setting with no issue. If it still lacks bass , you may need to adjust placement or phase.

I would leave the sub crossover disabled, especially if you ran YPAO in that configuration. I would not change the crossover on the sub without the need to do so determined by careful measurement with REW.

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post #16473 of 17016 Old 08-07-2014, 03:43 AM
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So I FINALLY got around to setting everything up this past weekend.

...

I re-ran the test two more times and in the end, the sub volume dial is at roughly 75% or (3/4 o'clock). This got me to -6.0dB. I then hooked up the Radioshack SPL and dialed in all the speakers to 73dB, with the center at 75dB. I then increased the subs level to -3.0 on the Yamaha software (leaving the volume dial at 3/4 o'clock). It also set the crossover to 100Hz. With that said, I then matched the physical crossover dial on the sub to 100Hz, instead of 120Hz. Is that correct? Or should I leave the sub dial maxed no matter what?

With those settings, I'm sitting at a listening level of -15dB or so on the receiver, which puts the volume at a proper theater level, IMO.

Does this setup or configuration sound right? I think I'm going to bump the sub up a bit more. Which way should I do so? Increase it through the Yamaha software, or should I increase the physical dial on the sub? In the room, you can hear the bass, but you don't feel it as much as you do when on the floor above!

Thank you!
jnick1,

You should be using the LFE input on the Rythmik, this allows the AVR to set the correct level and distance based on where you placed the mic in YPAO. Look at post 16,132 Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread and the write-up (Dialing-in subwoofer when using AVR_Rythmik PEQ3 amplifiers.doc) that AVS member laulau did for a friend. While this is written mainly for Audyssey setup, it would apply just as well for YPAO.

Which model of Yamaha do you have? My understanding of YPAO is that only the top end Yamaha unit eq the sub (crudely at 3 fixed frequencies with 1/3 octave adjustments). Other AVS members such as Bond007 who's familiar with Yamaha AVRs can advise more on this. So it's best to carry out a low frequency sweep (15Hz to 300Hz) using REW to see where YPAO is making a difference - if any. There is a PEQ available on the Rythmik plate amp, use it to cut the big peak bass frequency (based on REW measurement) and smooth out the bass. Remember not to boost nulls as this is asking for trouble.

The great thing about the MiniDSP is the ability to use 6 PEQ filters and easy integration with REW. Use the Room EQ fuction in REW and make a curve you like. Then export the settings to a text file, which can be directly read into the MiniDSP. You must have a bass measurement done by REW to play with this feature.

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Last edited by steveting99; 08-07-2014 at 03:49 AM. Reason: typo and additional clarification.
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post #16474 of 17016 Old 08-07-2014, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by steveting99 View Post
jnick1,

You should be using the LFE input on the Rythmik, this allows the AVR to set the correct level and distance based on where you placed the mic in YPAO. Look at post 16,132 Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread and the write-up (Dialing-in subwoofer when using AVR_Rythmik PEQ3 amplifiers.doc) that AVS member laulau did for a friend. While this is written mainly for Audyssey setup, it would apply just as well for YPAO. I've got my crossovers set to 80 and there seems to be no ill effects in that area:

[/IMG]

Which model of Yamaha do you have? My understanding of YPAO is that only the top end Yamaha unit eq the sub (crudely at 3 fixed frequencies with 1/3 octave adjustments). Other AVS members such as Bond007 who's familiar with Yamaha AVRs can advise more on this. So it's best to carry out a low frequency sweep (15Hz to 300Hz) using REW to see where YPAO is making a difference - if any. There is a PEQ available on the Rythmik plate amp, use it to cut the big peak bass frequency (based on REW measurement) and smooth out the bass. Remember not to boost nulls as this is asking for trouble.

The great thing about the MiniDSP is the ability to use 6 PEQ filters and easy integration with REW. Use the Room EQ fuction in REW and make a curve you like. Then export the settings to a text file, which can be directly read into the MiniDSP. You must have a bass measurement done by REW to play with this feature.
FWIW, it's my understanding the AVR would set the correct distance and level regardless of whether he uses the LFE IN or one of the LINE IN's - as long as he's got the crossover on the sub all the way up. The AVR will set it's crossover point where it detects the lower end of his speakers range to be (or where the user subsequently sets it), and will only send the signal below the crossover point to the subs. (I realize crossovers are not a brick wall which is why one would have the crossover knob turned all the way up) In my case I have to use the LINE INs as using the LFE input disables the phase and crossover knobs - (and I need to adjust the phase in my particular situation).
I'm crossed over at 80 (on the AVR, the sub crossover is at max) using the LINE inputs, and there doesn't seem to be any ill-effects:


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post #16475 of 17016 Old 08-07-2014, 10:44 AM
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I am using the LFE IN on the Rythmik LV12R. I'm using a Yamaha RX-V675.

Yamaha RX-V675 | Primus 363s fronts | Primus 163 rears | Primus 351 Center | Rythmik LV12R Sub
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post #16476 of 17016 Old 08-07-2014, 10:51 AM
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I am using the LFE IN on the Rythmik LV12R. I'm using a Yamaha RX-V675.
Hey man how are you liking the Infinity's?

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post #16477 of 17016 Old 08-07-2014, 11:44 AM
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Couldn't be happier! I was surprisingly shocked at their clarity. I'm sure you can get much better speakers for $$$, however these are fantastic.

When I lived with my parents, I set my dad up with Infinity 251, 143s and 163s. I thought that sounded good and was expecting a similar sound. However, these definitely sound much clearer and cleaner. We actually have a relative from Scotland over to visit and he wanted to check the system out. He said it's better than any Cinema he's been to. Of course it's all relative, but in a nutshell, I love em'!

Now I just want to fine tune the sub a bit more and I'll be a very happy camper!

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post #16478 of 17016 Old 08-07-2014, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by jnick1 View Post
Couldn't be happier! I was surprisingly shocked at their clarity. I'm sure you can get much better speakers for $$$, however these are fantastic.

When I lived with my parents, I set my dad up with Infinity 251, 143s and 163s. I thought that sounded good and was expecting a similar sound. However, these definitely sound much clearer and cleaner. We actually have a relative from Scotland over to visit and he wanted to check the system out. He said it's better than any Cinema he's been to. Of course it's all relative, but in a nutshell, I love em'!

Now I just want to fine tune the sub a bit more and I'll be a very happy camper!
For what they cost and the performance they offer they are really hard to beat. I have no desire to upgrade my speakers for a long time.

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post #16479 of 17016 Old 08-07-2014, 12:32 PM
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For what they cost and the performance they offer they are really hard to beat. I have no desire to upgrade my speakers for a long time.
Indeed...I'm extremely happy with the decision to go with these, and I got every one on sale to boot!

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post #16480 of 17016 Old 08-07-2014, 07:00 PM
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FWIW, it's my understanding the AVR would set the correct distance and level regardless of whether he uses the LFE IN or one of the LINE IN's - as long as he's got the crossover on the sub all the way up. The AVR will set it's crossover point where it detects the lower end of his speakers range to be (or where the user subsequently sets it), and will only send the signal below the crossover point to the subs. (I realize crossovers are not a brick wall which is why one would have the crossover knob turned all the way up) In my case I have to use the LINE INs as using the LFE input disables the phase and crossover knobs - (and I need to adjust the phase in my particular situation).
I'm crossed over at 80 (on the AVR, the sub crossover is at max) using the LINE inputs, and there doesn't seem to be any ill-effects:
Sean,

That's a great looking graph! Wonder how the waterfall / spectrograph looks like? Is this with the sub + the center channel only or left+right, left only or right only? Are you using multiple subs, room treatments and Audyssey XT32 to get that smooth response? How is the seat to seat variance like? Would have liked to see up to 300Hz to see at least an octave up above the crossover point. Based on your speaker specs and your graph, you can crossover from 50Hz up to 90Hz and have a smooth splice. Have you considered a low shelf filter with a rise of say 2 to 3dB per octave from say 100Hz down? Some like this based on the Fletcher-Munson loudness curves.

jnick1 has advised his sub being the LV12R. Using the LINE IN, the upper frequency is 100Hz.
As jnick1 is interested in a relatively high crossover (100Hz and up), he would be better off using the LFE IN (which he's confirmed in the following post). That's because using the LFE IN, the upper frequency is 300Hz. Refer to Rythimk's specs here: http://www.rythmikaudio.com/LV12R_specs.html

The quest for jnick1 (as well as for me) is to get a response similar to what you've got.

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post #16481 of 17016 Old 08-07-2014, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by steveting99 View Post
Sean,

That's a great looking graph! Wonder how the waterfall / spectrograph looks like? Is this with the sub + the center channel only or left+right, left only or right only? Are you using multiple subs, room treatments and Audyssey XT32 to get that smooth response? How is the seat to seat variance like? Would have liked to see up to 300Hz to see at least an octave up above the crossover point. Based on your speaker specs and your graph, you can crossover from 50Hz up to 90Hz and have a smooth splice. Have you considered a low shelf filter with a rise of say 2 to 3dB per octave from say 100Hz down? Some like this based on the Fletcher-Munson loudness curves.


jnick1 has advised his sub being the LV12R. Using the LINE IN, the upper frequency is 100Hz.
As jnick1 is interested in a relatively high crossover (100Hz and up), he would be better off using the LFE IN (which he's confirmed in the following post). That's because using the LFE IN, the upper frequency is 300Hz. Refer to Rythimk's specs here: http://www.rythmikaudio.com/LV12R_specs.html

The quest for jnick1 (as well as for me) is to get a response similar to what you've got.
I only have experience with plotting the FR response actually. I did have a look at the waterfall graph, but didn't really know how to read it. From the little I've gleaned in that respect I don't think it decays quickly enough - but at least I have a pretty FR from 10 to 100. I should have read further back in the thread as far as I didn't realize Jnick wanted such a high crossover. I'm surprised as anything over 100 would make the subs localizeable so I assume he's running stereo subs - anyways I'll read back so I have a better idea anyways of what's going on in the thread .

After 100 my FR doesn't look as hot - there's some serious nulls that I'll need to experiment more / consider room treatments / buy a mini DSP to deal with. I'd be happy to show you to 300 but you'll have to wait a little while as I'm fairly busy this weekend getting ready for a 3 week trip to Ireland.

FWIW I use XT32, and have dual subs. It took a lot of experimentation and moving subs around to figure out the best spot for them (in my case at the front wall 4/5 location and the back wall 4/5 location. The sub at the rear's phase is set to 180 (thus my need to use the Line In) - which I discovered through experimentation works quite well in my environment. Although altering the distance / delay in the AVR is preferred so I understand, the phase setting works best in my case. I measured my subs around my room until I found the best place for them without audyssey - then ran the room correction, which did help tame a peak and bring a null up somewhat. That response is measure with the sub and the right (or left) front speaker I believe. As far as the Fletcher-Munson curves, I assume that's what is commonly referred to as a house curve? - wouldn't running the subs 3db hot accomplish a similar effect?

Cheers!
Sean.
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post #16482 of 17016 Old 08-07-2014, 08:39 PM
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Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread

Hey guys,

Just want to clarify that I DONT want a high crossover. I was told to run YPAO and it will tell me what my crossover should be. When I ran YPAO it said the crossover was 100Hz. That's where the number came from. In all honesty, I have no idea what it should be. I always was under the impression that the crossover should be 80Hz. However the LV12R documentation says to set the dial maxed, to 120Hz and my receiver thought I needed it at 100Hz. Any input is definitely appreciated.

And again, not sure where I said it, but I am most definitely using LFE IN for the sub connection .

Also note that I am only running one sub.

Thanks!

Yamaha RX-V675 | Primus 363s fronts | Primus 163 rears | Primus 351 Center | Rythmik LV12R Sub

Last edited by jnick1; 08-07-2014 at 08:42 PM. Reason: add info
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post #16483 of 17016 Old 08-07-2014, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by jnick1 View Post
Hey guys,

Just want to clarify that I DONT want a high crossover. I was told to run YPAO and it will tell me what my crossover should be. When I ran YPAO it said the crossover was 100Hz. That's where the number came from. In all honesty, I have no idea what it should be. I always was under the impression that the crossover should be 80Hz. However the LV12R documentation says to set the dial maxed, to 120Hz and my receiver thought I needed it at 100Hz. Any input is definitely appreciated.

And again, not sure where I said it, but I am most definitely using LFE IN for the sub connection .

Thanks!
Leave the LV at 120. Listen at 80-100 in the AVR and use what sounds best.
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post #16484 of 17016 Old 08-07-2014, 08:54 PM
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Hey guys,

Just want to clarify that I DONT want a high crossover. I was told to run YPAO and it will tell me what my crossover should be. When I ran YPAO it said the crossover was 100Hz. That's where the number came from. In all honesty, I have no idea what it should be. I always was under the impression that the crossover should be 80Hz. However the LV12R documentation says to set the dial maxed, to 120Hz and my receiver thought I needed it at 100Hz. Any input is definitely appreciated.

And again, not sure where I said it, but I am most definitely using LFE IN for the sub connection .

Also note that I am only running one sub.

Thanks!
You are conflating two different things. Since you are using bass management in your AVR, you don't need to also impose a crossover in your sub. So by maxing out the dial on your sub, you're just allowing anything the AVR sends to the sub to get through, which is a good thing.

As for the AVR setting, the usual wisdom is that you can raise the crossover your room correction software suggests, but you're generally not advised to lower it. That said, if you're not really cranking the sound, you're probably safe to experiment with 80 hz instead of the 100 hz it recommended, and see how the sound compares, whether it affects subwoofer localization, etc. But you shouldn't feel bad about 100 hz, lots of folks choose a higher crossover like that, and as long as you're not having localization issues with the sub, it may actually result in better home theater sound.

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post #16485 of 17016 Old 08-07-2014, 09:48 PM
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Hey guys,

Just want to clarify that I DONT want a high crossover. I was told to run YPAO and it will tell me what my crossover should be. When I ran YPAO it said the crossover was 100Hz. That's where the number came from. In all honesty, I have no idea what it should be. I always was under the impression that the crossover should be 80Hz. However the LV12R documentation says to set the dial maxed, to 120Hz and my receiver thought I needed it at 100Hz. Any input is definitely appreciated.

And again, not sure where I said it, but I am most definitely using LFE IN for the sub connection .

Also note that I am only running one sub.

Thanks!
Ok well if you're using the LFE in as was mentioned it doesn't matter where you've got the dial on your sub. The phase and crossover on your sub is bypassed in this case.

Regardless of whether you use LFE in or LINE in - YPAO is telling you where it thinks you need to cross your subs over in the receiver. Forget about your subs for the moment. Regardless of whether you even have a sub - it's measuring what the lowest frequencies it thinks should be sent to your speakers, which is 100hz. It does this as that's what YPAO thinks is the LOWEST frequency your front speakers will handle. It will (ostensibly) automatically set it to 100 after having run YPAO. Don't adjust it down afterwards in the receiver. In any case what that means is that the receiver will divide the signal in half, sending everything over 100 to your speakers (at which YPAO has decided the ideal crossover point is/ lowest frequency your fronts can handle) and 100 and below to your sub. Again as you're using the LFE in it doesn't matter where you've got the knob on the sub at. If you WERE to use the Line in (which you would only do if you needed to have the sub do the aforementioned frequency routing - {which you don't because your receiver is doing it} OR you wanted to use the phase knob - which is really only recommended after you've exhausted every other option to achieve a satisfactory frequency response) you would then set the crossover frequency knob to max just to make sure it's not interfering with the signal coming from the receiver. To be clear your receiver is routing only 100hz and down one way or the other after running YPAO - but you wouldn't want to use line in and have the crossover knob set to 60 - as basically the sub would create it's own crossover point and you'd lose everything between 60 and 100. If you set it to 120 it would function properly (basically it wouldn't do anything which is what you'd want).

Do you have dual subs you're trying to equalize?

EDIT: Reading back through the thread it seems you've done it correctly. The best way for you to know just how effective YPAO has been, or your placement has been with your sub(s) is to use REW with a measurement mic. You could probably do a rough estimate of your success with a rat shack meter - but it would be WAY easier if you had a usb mic such as the Umik or UMM-6 to use with REW. REW has a room simulator where you set the distance of your room (length x width) and place your subs into the simulator to get a simulated curve. You don't need the mic to run the simulator and it might be helpful if you're looking for ideas for placement. Otherwise get the actual measurement mic - not only will you actually KNOW what's going on in your room but it's fun to boot

Last edited by Sean Spamilton; 08-07-2014 at 10:00 PM.
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post #16486 of 17016 Old 08-08-2014, 09:00 AM
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I'm crossed over at 80 (on the AVR, the sub crossover is at max) using the LINE inputs, and there doesn't seem to be any ill-effects:

I also agree with what you have done. I need to emphasize it is OK to use line inputs. Everyone should try it. There are other posting against it because LFE inputs, on the other hand, simplifies control. But once becoming familiar with bass management, one really has to hear the difference before deciding which way is the right away to go.
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post #16487 of 17016 Old 08-08-2014, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by jnick1 View Post
...When I ran YPAO it said the crossover was 100Hz. That's where the number came from. In all honesty, I have no idea what it should be. I always was under the impression that the crossover should be 80Hz. However the LV12R documentation says to set the dial maxed, to 120Hz and my receiver thought I needed it at 100Hz.

I don't have any hands-on experience with YPAO, but can't help but think that if YPAO is choosing a 100Hz xover for your Primus P363's, then something is wrong. Those speakers are supposedly flat down to 38Hz so you'd think that YPAO would be detecting the lower F3 somewhere close to that. Could be that you're getting a bunch of odd reflections where you currently locate the microphone or perhaps you've got a bad mic (unlikely but possible). You might want to re-locate the microphone, hang a blanket on any hard walls, re-position drapes on any windows, etc., then re-run YPAO until it chooses a xover closer to the 38Hz that your speakers are capable of. Once you achieve that, then you can experiment with xovers (anything equal to or higher than what YPAO chose) until you find something you like. ...IMO.

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post #16488 of 17016 Old 08-08-2014, 12:08 PM
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I just got my spl meter. Now what? Do i need to use my spl to tweak my speakers to get to 75db and lv12r too? Then run my audysey? Or tweak all of them after audysey?
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post #16489 of 17016 Old 08-08-2014, 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by caloyzki View Post
I just got my spl meter. Now what? Do i need to use my spl to tweak my speakers to get to 75db and lv12r too? Then run my audysey? Or tweak all of them after audysey?
Here's a link to a guide on how to measure your frequency response using a SPL meter:
http://forum.blu-ray.com/showthread.php?t=38765

TBH - that seems like a TON of work.. I'd (personally) focus on my subwoofer response up to 100hz and leave the rest to YPAO.

The idea then would be to play back and measure at the main listening position (MLP) a series of test tones from 10 or so to 100hz - and take note of the response fluctuations at each frequency. If there are 10 measurements you would want the least amount of variation between each measurement. So if the sub was in position A and you had major variations (55db at 40hz, 80db at 65hz) vs position B where you had smaller fluctuations (70db at 40hz, 73db at 50, 68db at 60hz etc) then that's where you'd want to place your sub.

I'm probably doing a poor job of explaining it - make sure to read the guide I linked - failing your endeavors with the SPL meter just go buy a USB mic to measure with REW (it's much easier - and there's a whole thread here on AVS dedicated to helping people get up and running with their new mics).

The previous poster brings up a good point about YPAO - your P363s should indeed play MUCH lower than 100hz - perhaps you can measure your frequency response at the MLP using your SPL meter and just the front speakers (without having the sub on) to verify that they are playing back those lower frequencies (they should be). Try moving your speakers out from the wall an inch or two, and toeing them in or out ... a matter of inches can make a major difference!
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post #16490 of 17016 Old 08-09-2014, 02:01 AM
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Been living with my FV15HP for 2 months now and I can honestly say it has been the best audio upgrade I have done. Having a subwoofer makes movies and TV shows so much more visceral. I find it funny a lot of my guest think it's an end table because it's so large and also because I keep it nearfield to the sofa. Luckily my decor is dark so the black oak matches nicely.

My next upgrade is probably going to be an audio cabinet of some sort so I can move my PS3, HTPC, AVR, Harmony Smart Control hub and make room for a center speaker. I'm having a heck of a time finding a good audio cabinet though. Already bought one cabinet and returned it because it was so ugly looking. Found Salamader Designs on the internet, but boy are they pricey when compared to everything else in my Ikea equipped living room. What is everyone else using for an audio cabinet/rack?
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post #16491 of 17016 Old 08-09-2014, 04:50 AM
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Doc---Take a look at the Solid Steel racks at Music Direct. There are a few of the 5 Series that they are selling at close-out prices. Really well designed and built (except perhaps for the 3/4" MDF shelves), and good looking.

Last edited by BDP24; 08-12-2014 at 06:21 AM.
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post #16492 of 17016 Old 08-09-2014, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by jnick1 View Post
Hey guys,

Just want to clarify that I DONT want a high crossover. I was told to run YPAO and it will tell me what my crossover should be. When I ran YPAO it said the crossover was 100Hz. That's where the number came from. In all honesty, I have no idea what it should be. I always was under the impression that the crossover should be 80Hz. However the LV12R documentation says to set the dial maxed, to 120Hz and my receiver thought I needed it at 100Hz. Any input is definitely appreciated.

And again, not sure where I said it, but I am most definitely using LFE IN for the sub connection .

Also note that I am only running one sub.

Thanks!
Usually, the receiver suggests a crossover frequency where it measures your speakers roll off of -3db. This could happen based on the speaker or the placement. 100hz is a totally reasonable value. The only way to tell what's really going on is to measure it with a program like REW and a measurement mic, and have a look. Alternately, you can try different crossover frequencies to see what sounds best. Just make sure you have the phase aligned at the crossover frequency.
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post #16493 of 17016 Old 08-14-2014, 07:00 PM
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Has anybody here ever personally compared a FV15HP to a PSA XS30? I still wonder if I am missing anything. I am looking for more chest thump. My move reference is the opening scene in Battle LA for about the first 2-3 minutes. Or many movie scenes with a .50 cal gun.

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post #16494 of 17016 Old 08-15-2014, 05:57 AM
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I don't think anyone in here has experience with both. I would try asking this in the PSA thread as well.

Receiver - Denon 4311CI
Speakers - Infinity P363's, PC351, P153's
Subs - Rythmik FV15HP's
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post #16495 of 17016 Old 08-15-2014, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by LowellG View Post
Has anybody here ever personally compared a FV15HP to a PSA XS30? I still wonder if I am missing anything. I am looking for more chest thump. My move reference is the opening scene in Battle LA for about the first 2-3 minutes. Or many movie scenes with a .50 cal gun.
The FV15hp is going to excel in the 12-30hz range, the XS30 is going to excel in the 40-120hz range. Chest thumping bass is normally around 80hz. If you want more bass in that area perhaps you should start by measuring your response and make sure you are not sitting in a null.
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post #16496 of 17016 Old 08-15-2014, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by basshead81 View Post
The FV15hp is going to excel in the 12-30hz range, the XS30 is going to excel in the 40-120hz range. Chest thumping bass is normally around 80hz. If you want more bass in that area perhaps you should start by measuring your response and make sure you are not sitting in a null.
Ugh. Looks like I'm going to have to break down and buy all the equipment to run REW. I watched a tutorial on YouTube the other night and it doesn't look like a simple program. I am still not sure what to buy or what all I need

However I am glad to hear that maybe the problem. I really didn't want to take the loss on my PSAs.

Bad thing is my room size does not leave a lot of options for placing subwoofers
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post #16497 of 17016 Old 08-15-2014, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by LowellG View Post
Ugh. Looks like I'm going to have to break down and buy all the equipment to run REW. I watched a tutorial on YouTube the other night and it doesn't look like a simple program. I am still not sure what to buy or what all I need

However I am glad to hear that maybe the problem. I really didn't want to take the loss on my PSAs.

Bad thing is my room size does not leave a lot of options for placing subwoofers
It's actually not that hard to get going with basic measurements in REW. Especially if you have a computer with an HDMI output - then all you need is a $75 microphone from miniDSP and a little bit of time to set it up.

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post #16498 of 17016 Old 08-15-2014, 09:38 AM
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^^ +1 but get the mic from crossspectrum around $100 instead.
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post #16499 of 17016 Old 08-15-2014, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by bkeeler10 View Post
It's actually not that hard to get going with basic measurements in REW. Especially if you have a computer with an HDMI output - then all you need is a $75 microphone from miniDSP and a little bit of time to set it up.
I found the umik-1. USB. Is that the one. Where does the hdmi fit in and that's all I need.
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post #16500 of 17016 Old 08-15-2014, 11:03 AM
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I found the umik-1. USB. Is that the one. Where does the hdmi fit in and that's all I need.
HDMI is the easiest, cleanest way to get REW's test signals into your AVR or pre-pro. So just configure one of your AVR's HDMI inputs for your computer, then make the connection between your computer and the AVR.

Good point made about getting the mic from Cross Spectrum. Apparently they have a more complete calibration, including calibration all the way down to single-digit frequencies. Probably worth the extra bit of cost.

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