Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread - Page 553 - AVS Forum
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post #16561 of 16569 Old 08-26-2014, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by tvuong View Post
I reran Audessey calibration with 14/Low damping and my graphs look more like Rythmik and Ricci's graphs with the three damping settings. It is late so I have not listened to my system but for now, I am going to stick with 1 port 14Hz Med damping based solely on how my graphs look.



I too am now running 1 port mid dampening and I like what I hear. Unfortunately, I have no graphs to show, but to my ears it sounds like a good compromise between low and high dampening.

Receiver - Denon 1713
Speakers - Infinity P363's, PC351, P153's
Subs - Rythmik FV15HP's
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post #16562 of 16569 Old 08-26-2014, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by shaghi View Post
I'm interested in purchasing one of the Rythimc DIY kits, most likely the DS1500 CI. Is it possible to order one of the unfinished/assembled cabinets from Rhythmic as well?
Unfortunately we don't sell unfinished boxes. I know some people have been using our drivers with flat packs from DIY Sound Group. You can ask about this in the DIY subwoofer section but with minors modifications they should work fine. DIY Sound Group has two sealed boxes that you may be able to use with our DS1501/DS1510. One is 3 cf and the other one is 4 cf. I would go with the 4 cf box.

http://www.diysoundgroup.com/sealed-...flatpacks.html

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post #16563 of 16569 Old Yesterday, 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by enricoclaudio View Post
Unfortunately we don't sell unfinished boxes. I know some people have been using our drivers with flat packs from DIY Sound Group. You can ask about this in the DIY subwoofer section but with minors modifications they should work fine. DIY Sound Group has two sealed boxes that you may be able to use with our DS1501/DS1510. One is 3 cf and the other one is 4 cf. I would go with the 4 cf box.

http://www.diysoundgroup.com/sealed-...flatpacks.html
I see... Could you tell me what exactly is included in your kit and what other materials I will need to source myself? I'm a total noob when it comes to this. I will start a thread in the DIY forum when I get the chance. Also, how come you don't sell unfinished boxes? Are the shipping costs prohibitive? Any chance you can make an exception and sell me one? And just to be clear - the only difference between the DS1501 and DS1510 is the power handling?

Another thing - if I decide to put together my own sub using one of those flatpack enclosures, will I need to manually eq or run into potential issues regarding sound quality? Or will the direct servo accommodate any imperfections?

Last edited by shaghi; Yesterday at 01:50 AM.
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post #16564 of 16569 Old Yesterday, 05:16 AM
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Originally Posted by shaghi View Post
Another thing - if I decide to put together my own sub using one of those flatpack enclosures, will I need to manually eq or run into potential issues regarding sound quality? Or will the direct servo accommodate any imperfections?
You would still benefit from EQ. The servo just reduces distortion. It doesn't compensate for room issues.
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post #16565 of 16569 Old Yesterday, 08:45 AM
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The need and ability to EQ, and issues regarding SQ, have nothing to do with whether you buy a fully assembled Rythmik sub or, rather, a DIY Kit and a flat-pack enclosure. The Rythmik plate amp and servo driver do all the work for you either way. You just have to make sure the enclosure is air-tight upon its completed construction. The flat-packs are really well made, and go together easily. Actually, if you get the 4cu.ft. version ($120 each plus shipping. The 3cu.ft. is $90), you will get slightly more output than the Rythmik 3cu.ft. enclosure provides. The reason Rythmik can't sell you an unfinished enclosure is they don't get any from their enclosure supplier (in China). The Rythmik DIY Kit contains all you need for completely assembled subs (driver, plate amp, driver and amp mounting hardware, wiring, enclosure polyfill) apart from everything related to the enclosures themselves. To build the flat-pack you will need wood glue and woodworking clamps, which will cost you about $100 (a gallon of glue and 4-6 24" clamps from Harbor Freight). Then you may want to finish the MDF flat-pack enclosure(s), of course. Figure another $100 or so for primer, paint, sandpaper, etc. Add to that grill cloth, and you can see that you actually may not save any money doing it yourself, and have no guarantee the finished product will look as good as an assembled Rythmik. But if you have any woodworking skills, and you want subs finished in a way Rythmik does not offer, you have the option.


The 1510 driver takes advantage of the higher output of the H600 amp by having greater maximum excursion (cone travel) than the 1501, therefore providing slightly higher SPL. There is nothing to be gained by pairing a 1510 driver with an A370 plate amp. The 1510 has a significantly larger motor structure than the 1501 as well. Plus it's one-piece cone looks great!

Last edited by BDP24; Yesterday at 09:33 AM.
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post #16566 of 16569 Old Yesterday, 09:13 AM
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Hey something I've wondered for awhile,

Lets say you have an Antimode or some sort of sub EQ. Now I run 14hz and hi damping on my F15, but is it best to run antimode EQ with it on low damping, and then when done switch back to hi? Then when back to hi, I let Pioneer's MCACC do it's thing/ I thought this might be the case, but I saw that low damping just drops off quicker. And if that's the case, I'm not EQ'ing correctly and should EQ with what I actually run.

What do you guys think?

Sorry if this was discussed, I didn't see it.
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post #16567 of 16569 Old Yesterday, 09:16 AM
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^^ Per Brian, he recommends running calibration with low damping then switch to whatever one prefers and NOT the other way around.
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post #16568 of 16569 Old Yesterday, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by JT78681 View Post
The more I read it looks like a Q of 0.5 is preferred by most. This would be high dampening on Rythmik subs. To be honest I prefer low over high dampening. The bass is more full bodied, hence has more ringing, but it just sounds better with movies to me.
I use damping to match the timing of my speakers. I use mid damping for my Ascend 340s because it sounds like more of a match. However, when I had Gallo Reference Stradas (which are incredibly fast) in my system I had to go with high damping, there was no other choice. Low damping seems solely designed for that cinema boom. It's somewhat entertaining, but lots of other subs can do that. Rythmik's unique strength is tight, articulate bass, which may sound thin and dry to some, but it's much more realistic.
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post #16569 of 16569 Old Yesterday, 03:21 PM
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^^^

For the sealed F15, Brian's recommendation is, prior to running room EQ, set the amplifier to:
Rumble Filter - Off
Extension - 14Hz/Mid damping

...
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post #16570 of 16569 Old Yesterday, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peen View Post
Hey something I've wondered for awhile,

Lets say you have an Antimode or some sort of sub EQ. Now I run 14hz and hi damping on my F15, but is it best to run antimode EQ with it on low damping, and then when done switch back to hi? Then when back to hi, I let Pioneer's MCACC do it's thing/ I thought this might be the case, but I saw that low damping just drops off quicker. And if that's the case, I'm not EQ'ing correctly and should EQ with what I actually run.

What do you guys think?

Sorry if this was discussed, I didn't see it.
I don't know about other "sub EQ" products, but the DSP AntiMode corrects for less-than flat amplitude response in the listening room as measured by the included microphone. If you set your Rythmik to Low or Medium Damping and run the Antimode, and then switch the Rythmik to High Damping, the Antimode will be correcting for a raw response that no longer exists. Not the optimum implementation of the Antimode's abilities, IMO.
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