Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread - Page 703 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #21061 of 25248 Old 10-15-2015, 08:08 AM
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I don't think there was amp or driver issue... it was just a half strength signal from the MiniDSP unbalanced combined with a max gain setting and the increased noise from the LFE input... switching to Line In input and using both connections (L+R) with an RCA y adapter allowed me to use 75% gain and lowered the noise level to a barely audible level. Even at night, when the room is silent.

The main reason for the exchange is that one of the screw thread inserts on the enclosure is badly stripped and so I couldn't use the feet and had to use pliers to remove a semi inserted foot from that insert. (It separated the screw from the rubber and so it couldn't be unscrewed by hand). While feet are not necessary on carpet, I do have hardwood floors in other parts of the house like the living room and I wanted the option to use the feet given the price of the sub. So, the exchange is mainly for the enclosure, not amp/driver.
Damn bro. You screwed the foot in so tight in the stripped insert before you realized it was stripped that you needed pliers to remove it? Sure you didnt strip it yourself?
Well, to be exact, I put it in slightly and carefully at least six times and each time it got caught on the stripped threads. The other 3 feet went in easily and completely on the first attempt. So, after checking and rechecking and rechecking and so on with the 4th foot, I finally used some more effort to see if it was just being stubborn... it went in a little further before the screw and rubber detached...

Now if I was able to get 3 feet in perfectly and after 6+ careful attempts to get the 4th foot in properly, that clearly indicates that the screw thread insert on the enclosure for the 4th foot was already stripped before I even made the first very careful and gentle attempt to screw in that foot. I even tried the spare 5th foot before applying any significant force to make sure the problem wasn't the foot itself.

Bottom line is I tried everything before applying any significant degree of force and it barely went in each time before I finally tried using more force (and before doing so I tried the spare foot to ensure it wasn't the foot that had the stripped threads). And even after I did apply more force, it didn't go far before getting stuck.

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post #21062 of 25248 Old 10-15-2015, 09:57 AM
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Old sub was picked up and new one delivered. Need to wait an hour for help getting it upstairs. Hopefully, my current sub eq house curve will apply equally well.
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post #21063 of 25248 Old 10-16-2015, 07:20 AM
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Bottom line is I tried everything before applying any significant degree of force and it barely went in each time before I finally tried using more force (and before doing so I tried the spare foot to ensure it wasn't the foot that had the stripped threads). And even after I did apply more force, it didn't go far before getting stuck.

This is another example of manufactuering tolerance. We now double check the threads for each sub going out. It appears to us the problem is limited to a particular range of serial numbers. We also will make some rubbert feet which short screw stub. I have a discussion with supplier and they will in the future use anodization, not black coating.
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post #21064 of 25248 Old 10-16-2015, 07:42 AM
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Bottom line is I tried everything before applying any significant degree of force and it barely went in each time before I finally tried using more force (and before doing so I tried the spare foot to ensure it wasn't the foot that had the stripped threads). And even after I did apply more force, it didn't go far before getting stuck.

This is another example of manufactuering tolerance. We now double check the threads for each sub going out. It appears to us the problem is limited to a particular range of serial numbers. We also will make some rubbert feet which short screw stub. I have a discussion with supplier and they will in the future use anodization, not black coating.
Ok, that's good to know
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post #21065 of 25248 Old 10-16-2015, 07:51 AM
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It's also another example of just how great Rythmik's customer service is...
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post #21066 of 25248 Old 10-16-2015, 07:58 AM
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It's also another example of just how great Rythmik's customer service is...
+1, I experienced that first hand

Great tech support too
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post #21067 of 25248 Old 10-16-2015, 09:37 AM
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It's also another example of just how great Rythmik's customer service is...
Hate to think what it cost them just because one insert was stripped.
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post #21068 of 25248 Old 10-16-2015, 09:57 AM
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Hate to think what it cost them just because one insert was stripped.
Or, How many new customers it will bring to Rythmik because of their commitment to customer service? Definitely above and beyond care.
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post #21069 of 25248 Old 10-16-2015, 10:42 AM
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It's also another example of just how great Rythmik's customer service is...
Hate to think what it cost them just because one insert was stripped.
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Hate to think what it cost them just because one insert was stripped.
Or, How many new customers it will bring to Rythmik because of their commitment to customer service? Definitely above and beyond care.
I'm more inclined to believe the latter. While some might consider it minor, I wasn't prepared to settle on never being able to use the feet on a brand new $600 sub.

And it's my understanding if the amp and driver are indeed working normally they will be sold separately as b-stock. The enclosure will end up as junk. I suppose fixing the insert is either not possible or simply not worth the time or effort in the grand scheme of things.
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post #21070 of 25248 Old 10-16-2015, 11:39 AM
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I'm more inclined to believe the latter. While some might consider it minor, I wasn't prepared to settle on never being able to use the feet on a brand new $600 sub.

And it's my understanding if the amp and driver are indeed working normally they will be sold separately as b-stock. The enclosure will end up as junk. I suppose fixing the insert is either not possible or simply not worth the time or effort in the grand scheme of things.
Wouldnt expect you to settle.
The cost of the enclosure, shipping 2 subs to you, shipping one back, labor and time is a big expense when you consider the insert probably costs less than $1.
No wonder Rhythmik is keen to make sure it doesnt happen again.
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post #21071 of 25248 Old 10-16-2015, 12:14 PM
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I'm more inclined to believe the latter. While some might consider it minor, I wasn't prepared to settle on never being able to use the feet on a brand new $600 sub.

And it's my understanding if the amp and driver are indeed working normally they will be sold separately as b-stock. The enclosure will end up as junk. I suppose fixing the insert is either not possible or simply not worth the time or effort in the grand scheme of things.
The cost of the enclosure, shipping 2 subs to you, shipping one back, labor and time is a big expense when you consider the insert probably costs less than $1.
No wonder Rhythmik is keen to make sure it doesnt happen again.
I agree
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post #21072 of 25248 Old 10-17-2015, 06:27 AM
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Is there a particular technique for removing the grill from these subs? Or do you simply get each of the corners loose one at a time and then carefully pull the whole grill off?

Same for putting it back on?

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post #21073 of 25248 Old 10-17-2015, 09:08 AM
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Also, switching from 12dB to 24dB LPF slope (and back) made a noise while the amp was in the on position. Line In L+R was connected and AVR/MiniDSP/TV/source device were on but with no audio playing when flipping the switch.

Does this mean the amp should be off when adjusting the knobs/switches?
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post #21074 of 25248 Old 10-17-2015, 11:33 AM
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I don't know if the grills for your model are removable (but many others have one so can help).

When you are switching gain and filter stages in and out I am not surprised there is a pop. If it is not real loud I would not worry. It should definitely be off when plugging and unplugging cables (like any other component).

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post #21075 of 25248 Old 10-17-2015, 01:03 PM
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I don't know if the grills for your model are removable (but many others have one so can help).

When you are switching gain and filter stages in and out I am not surprised there is a pop. If it is not real loud I would not worry. It should definitely be off when plugging and unplugging cables (like any other component).
Ok, thanks

It wasn't real loud but was noticeable since no audio was playing at the time. Of course, I turn off the amp before unplugging or plugging the power cord or rca cables or even when changing the MiniDSP configuration.
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post #21076 of 25248 Old 10-17-2015, 02:54 PM
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Would the L12 be sufficient for a room thats a bit under 2700 cu ft? 60/40 Music/HT. Room will be closed off from other areas of the house.
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post #21077 of 25248 Old 10-17-2015, 03:33 PM
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Would the L12 be sufficient for a room thats a bit under 2700 cu ft? 60/40 Music/HT. Room will be closed off from other areas of the house.
That's probably stretching it a bit. You might need to consider something larger in order to get acceptable response.
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post #21078 of 25248 Old 10-17-2015, 08:36 PM
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Would the L12 be sufficient for a room thats a bit under 2700 cu ft? 60/40 Music/HT. Room will be closed off from other areas of the house.
It depends on how loud you listen. My wife thinks my 12" sub is more than enough for my secondary living room system that is at least 8000ft^3.
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post #21079 of 25248 Old 10-18-2015, 12:22 AM
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That's probably stretching it a bit. You might need to consider something larger in order to get acceptable response.
I can't recommend enough the proper placement of two subs. Get 2 L12s
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post #21080 of 25248 Old 10-18-2015, 06:17 AM
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Would the L12 be sufficient for a room thats a bit under 2700 cu ft? 60/40 Music/HT. Room will be closed off from other areas of the house.
Two L12s or a L22 should do the trick... a single L12 might not cut it, especially for HT.

An LV12R should be like 2 L12s around 20Hz and in mid or high extension/damping modes should be plenty articulate for music. I have one and mid is my preference for movies. Though high might be even better for music (but not movies in my experience).
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post #21081 of 25248 Old 10-18-2015, 08:12 AM
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It depends on how loud you listen. My wife thinks my 12" sub is more than enough for my secondary living room system that is at least 8000ft^3.
Key words being "my wife".

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post #21082 of 25248 Old 10-18-2015, 11:33 AM
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I just bought the rocketfish surge protector to connect all my gears. And it has some features that when the main component got shut off, all others will automatically shuts off. (Not idle/standby) question is is that features safe for my LV12R? When its off there is no red color. Or better to leave it on idle/srandby with the color red on?ty

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post #21083 of 25248 Old 10-18-2015, 03:50 PM
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Two L12s or a L22 should do the trick... a single L12 might not cut it, especially for HT.
While an L22 is a beast, you don't get the ability to eliminate bass issues in your room by placing subs across the room from each other. That's why based on my experience I advocate that approach so much
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post #21084 of 25248 Old 10-18-2015, 05:29 PM
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Two L12s or a L22 should do the trick... a single L12 might not cut it, especially for HT.
While an L22 is a beast, you don't get the ability to eliminate bass issues in your room by placing subs across the room from each other. That's why based on my experience I advocate that approach so much
Good point, but doesn't stacking two 12 inch subs (or L22) give 6dB more output vs. just 3dB more output with subs in opposite corners or walls of the room?
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post #21085 of 25248 Old 10-18-2015, 06:32 PM
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When dealing with a larger room, subs being spread out really can help smooth the freq response. When I cut one of mine off and test the chart doesnt look great at all, but is improved nicely with two spread out. Have a 7-8db dip removed is a lot more important than the 6db you may or may not gain.
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post #21086 of 25248 Old 10-18-2015, 07:23 PM
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Guess who has a F25 headed his way this week?
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post #21087 of 25248 Old 10-18-2015, 09:03 PM
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Good point, but doesn't stacking two 12 inch subs (or L22) give 6dB more output vs. just 3dB more output with subs in opposite corners or walls of the room?
The total output gain is the same either way, but putting both of them in the same place defeats the purpose. IMO two L12s or LV12s in the same place is a waste and a single F15HP or FV15HP would have been a better choice.

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post #21088 of 25248 Old 10-18-2015, 09:21 PM
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The total output gain is the same either way, but putting both of them in the same place defeats the purpose. IMO two L12s or LV12s in the same place is a waste and a single F15HP or FV15HP would have been a better choice.
+1
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post #21089 of 25248 Old 10-19-2015, 06:25 AM
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That's probably stretching it a bit. You might need to consider something larger in order to get acceptable response.
That's essentially the response I got for Rythmik's customer service (great response time, even on a a weekend). They, like others above, recommended an LV12R or L22. I may still go with a single L12 for now and plan to add a second when finances allow, unless the single L12 proves sufficient for my needs. I'm not in the 2700 cu. ft. room yet, but I'll be upgrading from a DefTech Prosub 1000, so I'm sure there will be a marked improvement over what I have now.
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post #21090 of 25248 Old 10-19-2015, 06:40 AM
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When dealing with a larger room, subs being spread out really can help smooth the freq response. When I cut one of mine off and test the chart doesnt look great at all, but is improved nicely with two spread out. Have a 7-8db dip removed is a lot more important than the 6db you may or may not gain.
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The total output gain is the same either way, but putting both of them in the same place defeats the purpose. IMO two L12s or LV12s in the same place is a waste and a single F15HP or FV15HP would have been a better choice.
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+1
On second thought, you guys are right; with two matching subs you can do whatever you want, which allows for much great setup flexibility.

However, my point had more to do with someone in a situation closer to mine, where there may not be optimal placement options for dual subs and dual subs would likely end up side by side or stacked vertically. In that case, an L22 or LV12R might be cheaper and more convenient to setup.

My sub/sat and MLP placement is far from optimal, though I mainly have to deal with two peaks... so I can EQ myself out of that hole pretty well. Not best practices for sure, but the best I can do without converting my small bedroom into a small theater.
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Samsung UN46EH6030; Yamaha HTR-3066, SVS Prime Bookshelf Mains and Prime Center, Rythmik LV12R; PS4, Xbox One, Motorola RNG150N
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