Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread - Page 787 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #23581 of 30671 Old 05-05-2016, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post
Spikes.
Nice avatar.
Thx! Did that a few years back
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post #23582 of 30671 Old 05-05-2016, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by jedi1982 View Post
For the FV15HP, if sitting behind an acoustic transparent screen on carpet, are the rubber feet recommended or the spikes? Thx
placing it flat on carpet with no feet/spikes is also a perfectly valid option and I believe this is what Brian recommends usually... I don't know if behind a AT screen changes things though

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post #23583 of 30671 Old 05-05-2016, 09:44 AM
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My subs don't have feet, but that might change now with a little one about to be upright any day now.

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post #23584 of 30671 Old 05-05-2016, 10:28 AM
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Bluecow

...jealous of your room and set-up! Very nice indeed!!

Slightly off topic, but how do you have the grey panels attached to the doors - looks like some sort of over-the-door bracket/hanger - mind sharing the details?
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post #23585 of 30671 Old 05-05-2016, 10:40 AM
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Place directly on the carpet you say? Interesting. Knowing this is in the basement in a dedicated home theater room, the vibrations won't go through the floor this way?
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post #23586 of 30671 Old 05-05-2016, 10:43 AM
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Place directly on the carpet you say? Interesting. Knowing this is in the basement in a dedicated home theater room, the vibrations won't go through the floor this way?
Feet wont stop the vibrations from penetrating walls. Hell you could suspend the sub(s) in mid-air and that wouldn't help either.

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post #23587 of 30671 Old 05-05-2016, 11:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jedi1982 View Post
Thx! Did that a few years back
Given your username, shouldn't Bond be holding a lightsaber? Jez' sayin'...

Flat on carpet is fine. If you use feet use spikes. Is the basement floor concrete under the carpet? If so, I would use none and forget about it.

"After silence, that which best expresses the inexpressible, is music" - Aldous Huxley
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post #23588 of 30671 Old 05-05-2016, 12:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jedi1982 View Post
Thx! Did that a few years back
Given your username, shouldn't Bond be holding a lightsaber? Jez' sayin'...

Flat on carpet is fine. If you use feet use spikes. Is the basement floor concrete under the carpet? If so, I would use none and forget about it.
Or perhaps Jedi Bond instead of James Bond, lol
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post #23589 of 30671 Old 05-05-2016, 12:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post
Or perhaps Jedi Bond instead of James Bond, lol
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonH50 View Post
Given your username, shouldn't Bond be holding a lightsaber? Jez' sayin'...

Flat on carpet is fine. If you use feet use spikes. Is the basement floor concrete under the carpet? If so, I would use none and forget about it.
Ooooh I like where this is going lol

Yes it is concrete under the carpet so am thinking will likely fuhgitaboutit.

However, if I do build a riser/stage under the screen area, then I'd be back to looking at using the rubber feet again correct? As well as looking into sand filling in the area between the stage boards
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post #23590 of 30671 Old 05-05-2016, 01:14 PM
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Putting a sub (or any speaker) on a riser can be problematic as the riser needs to be very stiff, well-dampened, or both to prevent it from becoming a "boom box" for the sub. Filling with sand can certainly help.If there is no carpet so the surface is smooth and "slick" then yes rubber feet unless you don't mind marring the finish with spikes. Or just lay down a rubber-backed carpet pad under the subs.

IMO - Don

"After silence, that which best expresses the inexpressible, is music" - Aldous Huxley
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post #23591 of 30671 Old 05-05-2016, 02:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Friday_Pattycake View Post
Rythmik has the chart updated on their website:

At 20 Hz, our subs vary in their maximum output capability. The output at 20 Hz is shown relative to F12.

F12: 0db (baseline)
F8/FM8: -1.5db
L12: -1db
LV12R: +2.5db
L22: + 4db
LVX12: +4db
E15HP: + 4db
F15HP: +4.5db
FVX15: +6.5db
FV15HP: +9.5db
F25: +8db

Cool , thanks for that! I was hoping for all the rest of the specs in the one chart as well (weight, dimensions, etc) but that helps

I've started my own spreadsheet, have to change dimensions and weight to metric for my brain anyway

Cheers
Paul
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post #23592 of 30671 Old 05-05-2016, 05:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jedi1982 View Post
For the FV15HP, if sitting behind an acoustic transparent screen on carpet, are the rubber feet recommended or the spikes? Thx

If the sub enclosure rocks a little when you push on it (due to the give of the carpet and/or padding underneath it), you may want to try the spikes. The movement of the woofer cone during extreme excursions can actually be enough to cause the enclosure to move in reaction to that force, potentially resulting in a loss of definition.

If you want to try something happening at the forefront of component isolation (yes, of even speakers and subs), look up Symposium Acoustics. They make a version of what are called roller bearings (naming them Roller Blocks), designed and claimed to keep seismic-level vibrations from entering components from terra firma, vibrations which can result in a blurring of detail and decrease in low-level resolution, the way a camera shutter can cause blurring in a photograph. The audibility of that blurring is determined by the transparency of your system, of course. Having a cement floor in your listening room is no guarantee of imperviousness to these very low frequency seismic vibrations, 3Hz and lower. The concept is now employed in the foundations of tall buildings in cities subject to earthquakes; when the ground moves, the building (or your Hi-Fi components!), rather than absorbing the waves of energy (vibrations, shaking) simply slides over them, riding across the top of the waves rather than being thrown to and fro by them. For more on the theory, read the writings of audiophile recording engineer Barry Diament on his website. Barry isolates his entire recording and monitoring chain (even his 6' tall Magneplanar MG 3.7 speakers!) with roller bearings.

Last edited by BDP24; 05-05-2016 at 09:38 PM.
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post #23593 of 30671 Old 05-05-2016, 06:32 PM
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Cool thx all for the responses!
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post #23594 of 30671 Old 05-06-2016, 07:11 AM
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If your carpet is over concrete, I don't recommend spikes. The metal to concrete contact can cause buzzing.

Cheers,
Chris

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post #23595 of 30671 Old 05-06-2016, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FLCanuck View Post
Bluecow

...jealous of your room and set-up! Very nice indeed!!

Slightly off topic, but how do you have the grey panels attached to the doors - looks like some sort of over-the-door bracket/hanger - mind sharing the details?
I used door hooks that I took from some hat racks I had (link below), then just used some framing wire. I thought about using some really strong 3M adhesive tape, but it would have taken a lot of tape and would have been permanent. Once I found the right door hooks, this solution worked great.

http://www.containerstore.com/s/hook...uctId=10031744

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7.2.4 Setup | Display: Panasonic TC-P65VT50 plasma | Blu-ray: Oppo UDP-203 | Processor: Anthem AVM60 | Amps: Outlaw 7700, Emotiva XPA-5 Gen 2 | Speakers: Paradigm Prestige (2) 95F's, 55C, (4) 15B's, (4) CI-Elite E65-R (Atmos) | Subs: (2) Rythmik F25's
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post #23596 of 30671 Old 05-06-2016, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by chriscmore View Post
If your carpet is over concrete, I don't recommend spikes. The metal to concrete contact can cause buzzing.

Cheers,
Chris
That's true if you use four spikes, and the spikes aren't perfectly adjusted. That's why three are better than four! With three that problem cannot happen---three spikes (or cones) create a triangle of course, so no misadjustment (one of the spikes being not in intimate contact with the surface) is possible. I would use two spikes at the front (or back, your choice) and one cone in the back (or front). Or, if you're going to try the Symposium Roller Blocks (which come as a set of three), two bearings in front, one in back (or, again, visa versa).

Last edited by BDP24; 05-06-2016 at 12:33 PM.
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post #23597 of 30671 Old 05-07-2016, 08:36 AM
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I've had three-spike speakers buzz like crazy on a carpeted concrete floor. There's no real advantage to spikes, so I recommend avoiding it. If it works for you, great, but it will be in spite of them, not because of.

Cheers
Chris
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post #23598 of 30671 Old 05-07-2016, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by chriscmore View Post
I've had three-spike speakers buzz like crazy on a carpeted concrete floor. There's no real advantage to spikes, so I recommend avoiding it. If it works for you, great, but it will be in spite of them, not because of.

Cheers
Chris

What was buzzing? If the three spike tips stay in contact with the cement (assuming they poke all the way through the carpet and padding, as they should supporting the weight of a Rythmik sub---you must push down on the sub, to get the spike tip in direct contact with the cement in order to get mechanical grounding), and a locknut is tightened on each, right up against the bottom of the enclosure, what's to buzz? I've been using them for over thirty years without a single incident of buzzing. I consider them essential for a high resolution system installed on carpet, if you're going for mechanic grounding rather than isolation, via roller bearings or air bearings. It's doable with four, just harder to get all four spikes in perfect adjustment, thus making rocking impossible. Definitely audible---that's why people use them, and why Brian installs them on his subs!
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post #23599 of 30671 Old 05-07-2016, 12:32 PM
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Spikes work well to fix a subwoofer in place on carpet. Although, if the goal is high resolution/accuracy, I'm not sure why anyone would use them vs. isolation (plain rubber feet etc.) since you are mechanically coupling to the floor and turning the floor in to a passive radiator.

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post #23600 of 30671 Old 05-07-2016, 01:02 PM
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I am still designing but will likely have no carpet on the stage behind the screen and will have the subs directly on the surface of the stage. Because of this, will probably use the rubber feet again
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post #23601 of 30671 Old 05-07-2016, 03:34 PM
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Spikes work well to fix a subwoofer in place on carpet. Although, if the goal is high resolution/accuracy, I'm not sure why anyone would use them vs. isolation (plain rubber feet etc.) since you are mechanically coupling to the floor and turning the floor in to a passive radiator.

I do prefer isolation (via roller bearings), whether on a wood/tile floor or carpet. But on carpet, rubber feet can allow a fair amount of rocking motion of the enclosure, the one thing you don't want. If I wasn't going to go for isolation and I had carpet, I would try spikes or cones. If the floor is not wood, how do spikes turn a slab of cement into a passive radiator? Cement is superior to wood for that very reason---it's relative non-resonance, and preferable for that and other reasons. We on the West Coast envy you in the Midwest and on the East Coast with your basements. Plus, you don't have our earthquakes!

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post #23602 of 30671 Old 05-11-2016, 06:56 AM
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FV18 proto type.


Here is a photo. The driver is also a proto-type as you may notice the cone is not brushed. The production 15" is brushed.


The elbows and ports work very well. The tuning frequency I confirm is now about 5% lower than FV15HP. I can shave one inch in either height or depth to raise the tuning frequency by 5%. The size is currently 21"Wx23"Dx33"H. Let me know which dimension is more important.


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post #23603 of 30671 Old 05-11-2016, 07:06 AM
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^^ how big are the ports? Is the 23" D include the amp in the back? Can it be laid on its side without causing amp heat? Most people don't have problem with height, it's the depth that could be a problem especially for folk planning to place sub behind an AT screen.
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post #23604 of 30671 Old 05-11-2016, 07:08 AM
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^^
The ports are 3-1/2", same as FV15HP. But it is two-port tuned to 12hz. We will not offer 1 port mode operation on this model.


It does not include amp depth. It can be laid side way as we will have criss cut on the heat sink.
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post #23605 of 30671 Old 05-11-2016, 07:15 AM
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^^ thanks. So it's probably 24"D with amp?
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post #23606 of 30671 Old 05-11-2016, 07:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik View Post
FV18 proto type.
I can shave one inch in either height or depth to raise the tuning frequency by 5%. The size is currently 21"Wx23"Dx33"H. Let me know which dimension is more important.
Depth. Smaller footprint
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post #23607 of 30671 Old 05-11-2016, 07:34 AM
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BTW, I like the non brushed aluminum cone better
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post #23608 of 30671 Old 05-11-2016, 07:44 AM
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Depth. Smaller footprint

That seems to be the consensus. That will be handy for FV25 because the tuning of that model is about 10% too low.
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post #23609 of 30671 Old 05-11-2016, 08:02 AM
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I think 3.5" ports might be a bit small and create a lot of chuffing. How about a slotted port? To increase the port area and reduce the velocity plus they add bracing. I think this would work very nice since only one tuning frequency. Or I would like to design a 22" cube that had dual 4" down firing ports that also offers boundary loading with large isolation feet. Something similar to the old av123 mfw-15 or epik pheonix with svsound isolation. Will you be offering DIY kit?

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post #23610 of 30671 Old 05-11-2016, 08:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik View Post
FV18 proto type.


Here is a photo. The driver is also a proto-type as you may notice the cone is not brushed. The production 15" is brushed.


The elbows and ports work very well. The tuning frequency I confirm is now about 5% lower than FV15HP. I can shave one inch in either height or depth to raise the tuning frequency by 5%. The size is currently 21"Wx23"Dx33"H. Let me know which dimension is more important.


Looking good!

Why not just keep it with a 5% lower tune? An inch either way wouldn't be a show stopper I would think...but if I had to choose, definitely depth.

What does a 5% lower tune equate to?
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