Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread - Page 808 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews

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post #24211 of 27157 Old 07-07-2016, 12:50 PM
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I forgot about my new born for 2 weeks after I got my mic.
lol
I assume all is now well.
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post #24212 of 27157 Old 07-07-2016, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post
^^^^ I believe that CSL does recal each unit individually. However, like you said as far as the big picture goes, either option is a huge step up from the measurement tools he has now...
Which is basically zilch - or I guess the just the MCACC calibration, an iPhone app SPL meter, and my ears. So some followup questions:

1. Will I even be able to know how to use it or what to look for or is there somewhere online where I can learn more - I'm always up for learning.

2. I assume the goal is to measure and tweak until i get as close to flat as my speakers and environment will allow, then tweak further for my specific listening. The article I already read gave an example where a specific person was adjusting to try to get to flat, but this person's hearing dropped off at the higher frequencies. So for this person, a flat level wasn't great, but instead a treble boost was ideal at higher volumes. I don't think my receiver lets me boos treble/bass at certain decibals, just an overall treble or bass +/-. So would I really be able to accomplish my ideal levels? Which brings me to my next question.

3. These devices seem to give very accurate readings, but my receiver's manual speaker calibrations aren't very detailed. I can turn each channel up or down, set the crossover, set the distance, and set whether they're small or large. Would I really be able to adjust THAT much that I would hear noticeable improvements? It already sounds awesome, but I'm all for chasing a pot of gold at the end of a rainbow, if there really is one there.

4. Is it possible due to all the hard surfaces, angles walls, etc. in my room that this thing could just get completely whacked out readings and do no good?

Anyways - I took back the SVS Prime Center today and picked up this bad boy. Can't wait to get it home tonight and redo my EQ (with MCACC that is)

Just curious... what made you return the prime center?

And what are your mains (front left and right speakers)?

Last edited by PlasmaPZ80U; 07-07-2016 at 03:04 PM.
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post #24213 of 27157 Old 07-07-2016, 02:57 PM
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For measurement I would get the CSL-calibrated UMIK-1: http://cross-spectrum.com/measuremen...ated_umik.html

CSL calibrates mics individually but does not provide an absolute level correction. You can enter your UMIK-1's serial number on the mniDSP site and get its cal file from them, then type it (the file is plain text and the correction is a line or two at the top) into the CSL cal file and get pretty durn close (need that or REW will not get absolute levels right). As mentioned by others, the UMIK-1 has a lower noise floor, and is more sturdily built than the Dayton UMM-6. CSL was supposedly phasing out the Dayton models but maybe they changed their minds as they are still listed. Note that anything with a miniUSB (or any other, frankly) connector is ultimately doomed to failure; be careful plugging the cable in and out.

The good news for others, and bad for me, is that except for noise floor and max level handling the UMIK-1 provides curves from <10 Hz to over 20 kHz comparable (almost identical) to my $1200 Earthworks measurement mic into a fancy preamp and running professional (expensive) software and all that jazz. REW+CSL is plenty good enough for our use. Too bad I didn't have the REW plus CSL option ten or twenty years ago. I have since switched to using REW and my UMIK-1 for just about everything as it is essentially just as accurate and far more convenient.

You should also spend $30 to get a decent boom mic stand. Something more sturdy than the pencil-legged $10~$20 models that tip over if you sneeze on them.

BTW, do NOT sneeze into the mic.

IME/IMO/FWIWFM/my 0.000001 cent (microcent)/etc. - Don

"After silence, that which best expresses the inexpressible, is music" - Aldous Huxley
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post #24214 of 27157 Old 07-07-2016, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by DonH50 View Post
For measurement I would get the CSL-calibrated UMIK-1: http://cross-spectrum.com/measuremen...ated_umik.html

CSL calibrates mics individually but does not provide an absolute level correction. You can enter your UMIK-1's serial number on the mniDSP site and get its cal file from them, then type it (the file is plain text and the correction is a line or two at the top) into the CSL cal file and get pretty durn close (need that or REW will not get absolute levels right). As mentioned by others, the UMIK-1 has a lower noise floor, and is more sturdily built than the Dayton UMM-6. CSL was supposedly phasing out the Dayton models but maybe they changed their minds as they are still listed. Note that anything with a miniUSB (or any other, frankly) connector is ultimately doomed to failure; be careful plugging the cable in and out.

The good news for others, and bad for me, is that except for noise floor and max level handling the UMIK-1 provides curves from <10 Hz to over 20 kHz comparable (almost identical) to my $1200 Earthworks measurement mic into a fancy preamp and running professional (expensive) software and all that jazz. REW+CSL is plenty good enough for our use. Too bad I didn't have the REW plus CSL option ten or twenty years ago. I have since switched to using REW and my UMIK-1 for just about everything as it is essentially just as accurate and far more convenient.

You should also spend $30 to get a decent boom mic stand. Something more sturdy than the pencil-legged $10~$20 models that tip over if you sneeze on them.

BTW, do NOT sneeze into the mic.

IME/IMO/FWIWFM/my 0.000001 cent (microcent)/etc. - Don
I think I remember reading somewhere the sensitivity parameter is now included in the CSL files.
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post #24215 of 27157 Old 07-07-2016, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post
Just curious... what made you return the prime center?


To be honest I really wanted to CM Center S2 but they didn't have it in stock. They did have an SVS Prime Center so when I bought it, it was definitely an impulse buy and I knew that night I should have waited. I didn't want to have a Frankenstein front setup with a different center. Also I ordered the CMC S2 before i figured out what was causing my center vocals to get drowned out.

Also, I had a $750 budget so I figured I should go for a higher quality speaker. I got the CMC S2 for under $500 and although the SVS Center Prime didn't sound bad, I'm hoping the B&W CMC S2 will sound better. Also the timbre should be closer since it's B&W, albeit not in the same series as my fronts and surrounds.

My Current "Living Room" Home Theater!
Plasma 50" TV: Samsung PN50C8000 — DLP Projector: Optoma GT1080
Projector Screen: Elite VMAX2 Electric — Receiver:Pioneer Elite VSX-44 — Fronts: B&W 684 S1
Center: B&W CM Center S2 — Surrounds: B&W 685 S1 — Subwoofer: Rythmik FV15HP
Rear Surrounds: Polk Audio T15 — Front Heights: Polk Audio T15
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post #24216 of 27157 Old 07-07-2016, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by DonH50 View Post
For measurement I would get the CSL-calibrated UMIK-1: http://cross-spectrum.com/measuremen...ated_umik.html

CSL calibrates mics individually but does not provide an absolute level correction. You can enter your UMIK-1's serial number on the mniDSP site and get its cal file from them, then type it (the file is plain text and the correction is a line or two at the top) into the CSL cal file and get pretty durn close (need that or REW will not get absolute levels right). As mentioned by others, the UMIK-1 has a lower noise floor, and is more sturdily built than the Dayton UMM-6. CSL was supposedly phasing out the Dayton models but maybe they changed their minds as they are still listed. Note that anything with a miniUSB (or any other, frankly) connector is ultimately doomed to failure; be careful plugging the cable in and out.

The good news for others, and bad for me, is that except for noise floor and max level handling the UMIK-1 provides curves from <10 Hz to over 20 kHz comparable (almost identical) to my $1200 Earthworks measurement mic into a fancy preamp and running professional (expensive) software and all that jazz. REW+CSL is plenty good enough for our use. Too bad I didn't have the REW plus CSL option ten or twenty years ago. I have since switched to using REW and my UMIK-1 for just about everything as it is essentially just as accurate and far more convenient.

You should also spend $30 to get a decent boom mic stand. Something more sturdy than the pencil-legged $10~$20 models that tip over if you sneeze on them.

BTW, do NOT sneeze into the mic.

IME/IMO/FWIWFM/my 0.000001 cent (microcent)/etc. - Don
I'm still old school, I guess. I'm still using my Earthworks M30 mic + Apogee Duet for Mac audio interface. My iMac is in the same room as my audio equipment so no need for an USB mic. But I agree, if you don't have an audio interface already then the Dayton USB or the UMIK-1 should be more than you need. As Don said, it's wort to pay the extra $25 and get it from CSL instead of directly from miniDSP site.



Enrico Castagnetti @ Rythmik Audio
Media Room: Polk LSiM705s, LSiM706C, LSiM703s | Rythmik F12SE (x2) | Marantz SR7008 | Parasound Halo P5 | Emotiva XPA-3 & XPA-200 | Oppo 105D | Sony HW40ES |
Desktop: Dynaudio BM5 mkIII | Rythmik L22 | Apogee Quartet + Duet | 27" iMac|
Bedroom: B&W 685 S2 | Rythmik LVX12 | Marantz NR1606 | Emotiva XPA-200 Gen 2 | Samsung UN50JU6500 |
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post #24217 of 27157 Old 07-07-2016, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Blacklightning View Post
My wife still has nightmares of frequency sweeps.
Lol, my house is pretty much tired of that and me replaying the same scene in TF4 tessa run to the field, tessa run to the field, tessa run to the field lmao

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post #24218 of 27157 Old 07-07-2016, 03:48 PM
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Heck, I am an analog guy at a digital company, talk about old school. I have a notebook in my media room but it is way easier to run Dirac Live and REW using the same mic, and I do not have to haul out a preamp for my Earthworks mic (needs phantom power and low-noise gain; the mic pre in my Windows notebook is too noisy, no phantom power, and not enough gain for me). Lazy I am, yes indeed... I have an M30 as well (too cheap to get the M50). I had a very nice B&K or Sennheiser measurement mic years ago but wasn't using it much, and the recal cost was exorbitant, so I sold it and bought the Earthworks years later. My analysis SW works fine but has not been updated for a couple of years so I am also nervous they may quit supporting it. REW does most everything I need to do these days.

CSL will also calibrate your own mic if you send it to them. I don't recall the cost off-hand but is a good option if you already have a mic they can cal and just want more accuracy.

"After silence, that which best expresses the inexpressible, is music" - Aldous Huxley
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post #24219 of 27157 Old 07-08-2016, 06:07 AM
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To my ears, the B&W CMC S2 is noticeably better than the SVS Prime Center. The CMC has clearer highs, and blends in better during the lows (explosions, action, etc.) - especially with the Rythmik LV12R. I'm very happy with the purchase. I know this is the Rythmik Official thread, so I don't want to venture too far off topic, but since all of you have been so helpful for me over the last couple weeks, I wanted to ask if there are any quick suggestions from folks for what rears I should get to replace the HTIB Yamaha Fronts I am currently using for rears? I can get most HiFi speakers at cost from the manufacturers - so keep that in mind. Need these to round out my system. Preferably B&W, though I'm open to other suggestions.
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post #24220 of 27157 Old 07-08-2016, 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Alan P View Post
You can use either of those mics to measure your entire system, however the UMIK-1 is more sturdily built than the UMM-6 (ask me how I know ), as has been pointed out.

A perfectly flat response is preferred by some, but not most. If you look up the Fletcher-Munson curve you will find that most people prefer a "sloping" response. This is a response that rising roughly 3-6dB from 20khz down to 20hz, explaining why most around here tend to run their subs 3-6dB "hot".
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Originally Posted by Blacklightning View Post
This mic is for everything from testing all types of speakers, drivers, room acoustics, bass traps, nulls and peaks, distortion level, group delay, SPL level, etc. You name it and it will test it. It will open up you world to audio. I forgot about my new born for 2 weeks after I got my mic.
Thanks for the info - super helpful. My almost 1 year old definitely wont let me forget about him haha, neither will the wife. But I can see myself getting just as engrossed - I'm somewhat of a perfectionist.

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Originally Posted by DonH50 View Post
For measurement I would get the CSL-calibrated UMIK-1: http://cross-spectrum.com/measuremen...ated_umik.html

CSL calibrates mics individually but does not provide an absolute level correction. You can enter your UMIK-1's serial number on the mniDSP site and get its cal file from them, then type it (the file is plain text and the correction is a line or two at the top) into the CSL cal file and get pretty durn close (need that or REW will not get absolute levels right). As mentioned by others, the UMIK-1 has a lower noise floor, and is more sturdily built than the Dayton UMM-6. CSL was supposedly phasing out the Dayton models but maybe they changed their minds as they are still listed. Note that anything with a miniUSB (or any other, frankly) connector is ultimately doomed to failure; be careful plugging the cable in and out.

The good news for others, and bad for me, is that except for noise floor and max level handling the UMIK-1 provides curves from <10 Hz to over 20 kHz comparable (almost identical) to my $1200 Earthworks measurement mic into a fancy preamp and running professional (expensive) software and all that jazz. REW+CSL is plenty good enough for our use. Too bad I didn't have the REW plus CSL option ten or twenty years ago. I have since switched to using REW and my UMIK-1 for just about everything as it is essentially just as accurate and far more convenient.

You should also spend $30 to get a decent boom mic stand. Something more sturdy than the pencil-legged $10~$20 models that tip over if you sneeze on them.

BTW, do NOT sneeze into the mic.

IME/IMO/FWIWFM/my 0.000001 cent (microcent)/etc. - Don

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Originally Posted by enricoclaudio View Post
I'm still old school, I guess. I'm still using my Earthworks M30 mic + Apogee Duet for Mac audio interface. My iMac is in the same room as my audio equipment so no need for an USB mic. But I agree, if you don't have an audio interface already then the Dayton USB or the UMIK-1 should be more than you need. As Don said, it's wort to pay the extra $25 and get it from CSL instead of directly from miniDSP site.
Also very, very helpful guys - thanks for that.

So here's where I'm at with this. I would love to learn how it all works, and have already began reading on the links from Alan's signature. My issue is spending the money needed to actually buy the equipment. I have a family friend who has a dedicated, awesome home theater in his house - albeit spec'd mostly for music, but also for HT listening. I know he had a professional company come in and not only soundproof but also do audio treatments and noise isolation work. I'm gonna have a chat with him and see who he used, how much something like that costs, etc. Unless any of you fine people live close to South Jersey and want a project The pizza and beer are free
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post #24221 of 27157 Old 07-08-2016, 07:02 AM
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To get started in measurement should be well under $150. REW is free, the CSL-calibrated mic around $100, and a boom mic stand around $30.

If you want to learn how it works regarding room treatment, head over to Ethan Winer's site (www.realtraps.com) and read through the tutorials. There are also DIY articles there and elsewhere. Making absorbers is pretty easy, and if you have time and a little more skill diffusors are well within reach.

Everest's Master Handbook of Acoustics is a decent overview of a lot of things acoustic. I consider it advanced layman/entry engineering level. There's not a lot of math, just algebra if that, and a lot of good descriptions and pictures. There are many other books that may be just as good, this is just one I have used for ages (in addition to everything from basic how-to pamphlets to graduate texts on acoustics with lots of complicated equations using squiggly lines and characters that I have mercifully mostly forgotten ).

Isolation is a different issue, one best solved during construction as after the fact can be a challenge. My media room is pretty well isolated using Kinetics Noise Control IsoMax clips for floating walls and ceiling (basement, floor is concrete) and a miniSplit to keep house HVAC ducts away (those ducts are a major transmission source for frequencies above bass; below you need to isolate adjoining surfaces such as walls, floor, ceiling).

HTH - Don

"After silence, that which best expresses the inexpressible, is music" - Aldous Huxley
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post #24222 of 27157 Old 07-08-2016, 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by citsur86 View Post
To my ears, the B&W CMC S2 is noticeably better than the SVS Prime Center. The CMC has clearer highs, and blends in better during the lows (explosions, action, etc.) - especially with the Rythmik LV12R. I'm very happy with the purchase. I know this is the Rythmik Official thread, so I don't want to venture too far off topic, but since all of you have been so helpful for me over the last couple weeks, I wanted to ask if there are any quick suggestions from folks for what rears I should get to replace the HTIB Yamaha Fronts I am currently using for rears? I can get most HiFi speakers at cost from the manufacturers - so keep that in mind. Need these to round out my system. Preferably B&W, though I'm open to other suggestions.

In general, one wants all the speakers, fronts, center, surrounds and rears to be the same mfg/family in order to match timbre. I am not an audio expert (just a home theater enthusiast), but I would think it most important to match the front three so if your mains are not B&W, you might consider swapping those out first. you don't need worry about the brand of the sub, i.e., you don't need to match your Rythmik - just set the crossover based on your mains.
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post #24223 of 27157 Old 07-08-2016, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by DonH50 View Post
To get started in measurement should be well under $150. REW is free, the CSL-calibrated mic around $100, and a boom mic stand around $30.

If you want to learn how it works regarding room treatment, head over to Ethan Winer's site (www.realtraps.com) and read through the tutorials. There are also DIY articles there and elsewhere. Making absorbers is pretty easy, and if you have time and a little more skill diffusors are well within reach.

Everest's Master Handbook of Acoustics is a decent overview of a lot of things acoustic. I consider it advanced layman/entry engineering level. There's not a lot of math, just algebra if that, and a lot of good descriptions and pictures. There are many other books that may be just as good, this is just one I have used for ages (in addition to everything from basic how-to pamphlets to graduate texts on acoustics with lots of complicated equations using squiggly lines and characters that I have mercifully mostly forgotten ).

Isolation is a different issue, one best solved during construction as after the fact can be a challenge. My media room is pretty well isolated using Kinetics Noise Control IsoMax clips for floating walls and ceiling (basement, floor is concrete) and a miniSplit to keep house HVAC ducts away (those ducts are a major transmission source for frequencies above bass; below you need to isolate adjoining surfaces such as walls, floor, ceiling).

HTH - Don
Yeah - the price isn't too crazy, but I'm already at breaking limits with the wife, having just bought new Surrounds, Center, and Sub. I studied computer and electrical engineering at Rutgers University so I'm fairly competent in the math (though it might need a dusting). Audio treatment in my living room might not fly for reasons of WAF. Unless I can somehow make them not noticeable. Isolation and treatments are likely more for me to consider when I finally get to building my home theater as seen here.
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post #24224 of 27157 Old 07-08-2016, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by tegage View Post
In general, one wants all the speakers, fronts, center, surrounds and rears to be the same mfg/family in order to match timbre. I am not an audio expert (just a home theater enthusiast), but I would think it most important to match the front three so if your mains are not B&W, you might consider swapping those out first. you don't need worry about the brand of the sub, i.e., you don't need to match your Rythmik - just set the crossover based on your mains.
Sorry, I don't think I was clear. My fronts are B&W 684 S1. Surrounds are B&W 685 S1. Center is B&W CM Center S2. Sub is Rythmik LV12R. Rears are what used to be the fronts of an old Yamaha HTIB. So looking to replace those with something, ideally B&W rears (maybe B&W DS3s?)
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Panels can be pretty, and you can even order or make them with pictures on the front. I am lucky to have both an understanding wife (who has been through many iterations through the decades) and a dedicated media room.

Your rear question would best be posted in the B&W thread. Personally I would save and get another pair of 685's for the rears. Well, personally, I stuck with Magnepan MC-1's for my rears to match my surrounds, but if I were going with B&W and had your system I'd get the 685's.

"After silence, that which best expresses the inexpressible, is music" - Aldous Huxley
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Originally Posted by DonH50 View Post
Panels can be pretty, and you can even order or make them with pictures on the front. I am lucky to have both an understanding wife (who has been through many iterations through the decades) and a dedicated media room.

Your rear question would best be posted in the B&W thread. Personally I would save and get another pair of 685's for the rears. Well, personally, I stuck with Magnepan MC-1's for my rears to match my surrounds, but if I were going with B&W and had your system I'd get the 685's.
Gotcha - thanks for the reply. 685s might be a bit overkill for rears - maybe 686's. Anyways - you're right, I'll wait for some of the B&W Owner's Thread folks to reply. Back to the Rythmik conversation! haha
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post #24227 of 27157 Old 07-08-2016, 09:38 AM
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Bass is so clean and i feel it in my body, it really adds a new 'dimension' to the music i love, Rythmik 4Life


Receiver - Sony STR-DH550
Fronts - Klipsch Reference Premiere RP-280F
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post #24228 of 27157 Old 07-08-2016, 09:43 AM
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Gotcha - thanks for the reply. 685s might be a bit overkill for rears - maybe 686's. Anyways - you're right, I'll wait for some of the B&W Owner's Thread folks to reply. Back to the Rythmik conversation! haha
Maybe... There is still a lot of 5.1 stuff and my system sends essentially the same info to the rears as to the surrounds, and similar content to the rears in 7.1 though the rears are used less often for the most part in 7.1. Based on that I prefer to match them though it probably does not matter all that much. OTOH I'm not sure "overkill" has any place in audio-land...

"After silence, that which best expresses the inexpressible, is music" - Aldous Huxley
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post #24229 of 27157 Old 07-08-2016, 09:59 AM
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....OTOH I'm not sure "overkill" has any place in audio-land...
True story there! If I had unlimited budget, I would grab another 3 LV12Rs and have them in each corner of my living room. Although, this would require a receiver upgrade lol.
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post #24230 of 27157 Old 07-08-2016, 11:51 AM
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It took several years but four F12's have now taken up residence in my media room. Not in the corners, though, out a bit where they provide the best response. In my small'ish room the -3 dB point is around 7 Hz. Nothing like a little room gain to give you an extra octave down low.

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post #24231 of 27157 Old 07-08-2016, 12:46 PM
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It took several years but four F12's have now taken up residence in my media room. Not in the corners, though, out a bit where they provide the best response. In my small'ish room the -3 dB point is around 7 Hz. Nothing like a little room gain to give you an extra octave down low.


That's crazy good performance for a 12" sub, due in no small part to careful setup and positioning.


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post #24232 of 27157 Old 07-09-2016, 10:40 AM
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So here's where I'm at with this. I would love to learn how it all works, and have already began reading on the links from Alan's signature. My issue is spending the money needed to actually buy the equipment. I have a family friend who has a dedicated, awesome home theater in his house - albeit spec'd mostly for music, but also for HT listening. I know he had a professional company come in and not only soundproof but also do audio treatments and noise isolation work. I'm gonna have a chat with him and see who he used, how much something like that costs, etc. Unless any of you fine people live close to South Jersey and want a project The pizza and beer are free
Professional audio calibration is going to probably be in the $300 to $400 range at least. It can be a time intensive process. And if you make any modifications to your room or speaker placement, guess what? You need to get it recalibrated. It's far better and cheaper to figure out how to do it yourself unless you have a dedicated room where you want someone to set it up completely and then never modify it again.
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post #24233 of 27157 Old 07-09-2016, 10:42 AM
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Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread

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Professional audio calibration is going to probably be in the $300 to $400 range at least. It can be a time intensive process. And if you make any modifications to your room or speaker placement, guess what? You need to get it recalibrated. It's far better and cheaper to figure out how to do it yourself unless you have a dedicated room where you want someone to set it up completely and then never modify it again.


Yeah definitely going to hold off on this for a while. The system sounds great as is. As an aside, today I added a couple additions which may or may not bring my HT to new heights. too bad I can't figure out how to get the speaker wire to them through that external wall with insulation in it. For the moment they're just hanging there until I can figure it out.



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My Current "Living Room" Home Theater!
Plasma 50" TV: Samsung PN50C8000 — DLP Projector: Optoma GT1080
Projector Screen: Elite VMAX2 Electric — Receiver:Pioneer Elite VSX-44 — Fronts: B&W 684 S1
Center: B&W CM Center S2 — Surrounds: B&W 685 S1 — Subwoofer: Rythmik FV15HP
Rear Surrounds: Polk Audio T15 — Front Heights: Polk Audio T15
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post #24234 of 27157 Old 07-09-2016, 11:17 AM
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Yeah definitely going to hold off on this for a while. The system sounds great as is. As an aside, today I added a couple additions which may or may not bring my HT to new heights. too bad I can't figure out how to get the speaker wire to them through that external wall with insulation in it. For the moment they're just hanging there until I can figure it out.



I assume you are referring to the height speakers IF it were my decision, at least temporarily I'd run the wires up behind the towers, snake it into the window opening and out from the valence to the speakers, a very short run showing. I'd try painting the wire to match the wall...

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post #24235 of 27157 Old 07-09-2016, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by citsur86 View Post
So here's where I'm at with this. I would love to learn how it all works, and have already began reading on the links from Alan's signature. My issue is spending the money needed to actually buy the equipment. I have a family friend who has a dedicated, awesome home theater in his house - albeit spec'd mostly for music, but also for HT listening. I know he had a professional company come in and not only soundproof but also do audio treatments and noise isolation work. I'm gonna have a chat with him and see who he used, how much something like that costs, etc. Unless any of you fine people live close to South Jersey and want a project The pizza and beer are free
Professional audio calibration is going to probably be in the $300 to $400 range at least. It can be a time intensive process. And if you make any modifications to your room or speaker placement, guess what? You need to get it recalibrated. It's far better and cheaper to figure out how to do it yourself unless you have a dedicated room where you want someone to set it up completely and then never modify it again.
+1 on doing it yourself... I don't like the idea of not being able to change things afterwards... plus I'm one of those people who if I don't do it myself I'm not happy with the end result.

(I discovered this with professional video calibration services a while back.)
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post #24236 of 27157 Old 07-09-2016, 12:10 PM
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Yeah definitely going to hold off on this for a while. The system sounds great as is. As an aside, today I added a couple additions which may or may not bring my HT to new heights. too bad I can't figure out how to get the speaker wire to them through that external wall with insulation in it. For the moment they're just hanging there until I can figure it out.



I can't stand seeing cables outside the wall. I'd make a 2"x4" hole behind the speaker and another one at floor level and with a fiberglass fishing stick just fish the speaker wire. Of course with a stud finder make sure you don't have horizontal studs all the way from top to bottom. Then finish the holes with 2x4 electrical boxes and single brush wall plates.

https://www.amazon.com/GE-87697-Sing...8087697&sr=1-6



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Media Room: Polk LSiM705s, LSiM706C, LSiM703s | Rythmik F12SE (x2) | Marantz SR7008 | Parasound Halo P5 | Emotiva XPA-3 & XPA-200 | Oppo 105D | Sony HW40ES |
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post #24237 of 27157 Old 07-09-2016, 12:27 PM
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Another option is to move the speakers closer to the windows corners and run the the speakers wires inside the window's frame then bring the wires out the windows as soon you reach the front speakers. Moving the speakers closer to the windows it won't make the sound any different.

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Enrico Castagnetti @ Rythmik Audio
Media Room: Polk LSiM705s, LSiM706C, LSiM703s | Rythmik F12SE (x2) | Marantz SR7008 | Parasound Halo P5 | Emotiva XPA-3 & XPA-200 | Oppo 105D | Sony HW40ES |
Desktop: Dynaudio BM5 mkIII | Rythmik L22 | Apogee Quartet + Duet | 27" iMac|
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post #24238 of 27157 Old 07-09-2016, 12:36 PM
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Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread

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Another option is to move the speakers closer to the windows corners and run the the speakers wires inside the window's frame then bring the wires out the windows as soon you reach the front speakers. Moving the speakers closer to the windows it won't make the sound any different.




I actually just have a wire run to the window for now. My father in law is going to come over tomorrow and help me run them through the wall. I just had to temporarily set it up to test it out. Holy crap! I'm watching master and commander right now with PLIIz enabled and the difference is pretty amazing. Only thing that worries me is that the MCACC EQ set the following



The sub was -12 but I tapped it up a bit. I'm assuming the system is compensating for the much smaller and weaker front heights by tuning down the much larger center and fronts. So i guess this makes sense. It's equalizing the volumes right? Any issue anyone sees? Like i said it sounds amazing and I guess that's what really matters.


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Plasma 50" TV: Samsung PN50C8000 — DLP Projector: Optoma GT1080
Projector Screen: Elite VMAX2 Electric — Receiver:Pioneer Elite VSX-44 — Fronts: B&W 684 S1
Center: B&W CM Center S2 — Surrounds: B&W 685 S1 — Subwoofer: Rythmik FV15HP
Rear Surrounds: Polk Audio T15 — Front Heights: Polk Audio T15
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post #24239 of 27157 Old 07-09-2016, 12:43 PM
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I can't stand seeing cables outside the wall. I'd make a 2"x4" hole behind the speaker and another one at floor level and with a fiberglass fishing stick just fish the speaker wire. Of course with a stud finder make sure you don't have horizontal studs all the way from top to bottom. Then finish the holes with 2x4 electrical boxes and single brush wall plates.



https://www.amazon.com/GE-87697-Sing...8087697&sr=1-6


This is exactly what I'll be doing tomorrow. For now I just have it run into the window temporarily because I couldn't wait to test it haha. Tomorrow it'll be clean again. I'm surprised how much of an impact these front heights make! It kind of sucks that my receiver can't play 9.1 so I have to choose between the front heights or the rears. And if I want to switch it's not as easy as just changing 1 setting. I have to then re EQ

My Current "Living Room" Home Theater!
Plasma 50" TV: Samsung PN50C8000 — DLP Projector: Optoma GT1080
Projector Screen: Elite VMAX2 Electric — Receiver:Pioneer Elite VSX-44 — Fronts: B&W 684 S1
Center: B&W CM Center S2 — Surrounds: B&W 685 S1 — Subwoofer: Rythmik FV15HP
Rear Surrounds: Polk Audio T15 — Front Heights: Polk Audio T15
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post #24240 of 27157 Old 07-09-2016, 05:14 PM
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Fishing speaker wire thru walls is easy. Just use a wire fish tape. Put speaker junction plate behind speaker using drywall saw as shown earlier. Drill small hole thru baseboard and a larger hole with a circular hole saw above it. Run speaker write thru small hole in baseboard, run fish tape down from top hole behind speaker, attach speaker wire to fish tape via the larger hole above baseboard and pull write thru wall. Take sheetrock out of hole saw and patch lower wall. Nice clean look.

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