Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread - Page 823 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #24661 of 26286 Old 07-27-2016, 06:38 PM
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Picking up my two FM8s tomorrow afternoon. Looking forward to see what they do to mid bass. Still trying to decide on final bookshelf selections, but initially will be running stereo F15HPs, FM8s, and Klipsch RP-160Ms. Going to be interesting to see how much dorking around it takes with REW to get decent curves, but hoping for some nice 50-150ish Hz slam from the FM8s.
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post #24662 of 26286 Old 07-27-2016, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by budeliao View Post
Picking up my two FM8s tomorrow afternoon. Looking forward to see what they do to mid bass. Still trying to decide on final bookshelf selections, but initially will be running stereo F15HPs, FM8s, and Klipsch RP-160Ms. Going to be interesting to see how much dorking around it takes with REW to get decent curves, but hoping for some nice 50-150ish Hz slam from the FM8s.
How are you planning to tie in the mid-bass (FM8) with the Klipsch RP-160M and subs? Does your receiver/pre/pro allow active electronic crossover selection/pre-outs for your setup?

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post #24663 of 26286 Old 07-28-2016, 05:31 AM
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Ok, so I ALMOST have my sub sounding great. This is what I did.

I moved it back to the original location which is left of the front stage, 4 feet from the left wall and now only 13 inches from the back wall. I looked at the phase control on my sub and noticed it was set to 90. I turned it to 0 and the volume to 50%. I turned DynEQ on and reran the Audyssey setup. The first pass it didnt find my sub. This is odd because previously I never received this message and it automatically set my sub to -12db, which I think was the main issue. The second pass my sub was found and I went ahead and ran through all 8 tests. I have a camera tripod, so I was able to get the perfect height on each location. After setup, I checked all the settings. My list is from memory. There may be some things I forgot.

Sub is now at -3.5 db (much better)
Crossover says 80hz for everything except the surrounds. They are set to 60hz. Is this odd to have those different?
All speakers were set to SMALL.

My test scene is always the campus scene on The Incredible Hulk. The bass was much more noticeable and pressurized my room quite well without any further tweaks past what I listed above. When I find some more time this weekend, Im going to follow some other suggestions about pushing the DB a bit more etc.
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Last edited by thinksmartpc; 07-28-2016 at 07:03 AM.
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post #24664 of 26286 Old 07-28-2016, 06:32 AM
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How are you planning to tie in the mid-bass (FM8) with the Klipsch RP-160M and subs? Does your receiver/pre/pro allow active electronic crossover selection/pre-outs for your setup?
Still trying to figure out the final solution, but will start with F15HPs on LFE, L and R pre-outs thru external analog x-over to Adcom GFA-555 driving the RP-160Ms and the FM8s. If I can get satisfactory sound I will look at a miniDSP solution. I'm not so keen on putting signals thru A/D-D/A, but reading your posts that seems to be working well in your setup.

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post #24665 of 26286 Old 07-28-2016, 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by thinksmartpc View Post
Ok, so I ALMOST have my sub sounding great. This is what I did.

I moved it back to the original location which is left of the front stage, 4 feet from the left wall and now only 13 inches from the back wall. I looked at the phase control on my sub and noticed it was set to 90. I turned it to 0 and the volume to 50%. I turned DynEQ on and reran the Audyssey setup. The first pass it didnt find my sub. This is odd because previously I never received this message and it automatically set my sub to -12db, which I think was the main issue. The second pass my sub was found and I went ahead and ran through all 8 tests. I have a camera tripod, so I was able to get the perfect height on each location. After setup, I checked all the settings. My list is from memory. There may be some things I forgot.

Sub is now at -3.5 db (much better)
Crossover says 80hz for everything except the surrounds. They are set to 60hz. Is this odd to have those different?
All speakers were set to SMALL.

My test scene is always the campus scene on The Incredible Hulk. The bass was much more noticeable and pressurized my room quite well without any further tweaks past what I listed above. When I find some more time this weekend. Im going to follow some other suggestions about pushing the DB a bit more etc.
Glad to hear it
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post #24666 of 26286 Old 07-28-2016, 06:49 AM
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At this point I am seriously thinking I inadvertently did some damage to my LV12R at the beginning of Edge of Tomorrow. It's rattling quite a bit now during MCACC, sweeps (even at -22db and MCACC EQ at -6db on receiver), and during movie watching at much lower volumes than i was before during LFE parts. Am I SOL or what?

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Surrounds: B&W 685 S1 — Subwoofer: Rhythmic FV15HP
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post #24667 of 26286 Old 07-28-2016, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by citsur86 View Post
At this point I am seriously thinking I inadvertently did some damage to my LV12R at the beginning of Edge of Tomorrow. It's rattling quite a bit now during MCACC, sweeps (even at -22db and MCACC EQ at -6db on receiver), and during movie watching at much lower volumes than i was before during LFE parts. Am I SOL or what?
Push the center of the cone and listen for a metallic noise. If the metallic noise is present then the driver is bad. Also, if you can, make a recording of the rattling noise and send it to me and Brian so we can listen to it and find out what the problem is.



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Media Room: Polk LSiM705s, LSiM706C, LSiM703s | Rythmik F12SE (x2) | Marantz SR7008 | Parasound Halo P5 | Emotiva XPA-3 & XPA-200 | Oppo 105D | Sony HW40ES |
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post #24668 of 26286 Old 07-28-2016, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by citsur86 View Post
At this point I am seriously thinking I inadvertently did some damage to my LV12R at the beginning of Edge of Tomorrow. It's rattling quite a bit now during MCACC, sweeps (even at -22db and MCACC EQ at -6db on receiver), and during movie watching at much lower volumes than i was before during LFE parts. Am I SOL or what?
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post #24669 of 26286 Old 07-28-2016, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by citsur86 View Post
At this point I am seriously thinking I inadvertently did some damage to my LV12R at the beginning of Edge of Tomorrow. It's rattling quite a bit now during MCACC, sweeps (even at -22db and MCACC EQ at -6db on receiver), and during movie watching at much lower volumes than i was before during LFE parts. Am I SOL or what?
What subs have you had in the past?
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post #24670 of 26286 Old 07-28-2016, 10:16 AM
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What subs have you had in the past?
Just a Yamaha HTIB sub which I actually never used - just left it off.

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post #24671 of 26286 Old 07-28-2016, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by citsur86 View Post
At this point I am seriously thinking I inadvertently did some damage to my LV12R at the beginning of Edge of Tomorrow. It's rattling quite a bit now during MCACC, sweeps (even at -22db and MCACC EQ at -6db on receiver), and during movie watching at much lower volumes than i was before during LFE parts. Am I SOL or what?
Normally I'd say I'd be suprised if you could hurt that sub but with that stupid scene/intro anything is possible.

It's kinda cool I guess to demo but that intro is just plain stupid and dangerous.

120db at 10hz cmon......

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post #24672 of 26286 Old 07-28-2016, 10:26 AM
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Normally I'd say I'd be suprised if you could hurt that sub but with that stupid scene/intro anything is possible.

It's kinda cool I guess to demo but that intro is just plain stupid and dangerous.

120db at 10hz cmon......
Completely agree! Like why the heck would they put that stupid tone in there when it can ruin expensive equipment?! Maybe I shouldn't have been running the sub as hot as i was, but I had watched a whole bunch of movies known for LFE up until that point with no problem, so how would I know that some random tone that plays, before the movie even starts mind you, would blow a fuse and damage my sub. Not 100% at this point whether it's damaged, but I am thinking it is. The rattles its making were NOT there before this happened. https://1drv.ms/u/s!AqCwvEUzj5tPn2oZ6-DggICC5QIY"]Listen here.

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post #24673 of 26286 Old 07-28-2016, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by citsur86 View Post
Completely agree! Like why the heck would they put that stupid tone in there when it can ruin expensive equipment?! Maybe I shouldn't have been running the sub as hot as i was, but I had watched a whole bunch of movies known for LFE up until that point with no problem, so how would I know that some random tone that plays, before the movie even starts mind you, would blow a fuse and damage my sub. Not 100% at this point whether it's damaged, but I am thinking it is. The rattles its making were NOT there before this happened. https://1drv.ms/u/s!AqCwvEUzj5tPn2oZ6-DggICC5QIY"]Listen here.
Ya if I'm hearing that correctly something definatly sounds off.

That's another problem with that scene is that it's right at the beginning with no warning of how loud it will be.

Don't blame it on the lv12r as it is one heck of a sub! Could happen to any subwoofer.

I played my lv12r a couple weeks ago pretty hard. All the sudden I heard a bunch of rattling and thought something blew. Turns out an old popcorn kernel got in there somehow.

Anyway it might sound silly and idk if you have kids but make sure nothing got into the port

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post #24674 of 26286 Old 07-28-2016, 11:39 AM
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Completely agree! Like why the heck would they put that stupid tone in there when it can ruin expensive equipment?! Maybe I shouldn't have been running the sub as hot as i was, but I had watched a whole bunch of movies known for LFE up until that point with no problem, so how would I know that some random tone that plays, before the movie even starts mind you, would blow a fuse and damage my sub. Not 100% at this point whether it's damaged, but I am thinking it is. The rattles its making were NOT there before this happened. https://1drv.ms/u/s!AqCwvEUzj5tPn2oZ6-DggICC5QIY"]Listen here.
I listened to it, same for Brian and we agree that it could be also the amp. The fact that the amp blew a fuse during that scene is an indication that something went wrong with the amp. If you push the driver cone and there is no rattling noise then most probably is the amp. You can also check inside to see if there is a loose wire touching the braces. We cover the wires with polyfill but sometimes the polyfill get loose and the wires touch the braces or even the back of the cone making that kind of weird noises, most after a scene like the one from EOT. Feel free to take the driver out of the box and check inside. You can also test the driver with your front speakers wires and if you get sound with no rattling then the driver is fine.



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Media Room: Polk LSiM705s, LSiM706C, LSiM703s | Rythmik F12SE (x2) | Marantz SR7008 | Parasound Halo P5 | Emotiva XPA-3 & XPA-200 | Oppo 105D | Sony HW40ES |
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post #24675 of 26286 Old 07-28-2016, 11:43 AM
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I listened to it, same for Brian and we agree that it could be also the amp. The fact that the amp blew a fuse during that scene is an indication that something went wrong with the amp. If you push the driver cone and there is no rattling noise then most probably is the amp. You can also check inside to see if there is a lose wire touching the braces. We cover the wires with polyfill but sometimes the polyfill get lose and the wires touch the braces or even the back of the cone making that kind of weird noises, most after a scene like the one from EOT. Feel free to take the driver out of the box and check inside. You can also test the driver with your front speakers wires and if you get sound with no rattling then the driver is fine.
I'll do this as soon as I get home. The Amp didn't blow a fuse, the subwoofer did. Where you plug the power into the back of the subwoofer, I found that little compartment under it and when i pulled it out I saw that it was that Fuse that was blown. I noticed this yesterday as I was about to take the back off to look at the driver. I had a bunch of screws out at this point. I actually never took the back off because I noticed this compartment and the blown fuse before I got all the screws out. Come to think of it, a couple of the smaller middle screws did not "catch" when i tried to put them back in, the ones around the outside of the back plate definitely did, so the plate is definitely secure. Any idea why those middle screws felt like they were just turning in place when I tried to screw them back in?

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===========================================
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Fronts: B&W 684 S1 — Center: B&W CM Center S2
Surrounds: B&W 685 S1 — Subwoofer: Rhythmic FV15HP
Rear Surrounds: Polk Audio T15 — Front Heights: Polk Audio T15
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post #24676 of 26286 Old 07-28-2016, 11:48 AM
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The Amp didn't blow a fuse, the subwoofer did.
You should pm him or, even better, talk on the phone
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post #24677 of 26286 Old 07-28-2016, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post
You should pm him or, even better, talk on the phone
Sure - was writing it here in case others were able to help as well, but I can take it offline from this thread.

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===========================================
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Fronts: B&W 684 S1 — Center: B&W CM Center S2
Surrounds: B&W 685 S1 — Subwoofer: Rhythmic FV15HP
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post #24678 of 26286 Old 07-28-2016, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enricoclaudio View Post
I listened to it, same for Brian and we agree that it could be also the amp. The fact that the amp blew a fuse during that scene is an indication that something went wrong with the amp. If you push the driver cone and there is no rattling noise then most probably is the amp. You can also check inside to see if there is a lose wire touching the braces. We cover the wires with polyfill but sometimes the polyfill get lose and the wires touch the braces or even the back of the cone making that kind of weird noises, most after a scene like the one from EOT. Feel free to take the driver out of the box and check inside. You can also test the driver with your front speakers wires and if you get sound with no rattling then the driver is fine.
I'll do this as soon as I get home. The Amp didn't blow a fuse, the subwoofer did. Where you plug the power into the back of the subwoofer, I found that little compartment under it and when i pulled it out I saw that it was that Fuse that was blown. I noticed this yesterday as I was about to take the back off to look at the driver. I had a bunch of screws out at this point. I actually never took the back off because I noticed this compartment and the blown fuse before I got all the screws out. Come to think of it, a couple of the smaller middle screws did not "catch" when i tried to put them back in, the ones around the outside of the back plate definitely did, so the plate is definitely secure. Any idea why those middle screws felt like they were just turning in place when I tried to screw them back in?
He's referring to the sub plate amp, not the amps in your AVR. The AVR sub pre-out doesn't power the subwoofer cone, the sub plate amp does.
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post #24679 of 26286 Old 07-28-2016, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by citsur86 View Post
The Amp didn't blow a fuse, the subwoofer did.
You should pm him or, even better, talk on the phone
Quote:
Originally Posted by citsur86 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post
You should pm him or, even better, talk on the phone
Sure - was writing it here in case others were able to help as well, but I can take it offline from this thread.
Nothing wrong with updating us of the situation here, but be sure to talk directly to Brian and Enrico so you can get this issue sorted out.
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post #24680 of 26286 Old 07-28-2016, 12:12 PM
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Sure - was writing it here in case others were able to help as well, but I can take it offline from this thread.
Also this happened to be and it turned out to be the mental spike feets which are a pain in the butt because they rattle out of place if not screwed in with the strength of the hulk😂 so if anything check that to make sure.

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post #24681 of 26286 Old 07-28-2016, 12:14 PM
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Nothing wrong with updating us of the situation here, but be sure to talk directly to Brian and Enrico so you can get this issue sorted out.
Just talked to Brian who was very helpful - we have an action plan now - seems I may have loosened a screw or two from the middle of the amp plate not realizing it wasn't holding the amp on (sub amp, got it, duh on me). That screw has a nut on the other side which may have fallen into the woofer. When I get home I'll be trying to take the amp out, find the nuts, remount, and see how we do.
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Fronts: B&W 684 S1 — Center: B&W CM Center S2
Surrounds: B&W 685 S1 — Subwoofer: Rhythmic FV15HP
Rear Surrounds: Polk Audio T15 — Front Heights: Polk Audio T15
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post #24682 of 26286 Old 07-28-2016, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by MrGrey View Post
Also this happened to be and it turned out to be the mental spike feets which are a pain in the butt because they rattle out of place if not screwed in with the strength of the hulk😂 so if anything check that to make sure.

Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk

Just have my sub on the carpet - no metal feet
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Surrounds: B&W 685 S1 — Subwoofer: Rhythmic FV15HP
Rear Surrounds: Polk Audio T15 — Front Heights: Polk Audio T15
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post #24683 of 26286 Old 07-28-2016, 12:26 PM
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Those middle screws hold the big transformer and they have nuts on the inside so either a nut went inside the driver basket or the transformer is loose and causing the rattling noise.
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post #24684 of 26286 Old 07-28-2016, 12:27 PM
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Just talked to Brian who was very helpful - we have an action plan now - seems I may have loosened a screw or two from the middle of the amp plate not realizing it wasn't holding the amp on (sub amp, got it, duh on me). That screw has a nut on the other side which may have fallen into the woofer. When I get home I'll be trying to take the amp out, find the nuts, remount, and see how we do.
I thought something sounded like a rattle rather then a blown driver or anything.

Let's hope it's just a nut! Shouldn't be to hard to track down
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post #24685 of 26286 Old 07-28-2016, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post
Nothing wrong with updating us of the situation here, but be sure to talk directly to Brian and Enrico so you can get this issue sorted out.
Just talked to Brian who was very helpful - we have an action plan now - seems I may have loosened a screw or two from the middle of the amp plate not realizing it wasn't holding the amp on (sub amp, got it, duh on me). That screw has a nut on the other side which may have fallen into the woofer. When I get home I'll be trying to take the amp out, find the nuts, remount, and see how we do.
Good luck, sounds like something easy to fix.
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post #24686 of 26286 Old 07-28-2016, 01:55 PM
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Rythmik Setup Guides

Well, I've taken the plunge - I'm joining team Rythmik. I have a sub (FV15HP) on the way, my old sub has been sold, and I'm looking ahead to the set up process.

I've been looking for all the Rythmik specific setup documentation that I can find in this thread and on the Rythmik site. So far I've found, in addition to various posts I've bookmarked over the last month or two of watching the thread, the following guides:

laulau's guide
Guides from Enrico/Rythmik here

Are there any other Rythmik specific setup docs that anyone would recommend?
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post #24687 of 26286 Old 07-28-2016, 03:15 PM
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I think laulau's guide is all you need. It covers basically all Rythmik models, Audyssey and REW as well. One of the most important parts is the subwoofer crawl. There is no external DSP or room correction system capable to fix a bad subwoofer location.
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Enrico Castagnetti @ Rythmik Audio
Media Room: Polk LSiM705s, LSiM706C, LSiM703s | Rythmik F12SE (x2) | Marantz SR7008 | Parasound Halo P5 | Emotiva XPA-3 & XPA-200 | Oppo 105D | Sony HW40ES |
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post #24688 of 26286 Old 07-28-2016, 03:50 PM
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@thinksmartpc here is what my back panel looks like.
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post #24689 of 26286 Old 07-28-2016, 05:10 PM
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@thinksmartpc here is what my back panel looks like.
Nice to see the limiter is now separate from the power switch.

By the way, that's a lot of knobs and switches. The compact amp is much simpler.
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post #24690 of 26286 Old 07-28-2016, 05:40 PM
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Nice to see the limiter is now separate from the power switch.

By the way, that's a lot of knobs and switches. The compact amp is much simpler.
The Limiter is in a separate switch only on XLR2 and XLR3 amps. PEQ3 amp still has the Limiter on the Power switch.



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Media Room: Polk LSiM705s, LSiM706C, LSiM703s | Rythmik F12SE (x2) | Marantz SR7008 | Parasound Halo P5 | Emotiva XPA-3 & XPA-200 | Oppo 105D | Sony HW40ES |
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