Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread - Page 841 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #25201 of 26266 Old 08-17-2016, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by citsur86 View Post
That looks pretty tight cirsur. I'd get some active cooling on your AVR ASAP...and remove the entire back of the cabinet if at all possible (I'm assuming the doors are closed most times).
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post #25202 of 26266 Old 08-17-2016, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Alan P View Post
That looks pretty tight cirsur. I'd get some active cooling on your AVR ASAP...and remove the entire back of the cabinet if at all possible (I'm assuming the doors are closed most times).
Yes they are. Can't really remove the back because of how it fits together with the unit. I was considering getting some fans for in there, but it's been like that for almost 2 years without issues. It gets a bit hot when playing movies, but I've had no issues with it at all. Maybe I should get a cooling fan just in case.

My Current "Living Room" Home Theater!
===========================================
Receiver:Pioneer Elite VSX-44
Fronts: B&W 684 S1 — Center: B&W CM Center S2
Surrounds: B&W 685 S1 — Subwoofer: Rhythmic FV15HP
Rear Surrounds: Polk Audio T15 — Front Heights: Polk Audio T15
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post #25203 of 26266 Old 08-17-2016, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by citsur86 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonH50 View Post
PEQ = Parametric EQualizer. It is a one-band EQ that allows you to adjust gain, center frequency, and width (Q) of the equalizer. Probably not needed with an AVR but I have found it helpful. Inactive in LFE mode.

I leave my subs on with the limiter engaged, switching them off via a relay (X10 appliance module) driven from my AVR's trigger circuit. I have not heard anything bad from the limiter and it can save the sub (and ears) from mayhem if something bad should happen (dropped stylus, accidentally turning on the system with the volume cranked, etc.)

If you are using an AVR with the line input, it will handle the phase so leave it at 0 deg. Start with the crossover at max, make sure your main speakers are rolled off approriately (typically around 80 Hz). Set the volume so that you are in the middle of the AVR's sub trim range or a little below (say maybe -5 to 0 dB). That is a reasonable gain setting for noise and distortion whilst providing a little headroom to boost the bass if you wish. Note you only need a single SUB/LFE cable from AVR to either L or R input in the vast majority of systems. Using both provides more input signal, but no more output (assuming your AVR can drive to full scale), so is helpful if the sub's gain has to be set at or near max to get the AVR's sub trim near 0.

High-level inputs are for speaker inputs if you don't have an AVR with a subwoofer output. I assume you do. Don't worry about them.

AVR/12 or 80/24 are probably good settings; I would start with AVR/12. I prefer high damping; you may want medium or low if you like a lot of bass. Easy to switch and see.

You can download the instruction sheet from the website.

FWIWFM - Don
Thanks Don for the info. So PEQ settings only will be active if I use Line In. Guess whether or not I need this will depend on how my response looks in REW off the bat, but since I have a 2x4 HD that can do 10 bands of PEQ, I probably wouldn't use this eh?

I thought in order to use limiter the Auto On setting has to be chosen? I was planning on just using that unless there is some reason I shouldn't.


Set the volume so that you are in the middle of the AVR's sub trim range or a little below (say maybe -5 to 0 dB). That is a reasonable gain setting for noise and distortion whilst providing a little headroom to boost the bass if you wish.


Not exactly sure what you mean here. What is the AVR's sub trim range and how do I find it?
AVR sub trim is the subwoofer level in dB set by MCACC. When people say trims and delays in the AVR they mean the level and distance settings.

BTW, the rumble filter setting should match the ports open... that is very important.

As for Line In vs. LFE inputs, you now have 2 of each, so should using one only force you to max out sw gain knob with MiniDSP 2x4 HD, you can use both LFE inputs. And then I would likely place a 120Hz 24dB per octave LPF into the REW EQ tool target line to clean up the SQ while maintaining the stuff up to 120Hz or so.

The only thing about this PEQ3 amp I don't like is you must use auto power to keep limiter on, so if you have issues with the sub turning on automatically, you may need to up sw trim and/or use both connectors (y adapter) so that the sub gets enough voltage to turn on.
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post #25204 of 26266 Old 08-17-2016, 10:00 AM
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Post 20178 show my video of EoT at reference volume with +6db subs hot on my FV15 pair.

Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread
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post #25205 of 26266 Old 08-17-2016, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by citsur86 View Post
Yes they are. Can't really remove the back because of how it fits together with the unit. I was considering getting some fans for in there, but it's been like that for almost 2 years without issues. It gets a bit hot when playing movies, but I've had no issues with it at all. Maybe I should get a cooling fan just in case.
I use this. Works great!


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post #25206 of 26266 Old 08-17-2016, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by JT78681 View Post
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Originally Posted by basshead81 View Post
If you read on data-bass.com, JR mentions most ported alignments he can get to produce port chuffing when driving the sub's into full compression. The FV15 actually starts exhibiting this before being at it's limits in 1 port. JR states 2 port being superior to 1 port for the increased head room and port volume.
Yep, I read that. I think most folks purchase this sub because of it's extension. For me when I tried to port mode and took measurements my subs jumped off of a cliff under 20hz. Every room is different though and to each his own.
Could it be the 18dB per octave rumble filter? 2 port mode is likely getting rid of that stuff on purpose to better utilize power for 20Hz and up.
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post #25207 of 26266 Old 08-17-2016, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by citsur86 View Post
Yes they are. Can't really remove the back because of how it fits together with the unit. I was considering getting some fans for in there, but it's been like that for almost 2 years without issues. It gets a bit hot when playing movies, but I've had no issues with it at all. Maybe I should get a cooling fan just in case.
I use a computer fan with a usb connection to my Denon AVR. it sits on top of my Denon. I believe Enrico is doing the same thing.
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post #25208 of 26266 Old 08-17-2016, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post
AVR sub trim is the subwoofer level in dB set by MCACC. When people say trims and delays in the AVR they mean the level and distance settings.

BTW, the rumble filter setting should match the ports open... that is very important.

As for Line In vs. LFE inputs, you now have 2 of each, so should using one only force you to max out sw gain knob with MiniDSP 2x4 HD, you can use both LFE inputs. And then I would likely place a 120Hz 24dB per octave LPF into the REW EQ tool target line to clean up the SQ while maintaining the stuff up to 120Hz or so.

The only thing about this PEQ3 amp I don't like is you must use auto power to keep limiter on, so if you have issues with the sub turning on automatically, you may need to up sw trim and/or use both connectors (y adapter) so that the sub gets enough voltage to turn on.
Well - luckily I already picked up a slitter for the Line In, so I suppose I could just use it for the LFE if I need both inputs. Given that I have the 2x4 HD, I don't think there would possibly be a case for me to use Line In vs. LFE input.

My Current "Living Room" Home Theater!
===========================================
Receiver:Pioneer Elite VSX-44
Fronts: B&W 684 S1 — Center: B&W CM Center S2
Surrounds: B&W 685 S1 — Subwoofer: Rhythmic FV15HP
Rear Surrounds: Polk Audio T15 — Front Heights: Polk Audio T15
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post #25209 of 26266 Old 08-17-2016, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by tvuong View Post
I use a computer fan with a usb connection to my Denon AVR. it sits on top of my Denon. I believe Enrico is doing the same thing.
Any suggestions on one to get? Maybe this?

My Current "Living Room" Home Theater!
===========================================
Receiver:Pioneer Elite VSX-44
Fronts: B&W 684 S1 — Center: B&W CM Center S2
Surrounds: B&W 685 S1 — Subwoofer: Rhythmic FV15HP
Rear Surrounds: Polk Audio T15 — Front Heights: Polk Audio T15
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post #25210 of 26266 Old 08-17-2016, 10:30 AM
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Thank you everyone for all the replies. I'll broach the subject of the L22 with my wife tonight. Perhaps the fact that it looks more like a tower may appeal to her. Enrico, how long will the current pricing on the L22 be in effect?
Until the inventory is gone. Right now we have plenty in stock so my guess is two or three months, at least.



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Media Room: Polk LSiM705s, LSiM706C, LSiM703s | Rythmik F12SE (x2) | Marantz SR7008 | Parasound Halo P5 | Emotiva XPA-3 & XPA-200 | Oppo 105D | Sony HW40ES |
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post #25211 of 26266 Old 08-17-2016, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by rcohen View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by citsur86 View Post
Yup, and I wouldn't even say that the LV12R wasn't enough for me, it definitely puts out some serious bass. I just decided I wanted lower extension.

Here's a question for the group. Does a flat (or close to flat) LFE EQ result in better sounding bass for music than for HT? I've noticed over the last few nights as my wife and I have watched some Disney classics with our 1 year old that the musical parts of the movies, say in Aladdin, have well pronounced bass kicks, while the movie itself has more of a rumble bass feel to it. Or is this just the way the two differentiate for the most part (HT and Music)?
There's a different curve that sounds best with every recording, but that's hardly practical.
Loud tends to sound good, so you tend to bring out your favorite sounds from a particular track.
You just have to settle on a good average for the stuff you listen to.

I have found, though, that fancy EQ tools that give you the ability to precisely shape the curve can make a big difference.
I wanted satisfying and tight sounding bass kicks, without making male voices sound unnaturally resonant, and without getting headaches.
I just couldn't do it until I had something to really fine tune the curve. (In my case, Dirac.)
I'm finding this to be the case too, I used to just EQ the sub completely flat in REW, but now I see that with a 24dB per octave roll off somewhere in the 100Hz to 120Hz region I can get my sub's actual frequency response at the top end track the 24dB per octave roll off very smoothly/precisely. This makes the LFE channel very punchy and smooth at the same time.

I realize this is essentially like adjusting the LPF for LFE, but in more precise terms with the target line and measures response matching very closely. I don't know for sure but I think my Yamaha AVR has a fixed 120Hz 24dB per octave LPF for LFE (but no setting for adjusting it in the menus).

I wonder if newer, high Yamahas do have the LPF for LFE adjustable...
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post #25212 of 26266 Old 08-17-2016, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by tvuong View Post
I use a computer fan with a usb connection to my Denon AVR. it sits on top of my Denon. I believe Enrico is doing the same thing.
Yes, I have been using a pair of fans on top of my receivers since 2008 (originally with my Onkyo SR876). Last month I replaced the fans with a pair of THESE. They are more quiet and run over USB power.



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Media Room: Polk LSiM705s, LSiM706C, LSiM703s | Rythmik F12SE (x2) | Marantz SR7008 | Parasound Halo P5 | Emotiva XPA-3 & XPA-200 | Oppo 105D | Sony HW40ES |
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post #25213 of 26266 Old 08-17-2016, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by enricoclaudio View Post
Yes, I have been using a pair of fans on top of my receivers since 2008 (originally with my Onkyo SR876). Last month I replaced the fans with a pair of THESE. They are more quiet and run over USB power.


Not to go too far off topic, but would these be effective for me since they are 1.85" tall (laying on top of receiver) and I have about 2.5" clearance as you can see in the photo here?:


My Current "Living Room" Home Theater!
===========================================
Receiver:Pioneer Elite VSX-44
Fronts: B&W 684 S1 — Center: B&W CM Center S2
Surrounds: B&W 685 S1 — Subwoofer: Rhythmic FV15HP
Rear Surrounds: Polk Audio T15 — Front Heights: Polk Audio T15
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post #25214 of 26266 Old 08-17-2016, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by citsur86 View Post
Not to go too far off topic, but would these be effective for me since they are 1.85" tall (laying on top of receiver) and I have about 2.5" clearance as you can see in the photo here?:

You can put the fans on the back of the receiver, same way I have them in my bedroom setup.
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Media Room: Polk LSiM705s, LSiM706C, LSiM703s | Rythmik F12SE (x2) | Marantz SR7008 | Parasound Halo P5 | Emotiva XPA-3 & XPA-200 | Oppo 105D | Sony HW40ES |
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@MrGrey

I am the one who made that video.
I know 😃 I just couldn't tag in the app I'm using.

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Last edited by MrGrey; 08-17-2016 at 11:24 AM.
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post #25216 of 26266 Old 08-17-2016, 11:25 AM
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@citsur86

Whenever you get all setup I encourage you to tinker around with the dampening settings to see what sounds best to you. I typically keep mine at high just because I don't want to wake the baby up.

If I have first time listeners over and I want to show off and have them grinning I flip the switch to low to get that full body bass. However, before I started using high I typically left it at mid as I feel it's a great compromise between high and low.

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post #25217 of 26266 Old 08-17-2016, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by JT78681 View Post
@citsur86

Whenever you get all setup I encourage you to tinker around with the dampening settings to see what sounds best to you. I typically keep mine at high just because I don't want to wake the baby up.

If I have first time listeners over and I want to show off and have them grinning I flip the switch to low to get that full body bass. However, before I started using high I typically left it at mid as I feel it's a great compromise between high and low.
Good point - I'll experiment with that. Ever change the extension frequency along with the damping?

My Current "Living Room" Home Theater!
===========================================
Receiver:Pioneer Elite VSX-44
Fronts: B&W 684 S1 — Center: B&W CM Center S2
Surrounds: B&W 685 S1 — Subwoofer: Rhythmic FV15HP
Rear Surrounds: Polk Audio T15 — Front Heights: Polk Audio T15
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post #25218 of 26266 Old 08-17-2016, 12:14 PM
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15hp makes a decent end table.
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post #25219 of 26266 Old 08-17-2016, 12:25 PM
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PEQ3 vs XLR2

Hi guys,

What's the difference between PEQ3 vs XLR2. Do I loose any functionality if I go with XLR2? Can I use same cables and everything with XLR2?

Thanks!
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post #25220 of 26266 Old 08-17-2016, 12:38 PM
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15hp makes a decent end table.
Haha! Nice! That is how mine will be too. I noticed you have the back open to some open space, do you do anything to cover the cables/amp controls in the back? I ask because my wife is not big on having them open to the kitchen so I was trying to figure out if there's a way to cover them.

My Current "Living Room" Home Theater!
===========================================
Receiver:Pioneer Elite VSX-44
Fronts: B&W 684 S1 — Center: B&W CM Center S2
Surrounds: B&W 685 S1 — Subwoofer: Rhythmic FV15HP
Rear Surrounds: Polk Audio T15 — Front Heights: Polk Audio T15
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post #25221 of 26266 Old 08-17-2016, 12:55 PM
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Hi guys,

What's the difference between PEQ3 vs XLR2. Do I loose any functionality if I go with XLR2? Can I use same cables and everything with XLR2?

Thanks!
PEQ3 is more like XLR3. XLR2 is more like the PEQ. If you have a receiver with subwoofer out then go with the PEQ3/XLR3. The PEQ/XLR2 is for those running stereo setups, daisy chain or need HPF out.



Enrico Castagnetti @ Rythmik Audio
Media Room: Polk LSiM705s, LSiM706C, LSiM703s | Rythmik F12SE (x2) | Marantz SR7008 | Parasound Halo P5 | Emotiva XPA-3 & XPA-200 | Oppo 105D | Sony HW40ES |
Desktop: Dynaudio BM5 mkIII | Rythmik L22 | Apogee Duet | 27" iMac|
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post #25222 of 26266 Old 08-17-2016, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by citsur86 View Post
Haha! Nice! That is how mine will be too. I noticed you have the back open to some open space, do you do anything to cover the cables/amp controls in the back? I ask because my wife is not big on having them open to the kitchen so I was trying to figure out if there's a way to cover them.
I dont have it covered which is a concern if I have a drink on the table and it spills. I have an electrical outlet in my floor so my power cable is routed under my sofa to the sub. The sub cable is routed under my area rug. maybe I should think about making a custom awning for the back of the sub to protect amp from spills/drips. I just tell wife to keep drinks towards front of sub, but she really never drinks or eats when on sofa.

screwing on a black mesh wire tray might be an option.

https://www.amazon.com/OfficeMax-Mes...mesh+wire+tray

Power: Marantz sr7008, NAD C 275Bee x 2, Video: Oppo 103, Samsung 75un6300
Speakers: Focal aria 948, Focal cc800v, Klipsch synergy KSF 10.5 Subs: Velodyne HGS 12, VA 1512, Rythmik FV15HP

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post #25223 of 26266 Old 08-17-2016, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by torii View Post
I dont have it covered which is a concern if I have a drink on the table and it spills. I have an electrical outlet in my floor so my power cable is routed under my sofa to the sub. The sub cable is routed under my area rug. maybe I should think about making a custom awning for the back of the sub to protect amp from spills/drips. I just tell wife to keep drinks towards front of sub, but she really never drinks or eats when on sofa.

screwing on a black mesh wire tray might be an option.

https://www.amazon.com/OfficeMax-Mes...mesh+wire+tray


Hmm that wouldn't help if something spills towards the back. Don't drinks rattle and fall off? Haha

My Current "Living Room" Home Theater!
===========================================
Receiver:Pioneer Elite VSX-44
Fronts: B&W 684 S1 — Center: B&W CM Center S2
Surrounds: B&W 685 S1 — Subwoofer: Rhythmic FV15HP
Rear Surrounds: Polk Audio T15 — Front Heights: Polk Audio T15
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post #25224 of 26266 Old 08-17-2016, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by citsur86 View Post
Hmm that wouldn't help if something spills towards the back. Don't drinks rattle and fall off? Haha

yea, if I did that route I would spray some sealant on the top...just throwing stuff out there. I only crank up the system when she isnt home. during movies, it hasnt been a problem.

Power: Marantz sr7008, NAD C 275Bee x 2, Video: Oppo 103, Samsung 75un6300
Speakers: Focal aria 948, Focal cc800v, Klipsch synergy KSF 10.5 Subs: Velodyne HGS 12, VA 1512, Rythmik FV15HP
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post #25225 of 26266 Old 08-17-2016, 01:15 PM
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@citsur86

Damn you already changed your avatar? Lol you must be pumped. I am lucky in that I live in the same town as Rythmik, so I got to go pick up mine the same day I decided to purchase.

Display - LG 65EF9500
Receiver - Denon 4311CI
Speakers - Klipsch RF-82 II's, RC-62 II, RB-61 II's
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post #25226 of 26266 Old 08-17-2016, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by JT78681 View Post
@citsur86

You must be pumped you already changed your avatar lol nice....
You have no idea! This next week or so is going to be the longest wait ever haha. Avatar change was more because i was getting tired of my ugly mug being plastered all over this place haha

My Current "Living Room" Home Theater!
===========================================
Receiver:Pioneer Elite VSX-44
Fronts: B&W 684 S1 — Center: B&W CM Center S2
Surrounds: B&W 685 S1 — Subwoofer: Rhythmic FV15HP
Rear Surrounds: Polk Audio T15 — Front Heights: Polk Audio T15
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post #25227 of 26266 Old 08-17-2016, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by enricoclaudio View Post
Check on min 10.30.

FVX15 Review
and the reviewer says 'more than the PSA has ever done' after he played that EoT clip. That is the beauty of a 12Hz tuned sub. He also reviewed the PSA S1500 and V1500 which costs more than the FVX15.
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post #25228 of 26266 Old 08-17-2016, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by citsur86 View Post
You have no idea! This next week or so is going to be the longest wait ever haha. Avatar change was more because i was getting tired of my ugly mug being plastered all over this place haha
Yeah you do post alot...

I have a picture of my Supra for the same reason.
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post #25229 of 26266 Old 08-17-2016, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by citsur86 View Post
Any suggestions on one to get? Maybe this?
I echo Alan's suggestion above. Here is what I wrote on the Denon4520CI board post #13411:

"I worked in the electronics industry here in Silicon Valley for 40 years. Some of that time was related to the military. Silicon components typically have two failure humps. The first hump occurs in the first 1,000 hours. For every 10*C rise in junction temperature the time is cut in half, so 10*C higher the hump come in to 500 hours and going to a still safe higher temp the burn in time can be reduced considerably which the IC manufacturers did on a qualified line so they greatly reduced early failures which you don't want happening on a mission.

One might choose to run new audio/video equipment at an elevated temp to see if it will break early in the warranty period...

Once past what is called infant mortality hump, that first hump, the next cluster of failures occur around 10,000 hours and we don't want to pull that one in but keep it as far out as possible. There are also random failures which we can't do much about but maybe hotter temperatures increase those events also. For units that do not experience either of those two failure humps can have a very long life.

Knowing what I do I put active cooling in place from day one on my 4520: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Receiver-Amp...kAAOSw7ThUpJJJ I like this unit as it is thermostatically controlled and if the unit is above the temperature setting the fans continue to run even after I shut the AVR down. I see no reason to let it continue to "bake" any longer than it has to.

As a side note I had to pull plenty of printed circuit boards and clean the contacts with an eraser and reinsert them to fix various problems... All those circuit boards had gold plated contacts to avoid corrosion and there were still problems at times. In some applications mechanical contacts, such as plug in circuit boards or ICs in sockets, were not allowed. Mechanical connections are a weak link.

Alan P, batpig and bmcn like this."

I know its a small thing but any power draw necessary to run a USB fan is just more power for the AVR to dissipate. You can call me overly cautious and I won't mind, to each his or her own . It would be a small percentage of the overall power consumption of the AVR.

Take care,
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Regards, Ken (Retired)
9.1) Denon 4520CI; Samsung 55H8000 & BD-F7500; L/R SVS Ultra BS, Ultra Center;
RS Celestion 5; FH & SS Polk; Klipsch R-12SW; CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD (x2)
2.1 Ch.) Nakamichi RE-2, CDC-4A, CR7A, Denon 300F/Ortofon 2M Bronze;
ADS L1290(x2); PINNACLE BABYBOOMER SUB, PANAMAX MR4300
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post #25230 of 26266 Old 08-17-2016, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by citsur86 View Post
Haha! Nice! That is how mine will be too. I noticed you have the back open to some open space, do you do anything to cover the cables/amp controls in the back? I ask because my wife is not big on having them open to the kitchen so I was trying to figure out if there's a way to cover them.
IF there is enough clearance I wonder if a grill could be adapted for it... Drill in the mounting holes and, depending on ability to do so, figure out a way for cable clearance out the bottom of the grill, not through it.

Might need a right angle RCA adapter to reduce how far the audio cable sticks out https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-R...ngle+connector and for the power https://www.amazon.com/CablesOnline-...ower+connector or another if 10Amp capability is not enough(I didn't look beyond the cable to which I pointed)... just a thought.

Of course if you drill into the box you are stuck with the sub so I wouldn't take that approach until I was sure. I would also entertaining asking Rythmik to do it if I was absolutely sure

Regards, Ken (Retired)
9.1) Denon 4520CI; Samsung 55H8000 & BD-F7500; L/R SVS Ultra BS, Ultra Center;
RS Celestion 5; FH & SS Polk; Klipsch R-12SW; CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD (x2)
2.1 Ch.) Nakamichi RE-2, CDC-4A, CR7A, Denon 300F/Ortofon 2M Bronze;
ADS L1290(x2); PINNACLE BABYBOOMER SUB, PANAMAX MR4300
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