Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread - Page 841 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #25201 of 28072 Old 08-17-2016, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by JT78681 View Post
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Originally Posted by basshead81 View Post
If you read on data-bass.com, JR mentions most ported alignments he can get to produce port chuffing when driving the sub's into full compression. The FV15 actually starts exhibiting this before being at it's limits in 1 port. JR states 2 port being superior to 1 port for the increased head room and port volume.
Yep, I read that. I think most folks purchase this sub because of it's extension. For me when I tried to port mode and took measurements my subs jumped off of a cliff under 20hz. Every room is different though and to each his own.
Could it be the 18dB per octave rumble filter? 2 port mode is likely getting rid of that stuff on purpose to better utilize power for 20Hz and up.
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post #25202 of 28072 Old 08-17-2016, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by citsur86 View Post
Yes they are. Can't really remove the back because of how it fits together with the unit. I was considering getting some fans for in there, but it's been like that for almost 2 years without issues. It gets a bit hot when playing movies, but I've had no issues with it at all. Maybe I should get a cooling fan just in case.
I use a computer fan with a usb connection to my Denon AVR. it sits on top of my Denon. I believe Enrico is doing the same thing.
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post #25203 of 28072 Old 08-17-2016, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post
AVR sub trim is the subwoofer level in dB set by MCACC. When people say trims and delays in the AVR they mean the level and distance settings.

BTW, the rumble filter setting should match the ports open... that is very important.

As for Line In vs. LFE inputs, you now have 2 of each, so should using one only force you to max out sw gain knob with MiniDSP 2x4 HD, you can use both LFE inputs. And then I would likely place a 120Hz 24dB per octave LPF into the REW EQ tool target line to clean up the SQ while maintaining the stuff up to 120Hz or so.

The only thing about this PEQ3 amp I don't like is you must use auto power to keep limiter on, so if you have issues with the sub turning on automatically, you may need to up sw trim and/or use both connectors (y adapter) so that the sub gets enough voltage to turn on.
Well - luckily I already picked up a slitter for the Line In, so I suppose I could just use it for the LFE if I need both inputs. Given that I have the 2x4 HD, I don't think there would possibly be a case for me to use Line In vs. LFE input.

My Current "Living Room" Home Theater!
Plasma 50" TV: Samsung PN50C8000 — DLP Projector: Optoma GT1080
Projector Screen: Elite VMAX2 Electric — Receiver:Pioneer Elite VSX-44 — Fronts: B&W 684 S1
Center: B&W CM Center S2 — Surrounds: B&W 685 S1 — Subwoofer: Rythmik FV15HP
Rear Surrounds: Polk Audio T15 — Front Heights: Polk Audio T15
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post #25204 of 28072 Old 08-17-2016, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by tvuong View Post
I use a computer fan with a usb connection to my Denon AVR. it sits on top of my Denon. I believe Enrico is doing the same thing.
Any suggestions on one to get? Maybe this?

My Current "Living Room" Home Theater!
Plasma 50" TV: Samsung PN50C8000 — DLP Projector: Optoma GT1080
Projector Screen: Elite VMAX2 Electric — Receiver:Pioneer Elite VSX-44 — Fronts: B&W 684 S1
Center: B&W CM Center S2 — Surrounds: B&W 685 S1 — Subwoofer: Rythmik FV15HP
Rear Surrounds: Polk Audio T15 — Front Heights: Polk Audio T15
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post #25205 of 28072 Old 08-17-2016, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by woster402 View Post
Thank you everyone for all the replies. I'll broach the subject of the L22 with my wife tonight. Perhaps the fact that it looks more like a tower may appeal to her. Enrico, how long will the current pricing on the L22 be in effect?
Until the inventory is gone. Right now we have plenty in stock so my guess is two or three months, at least.



Enrico Castagnetti @ Rythmik Audio
Media Room: Ascend Acoustics Sierra Towers w/ RAAL, Horizon w/ RAAL & Sierra 2s | Rythmik F12SE (x2) | Marantz SR7008 | Parasound Halo P5 | Emotiva XPA-3 & XPA-200 | Oppo 105D | Sony HW40ES |
Desktop: Dynaudio BM5 mkIII | Rythmik L22 | Apogee Quartet | 27" iMac|
Bedroom: B&W 685 S2 | Rythmik LVX12 | Marantz NR1606 | Emotiva XPA-200 Gen 2 | Samsung UN50JU6500 |
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post #25206 of 28072 Old 08-17-2016, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by rcohen View Post
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Originally Posted by citsur86 View Post
Yup, and I wouldn't even say that the LV12R wasn't enough for me, it definitely puts out some serious bass. I just decided I wanted lower extension.

Here's a question for the group. Does a flat (or close to flat) LFE EQ result in better sounding bass for music than for HT? I've noticed over the last few nights as my wife and I have watched some Disney classics with our 1 year old that the musical parts of the movies, say in Aladdin, have well pronounced bass kicks, while the movie itself has more of a rumble bass feel to it. Or is this just the way the two differentiate for the most part (HT and Music)?
There's a different curve that sounds best with every recording, but that's hardly practical.
Loud tends to sound good, so you tend to bring out your favorite sounds from a particular track.
You just have to settle on a good average for the stuff you listen to.

I have found, though, that fancy EQ tools that give you the ability to precisely shape the curve can make a big difference.
I wanted satisfying and tight sounding bass kicks, without making male voices sound unnaturally resonant, and without getting headaches.
I just couldn't do it until I had something to really fine tune the curve. (In my case, Dirac.)
I'm finding this to be the case too, I used to just EQ the sub completely flat in REW, but now I see that with a 24dB per octave roll off somewhere in the 100Hz to 120Hz region I can get my sub's actual frequency response at the top end track the 24dB per octave roll off very smoothly/precisely. This makes the LFE channel very punchy and smooth at the same time.

I realize this is essentially like adjusting the LPF for LFE, but in more precise terms with the target line and measures response matching very closely. I don't know for sure but I think my Yamaha AVR has a fixed 120Hz 24dB per octave LPF for LFE (but no setting for adjusting it in the menus).

I wonder if newer, high Yamahas do have the LPF for LFE adjustable...
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post #25207 of 28072 Old 08-17-2016, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by tvuong View Post
I use a computer fan with a usb connection to my Denon AVR. it sits on top of my Denon. I believe Enrico is doing the same thing.
Yes, I have been using a pair of fans on top of my receivers since 2008 (originally with my Onkyo SR876). Last month I replaced the fans with a pair of THESE. They are more quiet and run over USB power.



Enrico Castagnetti @ Rythmik Audio
Media Room: Ascend Acoustics Sierra Towers w/ RAAL, Horizon w/ RAAL & Sierra 2s | Rythmik F12SE (x2) | Marantz SR7008 | Parasound Halo P5 | Emotiva XPA-3 & XPA-200 | Oppo 105D | Sony HW40ES |
Desktop: Dynaudio BM5 mkIII | Rythmik L22 | Apogee Quartet | 27" iMac|
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post #25208 of 28072 Old 08-17-2016, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by enricoclaudio View Post
Yes, I have been using a pair of fans on top of my receivers since 2008 (originally with my Onkyo SR876). Last month I replaced the fans with a pair of THESE. They are more quiet and run over USB power.


Not to go too far off topic, but would these be effective for me since they are 1.85" tall (laying on top of receiver) and I have about 2.5" clearance as you can see in the photo here?:


My Current "Living Room" Home Theater!
Plasma 50" TV: Samsung PN50C8000 — DLP Projector: Optoma GT1080
Projector Screen: Elite VMAX2 Electric — Receiver:Pioneer Elite VSX-44 — Fronts: B&W 684 S1
Center: B&W CM Center S2 — Surrounds: B&W 685 S1 — Subwoofer: Rythmik FV15HP
Rear Surrounds: Polk Audio T15 — Front Heights: Polk Audio T15
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post #25209 of 28072 Old 08-17-2016, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by citsur86 View Post
Not to go too far off topic, but would these be effective for me since they are 1.85" tall (laying on top of receiver) and I have about 2.5" clearance as you can see in the photo here?:

You can put the fans on the back of the receiver, same way I have them in my bedroom setup.
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Media Room: Ascend Acoustics Sierra Towers w/ RAAL, Horizon w/ RAAL & Sierra 2s | Rythmik F12SE (x2) | Marantz SR7008 | Parasound Halo P5 | Emotiva XPA-3 & XPA-200 | Oppo 105D | Sony HW40ES |
Desktop: Dynaudio BM5 mkIII | Rythmik L22 | Apogee Quartet | 27" iMac|
Bedroom: B&W 685 S2 | Rythmik LVX12 | Marantz NR1606 | Emotiva XPA-200 Gen 2 | Samsung UN50JU6500 |
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post #25210 of 28072 Old 08-17-2016, 12:09 PM
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@MrGrey

I am the one who made that video.
I know 😃 I just couldn't tag in the app I'm using.

Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk

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Fronts - Klipsch Reference Premiere RP-280F
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- Klipsch Reference Premiere RP-450C
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Sub - Rythmik FV15HP

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post #25211 of 28072 Old 08-17-2016, 12:25 PM
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@citsur86

Whenever you get all setup I encourage you to tinker around with the dampening settings to see what sounds best to you. I typically keep mine at high just because I don't want to wake the baby up.

If I have first time listeners over and I want to show off and have them grinning I flip the switch to low to get that full body bass. However, before I started using high I typically left it at mid as I feel it's a great compromise between high and low.

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post #25212 of 28072 Old 08-17-2016, 12:44 PM
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@citsur86

Whenever you get all setup I encourage you to tinker around with the dampening settings to see what sounds best to you. I typically keep mine at high just because I don't want to wake the baby up.

If I have first time listeners over and I want to show off and have them grinning I flip the switch to low to get that full body bass. However, before I started using high I typically left it at mid as I feel it's a great compromise between high and low.
Good point - I'll experiment with that. Ever change the extension frequency along with the damping?

My Current "Living Room" Home Theater!
Plasma 50" TV: Samsung PN50C8000 — DLP Projector: Optoma GT1080
Projector Screen: Elite VMAX2 Electric — Receiver:Pioneer Elite VSX-44 — Fronts: B&W 684 S1
Center: B&W CM Center S2 — Surrounds: B&W 685 S1 — Subwoofer: Rythmik FV15HP
Rear Surrounds: Polk Audio T15 — Front Heights: Polk Audio T15
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post #25213 of 28072 Old 08-17-2016, 01:14 PM
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15hp makes a decent end table.
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Power: Marantz sr7008, NAD C 275Bee x 2, Video: Oppo 103, Samsung 75un6300
Speakers: Focal aria 948, Focal cc900, Klipsch synergy KSF 10.5 Subs: Velodyne HGS 12, VA 1512, Rythmik FV15HP
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post #25214 of 28072 Old 08-17-2016, 01:25 PM
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PEQ3 vs XLR2

Hi guys,

What's the difference between PEQ3 vs XLR2. Do I loose any functionality if I go with XLR2? Can I use same cables and everything with XLR2?

Thanks!
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post #25215 of 28072 Old 08-17-2016, 01:38 PM
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15hp makes a decent end table.
Haha! Nice! That is how mine will be too. I noticed you have the back open to some open space, do you do anything to cover the cables/amp controls in the back? I ask because my wife is not big on having them open to the kitchen so I was trying to figure out if there's a way to cover them.

My Current "Living Room" Home Theater!
Plasma 50" TV: Samsung PN50C8000 — DLP Projector: Optoma GT1080
Projector Screen: Elite VMAX2 Electric — Receiver:Pioneer Elite VSX-44 — Fronts: B&W 684 S1
Center: B&W CM Center S2 — Surrounds: B&W 685 S1 — Subwoofer: Rythmik FV15HP
Rear Surrounds: Polk Audio T15 — Front Heights: Polk Audio T15
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post #25216 of 28072 Old 08-17-2016, 01:55 PM
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Hi guys,

What's the difference between PEQ3 vs XLR2. Do I loose any functionality if I go with XLR2? Can I use same cables and everything with XLR2?

Thanks!
PEQ3 is more like XLR3. XLR2 is more like the PEQ. If you have a receiver with subwoofer out then go with the PEQ3/XLR3. The PEQ/XLR2 is for those running stereo setups, daisy chain or need HPF out.



Enrico Castagnetti @ Rythmik Audio
Media Room: Ascend Acoustics Sierra Towers w/ RAAL, Horizon w/ RAAL & Sierra 2s | Rythmik F12SE (x2) | Marantz SR7008 | Parasound Halo P5 | Emotiva XPA-3 & XPA-200 | Oppo 105D | Sony HW40ES |
Desktop: Dynaudio BM5 mkIII | Rythmik L22 | Apogee Quartet | 27" iMac|
Bedroom: B&W 685 S2 | Rythmik LVX12 | Marantz NR1606 | Emotiva XPA-200 Gen 2 | Samsung UN50JU6500 |
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post #25217 of 28072 Old 08-17-2016, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by citsur86 View Post
Haha! Nice! That is how mine will be too. I noticed you have the back open to some open space, do you do anything to cover the cables/amp controls in the back? I ask because my wife is not big on having them open to the kitchen so I was trying to figure out if there's a way to cover them.
I dont have it covered which is a concern if I have a drink on the table and it spills. I have an electrical outlet in my floor so my power cable is routed under my sofa to the sub. The sub cable is routed under my area rug. maybe I should think about making a custom awning for the back of the sub to protect amp from spills/drips. I just tell wife to keep drinks towards front of sub, but she really never drinks or eats when on sofa.

screwing on a black mesh wire tray might be an option.

https://www.amazon.com/OfficeMax-Mes...mesh+wire+tray

Power: Marantz sr7008, NAD C 275Bee x 2, Video: Oppo 103, Samsung 75un6300
Speakers: Focal aria 948, Focal cc900, Klipsch synergy KSF 10.5 Subs: Velodyne HGS 12, VA 1512, Rythmik FV15HP

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post #25218 of 28072 Old 08-17-2016, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by torii View Post
I dont have it covered which is a concern if I have a drink on the table and it spills. I have an electrical outlet in my floor so my power cable is routed under my sofa to the sub. The sub cable is routed under my area rug. maybe I should think about making a custom awning for the back of the sub to protect amp from spills/drips. I just tell wife to keep drinks towards front of sub, but she really never drinks or eats when on sofa.

screwing on a black mesh wire tray might be an option.

https://www.amazon.com/OfficeMax-Mes...mesh+wire+tray


Hmm that wouldn't help if something spills towards the back. Don't drinks rattle and fall off? Haha

My Current "Living Room" Home Theater!
Plasma 50" TV: Samsung PN50C8000 — DLP Projector: Optoma GT1080
Projector Screen: Elite VMAX2 Electric — Receiver:Pioneer Elite VSX-44 — Fronts: B&W 684 S1
Center: B&W CM Center S2 — Surrounds: B&W 685 S1 — Subwoofer: Rythmik FV15HP
Rear Surrounds: Polk Audio T15 — Front Heights: Polk Audio T15
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post #25219 of 28072 Old 08-17-2016, 02:15 PM
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Hmm that wouldn't help if something spills towards the back. Don't drinks rattle and fall off? Haha

yea, if I did that route I would spray some sealant on the top...just throwing stuff out there. I only crank up the system when she isnt home. during movies, it hasnt been a problem.

Power: Marantz sr7008, NAD C 275Bee x 2, Video: Oppo 103, Samsung 75un6300
Speakers: Focal aria 948, Focal cc900, Klipsch synergy KSF 10.5 Subs: Velodyne HGS 12, VA 1512, Rythmik FV15HP
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post #25220 of 28072 Old 08-17-2016, 02:15 PM
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@citsur86

Damn you already changed your avatar? Lol you must be pumped. I am lucky in that I live in the same town as Rythmik, so I got to go pick up mine the same day I decided to purchase.

Display - LG OLED
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post #25221 of 28072 Old 08-17-2016, 02:17 PM
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@citsur86

You must be pumped you already changed your avatar lol nice....
You have no idea! This next week or so is going to be the longest wait ever haha. Avatar change was more because i was getting tired of my ugly mug being plastered all over this place haha

My Current "Living Room" Home Theater!
Plasma 50" TV: Samsung PN50C8000 — DLP Projector: Optoma GT1080
Projector Screen: Elite VMAX2 Electric — Receiver:Pioneer Elite VSX-44 — Fronts: B&W 684 S1
Center: B&W CM Center S2 — Surrounds: B&W 685 S1 — Subwoofer: Rythmik FV15HP
Rear Surrounds: Polk Audio T15 — Front Heights: Polk Audio T15
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post #25222 of 28072 Old 08-17-2016, 02:18 PM
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Check on min 10.30.

FVX15 Review
and the reviewer says 'more than the PSA has ever done' after he played that EoT clip. That is the beauty of a 12Hz tuned sub. He also reviewed the PSA S1500 and V1500 which costs more than the FVX15.
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post #25223 of 28072 Old 08-17-2016, 02:19 PM
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You have no idea! This next week or so is going to be the longest wait ever haha. Avatar change was more because i was getting tired of my ugly mug being plastered all over this place haha
Yeah you do post alot...

I have a picture of my Supra for the same reason.
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post #25224 of 28072 Old 08-17-2016, 02:44 PM
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Any suggestions on one to get? Maybe this?
I echo Alan's suggestion above. Here is what I wrote on the Denon4520CI board post #13411:

"I worked in the electronics industry here in Silicon Valley for 40 years. Some of that time was related to the military. Silicon components typically have two failure humps. The first hump occurs in the first 1,000 hours. For every 10*C rise in junction temperature the time is cut in half, so 10*C higher the hump come in to 500 hours and going to a still safe higher temp the burn in time can be reduced considerably which the IC manufacturers did on a qualified line so they greatly reduced early failures which you don't want happening on a mission.

One might choose to run new audio/video equipment at an elevated temp to see if it will break early in the warranty period...

Once past what is called infant mortality hump, that first hump, the next cluster of failures occur around 10,000 hours and we don't want to pull that one in but keep it as far out as possible. There are also random failures which we can't do much about but maybe hotter temperatures increase those events also. For units that do not experience either of those two failure humps can have a very long life.

Knowing what I do I put active cooling in place from day one on my 4520: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Receiver-Amp...kAAOSw7ThUpJJJ I like this unit as it is thermostatically controlled and if the unit is above the temperature setting the fans continue to run even after I shut the AVR down. I see no reason to let it continue to "bake" any longer than it has to.

As a side note I had to pull plenty of printed circuit boards and clean the contacts with an eraser and reinsert them to fix various problems... All those circuit boards had gold plated contacts to avoid corrosion and there were still problems at times. In some applications mechanical contacts, such as plug in circuit boards or ICs in sockets, were not allowed. Mechanical connections are a weak link.

Alan P, batpig and bmcn like this."

I know its a small thing but any power draw necessary to run a USB fan is just more power for the AVR to dissipate. You can call me overly cautious and I won't mind, to each his or her own . It would be a small percentage of the overall power consumption of the AVR.

Take care,
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Regards, Ken (Retired)
9.1) Denon 4520CI; Samsung 55H8000 & BD-F7500; L/R SVS Ultra BS, Ultra Center;
RS Celestion 5; FH & SS Polk; Rythmik F12; CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD (x2)
2.1 Ch.) Nakamichi RE-1, CDC-4A, CR7A, Denon 300F/Ortofon 2M Bronze;
ADS L1290(x2); PINNACLE BABYBOOMER SUB, PANAMAX MR4300
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post #25225 of 28072 Old 08-17-2016, 03:10 PM
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Haha! Nice! That is how mine will be too. I noticed you have the back open to some open space, do you do anything to cover the cables/amp controls in the back? I ask because my wife is not big on having them open to the kitchen so I was trying to figure out if there's a way to cover them.
IF there is enough clearance I wonder if a grill could be adapted for it... Drill in the mounting holes and, depending on ability to do so, figure out a way for cable clearance out the bottom of the grill, not through it.

Might need a right angle RCA adapter to reduce how far the audio cable sticks out https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-R...ngle+connector and for the power https://www.amazon.com/CablesOnline-...ower+connector or another if 10Amp capability is not enough(I didn't look beyond the cable to which I pointed)... just a thought.

Of course if you drill into the box you are stuck with the sub so I wouldn't take that approach until I was sure. I would also entertaining asking Rythmik to do it if I was absolutely sure

Regards, Ken (Retired)
9.1) Denon 4520CI; Samsung 55H8000 & BD-F7500; L/R SVS Ultra BS, Ultra Center;
RS Celestion 5; FH & SS Polk; Rythmik F12; CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD (x2)
2.1 Ch.) Nakamichi RE-1, CDC-4A, CR7A, Denon 300F/Ortofon 2M Bronze;
ADS L1290(x2); PINNACLE BABYBOOMER SUB, PANAMAX MR4300
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post #25226 of 28072 Old 08-17-2016, 03:36 PM
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I echo Alan's suggestion above. Here is what I wrote on the Denon4520CI board post #13411:

[I]"I worked in the electronics industry here in Silicon Valley for 40 years. Some of that time was related to the military. Silicon components typically have two failure humps. The first hump occurs in the first 1,000 even after I shut the AVR down. I see no reason to ...

I wound up going with the ones Enrico recommended. I get what your saying about them drawing power and therefore further hearing the AVR, but like you said, it's likely a tiny percentage compared to the rest.

My Current "Living Room" Home Theater!
Plasma 50" TV: Samsung PN50C8000 — DLP Projector: Optoma GT1080
Projector Screen: Elite VMAX2 Electric — Receiver:Pioneer Elite VSX-44 — Fronts: B&W 684 S1
Center: B&W CM Center S2 — Surrounds: B&W 685 S1 — Subwoofer: Rythmik FV15HP
Rear Surrounds: Polk Audio T15 — Front Heights: Polk Audio T15
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post #25227 of 28072 Old 08-17-2016, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt2026 View Post
IF there is enough clearance I wonder if a grill could be adapted for it... Drill in the mounting holes and, depending on ability to do so, figure out a way for cable clearance out the bottom of the grill, not through it.

Might need a right angle RCA adapter to reduce how far the audio cable sticks out https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-R...ngle+connector and for the power https://www.amazon.com/CablesOnline-...ower+connector or another if 10Amp capability is not enough(I didn't look beyond the cable to which I pointed)... just a thought.

Of course if you drill into the box you are stuck with the sub so I wouldn't take that approach until I was sure. I would also entertaining asking Rythmik to do it if I was absolutely sure

Eh I don't know if I have the stomach to make those kinds of alterations.

My Current "Living Room" Home Theater!
Plasma 50" TV: Samsung PN50C8000 — DLP Projector: Optoma GT1080
Projector Screen: Elite VMAX2 Electric — Receiver:Pioneer Elite VSX-44 — Fronts: B&W 684 S1
Center: B&W CM Center S2 — Surrounds: B&W 685 S1 — Subwoofer: Rythmik FV15HP
Rear Surrounds: Polk Audio T15 — Front Heights: Polk Audio T15
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post #25228 of 28072 Old 08-17-2016, 03:52 PM
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I wound up going with the ones Enrico recommended. I get what your saying about them drawing power and therefore further hearing the AVR, but like you said, it's likely a tiny percentage compared to the rest.
I have my fans connected into a USB power adapter, not into the AVR USB input. My fans run 24/7 even when the AVR is on stand by mode.
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Media Room: Ascend Acoustics Sierra Towers w/ RAAL, Horizon w/ RAAL & Sierra 2s | Rythmik F12SE (x2) | Marantz SR7008 | Parasound Halo P5 | Emotiva XPA-3 & XPA-200 | Oppo 105D | Sony HW40ES |
Desktop: Dynaudio BM5 mkIII | Rythmik L22 | Apogee Quartet | 27" iMac|
Bedroom: B&W 685 S2 | Rythmik LVX12 | Marantz NR1606 | Emotiva XPA-200 Gen 2 | Samsung UN50JU6500 |
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post #25229 of 28072 Old 08-17-2016, 03:57 PM
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Until the inventory is gone. Right now we have plenty in stock so my guess is two or three months, at least.
Is the L22 going away?

Yamaha CX-A5100 | Adcom GFA-555 + Outlaw Audio 5000 | Klipsch RP-160M (2) + FM8 (2) | Klipsch RP-450c | Klipsch RB-10 (2) | Polk Audio RC65i (2) | Rythmik F15HP (4)
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post #25230 of 28072 Old 08-17-2016, 04:00 PM
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Is the L22 going away?
It's not. I meant the current inventory The new batch of L22s will come with the new cast aluminum driver.



Enrico Castagnetti @ Rythmik Audio
Media Room: Ascend Acoustics Sierra Towers w/ RAAL, Horizon w/ RAAL & Sierra 2s | Rythmik F12SE (x2) | Marantz SR7008 | Parasound Halo P5 | Emotiva XPA-3 & XPA-200 | Oppo 105D | Sony HW40ES |
Desktop: Dynaudio BM5 mkIII | Rythmik L22 | Apogee Quartet | 27" iMac|
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