Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread - Page 910 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #27271 of 29372 Old 12-11-2016, 10:28 AM
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^^ do you not have room for a bigger size TV? Why settle for a small 50"? You can get a real nice 65" 4k for $1.5k.
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post #27272 of 29372 Old 12-11-2016, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tegage View Post
Not surprising to have a little TV talk on the Rythmik thread given so many of these subs sit next to a TV. LG has dropped the price of their B6 line of OLEDs. The 65" version is retails for $3299 and I'm sure you can find it for well under your $3000 price point.

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Thanks for the advice. Ha ha, I am so old school I don't even have HD from Direct TV. I am still taping tv shows on DVD recorder. I got to move to TIVO and change to HD Direct TV first. As for OLED, I think I'll stick to getting the biggest screen available for $3000. Going HD will be the biggest step up for me already!!!.

I wonder whether any non projection tv bigger than 80" that is in $3K range.

Nakamichi PA-7 amp, own designed preamp, JM LAB Spectral 913.1 speakers, Rythmik F12SE sub.
Not hooked up: Velodyne VA1210 sub, Kef Reference Series center, Kef Bookshelf speaker, Monitor Audio bookshelf speaker, Infinity rear speakers. Acurus 3X200W amp.
Coming soon: Own design power amp.
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post #27273 of 29372 Old 12-11-2016, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by tvuong View Post
^^ do you not have room for a bigger size TV? Why settle for a small 50"? You can get a real nice 65" 4k for $1.5k.
Room is very small and crowded plus I sit 6ft from TV with mains 4ft apart. Don't have room for much bigger than 50". It wouldn't fit and even if it did, I would be at risk of bumping into it on a regular basis as it's a bedroom and the TV is right at the left lower corner of the bed. Sub is now at the foot of bed.

Over the years, I've had a 32", a 42", a 46", and a 51".

Currently I'm using a 46".
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post #27274 of 29372 Old 12-11-2016, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post
Not in the market for a new TV right now (AVR and possibly surrounds are in the plans for next year), but in the $1K to $1.5K range, what is the best 46" to 50" ish TV can get right now?
It'll probably be different by the time you buy a tv. I like the Samsung 6300 series. Great value.
Is that FALD?
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post #27275 of 29372 Old 12-11-2016, 10:45 AM
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Is that FALD?
No.
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post #27276 of 29372 Old 12-11-2016, 10:50 AM
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It is my opinion to look for other brands than Samsung. My first 55" lasted barely 5 years. It had problem right after the warranty that the screen started to flicker. The new tv cannot be trouble shoot like the old one There's only very few IC in it and I cannot just troubleshoot like the good old rear projections. I had to call for service and guess what?/....................It's a design issue. They had a service bullitant out, I had to pay the guy to get the instruction to fix it myself. He charged me $110 to give me the instruction to fix it myself and $200 if he came out!!! Of cause I paid the cheaper way. All it is is to cut a wire and it's fixed!!!

The color of both Samsung are not that good. I know how to fix and adjust older tube and rear projection tv, it was so hard to adjust the Samsung. It's very hard to balance the color. I don't know what is the tv terms, but each color has what we EE called "offset"( where you can adjust the red, green and blue cast of the screen) and "gain" ( where the intensity of the bright color). This is equivalent brightness and contrast of black and white tv for each color. Took me a week of try and experiment to get it optimized. I even had to put an old small tube tv side by side to compare color and pictures at different scenes to adjust. It's so hard to make it look good for all situations for the Samsung.

The problem is the Samsung added things like fresh tone, temperature, movie, dynamic and all sort of junk. They interfere with the basic adjustment. You can adjust to get perfect for one movie, then the other channel looks like crap. Particular if you watch some older shows that has different color balance, it really look like crap. I had to adjust, keep flipping channels and adjust to best compromise. I hate that Samsung. Some tv just has two adjustments ( offset and gain) for each color, those are the best.

I think my stepson's Toshiba has better color and contrast. AND it's so easy to adjust. I just spent 10mins for him and I started kicking myself why didn't I bought the Toshiba 65"!!! It's cheaper than Samsung and better picture.


EDIT: I read about OLED, they said it has better black, deeper or whatever. My understanding how black is black and the details in the shadow is all about adjusting the "offset"( don't know what you call), which is the baseline. If you adjust too high, things just starting to look hazy, or the black start to have a color cast. So you lost the dept. If you adjust the offset too low, you get deep dark shadow but you lose detail in the shadow. If you adjust it right, the dark is pretty dark even on my cheap tv. Something you might want to consider before you dole out big money to get an OLED in a big hurry. Adjusting tv is kind of an art....and I am cheap!!! I believe is stretching to the limit on whatever I already have.

Well, for whatever it's worth.

Nakamichi PA-7 amp, own designed preamp, JM LAB Spectral 913.1 speakers, Rythmik F12SE sub.
Not hooked up: Velodyne VA1210 sub, Kef Reference Series center, Kef Bookshelf speaker, Monitor Audio bookshelf speaker, Infinity rear speakers. Acurus 3X200W amp.
Coming soon: Own design power amp.

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post #27277 of 29372 Old 12-11-2016, 10:51 AM
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There's a scene in The Magnificent Seven that is filled with high 20hz for a long period of time and damn my FV15HP started to smell
be warned if you play at high volumes. mines is manually calibrated so no auto EQ.


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Receiver - Sony STR-DH550
Fronts - Klipsch Reference Premiere RP-280F
Center
- Klipsch Reference Premiere RP-450C
Surrounds - Trash
Sub - Rythmik FV15HP
The Ultimate List of BASS in Movies w/ Frequency Charts Heavy Cinematic | Heavy Electronic|

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post #27278 of 29372 Old 12-11-2016, 11:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrGrey View Post
There's a scene in The Magnificent Seven that is filled with high 20hz for a long period of time and damn my FV15HP started to smell
be warned if you play at high volumes. mines is manually calibrated so no auto EQ.

scary! I run mine pretty hot

Marantz 7010 for 7.2.4
2 x Paradigm Prestige 75F's
1 x Paradigm Prestige 45C
8 x Paradigm CI Pro P65-R's
Sub 2 x Rythmik LVX12's
TV: LG 65B6
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post #27279 of 29372 Old 12-11-2016, 11:09 AM
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12db vs 24db LPF Slope

I have 2 12LVX, I'm currently running both of them at 12Db LPF slope. Is this the correct setting for dual subs in a hometheater? What is the difference between 12 and 24?

Marantz 7010 for 7.2.4
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1 x Paradigm Prestige 45C
8 x Paradigm CI Pro P65-R's
Sub 2 x Rythmik LVX12's
TV: LG 65B6
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post #27280 of 29372 Old 12-11-2016, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by tjcinnamon View Post
I have 2 12LVX, I'm currently running both of them at 12Db LPF slope. Is this the correct setting for dual subs in a hometheater? What is the difference between 12 and 24?
Yes, 12dB and max crossover frequency is correct for Line In and irrelevant for LFE, which bypasses all LPF and phase controls on sub plate amp.

24dB sounds more articulate/thinner in the midbass to me on my LV12R. It doesn't really affect FR as measured at the MLP, so you can toggle between 12dB and 24dB as long as crossover remains at max frequency. (If you lower crossover frequency than the slope does affect FR and calibration.
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post #27281 of 29372 Old 12-11-2016, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post
Is that FALD?
No.
Quote:
Originally Posted by alan0354 View Post
It is my opinion to look for other brands than Samsung. My first 55" lasted barely 5 years. It had problem right after the warranty that the screen started to flicker. The new tv cannot be trouble shoot like the old one There's only very few IC in it and I cannot just troubleshoot like the good old rear projections. I had to call for service and guess what?/....................It's a design issue. They had a service bullitant out, I had to pay the guy to get the instruction to fix it myself. He charged me $110 to give me the instruction to fix it myself and $200 if he came out!!! Of cause I paid the cheaper way. All it is is to cut a wire and it's fixed!!!

The color of both Samsung are not that good. I know how to fix and adjust older tube and rear projection tv, it was so hard to adjust the Samsung. It's very hard to balance the color. I don't know what is the tv terms, but each color has what we EE called "offset"( where you can adjust the red, green and blue cast of the screen) and "gain" ( where the intensity of the bright color). This is equivalent brightness and contrast of black and white tv for each color. Took me a week of try and experiment to get it optimized. I even had to put an old small tube tv side by side to compare color and pictures at different scenes to adjust. It's so hard to make it look good for all situations for the Samsung.

The problem is the Samsung added things like fresh tone, temperature, movie, dynamic and all sort of junk. They interfere with the basic adjustment. You can adjust to get perfect for one movie, then the other channel looks like crap. Particular if you watch some older shows that has different color balance, it really look like crap. I had to adjust, keep flipping channels and adjust to best compromise. I hate that Samsung. Some tv just has two adjustments ( offset and gain) for each color, those are the best.

I think my stepson's Toshiba has better color and contrast. AND it's so easy to adjust. I just spent 10mins for him and I started kicking myself why didn't I bought the Toshiba 65"!!! It's cheaper than Samsung and better picture.


EDIT: I read about OLED, they said it has better black, deeper or whatever. My understanding how black is black and the details in the shadow is all about adjusting the "offset"( don't know what you call), which is the baseline. If you adjust too high, things just starting to look hazy, or the black start to have a color cast. So you lost the dept. If you adjust the offset too low, you get deep dark shadow but you lose detail in the shadow. If you adjust it right, the dark is pretty dark even on my cheap tv. Something you might want to consider before you dole out big money to get an OLED in a big hurry. Adjusting tv is kind of an art....and I am cheap!!! I believe is stretching to the limit on whatever I already have.

Well, for whatever it's worth.
I've had many Samsungs over the years and they typically had great PQ but I did have some issues with build quality and reliability with various boards and even the panel in one case.

My current TV is the Samsung 46" EH6030 and the main limitation of it aside from 4K/HDR/P3 gamut not supported is black levels and contrast ratio. It has great color, brightness, uniformity, viewing angles, motion, etc. I have fully calibrated it myself with a C6/i1 pro spectro combo and the CalMAN Enthusiast software.

In the future, I do want either FALD LED-LCD like the Vizio P-series or OLED if the price drops much lower with a 50" size available. Viewing angle, especially vertically is important given I can't view it head on in my setup.
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post #27282 of 29372 Old 12-11-2016, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrGrey View Post
There's a scene in The Magnificent Seven that is filled with high 20hz for a long period of time and damn my FV15HP started to smell
be warned if you play at high volumes. mines is manually calibrated so no auto EQ.


Do you think it's the driver or amp? What settings are you using on the amp?
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post #27283 of 29372 Old 12-11-2016, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post
Yes, 12dB and max crossover frequency is correct for Line In and irrelevant for LFE, which bypasses all LPF and phase controls on sub plate amp.

24dB sounds more articulate/thinner in the midbass to me on my LV12R. It doesn't really affect FR as measured at the MLP, so you can toggle between 12dB and 24dB as long as crossover remains at max frequency. (If you lower crossover frequency than the slope does affect FR and calibration.
I'm plugged into LFE and my crossover is turned to 30 (off). Does that mean that 12 vs 24 doesn't matter because I'm in LFE? Also does that mean my crossover on the sub doesn't matter because I'm plugged into LFE?

Marantz 7010 for 7.2.4
2 x Paradigm Prestige 75F's
1 x Paradigm Prestige 45C
8 x Paradigm CI Pro P65-R's
Sub 2 x Rythmik LVX12's
TV: LG 65B6
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post #27284 of 29372 Old 12-11-2016, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post
Do you think it's the driver or amp? What settings are you using on the amp?
it was the voice coil i smelled it in my room and at the port, the amp wasn't even that hot.

Line in
80hz crossover
80hz/24
High Damp
1 Port



Receiver - Sony STR-DH550
Fronts - Klipsch Reference Premiere RP-280F
Center
- Klipsch Reference Premiere RP-450C
Surrounds - Trash
Sub - Rythmik FV15HP
The Ultimate List of BASS in Movies w/ Frequency Charts Heavy Cinematic | Heavy Electronic|

Last edited by MrGrey; 12-11-2016 at 11:59 AM.
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post #27285 of 29372 Old 12-11-2016, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by tjcinnamon View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post
Yes, 12dB and max crossover frequency is correct for Line In and irrelevant for LFE, which bypasses all LPF and phase controls on sub plate amp.

24dB sounds more articulate/thinner in the midbass to me on my LV12R. It doesn't really affect FR as measured at the MLP, so you can toggle between 12dB and 24dB as long as crossover remains at max frequency. (If you lower crossover frequency than the slope does affect FR and calibration.
I'm plugged into LFE and my crossover is turned to 30 (off). Does that mean that 12 vs 24 doesn't matter because I'm in LFE? Also does that mean my crossover on the sub doesn't matter because I'm plugged into LFE?
By default, you want crossover at max and lpf slope at 12dB for HT/AVR use, but this only matters with Line In. With LFE those knobs/switches do nothing (only volume and bass extension do anything).
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post #27286 of 29372 Old 12-11-2016, 12:04 PM
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^^ at what MV and how hot was your sub?
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post #27287 of 29372 Old 12-11-2016, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrGrey View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post
Do you think it's the driver or amp? What settings are you using on the amp?
it was the voice coil i smelled it in my room and at the port, the amp wasn't even that hot.

Line in
80hz crossover
80hz/24
High Damp
1 Port


I think Brian has mentioned in the past that 14Hz and high damping in one port mode can bottom out the driver more easily than with low damping, so in extreme cases use low damping to reduce the chance of bottoming out the driver.

However, I wonder if this is a different problem...
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^^ at what MV and how hot was your sub?
Good question and I hope the limiter was on.
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^^ at what MV and how hot was your sub?
i don't run it hot at all, all levels are at zero in my AVR and no EQ was used. the only thing that was messed with was the gain on the back of the fv15hp. and my sony avr was at Vol 40, it doesn't has the -db like other avr's

Receiver - Sony STR-DH550
Fronts - Klipsch Reference Premiere RP-280F
Center
- Klipsch Reference Premiere RP-450C
Surrounds - Trash
Sub - Rythmik FV15HP
The Ultimate List of BASS in Movies w/ Frequency Charts Heavy Cinematic | Heavy Electronic|
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Good question and I hope the limiter was on.
yeah it was, nothing crazy or out of the ordinary was being done, i think its just the constant 20hz was high volumes from this film.

Receiver - Sony STR-DH550
Fronts - Klipsch Reference Premiere RP-280F
Center
- Klipsch Reference Premiere RP-450C
Surrounds - Trash
Sub - Rythmik FV15HP
The Ultimate List of BASS in Movies w/ Frequency Charts Heavy Cinematic | Heavy Electronic|
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I'm measuring out sub positions for my LVX12's.

Anyone know how to interpret REW well?

Help interpreting my REW pictures

Marantz 7010 for 7.2.4
2 x Paradigm Prestige 75F's
1 x Paradigm Prestige 45C
8 x Paradigm CI Pro P65-R's
Sub 2 x Rythmik LVX12's
TV: LG 65B6
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post #27292 of 29372 Old 12-11-2016, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by MrGrey View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by tvuong View Post
^^ at what MV and how hot was your sub?
i don't run it hot at all, all levels are at zero in my AVR and no EQ was used. the only thing that was messed with was the gain on the back of the fv15hp. and my sony avr was at Vol 40, it doesn't has the -db like other avr's
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Originally Posted by MrGrey View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post
Good question and I hope the limiter was on.
yeah it was, nothing crazy or out of the ordinary was being done, i think its just the constant 20hz was high volumes from this film.
Well, sustained high spl at ulf was likely it. But, FYI, you can run the sub hot by increasing the gain knob after room correction/AVR cal and that means the sub is playing louder just like if you raised the sw trim in AVR. So, if the sub is playing louder than the speakers than that is still considered running it hot.
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post #27293 of 29372 Old 12-11-2016, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by tjcinnamon View Post
I'm measuring out sub positions for my LVX12's.

Anyone know how to interpret REW well?

Help interpreting my REW pictures
Go here, the maker of the program and allot of guys who know allot about REW will help you 100%

Simplified REW Setup and Use (USB Mic & HDMI Connection) Including Measurement Techniques and How To Interpret Graphs

Receiver - Sony STR-DH550
Fronts - Klipsch Reference Premiere RP-280F
Center
- Klipsch Reference Premiere RP-450C
Surrounds - Trash
Sub - Rythmik FV15HP
The Ultimate List of BASS in Movies w/ Frequency Charts Heavy Cinematic | Heavy Electronic|
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Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post
Well, sustained high spl at ulf was likely it. But, FYI, you can run the sub hot by increasing the gain knob after room correction/AVR cal and that means the sub is playing louder just like if you raised the sw trim in AVR. So, if the sub is playing louder than the speakers than that is still considered running it hot.
very true. like i said above i didn't use any EQ at all so no levels were messed with by me or the software. Ive had a bad experience with sony avr EQ and its pure garbage on this model of so i just do it manually with tape measure and sub distance.

Receiver - Sony STR-DH550
Fronts - Klipsch Reference Premiere RP-280F
Center
- Klipsch Reference Premiere RP-450C
Surrounds - Trash
Sub - Rythmik FV15HP
The Ultimate List of BASS in Movies w/ Frequency Charts Heavy Cinematic | Heavy Electronic|
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post #27295 of 29372 Old 12-11-2016, 12:44 PM
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yeah it was, nothing crazy or out of the ordinary was being done, i think its just the constant 20hz was high volumes from this film.
What was the time stamp and about how long was the 20hz clip? I have the movie but haven't got a chance to view it yet. The black hole scene in Interstellar was pretty loooong too and has <=20hz material.
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What was the time stamp and about how long was the 20hz clip? I have the movie but haven't got a chance to view it yet. The black hole scene in Interstellar was pretty loooong too and has <=20hz material.
I'll find it, give me a minute.

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Fronts - Klipsch Reference Premiere RP-280F
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post #27297 of 29372 Old 12-11-2016, 12:46 PM
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i don't run it hot at all, all levels are at zero in my AVR and no EQ was used. the only thing that was messed with was the gain on the back of the fv15hp. and my sony avr was at Vol 40, it doesn't has the -db like other avr's
So we dont really know how hot your sub was playing. Is your sub death? I would email/call Rythmik.
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post #27298 of 29372 Old 12-11-2016, 12:53 PM
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What was the time stamp and about how long was the 20hz clip? I have the movie but haven't got a chance to view it yet. The black hole scene in Interstellar was pretty loooong too and has <=20hz material.

DAM! So high db rumble and for a long time

1:36:40 - 1:38:23


Receiver - Sony STR-DH550
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The Ultimate List of BASS in Movies w/ Frequency Charts Heavy Cinematic | Heavy Electronic|
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post #27299 of 29372 Old 12-11-2016, 12:55 PM
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So we dont really know how hot your sub was playing. Is your sub death? I would email/call Rythmik.
No its totally fine from what i can hear, no scratch noises from the woofer or weird noises

Receiver - Sony STR-DH550
Fronts - Klipsch Reference Premiere RP-280F
Center
- Klipsch Reference Premiere RP-450C
Surrounds - Trash
Sub - Rythmik FV15HP
The Ultimate List of BASS in Movies w/ Frequency Charts Heavy Cinematic | Heavy Electronic|
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post #27300 of 29372 Old 12-11-2016, 01:03 PM
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^^ good to hear.
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