Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread - Page 949 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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Old 04-05-2017, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by gwsat View Post
That research has me intrigued by the upcoming Rythmik FV25HP. If it ships in the reasonably near future I will seriously consider buying a pair of them.
How big is your room? Is it sealed or open to other part of the house? Having lots of output headroom is nice but it becomes a waste if you do not use it. The FV25, FV18, FV15hp or the Cap2400 and the 4000ULF are the only ported subs that are tuned at 12hz and below.
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Old 04-05-2017, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by tvuong View Post
How big is your room? Is it sealed or open to other part of the house? Having lots of output headroom is nice but it becomes a waste if you do not use it. The FV25, FV18, FV15hp or the Cap2400 and the 4000ULF are the only ported subs that are tuned at 12hz and below.
My HT setup is in my family room, which is connected via a 15 foot wide archway to my kitchen-eating area. This comprises about 10,000 ^3 and is not sealed. I think I can use all the headroom I can get. We apparently don't yet know the exact specs of the FV25HP but it seems that its output will be roughly the same as the JTR Cap 2400ULF.

HT setup: Sony 75XBR X940D UHD HDR TV; Kaleidescape Strato Movie Server 6 TB; Yamaha RX-A3060 AV receiver; Sonamp 2-1 2channel 100W power amp; Crestron Control System; 2 Rythmik FV18 subwoofers, 6 Hsu HB-1 Bookshelf speakers, 1 Hsu HC-1 Center speaker, 4 Focal ICW8 in-ceiling Atmos speakers; Oppo UDP-203 4K HDR BD player; Mac Mini HTPC. TiVO Bolt 1TB DVR; TiVo Premiere Elite 2 TB DVR; Roku Premiere+
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Old 04-05-2017, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by tvuong View Post
How big is your room? Is it sealed or open to other part of the house? Having lots of output headroom is nice but it becomes a waste if you do not use it. The FV25, FV18, FV15hp or the Cap2400 and the 4000ULF are the only ported subs that are tuned at 12hz and below.
The cap 2400ulf is tuned to 14hz.
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Old 04-05-2017, 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by citsur86 View Post
I keep mine on 1 port, rumble filter Off, and AVR/12 low pass, 14Hz. This was a video I made to show an example of the chuffing playing a single frequency, but I hear this during loud LFE scenes in movies - and it's louder than it is here.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CtOVCX06KpI
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Originally Posted by citsur86 View Post
I have and the response stays mostly the same with the addition of a large null at MLP at 50hz when I do that. I don't get any turbulent noise except for the very low frequency high SPL scenes like Edge of Tomorrow. Those are pretty few and far between and regardless, even if I turn it how it used to be with ports facing out into the room, I still get those sounds during those scenes.
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Originally Posted by rcohen View Post
The John Wick nightclub scene is another great one.
There is a deep bass melody in the nightclub that ranges from inaudible to bass bliss, depending on the sub setup and house curve.
That, plus lots of head shots.
Hadn't heard the chuffing on my dual lvx12's until the beginning of Edge of Tomorrow was mentioned and its during the radio/tv broadcasts. Definitely higher with one port open, but still there and similar to citsur86's video even with two ports open. So far hadn't noticed it until the beginning of Edge of Tomorrow was mentioned and listened to it.
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Old 04-05-2017, 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by enricoclaudio View Post
Here pictures of the new bad boys

F18HP in black oak finish



FV25 in flat matte paint and FV18 in black oak (naked so you can see ports)

Are silver aluminum drivers an option?
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Old 04-05-2017, 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by enricoclaudio View Post
Here pictures of the new bad boys

F18HP in black oak finish



FV25 in flat matte paint and FV18 in black oak (naked so you can see ports)



What are the specs? Or can someone fill me in who knows if they are out yet.

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Old 04-06-2017, 12:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Last Mile View Post
What are the specs? Or can someone fill me in who knows if they are out yet.
Last time I checked:

FV18HP: 900W Amp, $1750 shipped, +2 dB overall compared with FV15HP

FV25HP: 1800W Amp, $2450 shipped, compared with FV15HP, +6dB > 30 Hz, +9dB @ 12 Hz.

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Old 04-06-2017, 01:31 AM
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Originally Posted by enricoclaudio View Post
Driver and amplifier for both models are new components made from scratch. FV18 has DS1820 driver and HX1000XLR3 amp. The FV25HP has DS1520 driver and HX2000XLR3 amp.

Here is a picture comparing H600XLR3 vs HX2000XLR3. The H600XLR3 amp has the same size and layout as the HX800XLR3 that we use in the F25.



What is the connector above the C14 power inlet? Speakon? What's it for?
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Old 04-06-2017, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by RCKYMTN View Post
Hadn't heard the chuffing on my dual lvx12's until the beginning of Edge of Tomorrow was mentioned and its during the radio/tv broadcasts. Definitely higher with one port open, but still there and similar to citsur86's video even with two ports open. So far hadn't noticed it until the beginning of Edge of Tomorrow was mentioned and listened to it.
I hear it on my LVX12 as well during that scene, but I doubt there are many subs that wouldn't chuff in EOT. That movie definite gives subs a workout.
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Old 04-06-2017, 01:13 PM
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Where will we hear about these being able to be ordered first? Here on the forum? I have been putting off a sub purchase for a couple months waiting to get my hands on an F18HP and want to get on it as soon as is possible.

TV: Sony XBR55HX929
Receiver: Integra DTR-70.4
Speakers: Two Vienna Acoustics Beethoven Baby Grand towers, a Maestro center, and two Solus SR-C6 in-ceiling rears
Sub: temporary placeholder
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Old 04-06-2017, 01:28 PM
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Is the 12dB or 24dB slope better for music or movies? I've been playing around with them, but don't notice a major difference. It appears to me the 12 slope is a bit fuller for music.

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Old 04-06-2017, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by primetime74 View Post
Is the 12dB or 24dB slope better for music or movies? I've been playing around with them, but don't notice a major difference. It appears to me the 12 slope is a
bit fuller for music.
The 12db slope is better. the 24dB slope cuts off way too much so i use the 12db slope. when using the LINE IN which goes up to 90hz for my FV15HP you can see why it would be a bad idea. right now i am using the 12db slope and listening to this bass heavy song https://soundcloud.com/edm/frederiqu...yes-this-is-me
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Receiver - Sony STR-DH550
Fronts - Klipsch Reference Premiere RP-280F
Center
- Klipsch Reference Premiere RP-450C
Surrounds - Trash
Sub - Rythmik FV15HP
The Ultimate List of BASS in Movies w/ Frequency Charts Heavy Cinematic | Heavy Electronic|

Last edited by MrGrey; 04-06-2017 at 04:01 PM.
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Old 04-07-2017, 06:24 AM
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12 dB will roll off slower than 24 dB. How much that matters to the sound and to the speakers depends on what sound you like as well as the crossover frequency and performance of the main speakers (and sub). And of course the room also gets into the sound you hear and interaction among speakers. A higher crossover and lower slope (12 dB) means more bass in the mains (and more higher-frequency stuff in the sub). I tend to prefer a smaller transition band and lower crossover so there is less interaction with the mains and the mains carry less of the bass load (my main speakers do not like loud deep bass stuff). Others may prefer more bass in their main speakers. If you can't tell any difference, I would use the higher slope (24 dB) to reduce the load on the main speakers.

FWIWFM - Don
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"After silence, that which best expresses the inexpressible, is music" - Aldous Huxley
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Old 04-07-2017, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by DonH50 View Post
12 dB will roll off slower than 24 dB. How much that matters to the sound and to the speakers depends on what sound you like as well as the crossover frequency and performance of the main speakers (and sub). And of course the room also gets into the sound you hear and interaction among speakers. A higher crossover and lower slope (12 dB) means more bass in the mains (and more higher-frequency stuff in the sub). I tend to prefer a smaller transition band and lower crossover so there is less interaction with the mains and the mains carry less of the bass load (my main speakers do not like loud deep bass stuff). Others may prefer more bass in their main speakers. If you can't tell any difference, I would use the higher slope (24 dB) to reduce the load on the main speakers.

FWIWFM - Don
I follow you on the slope of the roll off, but wouldn't a higher crossover result in less bass going to the mains (more to the sub)?
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Old 04-07-2017, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by MrGrey View Post
The 12db slope is better. the 24dB slope cuts off way too much so i use the 12db slope. when using the LINE IN which goes up to 90hz for my FV15HP you can see why it would be a bad idea. right now i am using the 12db slope and listening to this bass heavy song https://soundcloud.com/edm/frederiqu...yes-this-is-me
I do tend to have a slight preference to the 12dB slope, but I use the LFE channel.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DonH50 View Post
12 dB will roll off slower than 24 dB. How much that matters to the sound and to the speakers depends on what sound you like as well as the crossover frequency and performance of the main speakers (and sub). And of course the room also gets into the sound you hear and interaction among speakers. A higher crossover and lower slope (12 dB) means more bass in the mains (and more higher-frequency stuff in the sub). I tend to prefer a smaller transition band and lower crossover so there is less interaction with the mains and the mains carry less of the bass load (my main speakers do not like loud deep bass stuff). Others may prefer more bass in their main speakers. If you can't tell any difference, I would use the higher slope (24 dB) to reduce the load on the main speakers.

FWIWFM - Don
As mentioned, I find the 12dB gives a lil more meat to the bass. I have my crossover set at 80. I may try adding a bit of gain to the sub and see how that sounds with the 24dB slope.

Appreciate the help MrGrey and Don.

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Old 04-07-2017, 01:37 PM
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I follow you on the slope of the roll off, but wouldn't a higher crossover result in less bass going to the mains (more to the sub)?
Exactly, that would be the point.
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Old 04-07-2017, 02:12 PM
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I follow you on the slope of the roll off, but wouldn't a higher crossover result in less bass going to the mains (more to the sub)?
Yes, duh, brain-fart... Juxtaposed two things.

Higher crossover = more HF in sub, less bass in mains
Lower crossover frequency = less HF in sub, more bass in mains

Higher slope = less bass in mains, less HF in subs (less overlap)
Lower slope = more bass in mains, more HF in subs (more overlap)
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Old 04-08-2017, 03:46 AM
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Originally Posted by DonH50 View Post
Yes, duh, brain-fart... Juxtaposed two things.

Higher crossover = more HF in sub, less bass in mains
Lower crossover frequency = less HF in sub, more bass in mains

Higher slope = less bass in mains, less HF in subs (less overlap)
Lower slope = more bass in mains, more HF in subs (more overlap)
When I first set up my F12s, I could not get them to sound right if my XO was 80hz or above. There was just something off about the sound, like they were nearing the upper limits of the frequency range they could produce. It's like the sound wasn't clean, but dirty. I knew this shouldn't be the case because I was aware of Brian's charts on the Rythmik website showing the frequency response reaching 200hz with LFE.

With some thinking and some discussion, it dawned on me: my hypothesis was that my F12s were producing sounds that were too high in frequency and it sounded bad. REW measurements confirmed my idea: the subs were not dropping in output quickly enough as they crossed over to my mains, and were still producing 75db beyond 200hz! I could theoretically cut the top off of the FR by using Line-In and a steeper slope.

It worked amazingly well. It solved my sound quality problem. With my F12s settled in to a 100hz XO, ideally chosen with REW measurements and lots of listening, they now drop off much faster as they hand off to the mains. The sounds they produce no longer contain bad sound from the upper frequencies as they are no longer being sent to them. It is clean and powerful. It was this moment when I truly became proud of my Rythmik F12s.

In summary, I do not think the LFE input is the way to go if you want the best sound from these subs. They will be asked to do too much and it will muddy the bass. Play with the 12db and 24db slopes, but my system has more authority and cleaner bass set to the steeper 24db setting and for sure with Line-In. I likely gained headroom by restricting the frequency range as well but I did not graph that.

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Old 04-09-2017, 12:37 PM
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Well, I wanted to try one new sub placement for my single LV12R: the back left corner. The response was great from 19Hz to 50Hz and then a massive suckout from 50Hz to 80Hz in the near 20dB range.

So, it seems the front right corner to the right of FR speaker is the best. In doing this check, I did rotate the sub 180 degrees in the front right corner so now the driver faces right wall instead of FR speaker. Measurements were about the same but the transient response seems to be much improved as now mid damping sounds like high damping, but with the added low end. Even low damping seems faster and cleaner.

In the past, I would have confused improved transient response with weaker bass, but I know better now.
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Old 04-09-2017, 03:48 PM
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We have a pair of FV18s in black oak ready to ship. Price for single unit is $1700 shipped and $$3230 for the pair. If somebody is interested, please send me an email to tech@rythmikaudio.com or to Brian at briand@rythmikaudio.com

We have more amps coming in the next two weeks for FV18s and FV25s.



Enrico Castagnetti @ Rythmik Audio
Media Room: Ascend Acoustics Sierra Towers w/ RAAL, Horizon w/ RAAL & Sierra 2s | Rythmik F12SE (x2) | Emotiva XMC-1 | Emotiva XPA-3 & XPA-200 | Oppo 105D | Bluesound Node 2 | Sony HW40ES |
Desktop: Dynaudio BM5 mkIII | Rythmik L22 | Apogee Quartet | 27" iMac|
Bedroom: B&W 685 S2 | Rythmik LVX12 | Marantz NR1606 | Emotiva XPA-200 Gen 2 | Samsung UN50JU6500 |
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Old 04-09-2017, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by enricoclaudio View Post
We have a pair of FV18s in black oak ready to ship. Price for single unit is $1700 shipped and $$3230 for the pair. If somebody is interested, please send me an email to tech@rythmikaudio.com or to Brian at briand@rythmikaudio.com

We have more amps coming in the next two weeks for FV18s and FV25s.
When we spoke on the phone last week you said that you were about to receive the parts to allow you to assemble a couple of the FV25HPs for testing. Have you been able to do that yet?

HT setup: Sony 75XBR X940D UHD HDR TV; Kaleidescape Strato Movie Server 6 TB; Yamaha RX-A3060 AV receiver; Sonamp 2-1 2channel 100W power amp; Crestron Control System; 2 Rythmik FV18 subwoofers, 6 Hsu HB-1 Bookshelf speakers, 1 Hsu HC-1 Center speaker, 4 Focal ICW8 in-ceiling Atmos speakers; Oppo UDP-203 4K HDR BD player; Mac Mini HTPC. TiVO Bolt 1TB DVR; TiVo Premiere Elite 2 TB DVR; Roku Premiere+
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Old 04-09-2017, 05:59 PM
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I keep measuring and re-measuring the couple of spots I have room for a large sub....is the fv25hp 41in tall exact including feet or whatever....my bar is 42in tall and was planning on sticking sub next to beer fridge under bar, but if its too tall obviously it wont fit and I would be pissed

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Old 04-09-2017, 06:15 PM
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Hey all,

I was just checking settings on the back of my FVX15 and noticed the green LED was blinking...two blinks then static green for about 3-5 seconds, then another two blinks and so forth. The power switch was set to "On" (not "Auto") and at the time of checking the LED I was watching Roku on low volume (so no clipping).

Switching the power off and back on get rid of the blinking and as of right now the LED is staying static green.

Did it really just need a Geek Squad "Power off, Power on" fix? Should I switch it to "Auto" for the power then?

Thanks!
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Old 04-09-2017, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by gwsat View Post
When we spoke on the phone last week you said that you were about to receive the parts to allow you to assemble a couple of the FV25HPs for testing. Have you been able to do that yet?
Brian says that this coming Thursday we should have a pair of FV25s ready to ship. Price for a single unit is $2500 shipped and $4750 for the pair shipped.



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Media Room: Ascend Acoustics Sierra Towers w/ RAAL, Horizon w/ RAAL & Sierra 2s | Rythmik F12SE (x2) | Emotiva XMC-1 | Emotiva XPA-3 & XPA-200 | Oppo 105D | Bluesound Node 2 | Sony HW40ES |
Desktop: Dynaudio BM5 mkIII | Rythmik L22 | Apogee Quartet | 27" iMac|
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Old 04-09-2017, 06:42 PM
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Send an email to Brian and Enrico. I think it flashes trouble codes, not sure, but they can tell you what was going on. Hopefully just a glitch.

"After silence, that which best expresses the inexpressible, is music" - Aldous Huxley
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Old 04-09-2017, 10:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enricoclaudio View Post
We have a pair of FV18s in black oak ready to ship. Price for single unit is $1700 shipped and $$3230 for the pair. If somebody is interested, please send me an email to tech@rythmikaudio.com or to Brian at briand@rythmikaudio.com

We have more amps coming in the next two weeks for FV18s and FV25s.

jbl l100t3 (x2), rythmik fv15hp (x2), phase linear 700b, samsung ln52b750, sony str-db930
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Old 04-10-2017, 12:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enricoclaudio View Post
We have a pair of FV18s in black oak ready to ship. Price for single unit is $1700 shipped and $$3230 for the pair. If somebody is interested, please send me an email to tech@rythmikaudio.com or to Brian at briand@rythmikaudio.com

We have more amps coming in the next two weeks for FV18s and FV25s.
What's the ETA on F18HP units?

TV: Sony XBR55HX929
Receiver: Integra DTR-70.4
Speakers: Two Vienna Acoustics Beethoven Baby Grand towers, a Maestro center, and two Solus SR-C6 in-ceiling rears
Sub: temporary placeholder
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Old 04-10-2017, 07:14 AM
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I already got a response from Brian regarding my LED flashing sequence. He said the two blinks indicate there was some sort of AC power fluctuation. I'm following up with him but I did have a string of brown outs two weeks ago during high wind speeds and figure this is probably why it threw the error code. He confirmed turning it off and on again clears the code and things should be fine going forward.

Below is the error code guide he sent in the email. If Rythmik does not want me to post this, I will gladly take it down (I could see why they might always want someone emailing when there is an error code to maximize customer satisfaction):
1) one-blink: driver not connected (bad driver?)
2) two-blink: over-voltage (AC voltage too high during turn on)
3) three-blink: DC problem. The customer may have driven the sub with very level subsonic signals.
4) four-blink: Over-voltage (AC voltage too high)
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Old 04-10-2017, 07:37 AM
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What's the thought on leaving the Rythmik amp always On vs. using the Auto On?

Besides possibly saving electricity, is there any added protection to the woofer by using the Auto On setting (some threads I have read said Auto On settings for subwoofers can help protect them from a sudden power fluctuation, such as a brown out like my scenario, or a receiver turning on at a high volume setting producing an initial loud "Thump" sound)?

Last edited by BigCoolJesus; 04-10-2017 at 07:41 AM.
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Old 04-10-2017, 07:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigCoolJesus View Post
What's the thought on leaving the Rythmik amp always On vs. using the Auto On?

Besides possibly saving electricity, is there any added protection to the woofer by using the Auto On setting (some threads I have read said Auto On settings for subwoofers can help protect them from a sudden power fluctuation, such as a brown out like my scenario, or a receiver turning on at a high volume setting producing an initial loud "Thump" sound)?
I leave my on 24/7 and I have the compact class d amp. I don't like auto because at the levels I listen at plus the low voltage of my Yamaha AVR sub pre-out it won't always turn on and might turn off when it shouldn't. It has to do with how much voltage the sub needs to turn on and stay on.

I think Brian mentioned in the past that with the class d amps leaving it on should be fine as long as the amp isn't hot to the touch when not playing loud bass.
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f12g subwoofer , integra dtc 9.8 , lv12r , Rythmik , Rythmik Audio , Rythmik Audio F12 Direct Servo Subwoofer , Rythmik Audio F15 Subwoofer , servo sub
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