Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread - Page 954 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #28591 of 28619 Old 04-20-2017, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by basshead81 View Post
The cabinet is much larger then the V1801, the amp is also much heavier. Driver might be a little heavier too.

The driver and amp is heavier then the JTR, plus JTR uses Baltic birch which is lighter then mdf.
As big as big as FV18s cabinets are (21"(W) x 33" (H )x 22"(D) - (23" D with grille and heatsink)), each one is still about the same size as my Hsu VTF-3 MK3 Turbo (33”(h) w/ Turbo X 17”(w) X 25”(d)), which they will be replacing. They are heavy, though. The shipping weight of each is 180 pounds, which is double the net weight of my old Hsu, less its Turbo unit.

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post #28592 of 28619 Old 04-20-2017, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by enricoclaudio View Post
The DS1802 driver alone is 40 lb.
Enrico -- The FV18 spec page describes its driver as a DS1820 18" high excursion with custom sensing coil. How much does it weigh?

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post #28593 of 28619 Old 04-20-2017, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by gwsat View Post
Enrico -- The FV18 spec page describes its driver as a DS1820 18" high excursion with custom sensing coil. How much does it weigh?
Sorry, that was a typo. The driver on FV18 is the DS1820 and it weights 40 lb.
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post #28594 of 28619 Old 04-21-2017, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by imureh View Post
What makes this sub over 70lbs more than the V1801 and 50lbs more than the JTR 118HT?
Although it was mentioned the actual weight is more like 155 vs 180, remember that the V1801 is a VERY small 18" ported sub, so much less weight due to smaller cab. And the JTR is probably not any smaller but does use baltic birch rather than MDF, which is much lighter(but very strong).
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post #28595 of 28619 Old 04-21-2017, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by bear123 View Post
Although it was mentioned the actual weight is more like 155 vs 180, remember that the V1801 is a VERY small 18" ported sub, so much less weight due to smaller cab. And the JTR is probably not any smaller but does use baltic birch rather than MDF, which is much lighter(but very strong).
Baltic birch doesn't require the bracing that MDF does. Vs properly braced MDF, there is no performance advantage to BB. Although it should be more durable over a lifetime. I would want baltic birch if I was travelling (PA) or worried about flooding.

*JTR: 17mm baltic birch 13-ply
*Rythmik: ¾" = 18mm MDF
*PSA: 1" = 25.4" MDF (both sides texture painted or veneered)
*Seaton: 1" = 25.4mm MDF (both sides veneered) (1.5" MDF for F18 faceplates), SS used BB in the past
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post #28596 of 28619 Old 04-21-2017, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Marc Alexander View Post
Baltic birch doesn't require the bracing that MDF does. Vs properly braced MDF, there is no performance advantage to BB. Although it should be more durable over a lifetime. I would want baltic birch if I was travelling (PA) or worried about flooding.

*JTR: 17mm baltic birch 13-ply
*Rythmik: ¾" = 18mm MDF
*PSA: 1" = 25.4" MDF (both sides texture painted or veneered)
*Seaton: 1" = 25.4mm MDF (both sides veneered) (1.5" MDF for F18 faceplates), SS used BB in the past
In fact, the front panel is 1-1/2" and the back panel is 1" MDF, even on E15HP, F15HP and FV15HP. 18mm MDF for sides, top, bottom and braces.
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post #28597 of 28619 Old 04-21-2017, 09:24 PM
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ply wood i dont care what kind isnt as good as mdf for subs...I have made alot of plywood subs back in the day and they just dont sound as good imo.

Power: Marantz sr7008, NAD C 275Bee x 2, Video: Oppo 103, Samsung 75un6300
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post #28598 of 28619 Old 04-21-2017, 09:45 PM
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Rythmik sub is heavier than other ID sub manufacturers mainly comes from its analog amp. I am guessing Rythmik amp would be ~15-25lbs versus ~4-6lbs from Speakerpower?
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post #28599 of 28619 Old 04-21-2017, 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by enricoclaudio View Post
In fact, the front panel is 1-1/2" and the back panel is 1" MDF, even on E15HP, F15HP and FV15HP. 18mm MDF for sides, top, bottom and braces.
Nice, you should advertise this. Your website needs a serious overhaul. HTML5 instead of flash.
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post #28600 of 28619 Old 04-22-2017, 10:04 PM
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Nice, you should advertise this. Your website needs a serious overhaul. HTML5 instead of flash.
html5 & node.js
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post #28601 of 28619 Old 04-22-2017, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by torii View Post
who needs subs when towers get you this? not a bragging statement, just a statement...
i need radio shack where to buy
amazon.com unable to get
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post #28602 of 28619 Old 04-22-2017, 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by torii View Post
who needs subs when towers get you this? not a bragging statement, just a statement...
Was this playing a test tone or a movie scene? SPL is the total sound under the curve so 108dB may not be representative of the bass capabilities of your towers, just the complete sound level. Grab a UMIK-1 and REW and we can get real measurements.
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post #28603 of 28619 Old Yesterday, 08:04 AM
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yea, i was just listening to some music w/out subs...with subs on and during a movie star wars fight scene I get 118db. with rew get 110 at -5mv

since I usually listen in the mid 90's db my point is only really need the subs for movies or electric music. but of course the more subs the better

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post #28604 of 28619 Old Yesterday, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by gopala33 View Post
i need radio shack where to buy
amazon.com unable to get
dont think they sell this model anymore, its 20 years old. could probably use a phone app.

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post #28605 of 28619 Old Yesterday, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Marc Alexander View Post
Was this playing a test tone or a movie scene? SPL is the total sound under the curve so 108dB may not be representative of the bass capabilities of your towers, just the complete sound level. Grab a UMIK-1 and REW and we can get real measurements.
I was just messing around around, nothing serious

this was my last rew with subs at -15 or so mv. I will break out rew again when I buy another rythmik sub, prob the 18.
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Power: Marantz sr7008, NAD C 275Bee x 2, Video: Oppo 103, Samsung 75un6300
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post #28606 of 28619 Old Yesterday, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by torii View Post
I was just messing around around, nothing serious

this was my last rew with subs at -15 or so mv. I will break out rew again when I buy another rythmik sub, prob the 18.
I'll report here once I receive my FV18s and get them setup. Rythmik tells me that they will ship tomorrow via UPS and should get here in a couple of days.
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anyone know how amps are measured in regards to gain setting? does max output on amp occur with gain at lowest/middle/highest?

just curious.

Power: Marantz sr7008, NAD C 275Bee x 2, Video: Oppo 103, Samsung 75un6300
Speakers: Focal aria 948, Focal cc900, Klipsch synergy KSF 10.5 Subs: Velodyne HGS 12, VA 1512, Rythmik FV15HP
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post #28608 of 28619 Old Yesterday, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by torii View Post
ply wood i dont care what kind isnt as good as mdf for subs....
This just isn't true, unless you are talking about ease of finishing. MDF holds an advantage in this area. If you are referring to low quality or low grade plywood, I would have to agree with you. But the discussion was about high quality void free Baltic Birch, which is certainly not inferior in any acoustic way to MDF. It does have the advantage of being stronger and more durable, which may or may not matter to some or most.
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post #28609 of 28619 Old Yesterday, 06:09 PM
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Hi All,


I'm seriously considering purchasing a pair of F8's. I would like to be able to tuck a floor stand (for the front monitors) partly underneath the subwoofer but can't seem to find any information on what, if anything, Rythmik provides for floor mounts. I'm hoping to be able use my SVS Soundpath floor mounts.


Are there any F8 owners that can help fill in the blanks ? A picture or two would be great. Thanks.

Sean
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post #28610 of 28619 Old Today, 01:53 AM
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Originally Posted by torii View Post
anyone know how amps are measured in regards to gain setting? does max output on amp occur with gain at lowest/middle/highest?

just curious.
The max output of a sub is finite and can potentially occur at any gain setting.

Gain is not exactly a volume setting, which is why there is a gain adjustment to begin with. Different processors have different subwoofet out voltage characteristics. The gain adjustment matches the amplifiers gain structure to the source. Google amplifier gain matching for more eloquent explanations. There is probably one on the Rythmik website somewhere.
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post #28611 of 28619 Old Today, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by bear123 View Post
This just isn't true, unless you are talking about ease of finishing. MDF holds an advantage in this area. If you are referring to low quality or low grade plywood, I would have to agree with you. But the discussion was about high quality void free Baltic Birch, which is certainly not inferior in any acoustic way to MDF. It does have the advantage of being stronger and more durable, which may or may not matter to some or most.

it is due to the weight/mass differences. just my opinion based off my experiences. if you like plywood better so be it...I dont.

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Speakers: Focal aria 948, Focal cc900, Klipsch synergy KSF 10.5 Subs: Velodyne HGS 12, VA 1512, Rythmik FV15HP
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post #28612 of 28619 Old Today, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by stash64 View Post
Hi All,


I'm seriously considering purchasing a pair of F8's. I would like to be able to tuck a floor stand (for the front monitors) partly underneath the subwoofer but can't seem to find any information on what, if anything, Rythmik provides for floor mounts. I'm hoping to be able use my SVS Soundpath floor mounts.


Are there any F8 owners that can help fill in the blanks ? A picture or two would be great. Thanks.
Sean, the insert is M6. Also know that the F8 comes with rubber feet. But if you want to use your SVS Soundpatch feet then you can because they come with 4 x M6 screws.



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Media Room: Ascend Acoustics Sierra Towers w/ RAAL, Horizon w/ RAAL & Sierra 2s | Rythmik F12SE (x2) | Marantz SR7008 | Parasound Halo P5 | Emotiva XPA-3 & XPA-200 | Oppo 105D | Sony HW40ES |
Desktop: Dynaudio BM5 mkIII | Rythmik L22 | Apogee Quartet | 27" iMac|
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post #28613 of 28619 Old Today, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by bear123 View Post
This just isn't true, unless you are talking about ease of finishing. MDF holds an advantage in this area. If you are referring to low quality or low grade plywood, I would have to agree with you. But the discussion was about high quality void free Baltic Birch, which is certainly not inferior in any acoustic way to MDF. It does have the advantage of being stronger and more durable, which may or may not matter to some or most.
I used 1/2" 9 layer Finnish Baltic Plywood on a display shelf project. I routed in 1/8" wide lines for walnut inlay strips for the pattern which was inspired by a leaded glass window design. I was amazed that all of the points look great, no chipping to the naked eye. It was easy to finish with a clear rub on poly, not sure MDF would be any easier, maybe for some finishes.

My inclination is to think MDF "could" be better for sub encosure as it seems like it is a naturally more "dead" material but could entirely just be a figment of my imagination Never got the urge to do my own speaker cabinets, maybe in part because I don't have much of a working space

Really like my Rythmik F12 in 1100 cuft room
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Hi guys,

As far as sealed subs go, it seems the L22 gets fairly little love around here, as compared to its 15 inch brothers.

My room is dedicated, sealed and 2900 cubic feet. 100% movies only.
I had a JTR Orbit Shifter LF, which was great (even though I ran it at like 15% of its capability - I had very bad nulls and could not reposition) and now I have two PSA v1500s. The PSA's are good subs also but I like to mix things up and wonder if sealed subs are for me.

I usually listen at modest levels - like -20 to -25 below reference.

I am intrigued by the servo subwoofers, I want to put them nearfield, I want the drivers to fire into my seating, and I have only 16"-17" of depth to work with.

Would three L22s nearfield be a good option? Am I wasting my time even exploring this?

DIY is not an option - no tools, no inclination and no talent.

Thanks guys.

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^^ Are you planning to replace the Psa subs in that room or adding the L22's to the Psa? Mixing ported and sealed subs are challenging. 3 L22's directly behind you will be awesome for sure.

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Hi guys,

As far as sealed subs go, it seems the L22 gets fairly little love around here, as compared to its 15 inch brothers.

My room is dedicated, sealed and 2900 cubic feet. 100% movies only.
I had a JTR Orbit Shifter LF, which was great (even though I ran it at like 15% of its capability - I had very bad nulls and could not reposition) and now I have two PSA v1500s. The PSA's are good subs also but I like to mix things up and wonder if sealed subs are for me.

I usually listen at modest levels - like -20 to -25 below reference.

I am intrigued by the servo subwoofers, I want to put them nearfield, I want the drivers to fire into my seating, and I have only 16"-17" of depth to work with.

Would three L22s nearfield be a good option? Am I wasting my time even exploring this?

DIY is not an option - no tools, no inclination and no talent.

Thanks guys.
That would be sweet but the ported subs right behind the MLP will be even better. Try it out.
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post #28617 of 28619 Old Today, 05:15 PM
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^^ Are you planning to replace the Psa subs in that room or adding the L22's to the Psa? Mixing ported and sealed subs are challenging. 3 L22's directly behind you will be awesome for sure.
The PSA subs would be replaced with three L22s.

I could also maybe one L22 and one F25 (I have more space in the nearfield location behind one seating area). I feel that three L22s may be better than one L22 and one F25, but I have no personal knowledge to back that up.
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^^ I am sure either options would be excellent. Another option is to keep your psa subs upfront and add 2-3 of the Behringer 1200D MBMs (~ 14" cube) directly behind your seatings. This option is fairly cheap and could be the ticket to bass nirvana. For more information about MBM, read post #1 of this link at the minimum.
Nearfield Ported MBM for Increased Mid-Bass Tactile Response
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvuong View Post
^^ I am sure either options would be excellent. Another option is to keep your psa subs upfront and add 2-3 of the Behringer 1200D MBMs (~ 14" cube) directly behind your seatings. This option is fairly cheap and could be the ticket to bass nirvana. For more information about MBM, read post #1 of this link at the minimum.
Nearfield Ported MBM for Increased Mid-Bass Tactile Response
Will check it out. The PSA V1500s are both near field (almost very near field - I almost sit on top of them), so I get pretty good tactile response right now. I am sure that can be improved with some dedicated MBMs.
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f12g subwoofer , lv12r , Rythmik , Rythmik Audio , Rythmik Audio F12 Direct Servo Subwoofer , Rythmik Audio F15 Subwoofer , servo sub

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