Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread - Page 967 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #28981 of 29563 Old 05-04-2017, 11:36 PM
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does anyone have the FV25HP? I have been looking online for reviews.
I am in a situation where I potentially can get a unit. Im currently running 2xPB13 Ultras and 1xPB16 in my HT / living room.

Can / will the FV25HP play well with the SVS Ultras?

any advise would be appreciated.
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post #28982 of 29563 Old 05-05-2017, 01:12 AM
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@Timothy1180 where are you moving from/to in Cali? SoCal? I'm sure @kyzer soze and I would love checkout your extremely capable setup (Especially once FV25s are added). You have a unique perspective in regards to focusing on the 20-60Hz octaves for your subs. I think I can tolerate your extreme >120dB LFE for some demos one afternoon.

I have 3 rooms w/5.1 or more. One capable of single digit response (sealed PSA subs). One with output down to 15Hz (ported Seatons). My bedroom system doesn't have much below 25Hz but can still rock (4 subs, 2 under the bed). We rarely ever listen above -10dB MV with subs +10dB. In all cases LFE caps out between 110-120dB.

I have found pleasure in achieving greater tactile response at lower SPL levels (utilizing nearfield placements and TTs). I do utilize D + M processors BTW, but my outboard amp sensitivities are only 0.8V & 1.0V.

What is your thought concerning the 60-120Hz? Do you let your mains deal with this octave. How do you rank its importance vs 20-60 Hz and <20Hz?

Can you describe why you prefer Low damping to Mid or High. I would assume Low would perform/decay more like a conventional sub vs the tight accuracy of High. I believe most people run High here, including Enrico and Brian.

Nice to have you participating in the thread. We are anxious to see who will be the first to unleash FV25s in the wild!
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post #28983 of 29563 Old 05-05-2017, 01:16 AM
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Originally Posted by januza View Post
Im currently running 2xPB13 Ultras and 1xPB16 in my HT / living room.

Can / will the FV25HP play well with the SVS Ultras?

any advise would be appreciated.
Can you provide more information regarding your space and current setup? What are you lacking and hoping an additional sub would provide? Is another PB16 an option or is there a reason you are looking to go another direction?
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post #28984 of 29563 Old 05-05-2017, 01:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Marc Alexander View Post
Can you provide more information regarding your space and current setup? What are you lacking and hoping an additional sub would provide? Is another PB16 an option or is there a reason you are looking to go another direction?
well.....

I have met with dealer of Rythmik China and have received a good offer for a unit here. As I am a bit of an extreme bass head I was curious if I could mix this dual sub with my other units. Im honestly not lacking bass but I guess you can call me a bass crack head and I cannot get enough...
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post #28985 of 29563 Old 05-05-2017, 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Timothy1180 View Post
Epik conquest: amazing sub. Huge 18" driver. Probably better than most made now. Earth shattering lows.

Epik empire: chad talked me into these. I had 4. Dual opposed 15". Huge mid bass. Usable output down to 8-10hz. Especially with 4

Seaton submersivehp: amazing sub but sounded like 2 epik empire. After empire amps died I wanted something different

Svs:tried pb1000 not good anywhere. Was going to be bedroom sub. Pb2000 it's ok was bought for my sons room nothing life changing. Svs pc12plus was bought to save room and no midbass and lows were just so so. Big disappointment. Pb13ultra was ok again but not what I wanted. I wanted 30-60hz bass that sounded clean and loud above 120db. So I gave up on svs.

Psa: than I went to Psa. Lol. Got two xv15 was really surprised how good they were. Excellent lows and midbass slam. Than I wanted more

Rythmik: got one rythmik lv12r for my music room. Just was ok. It made some bad noises and hit limiter easily. Also got two Rythmik fv15hp. Was great. Had that high sound quality. Almost like a sealed sub with ported output. Than I called Tom at Psa. Lol

Psa: Tom talked me into Xv30fse and took one of my Rythmik as trade. Lol. Great guy. He still has it. I kept one fv15hp for music room. Still have it. Xv30fse was a monster and gave me amazing output but was really similar to fv15hp. So I wanted more so I added two xs30 to the mix. Great subs. Midbass was there. Lows was there it was perfect. Than we moved and we no longer had media room. Damn my disease that stopped me from working. Lol

We moved and I tried svs that I already talked about like pc12plus. Needed smaller footprint.

hsu: vtf3 mk5 for my bedroom was incredible was very tunable and really good tight clean bass. Just recently sold it was overkill

Than wife said I could have one awesome sub in our living room so I went dss. Found a guy selling used locally.

Dss: had the 24" mariana. Great sub. So clean. Was very happy with low extension and so much output everywhere. I think I fell in love with the hi end look. I was missing what I had once before. So I sold it.

Jtr:cap1400. Was great sub. Maybe the best single sub I had. Massive output. Great sound quality. Sub screams don't turn the lights on. Wife hated the look. So it was gone.

Psa: talked wife into two psa v1800. Moved everything around. To get two subs in. Everything was better again. I realized I needed 2 subs at least. The bass just wasn't what my rythmiks were or my old Psa setup. They were good just a looser sound. If that makes since.

Rythmik: back to two fv15hp with xlr master slave. Brian informed me they had new drivers. Made me happy! Wow as soon as I heard them I was back to what I wanted. Deep clean bass. Was perfect for me. Brought me back to the sound of my 4 epik and my seaton. That sealed slam with the ported lows. Great combo.

Now we are moving again to a bigger house with a media room. First thing I do in that room is 2 fv25 to go with 2 fv15hp. It'll be the best system I've ever had.

Sorry for such a long post. If you want me to go into more detail about certain sub I will. Just didn't want to go to crazy. Lol
Thanks. 2FV25's and 2 FV15's, I envy you what is yoor room size?
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post #28986 of 29563 Old 05-05-2017, 06:22 AM
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On gain structure: Most consumer amplifiers have enough gain to reach full-scale output with 1-2 Vrms input. Consumer components have that in mind. No use clipping the amp's input. Pro amplifiers typically accept 4 V rms or more since pro levels are higher by default (noisier environment, more headroom needed for live work, etc.) To imply a component is bad because it has lower output is generally erroneous, and having much higher output than ever needed is not always an advantage. Not that clean power and high SPLs without distortion are bad, but you really have to look at the overall gain chain and system requirements, not just pull one number out in isolation.

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post #28987 of 29563 Old 05-05-2017, 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Timothy1180 View Post
Never inferred anything about over 100 db about you. I was talking about other people that I know and have heard their systems. I saw you say you don't exceed 115-120db. The fv18 is a awesome sub without a doubt! I'm glad you are very happy with them. I'm a huge rythmik fan. I didn't say get something like a pair of svs pb2000. I said a pair of fv15hp would of been plenty. The fv18 is without a doubt better than fv15hp. Maybe I'll talk to Brian again soon about this, but it's only 2db louder in the lower bass. And around that in the mid bass as well.

The sound quality on fv18 and fv15hp will be very similar. Except fv18 gets louder. Which is great. At 115 db it would be hard to tell the difference from fv18 and fv15hp.

My next move will be two fv25 in stereo with my two fv15hp near field. Two fv15hp stacked is better than one fv25.

Also that might be why your getting so many rattles and creeks. That low bass isn't really useable to all. You might want to change your settings and run sub wide open to cut those low frequencies out.

Those are just my observations. I do love it loud I won't apologize for that. I also enjoy clean sounding subs. That's why I stick to rythmik. Jtr you talked about are monsters and very nice. I'd just never want a sub that looks like that again.

I've done seaton. Jtr. Psa. Epik. Elemental. Hsu. Svs. Deep sea and more.

Just keep coming back to rythmik. Lol
I apologize if I took your last post too personally. Anyway, it encouraged me to breakout my UMIK-1, open the SPL meter in REW, and check what my peaks listening levels are. I watched the scene of the initial assault in Hacksaw Ridge in which the battleships pound the Japanese positions with 16 inch gunfire before the Army launches the attack. The peaks were between 100 and 105 SPL but I was getting as much of that in the <15Hz range as I was everywhere else. The result was that my room shook and I could feel the vibrations in my chest. Fun stuff, something you as an even bigger bass-head than I am would understand.

I agree that JTR's basic black painted wood finishes are a negative. The upside, though, is that Jeff's premium finishes are startlingly beautiful. I really like Jeff and JTR but couldn't find a sub in his lineup that would suit my needs as well as the FV18s. I love the JTR 4000ULF but couldn't figure out a way to make it work in my limited space.

Be sure to let us know what you think of the FV25s when you get them. They are the only subs on the horizon, which appear to even approach having the power of the 4000ULF.

HT setup: Sony 75XBR X940D UHD HDR TV; Kaleidescape Strato Movie Server 6 TB; Yamaha RX-A3060 AV receiver; Sonamp 2-1 2channel 100W power amp; Crestron Control System; 2 Rythmik FV18 subwoofers, 6 Hsu HB-1 Bookshelf speakers, 1 Hsu HC-1 Center speaker, 4 Focal ICW8 in-ceiling Atmos speakers; Oppo UDP-203 4K HDR BD player; Mac Mini HTPC. TiVO Bolt 1TB DVR; TiVo Premiere Elite 2 TB DVR

Last edited by gwsat; 05-05-2017 at 06:56 AM.
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post #28988 of 29563 Old 05-05-2017, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by gwsat View Post
Be sure to let us know what you think of the FV25s when you get them. They are the only subs on the horizon, which appear to even approach having the power of the 4000ULF.
No, the FV25 won't come close to the Cap4000 output wise. FV25 ~ Cap2400ULF for output.
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post #28989 of 29563 Old 05-05-2017, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by gwsat View Post
I apologize if I took your last post too personally. Anyway, it encouraged me to breakout my UMIK-1, open the SPL meter in REW, and check what my peaks listening levels are. I watched the scene of the initial assault in Hacksaw Ridge in which the battleships pound the Japanese positions with 16 inch gunfire before the Army launches the attack. The peaks were between 100 and 105 SPL but I was getting as much of that in the <15Hz range as I was everywhere else. The result was that my room shook and I could feel the vibrations in my chest. Fun stuff, something you as an even bigger bass-head than I am would understand.

I agree that JTR's basic black painted wood finishes are a negative. The upside, though, is that Jeff's premium finishes are startlingly beautiful. I really like Jeff and JTR but couldn't find a sub in his lineup that would suit my needs as well as the FV18s. I love the JTR 4000ULF but couldn't figure out a way to make it work in my limited space.

Be sure to let us know what you think of the FV25s when you get them. They are the only subs on the horizon, which appear to even approach having the power of the 4000ULF.
was spl meter set to z weighted and fast? the spl logger is real good for this and you won't miss any split second peaks and z weighted insures you capture the under 30Hz stuff

Current Setup REW measures

UN46EH6030 Calibration/Settings

Samsung UN46EH6030; Yamaha HTR-3066, SVS Prime Bookshelf Mains and Prime Center, Sony SS-CS5 Surrounds, Cambridge S20 Rear Surrounds, Rythmik LV12R; PS4 Slim, Xbox One, Xfinity X1
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post #28990 of 29563 Old 05-05-2017, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marc Alexander View Post
@Timothy1180 where are you moving from/to in Cali? SoCal? I'm sure @kyzer soze and I would love checkout your extremely capable setup (Especially once FV25s are added). You have a unique perspective in regards to focusing on the 20-60Hz octaves for your subs. I think I can tolerate your extreme &gt;120dB LFE for some demos one afternoon.

I have 3 rooms w/5.1 or more. One capable of single digit response (sealed PSA subs). One with output down to 15Hz (ported Seatons). My bedroom system doesn't have much below 25Hz but can still rock (4 subs, 2 under the bed). We rarely ever listen above -10dB MV with subs +10dB. In all cases LFE caps out between 110-120dB.

I have found pleasure in achieving greater tactile response at lower SPL levels (utilizing nearfield placements and TTs). I do utilize D + M processors BTW, but my outboard amp sensitivities are only 0.8V & 1.0V.

What is your thought concerning the 60-120Hz? Do you let your mains deal with this octave. How do you rank its importance vs 20-60 Hz and &lt;20Hz?

Can you describe why you prefer Low damping to Mid or High. I would assume Low would perform/decay more like a conventional sub vs the tight accuracy of High. I believe most people run High here, including Enrico and Brian.

Nice to have you participating in the thread. We are anxious to see who will be the first to unleash FV25s in the wild!
I'm in Northern California. Close to Sacramento. Your always welcome to come by. I'm really lucky the way I deliver my mid bass.

My front tower speakers are definitive bp7001sc. Built in 10" hp subs. 1500watt amp in each tower. Mid bass will sound tight, clean and all around with these guys. I've done frequency sweeps from 50-120hz and these towers peak output is 116-120db.

Also I go back and forth between high and low and medium. The biggest difference at high spl is the pitch of the bass sounds the best on high. On low the bass has more of a ring to it. Either way they are all more than fine. Splitting hairs really.

I was told this analogy years ago by this high car audio box builder. "If you want to put a fire out you don't get a garden hose and stand 20' back than put finger to spray farther. You drop a f****ng lake on it. "

Lol that was the way he was. You have a math problem. Amp power X port flow = bass extension. Yes plugging one port squeezing all that air out of one port makes this low frequency extension. One small port too. That's why I get port noise at high spl on 1 port. I'm trying to put a lake through a garden hose. Also in one port mode you are making your amp work way harder. Actually limiting capabilities of the sub.

Someone can test this with a tower or bookshelves speaker they don't care about. Maybe a old receiver. Stuff the ports and crank volume to super high levels. Than pull port open. It'll be so much louder.

I just like to run them wide open. Like wild animals.

Last edited by Timothy1180; 05-05-2017 at 11:41 AM. Reason: Wrong
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post #28991 of 29563 Old 05-05-2017, 08:04 AM
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Room is 20' by 25' by 20'. Open on two sides.

Your fv18 are also awesome subs and your right jtr is a great company. They just are making so many great subs now. Every company has so much spl now. Most people don't need that much bass.

My friends have two cap orbit shifters. They are incredible but a lot of people might be surprised that in the 115-125db range my rythmik sound better. Now his gets louder. It just starts to sound sloppy the louder it gets.
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post #28992 of 29563 Old 05-05-2017, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post
was spl meter set to z weighted and fast? the spl logger is real good for this and you won't miss any split second peaks and z weighted insures you capture the under 30Hz stuff
Yeah, one of the Wise Men who post to the REW thread had warned me about the need to set the REW SPL meter for Z weighting and Fast in order to accurately measure all of the LFE so I did it. Interestingly, I also checked to lean what my old RadioShack SPL meter said. It thought the peaks were <100dB because it couldn't measure all of the LFE. That was a nice object lesson for me.
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post #28993 of 29563 Old 05-05-2017, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Skylinestar View Post
What do you think of Canare star quad cable if the source has RCA output and the amp has XLR input with this components? Someone told me that this is better than a standard RCA-RCA connection & will help in noise reduction.
Male XLR to Male RCA
XLR cable with star quad
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Originally Posted by enricoclaudio View Post
Using that adapter won't make the connection better because it will work the same as a RCA cable (unbalanced). You can make a RCA out (unbalanced) balanced using a passive or active DI box. A passive DI box that I recommend for this kind of job is this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Whirlwind-Dir...ords=pc+di+box

You can find cheaper DI boxes for about $20, though.

The Canare star quad cable is a good cable. All my XLR cables are Mogami Studio Gold (quad cables as well).

In reference to the the bolded part of your post, this piece, written by Bill Whitlock of Jensen Transformers, shows the circuitry for the XLR-RCA connection noted above. See figure 2.1. The piece also has a lot of good information on balanced connections. Mr. Whitlock is an expert in this field. You can often find his presentations on YouTube.

http://www.jhbrandt.net/wp-content/u...-Equipment.pdf

While an XLR to XLR connection would be best, a connection of an RCA output to XLR input using the set of cables noted in the first post, if that's all that is available, can be an improvement over RCA to RCA, as Mr. Whitlock notes.

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post #28994 of 29563 Old 05-05-2017, 09:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skylinestar View Post
What do you think of Canare star quad cable if the source has RCA output and the amp has XLR input with this components? Someone told me that this is better than a standard RCA-RCA connection & will help in noise reduction.
Male XLR to Male RCA
XLR cable with star quad
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Originally Posted by DonH50 View Post
Hmmm... (1)Quad cables typically comprise redundant twisted pairs to provide greater common-mode suppression for long microphone runs. I have seen folk talking about it here (AVS) and on other audio forums but to me it seems like overkill for line connections in general and even more so for a sub. The capacitance is also higher, not usually a big deal for line level signals in general and less so for subs, (2)but again why bother?

(3)I do not know how the connectors are configured. Obviously going to an RCA (single-ended) connection at one end means you lose a lot of the benefits of differential connections. Where an extra shield can benefit is if the signal ground is isolated from the cable shield, usually by a small resistor or directly tied to chassis ground (at a different place than signal ground) and/or by disconnecting the shield at one end so it acts a Faraday'ish shield without any signal current. Typically the latter is done by tying the outer shield to the ground pin of the XLR and leaving it floating at the RCA end. That way the outer shield provides some shielding of HF noise (RFI) and doesn't corrupt the inner signal ground return.

Personally if I needed such a configuration I'd go with coax that has an extra outer shield and do the same thing but without the twisted pair. If you are in a very high-noise environment and the differential receiver has good common-mode rejection that could benefit. In the real world common-mode rejection is all but gone by the time you reach a few hundred kHz to a few MHz so it may not do much good anyway.

If you really need differential, then run XLR to XLR and use a transformer (typical passive DI boxes use that approach, like the one Enrico linked) or active circuit (active DI box) to convert back to single-ended just before the RCA connector.

Random babbling - Don

(1) If you mean star quad cables in this part of your post, then that statement isn't correct. Star quad cables aren't made up of multiple twisted pair cables; multiple conductors, but not multiple twisted pairs. There is a difference. Perhaps you are thinking of Ethernet or HDMI cables. Here are a couple good links to the details of star quad construction and demonstration of the benefits.

https://benchmarkmedia.com/blogs/app...crophone-cable

https://benchmarkmedia.com/blogs/app...stration-video

(2) Hopefully the links above, and other information that is easily obtained on the Internet will help you answer this question.

(3) It's rather obvious that the RCA male is connected to the output of a piece of equipment, the XLR male on the other end of that cable is then connected to the female end of the XLR cable. The male end of the XLR cable is then connected to the input of a piece of equipment. How else would you connect this set of cables using standard equipment? While this connection is not as good as an XLR to XLR connection, it can provide improvements in performance if only an RCA output is available.

Here is a piece (this link is included in a nearby post as well), written by Bill Whitlock of Jensen Transformers, that shows the circuitry for the XLR-RCA connection noted above. See figure 2.1. The piece also has a lot of good information on balanced connections including the use of transformers. Mr. Whitlock is an expert in this field. You can often find his presentations on YouTube.

http://www.jhbrandt.net/wp-content/u...-Equipment.pdf
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post #28995 of 29563 Old 05-05-2017, 09:30 AM
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Room is 20' by 25' by 20'. Open on two sides.

Your fv18 are also awesome subs and your right jtr is a great company. They just are making so many great subs now. Every company has so much spl now. Most people don't need that much bass.

My friends have two cap orbit shifters. They are incredible but a lot of people might be surprised that in the 115-125db range my rythmik sound better. Now his gets louder. It just starts to sound sloppy the louder it gets.
There really are a lot of great subwoofers available from high end makers these days. When I bought my Hsu VTF-3 MK3 Turbo nine years ago, I thought its 12 inch driver, large ports and 350W amp would be all I would ever need. Ha! My Hsu sub was great for the money and for its day. These days, though, the exponentially superior modern subs now available from Rythmik, JTR, and others give we bass-heads a lot of can't miss choices. For example, I couldn't be happier with my FV18s. They are fun, fun, fun!
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HT setup: Sony 75XBR X940D UHD HDR TV; Kaleidescape Strato Movie Server 6 TB; Yamaha RX-A3060 AV receiver; Sonamp 2-1 2channel 100W power amp; Crestron Control System; 2 Rythmik FV18 subwoofers, 6 Hsu HB-1 Bookshelf speakers, 1 Hsu HC-1 Center speaker, 4 Focal ICW8 in-ceiling Atmos speakers; Oppo UDP-203 4K HDR BD player; Mac Mini HTPC. TiVO Bolt 1TB DVR; TiVo Premiere Elite 2 TB DVR
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post #28996 of 29563 Old 05-05-2017, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by bigguyca View Post
In reference to the the bolded part of your post, this piece, written by Bill Whitlock of Jensen Transformers, shows the circuitry for the XLR-RCA connection noted above. See figure 2.1. The piece also has a lot of good information on balanced connections. Mr. Whitlock is an expert in this field. You can often find his presentations on YouTube.

http://www.jhbrandt.net/wp-content/u...-Equipment.pdf

While an XLR to XLR connection would be best, a connection of an RCA output to XLR input using the set of cables noted in the first post, if that's all that is available, can be an improvement over RCA to RCA, as Mr. Whitlock notes.
On my statement, I was talking about fully differential in/outs (XLR - XLR). I can run 300 ft balanced cables (XLR - XLR) without any degradation on the signal. Using those adapters the cable becomes single ended (unbalanced) so after 50 ft you will get noise or interference.



Enrico Castagnetti @ Rythmik Audio
Media Room: Ascend Acoustics Sierra Towers w/ RAAL, Horizon w/ RAAL & Sierra 2s | Rythmik F12SE (x2) | Marantz SR7008 | Parasound Halo P5 | Emotiva XPA-3 & XPA-200 | Oppo 105D | Sony HW40ES |
Desktop: Dynaudio BM5 mkIII | Rythmik L22 | Apogee Quartet | 27" iMac|
Bedroom: B&W 685 S2 | Rythmik LVX12 | Marantz NR1606 | Emotiva XPA-200 Gen 2 | Samsung UN50JU6500 |
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post #28997 of 29563 Old 05-05-2017, 09:44 AM
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Very true gwsat. So many choices out there. Really is incredible time for subwoofers.

Just wish it was 2000-2008 time for avr and preamps. That's was their pinnacle of greatness. Imagine a marantz 7011 weighing 30lbs with 2v preouts in 2005. That would be a $399 avr. Lol

Something like a 70lb denon 5803 that has 18v Preouts. From 2005. Now if we could just put all the new sound fields and hdmi in our older receivers.
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post #28998 of 29563 Old 05-05-2017, 06:23 PM
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when I buy my 2nd rhythmik to go along with my 15hp, I keep wondering if just to match it w/2nd 15hp...or get an F18 or get F25. I would like cosmetically to get a huge sub that would do double duty as a console table behind my loveseat.

size/dimensions are so important imo.

anyone think the larger models will play nice with my 15hp...or just get a 2nd 15hp which I would probably place as an end table either to loveseat or my couch...

edit my floorplan is pretty adjustable so dont take pic as gospel. and a new time consuming adjustment tool
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Power: Marantz sr7008, NAD C 275Bee x 2, Video: Oppo 103, Samsung 75un6300
Speakers: Focal aria 948, Focal cc900, Klipsch synergy KSF 10.5 Subs: Velodyne HGS 12, VA 1512, Rythmik FV15HP

Last edited by torii; 05-05-2017 at 06:31 PM.
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post #28999 of 29563 Old 05-05-2017, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by torii View Post
when I buy my 2nd rhythmik to go along with my 15hp, I keep wondering if just to match it w/2nd 15hp...or get an F18 or get F25. I would like cosmetically to get a huge sub that would do double duty as a console table behind my loveseat.

size/dimensions are so important imo.

anyone think the larger models will play nice with my 15hp...or just get a 2nd 15hp which I would probably place as an end table either to loveseat or my couch...

edit my floorplan is pretty adjustable so dont take pic as gospel.
@TulsaCoker has two mismatched SVS subs, one ported and one sealed, in his home theater. He EQed them with YPAO and an SPL meter and has been pleased with the results. They sound good to me too.

HT setup: Sony 75XBR X940D UHD HDR TV; Kaleidescape Strato Movie Server 6 TB; Yamaha RX-A3060 AV receiver; Sonamp 2-1 2channel 100W power amp; Crestron Control System; 2 Rythmik FV18 subwoofers, 6 Hsu HB-1 Bookshelf speakers, 1 Hsu HC-1 Center speaker, 4 Focal ICW8 in-ceiling Atmos speakers; Oppo UDP-203 4K HDR BD player; Mac Mini HTPC. TiVO Bolt 1TB DVR; TiVo Premiere Elite 2 TB DVR
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post #29000 of 29563 Old 05-05-2017, 06:43 PM
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@TulsaCoker has two mismatched SVS subs, one ported and one sealed, in his home theater. He EQed them with YPAO and an SPL meter and has been pleased with the results. They sound good to me too.
yea, i spent a month or so tweaking positioning my velodyne subs to play nice with rhythmik...its possible, but was a pain in the ass.

thank you for comment/opinion/fact.

Power: Marantz sr7008, NAD C 275Bee x 2, Video: Oppo 103, Samsung 75un6300
Speakers: Focal aria 948, Focal cc900, Klipsch synergy KSF 10.5 Subs: Velodyne HGS 12, VA 1512, Rythmik FV15HP
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post #29001 of 29563 Old 05-05-2017, 06:58 PM
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got some space 32in high, 62in wide...maybe 18 or so deep...

http://costasolestate.com/wp-content...table-desk.jpg

Power: Marantz sr7008, NAD C 275Bee x 2, Video: Oppo 103, Samsung 75un6300
Speakers: Focal aria 948, Focal cc900, Klipsch synergy KSF 10.5 Subs: Velodyne HGS 12, VA 1512, Rythmik FV15HP
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post #29002 of 29563 Old 05-05-2017, 07:00 PM
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yea, i spent a month or so tweaking positioning my velodyne subs to play nice with rhythmik...its possible, but was a pain in the ass.

thank you for comment/opinion/fact.
If you can keep the FV15 near field and want to run 1 port, I would add a FV25. If you plan to run all ports open on both then go FV15 nearfield and FV18 at the furthest point.
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post #29003 of 29563 Old 05-05-2017, 07:02 PM
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From what I understand pair of 15hp is better than one fv25. Fv18 is kinda the in between model. All 3 are awesome. Down low the fv18 might be close to fv25.

I've done this experiment before with Psa. Two xv15se was better than one Psa xv30fse. It's mostly amp power. Fv15hp 600 watt amp is way underrated. Could someone confirm power draw on fv18 and fv25 amp plate? Fv15hp is 1000 watts of power draw. Big transformer. It like my adcom power amp in a sub. Lol

I'm excited to try their new class d amps. Just wondering if it's better. Definitely cooler and more efficient.

I remember talking to Brian years ago about the Fv15hp amp. Said 600 to be very conservative. He even mentioned that he could of said it made more power than pb13ultra and it would of been true.

I'll add 2 fv25 to my 2 fv15hp I bet they'll sound very similar but I'll be tripling my output.

If I was you I'd probably add fv25. Put it upfront. Than put your Fv15hp right next to seat. Should blend well and be like having 3-4 fv15hp
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post #29004 of 29563 Old 05-05-2017, 07:08 PM
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I could fit almost anything anywhere with some relocation. I dont like the front wall idea as it would be a focal point. so I am leaning to next to my couch replacing little end table w/15hp. behind my couch, next to my beer fridge behind my mlp under bar(cant see). behind love seat, or even in kitchen nook area...basically where I feed my dog.

just thinking out loud when i used rack stand, i am guessing this where sub would go, see attached
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Power: Marantz sr7008, NAD C 275Bee x 2, Video: Oppo 103, Samsung 75un6300
Speakers: Focal aria 948, Focal cc900, Klipsch synergy KSF 10.5 Subs: Velodyne HGS 12, VA 1512, Rythmik FV15HP
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post #29005 of 29563 Old 05-05-2017, 07:32 PM
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What spots in your room are the best for bass. Have you done a sub crawl?
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post #29006 of 29563 Old 05-05-2017, 07:34 PM
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I did with my velodyne hgs 12 3 years ago lol. maybe I need to do another, its been a while. all the rew calculators say in my space closer to mlp the better.

its a big 30x50x14ft+ space with openings...hard to manage on my gpa.

Power: Marantz sr7008, NAD C 275Bee x 2, Video: Oppo 103, Samsung 75un6300
Speakers: Focal aria 948, Focal cc900, Klipsch synergy KSF 10.5 Subs: Velodyne HGS 12, VA 1512, Rythmik FV15HP
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post #29007 of 29563 Old 05-05-2017, 08:01 PM
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Interesting thing how rew can't really determine the best place or orientation. I had a perfect spot for my dss 24". Ran rew. Was perfect.

Than got Rythmiks back. That spot was horrible for them. Bass wasn't much in that spot. Way the ports interact in your room.

I like front firing ports but I will say that down firing port in xv30fse was great. Sounded great anywhere you put it. Rear firing ports aren't for me. Xv15 would make wall rattle behind it. If I had to choose I'd take down firing. But I like looking at my driver and ports too.
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post #29008 of 29563 Old 05-05-2017, 08:15 PM
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my velodyne hgs 12 sealed, the 1512 is 12in driver 15in pr, rhytmik 15 front ported...imo, the best sounding was the passive radiator sub by itself and its the cheapest and 20 years old...but isnt high output.

I really want a showcase huge sub that blends well with aesthetics...but I am not being overblown with options because not a huge niche.

Power: Marantz sr7008, NAD C 275Bee x 2, Video: Oppo 103, Samsung 75un6300
Speakers: Focal aria 948, Focal cc900, Klipsch synergy KSF 10.5 Subs: Velodyne HGS 12, VA 1512, Rythmik FV15HP
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post #29009 of 29563 Old 05-05-2017, 09:11 PM
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@Timothy1180 where are you moving from/to in Cali? SoCal? I'm sure @kyzer soze and I would love checkout your extremely capable setup (Especially once FV25s are added). You have a unique perspective in regards to focusing on the 20-60Hz octaves for your subs. I think I can tolerate your extreme >120dB LFE for some demos one afternoon.

I have 3 rooms w/5.1 or more. One capable of single digit response (sealed PSA subs). One with output down to 15Hz (ported Seatons). My bedroom system doesn't have much below 25Hz but can still rock (4 subs, 2 under the bed). We rarely ever listen above -10dB MV with subs +10dB. In all cases LFE caps out between 110-120dB.

I have found pleasure in achieving greater tactile response at lower SPL levels (utilizing nearfield placements and TTs). I do utilize D + M processors BTW, but my outboard amp sensitivities are only 0.8V & 1.0V.

What is your thought concerning the 60-120Hz? Do you let your mains deal with this octave. How do you rank its importance vs 20-60 Hz and <20Hz?

Can you describe why you prefer Low damping to Mid or High. I would assume Low would perform/decay more like a conventional sub vs the tight accuracy of High. I believe most people run High here, including Enrico and Brian.

Nice to have you participating in the thread. We are anxious to see who will be the first to unleash FV25s in the wild!
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post #29010 of 29563 Old 05-05-2017, 09:15 PM
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FV25 is +9db over a FV15HP below 16hz and +5-6db above 20hz. FV18 is down 4-5db across the board to a FV25.
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