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#1 ·
 http://www.rythmikaudio.com/index.html


There never seems to be an 'Official' Rythmik thread so....


Hopefully members can post here and representatives from Rythmik (Brian) can more readily answer questions that are normally strewn about in many threads.


Rythmik now offers complete subwoofers as well as the traditional kits.


Maybe Brian will subscribe.
 
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#17,841 ·
Going OT a bit here, but I imagine JRiver already supports bitstreaming Atmos, correct? Of course, to apply Dirac before the sound leaves the PC requires conversion to PCM, so JRiver would also have to be able to decode it (and you'd need Dirac to do more than the current limit of 8 channels). Then, if it were to work with an AVR, the PC and the AVR would have to be able to send/receive all channels via HDMI. It is my understanding that HDMI hardware right now (and maybe the HDMI standard itself?) only supports 8 channels of PCM.

Assuming that there is an 8 channel limit on HDMI, the only option left AFAICT would be to have the computer do D/A conversion and have a sound card with the requisite number of channels out to amplifiers. Or would there be another way to get all those PCM channels out of the PC for D/A conversion eslewhere?

Since the only boxes currently capable of more than 11 channels are $15k+ it seems that the HTPC would be the least expensive way to get, say, 9.1.6 Atmos. Lots of hurdles though.

Anyway, sorry to veer off course. I just haven't heard many people talking about Atmos from HTPC, so I'm curious what you know.
That's right. I'd imagine that JRiver would be able to pass bitstream Atmos to a receiver, but I don't have an Atmos receiver, so I've never tried it.

Any processing, like Dirac or bass mgmt, needs to happen after the Atmos decode, which is problematic.

You could use a multichannel DAC from the PC. There are a few pro audio ones out there. Like that Motu 24Ao ($), Lynx Aurora 16 ($$), or an Antelope Orion32 ($$$).

HDMI 2.0 adds support for up to 32 PCM audio channels, but I don't know if a receiver would know what to do with that.

If/when JRiver adds Atmos, I'll probably pick up one of those Motu 24Ao's, unless someone has come out with a reasonably priced Dirac + Atmos receiver by then.
 
#17,842 · (Edited)
That's just it, I'm not necessarily looking for that output below 20hz. So if it just comes down to the difference in measurements that I'm aware of, then I'll stick with the HSU and save the $400. However, I read things like the Rythmik will be more musical, it will have better sound quality, it will have tighter, more agile bass, it will have better build quality, it will play better at lower volumes, etc. Well then great, I don't mind spending the extra. But, being somewhat of an audio newb and trying to take everything I read with a grain of salt, I wonder how much is actually true and how much of a difference would I ever be able to tell on my own if I parked either f those subs in the corner of my room.

And yes, I have been active in different threads. I've been all over the place with this search for a sub, it's a lot of money and I want to spend it wisely.

To be honest, I may be a perfect candidate for the FV15HP's little brother, hopefully due out soon. I'd prefer to stay closer to $1,000 and like what I hear about the Rythmik products. I've got an inquiry in to them about the new model, so we'll see where that goes as well
I know exactly what I would do if I were in your situation. Seeing as you want to stay as close as possible to $1000, and want a sub that sounds good at lower volume, with tight, agile bass, then either the E15HP or F15HP is perfect for you. The matte black E is currently on sale for $1024 plus shipping, the F $1074, and both provide everything you're looking for. Their sealed enclosures give them a slightly cleaner sound than the ported models, and any of the HSU's as well. They don't have the output of the FV, but you don't seem to require more than the E15HP or F15HP will give you.
 
#17,843 ·
I tried changing from LFE in to LINE in on the plate amp of the F12G and it made no difference to the hum.

Also tried putting a reactor on the RCA cable coming out of the receiver and no joy. Hum still exists.

Both the receiver and sub are connected to the same power outlet.

When operating on the old receiver (Marantz NR-1504) there was no hum.:confused:
Just an update on this long oustanding issue. Think I've isolated the hum to the TV cable from the wall.

Last week, while moving things around, I noticed the hum still coming out of the F12G. As I un-plugged the TV cable the hum disappeared which caught me by surprise. I then re-connected the TV cable and the hum re-appeared. This is now reproducible.

Having identified where the hum came from, ordered the following TV cable line isolator from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Viewsonics-VS...d_sim_e_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0CPQAF7NARHBK422AJ76

Hopefully this gets rid of the annoying hum on the F12G.
 
#17,844 · (Edited)
If you can place a sub near field behind the seat, that might be all you need.
Near field placement can get you great results, but it's not always practical.
This has me wondering. I was planning on dual subs. So pretend that I already have them:

If Audyssey XT32 + SubEQ HT equalizes the sum of the two subs, will that be a problem if one is nearfield behind the seat and one is 10-12 feet away in a corner? I plan to cross at 60Hz.
 
#17,846 ·
Just an update on this long oustanding issue. Think I've isolated the hum to the TV cable from the wall.

Last week, while moving things around, I noticed the hum still coming out of the F12G. As I un-plugged the TV cable the hum disappeared which caught me by surprise. I then re-connected the TV cable and the hum re-appeared. This is now reproducible.

Having identified where the hum came from, ordered the following TV cable line isolator from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Viewsonics-VS...d_sim_e_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0CPQAF7NARHBK422AJ76

Hopefully this gets rid of the annoying hum on the F12G.
I hope that solves your problem. I had a sub hum for a long time. After troubleshooting, I found the issue to be a light dimmer in the same room. I enjoy dimming my lights for movies and do not want to get rid of the dimmer. The dimmer is causing RFI to bleed into my subwoofer speaker cable (pre-ran by the home builder inside the wall). Anyways, a ground loop isolator helped reduce the noise but did not completely eliminate it. The only fix was a combination of the ground loop isolator and connecting the sub through the line in.
 
#17,847 ·
While looking to buy a new sub, one area I know I'm lacking is the level of audyssey in my receiver. In my basement I'm running a Tascam par200 that I scored for cheap. I moved my Denon 1713 to the living room. So the sub I choose will be in the basement with the 2eq level audyssey. Will this be counter productive when spending money on a high end sub? I like the features on the Tascam, but could swap back for the audyssey xt on the Denon.

Does the peq on the Rythmiks offer anything in my scenario?
 
#17,848 ·
I hope that solves your problem. I had a sub hum for a long time. After troubleshooting, I found the issue to be a light dimmer in the same room. I enjoy dimming my lights for movies and do not want to get rid of the dimmer. The dimmer is causing RFI to bleed into my subwoofer speaker cable (pre-ran by the home builder inside the wall). Anyways, a ground loop isolator helped reduce the noise but did not completely eliminate it. The only fix was a combination of the ground loop isolator and connecting the sub through the line in.
You can buy low-noise (filtered, zero-voltage switching) dimmers. Cost more but well worth it in a situation like that.
 
#17,849 ·
This has me wondering. I was planning on dual subs. So pretend that I already have them:

If Audyssey XT32 + SubEQ HT equalizes the sum of the two subs, will that be a problem if one is nearfield behind the seat and one is 10-12 feet away in a corner? I plan to cross at 60Hz.
XT32 will handle that fine. The far sub will run out steam long before the near one, though.

It would be good to experiment with different placement combinations (both near, both far, etc.) to see what works out best.
 
#17,850 ·
While looking to buy a new sub, one area I know I'm lacking is the level of audyssey in my receiver. In my basement I'm running a Tascam par200 that I scored for cheap. I moved my Denon 1713 to the living room. So the sub I choose will be in the basement with the 2eq level audyssey. Will this be counter productive when spending money on a high end sub? I like the features on the Tascam, but could swap back for the audyssey xt on the Denon.

Does the peq on the Rythmiks offer anything in my scenario?
Sure. If you get REW and a calibrated mic, you could measure and see how you're doing.
 
#17,853 ·
Brian,
Will you comment on the discussion above :)

We can make almost every driver play as high as we want. The question is if the sound quality can still keep up.


When I was in Rob (rcohen)'s house, we have a chat on a lot of different subjects. One of them is how high you can play for a subwoofer. My first thought was sealed vs ported subs. A ported sub has the disadvantage of port resonance (which depends on port length). This type of resonance needs to be measured by "close-mic" technique. So I alway recommend not to crossover ported sub too high (80hz or 100hz is still good), but higher than that can invite noise and harmonic distortion to trigger resonance and got "amplified".


F12G can crossover higher, but I don't recommend anything above 120hz either. This is just a general guideline. Some customers can crossover at 150hz. But don't crossover that high unless you absolutely have to. Besides, we have F8 for that type of application.
 
#17,854 ·
We can make almost every driver play as high as we want. The question is if the sound quality can still keep up.


When I was in Rob (rcohen)'s house, we have a chat on a lot of different subjects. One of them is how high you can play for a subwoofer. My first thought was sealed vs ported subs. A ported sub has the disadvantage of port resonance (which depends on port length). This type of resonance needs to be measured by "close-mic" technique. So I alway recommend not to crossover ported sub too high (80hz or 100hz is still good), but higher than that can invite noise and harmonic distortion to trigger resonance and got "amplified".


F12G can crossover higher, but I don't recommend anything above 120hz either. This is just a general guideline. Some customers can crossover at 150hz. But don't crossover that high unless you absolutely have to. Besides, we have F8 for that type of application.
First, thanks for your reply!

So the F15HP will not have sound quality to play up to 120-150 hz, but the F12G will (at least to 120 hz) - is that bottom line? (I am only talking about sealed subs)

Does Rythmik subs come with 110-240 volt amplifiers - or can you order a 220 volt version?

Jacob
 
#17,855 ·
As a result, we get a better and cleaner reproduction of the sound even at lower SPL level. In short, if a sub has lost a lot of details when it plays at normal SPL level, playing the same sub at a lower SPL level will only make the problem worse, not better.

How does servo improve this problem? Our servo can reduce this type of problem by a factor of 3x. Here is the theoretical part of how it works. I will let others comment on the actual experience.

BTW, improving low level linearity is independent of the concept of dynamic EQ. Dynamic EQ does not address the tranceducers-related issue. Therefore these two are orthogonal.

I forgot to mention that front speakers also play an important role. Some customers actually found the next upgrade (or money better spent) is to upgrade the front speakers, instead of adding a second sub.
 
#17,856 · (Edited)
First, thanks for your reply!

So the F15HP will not have sound quality to play up to 120-150 hz, but the F12G will (at least to 120 hz) - is that bottom line? (I am only talking about sealed subs)

Does Rythmik subs come with 110-240 volt amplifiers - or can you order a 220 volt version?

Jacob

That is correct. Rob's setup is slightly different. He has 4 F25 and he upgraded the driver to DS1505. DS1505 has slightly less inductance. I was a bit surprised that he can play that high with those. But to keep recommendation simple to understand, I recommend F12G for higher crossover.


Our amps use traditional toroidal transformer. The cost is higher. But the advantage is high reliability (compared with switching power supplier which uses higher number of components and less forgiving to catastrophic failure). Even if the customer short the output or cause the power amp module to fail, the power supply always work. So the repair is very simple, just replace the power module and it is good to go again. The second advantage is the amp can be easily designed into 120V-240V dual supply and still maintain same max output at both 120V and 240V. So you can assume all of our subwoofer models are like that except the entry level LV12R.
 
#17,858 ·
L12 will use the same amp. The driver is an variation of the one used in LV12R in order to accomodate larger excursion in sealed subs.
We all know that as a result of the dockworkers strike, products are being delayed. Those customers that don’t want to wait a month or two for delivery are making choices to buy products that are currently available and sometimes not their first choice of either company or subwoofer.



Since the L12 may still be a month away, it would really be helpful if you could share more information about the product, especially how it compares to the F12 (for music). What can you tell us about the low level and high level sound quality of the L12 vs the F12 (for music), output from 30-80 hz vs the F12, and what about the size, weight, finish, and amplifier controls.
 
#17,859 ·
Newly purchased and setup of FV15HP-SE Question

Hey all,

After reading through many pages of this and other forums I ended up getting the FV15HP in Piano Black and it looks Great!!

Here is my dilemma...

I have one of the those rooms that is a large rectangle with family room and kitchen. The room size is approx. 15 feet wide, 38 feet deep and 9 feet high (about 5100 cubic feet) with two open doorways... one at the opposite end of room from TV/Stereo Wall where sub is located and one other opening about in the middle of room to a hallway (my seating area is about 10 feet from the TV/Stereo wall which is before the middle hallway opening.

I have the subwoofer plugged in near the wall where the cable is located from previous install (with older smaller sub). I have never had great deep pounding bass and was hoping for it with this sub. I plugged in with one port closed to attempt to get the lowest lows but after speaking with Rythmik they said I should open both ports to get about 3db more spl as my room is too large to get that chest thumping bass.

Running: Denon 3311ci, M&K S150 Right/Center/Left and 3 Speakercraft 8" ceiling speakers for right/center/left surround.

Ran Audessey and following up by using SPL meter (C,slow) and in main seating location had all speakers at about 74db and had sub at -1.0 on bass management but don't remember the SPL.

One port closed sub settings:

Input: Coax from wall to dual RCA connectors going to both (1) and (2) of LFE input.

PEQ: Off
Gain: 0db
Bandwidth: middle
Frequency: middle (40hz)
Delay/phase: 0
Crossover: max
Volume: middle
Lowpass: AVR/12
Rumble: Off/1
Extension: 14hz/Low

Bass was okay but nothing great and no vibration to the wall or chest thump.

After opening both ports:

Rumble was changed to: On/2 (all other settings remained the same as in one port setup and left subwoofer in same position)

Now when I played the Edge of Tomorrow opening seconds that low bass that plays for a moment vibrated the wall (as my pictured made a slight noise) and I felt a little vibration in the chest this time (not huge but definitively better than before).

Any thoughts? I have my subwoofer driver pointed towards me in the seating area (about 6 feet away) which is pointing to the deep part of the room which goes back about 30 feet or I can rotate it to point away from the near wall and point to the wall across the room which is about 12 feet away (mostly windows on that wall). I have read that I should consider trying this subwoofer crawl technique or at least move the sub to different locations and see how it sounds which I will try. I am not sure that simply relocating it will change the SPL or pressure I feel as the room size still remains the same which is large...

I have attached a picture looking from about 30 feet away in the kitchen (with open 3 foot wide doorway to dining room and stove top behind me) looking towards the TV/Stereo and Sub...

Rythmik also said I could add a second FV15HP and go back to 1 port mode if I want to get more SPL and that extra low bass I wanted... Since I am not exactly getting that total chest pounding bass or very large vibrations in room now I would guess that even if I had two maybe I would need to have them both with all ports open to get max output... unless the placement is part of my problem...

As this is my first post with AVS I apologize if I placed this in wrong area (if so please let me know where I should post and I can do it there).

Thanks for any assistance,

Mark
 

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