NEW MFW-15 amps (May 2010) *pics* - Page 90 - AVS Forum
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post #2671 of 2687 Old 11-10-2014, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Elderblaze View Post
How hard would it be to pull the stock plate amp, cut a piece of MDF and throw some external connectors on it and power it with an outboard amp? anyone done this
If you want to save the hassle and get a cleaner look, you can always just order the plates from Sandbagger (Kevin) that are used for the Turbo kit. Alternately if you are feeling adventurous you can unplug all connections from the binding posts on the original amp, and wire directly to the existing posts and just use it as an input plate.

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post #2672 of 2687 Old 11-10-2014, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by madrone View Post
I have an MFW-15 I bought in 2008 that luckily didn't have any issues until now. But now I'm getting no output at all. I don't hear hum, just nothing. The light is still green. Is this a different issue from the hum I keep reading about?
Mine is doing the same thing. 2008 vintage and there's no hum or anything, green light, but no output whatsoever even when I'm doing the "channel test tone" from my receiver.

Any luck on hooking up external amps to these subs?
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post #2673 of 2687 Old 11-10-2014, 12:53 PM
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I am going to do what Mark said. I actually saw a youtube video about it last week. This way I keep the stock amp in the sub so the sub still looks good. My new amp will be in my rack with my receiver and instead of an LFE cable attaching to the sub I will have speaker wire attaching to the binding posts.
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post #2674 of 2687 Old 11-10-2014, 01:17 PM
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Here is the answer I received on the DIY forum. i spent ALOT of time looking this up! Someone else confirmed my finding. The INUKE 1000 DSP amp is $199. It looks like a good cheap fix to get the MFW running again.

Mark Seaton .... any thoughts? Thanks

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Originally Posted by juiceblrc View Post
I know a little bit about subs and I do not want to build one from scratch. But, I have a MFW-15 sub and the amp has died. There is no plate amp that will fit it the original amp hole in the sub box. I want to get my sub working again for as little $$ as possible so I have decided get an external amp (pro amp).

My questions are:
1) Will the inuke 1000 DSP work for me? The stock sub has a 5.5 cubic foot box, it is ported, 15 inch driver (4 ohms). The original amp was 350 watts RMS. Sub is tuned at - 3 db @ 18 hertz. The stock sub could hit 120 decibels.
- is there a better amp you can recommend is this price range?
- Can I get the inuke 1000 NON dsp version instead? (its $50 less)
- what features do i need an amp to have? high pass filter? EQ?
2) I will connect the inuke to my receiver with a RCA to XLR connector. Then connect the inuke to the sub with a speakon adaptor & then bare speaker wire. Is this correct?
3) After I figure out # 1- # 3 I may decide to use REW. Can I use my analog radio shack sound level meter 33-4050 to hook up to my laptop (sound meter has a RCA out). Can I use my YPAO microphone from my Yamaha receiver? Or do I need to buy a digital mike to connect to my laptop?

Any advice you can give me would be great! THANKS!
1) Inuke1000DSP is a perfect match. The Inuke's will do the their full power bridged @ 4 ohms, in one channel.
Exactly what you said. I would keep the DSP version as that allows you to EQ your sub, and add a highpass filter, because your subwoofer is ported,
2) Correct, wire the speakon to the back of the amp, but don't forget to wire the AMP's speakon connector as +1 +2 if you plan on using the Inuke bridged. (+1 -1 normally)
3) You should be able to do exactly what you listed, but I have never tried it with my MCACC mic. Don't expect very much accuracy around 20hz with those microphones though.
If you don't want to do that, a calibrated Umik or Dayton umm-6 mic from cross-spectrum.com works.
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post #2675 of 2687 Old 11-19-2014, 03:35 PM
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Guys-

Can someone guide me to a repair procedure for the V1? I have murrels instructions for the V2. I am nearly certain that mine is a V1 as I got it right after the release. The hum has gotten louder and finally turned into a loud buzz.

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post #2676 of 2687 Old 11-19-2014, 04:14 PM
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replace the same caps, if it works, you got it, if not..... well it doesnt work for all

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post #2677 of 2687 Old 11-19-2014, 06:11 PM
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Thanks! If it doesn't work, Ill install a new BASH amp or a Dayton SA1000 external.

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post #2678 of 2687 Old 11-19-2014, 09:05 PM
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There is nothing that is a drop in that I have ever seen. SA1000 is way more power than what you need for the stock driver, be careful..... there is always the turbo

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Thanks! If it doesn't work, Ill install a new BASH amp or a Dayton SA1000 external.

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post #2679 of 2687 Old 11-24-2014, 10:08 AM
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I have a V3.01 amplifier for sale in the classifieds in case anyone is interested:

AV123 MFW-15 stock Amplifier V3.01

Its the new updated V3 which originally shipped with a toroidal transformer and later with the same EI transformer found in the V2s. It works perfect and stays cool to the touch regardless of how hard it is pushed.
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post #2680 of 2687 Old 11-24-2014, 11:19 PM
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Anyone know an amp repair place where I can take my V3 amp and get it fixed in the So. Cal. (Lake Elsinore) area ?
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post #2681 of 2687 Old 12-08-2014, 05:25 PM
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Dayton SP500 ordered. I will make a block off plate for the old amp and put the new one in an external box, fastened to the back. I'll router out a hole one of these days. Cheap ass ********.

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post #2682 of 2687 Old 12-09-2014, 12:11 AM
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I ordered an INUKE 3000 DSP amp. I chose it over a plate amp since it has a built in EQ in it so I can adjust to it get a flat frequency response in my room. It's more work to setup it up properly but if I do it correctly it should sound better. We will see ....
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post #2683 of 2687 Old 12-09-2014, 05:29 AM
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Originally Posted by hammondc View Post
Dayton SP500 ordered. I will make a block off plate for the old amp and put the new one in an external box, fastened to the back. I'll router out a hole one of these days. Cheap ass ********.
Just a heads up in case you were not aware. The back panel aside from the triangular pockets on top and bottom that hold the amp and controller board are part of the port. If you route a hole big enough for the SP500 in the back you will get into the port.

You will also need some boost down low on the SP500 if it doesn't have any to get close to same native FR as the stock amp. I found 3-6db low shelf to work best, the target frequency depends on size of room.
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post #2684 of 2687 Old 12-09-2014, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post
Just a heads up in case you were not aware. The back panel aside from the triangular pockets on top and bottom that hold the amp and controller board are part of the port. If you route a hole big enough for the SP500 in the back you will get into the port.

You will also need some boost down low on the SP500 if it doesn't have any to get close to same native FR as the stock amp. I found 3-6db low shelf to work best, the target frequency depends on size of room.
Helluva heads up!! I guess the port goes up and over and comes out on the bottom. Oh well. I'll just fasten it to the back. I'll have to dig in the amp setting to see about boosting the low end. I usually just let MCACC do its thing. The room is a bonus room, roughly 10X20. This will work until I build a dedicated theater. That will be a full custom build.

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post #2685 of 2687 Old 12-10-2014, 10:42 AM
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NicksHitachi,

Any advice for me? I ordered my amp and I should get it soon. How should I setup my INUKE 3000 DSP for use with a the stock driver? I think the will set the high pass filter at 20 HZ, limit the power to about 400 watts, boost 3 or 6 DB at 20 HZ also? Anything else? I probably just should have bought your V3 amp!

If this doesn't work right I may just build a box or buy a pre-made flat pack box. Throw in a SI 18 driver & use the INUKE with it.
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post #2686 of 2687 Old 12-10-2014, 11:15 AM
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^It will work fine with the stock driver.

I would use a steep butterworth highpass at 19-20Hz.

Low shelf 3-6db between 30-50 on down depending on how it measures in-room. I think the berry can do a low shelf, if not I would guess the center frequency for a PEQ boost to raise the low end would be around 30-35hz +3-6db with a wide Q.

I recommend REW and a USB mic, there is no cookie cutter recipe for good in-room response. However the aforementioned would get you close to the stock amp. The biggest advantage you have is custom DSP to your room, you should take advantage of it.
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post #2687 of 2687 Unread Today, 09:37 PM
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Hey All!

I have 2 MFW-15 that finally gave in to the dreaded hum couple weeks apart. The hum is constant in the on position even with no input signal. I honestly don't know which version amp I have but I suspect it is a V1. Are my subs a candidate for the caps mod? Anyone in SoCal know how to do this mod?

Thanks
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