Infinity HPS-1000 subwoofer died - $400 to fix...fix or replace? Replace with what? - Page 2 - AVS Forum
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post #31 of 45 Old 04-26-2011, 08:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Great! I'll be happy to hear how it turns out. I'll suggest that you just remove the back connections plate first. It's real easy to do and you can plan better from there. The connections plate removal is big enough to put your hand in and disconnect everything so you can make the new connections. If I were going to do what I think you are going to do I'd just cut a hole out in the back of the sub big enough to mount the plate amp on the back of the sub and leave the grey infinity amp on the front of the sub for cosmetics.

"Without subs it's just background music - with subs it's the main event!"
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post #32 of 45 Old 04-27-2011, 11:08 AM
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Yeah, I'm leaning towards mounting it properly...

FWIW? after a little poking, prodding & prying, I finally found some screws on the bottom baffle. I then removed the feet and removed the 12 screws holding the baffle/driver in...It was a bit stubborn about coming out, so I screwed two of the feet screws back into a couple of the baffle holes, then used a pair of pliers to gently tug...Voila, out she came.

I'm waiting to see the size of the actual hole that I need to cut before I do any other 'alterations' but I'm gonna gut it of all the old wiring, plates, amps, etc. fill the old holes, then just put the empty front control/amp cover back on, to hide the ugliness that will lie beneath...

Now, if I can just locate my trusty Rat-Shack meter...?

cheers
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post #33 of 45 Old 01-08-2012, 04:11 PM
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I replaced mine with a Dayton Audio SA240-B 240W plate amp ($119.00). It has more than enough power to drive it. It only required a little cutting to open up the original hole on the back.

To disassemble the subwoofer, remove the screws on the bottom including the the two hidden under the feet. The foot removes by pulling off the rubber pad and removing the screw in the middle.

I just left the front facia on the speaker, and cut the wires on the inside. The speaker has two spring loaded terminals, and is easy to connect to the amplifier. I just cut the lugs off of the wire and inserted it into the the existing terminals on the speaker.

There was a problem with hum. It was very annoying. To fix it, just remove the ground lug from the power cord. Change it from a 3 prong cord to a 2 prong cord.

Very good low bass, just like the original.
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post #34 of 45 Old 01-09-2012, 09:54 AM
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for those of you not electronically inclined.
it may be just a cold solder joint.

buy a good soldering iron and hit every solder joint.
browse cold solder joint on google/yahoo for ideas of repair.
what happens is over time, solder that holds a wire to a circuit board connection
gets corroded and the joint separates.....with time. solder is not conductive.
you need a good mechanical connection from the circuit board trace to the wire, resistor, capacitor,
coil or what ever. solder just holds it in place.
might just save you bucks,
burnt items this will not help.....it's too late you already let the smoke out of the box......

my HT
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post #35 of 45 Old 05-03-2012, 09:10 PM - Thread Starter
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That repair shop FINALLY fixed my Infinity HPS-1000 this week. It's been 1.5 years. This is the last time I'm going to try to have an amp repaired. The previous two times were failures, and this time took very nearly 1.5 years.

Hopefully it STAYS fixed now. I'll pick it up maybe tomorrow and soon put some omnimic frequency response graphs up for the community.

"Without subs it's just background music - with subs it's the main event!"
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post #36 of 45 Old 05-09-2012, 09:42 PM - Thread Starter
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picked it up from the shop tonight. Ended up being a 127ohm resister that was the problem. The shop owner said no additional charge on top of the $380 or so I initially paid and apologized for the nearly 1.5 year repair time. I asked him if I can expect the repair to last - he said it better - we darn near replaced every single component on the amp board trying to figure out the problem.

I really like this sub. I have a soft spot for it. I'll throw some measurements up in the next week or so in a new thread. I may even provide it to some of my local friends to let them give it a demo and seek their opinions. It isn't nearly as powerful as the Captivators --- but then what really is? It still sounds fantastic though and still is quite generous on output. Hearing just how much better this Infinity is instantly over the Pioneer SW-8 sub I just reviewed for the last couple hours makes me laugh.

I need to quit reviewing these uber crappy subs --- How do I get a gig only listening to and reviewing top shelf subs?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1401651

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post #37 of 45 Old 05-12-2012, 12:42 AM
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I have a couple pairs of Infinity powered towers, Overture 3s and Interlude IL-60s. Only once has an amp failed and that was in one of the 3s. But I did have a sub amp fail (lightning) on my DefTech PF1500. It was replaced by a Technics integrated that was laying around collecting dust and now sounds really good w/ a Behringer 1124P in the loop. Here's the major issue as I see it in the Infinity HPS-1000: large driver/small cabinet = lots of EQ in the amp. Unless you can compensate for that built-in custom tailored bass boost via an outboard equalizer like the BFD then your sub will never produce the prodigious bass to which you're accustomed. Just adding a plate amp won't solve your problem. An outboard equalizer plus that amp will.

HT: Onkyo TX-SR702,Infinity IL60s/IL36c,DefTech PF1500sub,PanasonicPT-AX100,Draper92"screen,SonyBDP-S570,Dish622
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post #38 of 45 Old 05-12-2012, 01:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post

That repair shop FINALLY fixed my Infinity HPS-1000 this week. It's been 1.5 years. This is the last time I'm going to try to have an amp repaired. The previous two times were failures, and this time took very nearly 1.5 years.

Hopefully it STAYS fixed now. I'll pick it up maybe tomorrow and soon put some omnimic frequency response graphs up for the community.

Wow! That's patience. I don't blame you for the sentimental attachment, it's a good sub. I wish I still had mine rather than this POS eD that's constantly under repair.

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post #39 of 45 Old 05-12-2012, 04:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Which ed do you have?

"Without subs it's just background music - with subs it's the main event!"
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post #40 of 45 Old 04-12-2013, 10:55 AM
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Hey, I have a HPS-1000 subwoofer like you and I live over here in Lawrence KS. Like yours mine kept taking long and longer to power up.....and now it won't power up at all. Call me at 913-515-7854 if you have any info on what parts you or the shop replaced to get it up and going again. Thanks!
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post #41 of 45 Old 04-13-2013, 10:10 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjeffery50 View Post

Hey, I have a HPS-1000 subwoofer like you and I live over here in Lawrence KS. Like yours mine kept taking long and longer to power up.....and now it won't power up at all. Call me at xxx-xxx-xxxx if you have any info on what parts you or the shop replaced to get it up and going again. Thanks!

sjeffery50,

I used electronics center off of metcalf because they were the only Infinity Authorized repair center in town at the time I took mine in. Dando Electronics in Waldo area was previously infinity authorized, but apparently they lost their authorization. I had bad luck with both repair places and wouldn't use either (without thinking twice) again. Dando fixed my Infinity HPS-1000 for $90 or so about 8 years ago. It worked for about 93 days on a 90 day warranty. They wouldn't fix the item again at their expense and wanted to charge me again and I was living cheap at the time and couldn't afford a second fix, nor was I confident the second fix would take any better than the first. Then I sat on a broken Infinity HPS-1000 sub for years, and tried to get if fixed again at Electronics Center as detailed in this thread. That process took about 1.5 years. The first fix failed, but at least they took it back and fixed it again on their dime. This time it's still working, but the fi was close to $400 and took 1.5 years, and a LOT of reminder calls from me to see what the status was. I think if I hadn't kept calling they probably would just never have finished it, and maybe not even given it back to me. I've no other experiences with their business, but this first service job wasn't an example outstanding support. They did fix it the second time 100% on their dime to their credit. It just took a LONG time. It is still working now - several months later. A friend has it on a bit of a perma borrow I guess right now and really likes it.

Knowing what I know now I would buy an Inuke 1000 instead, and wire up an amp external. SOOOOOOOOOOOO much easier and cheaper and going to do the same thing. If you wanted to get fancy and actually use subwoofer EQ tools to tailor the HPS-1000 to your room you could get a INuke DSP 1000 instead for an extra $100. But for the average home theater hobbiest the $200 amp would work just fine.

https://www.google.com/shopping/product/2599577564325622305?q=inuke%201000&bav=on.2,or.r_cp.r_qf.&bvm=bv.45175338,d.b2I&biw=1366&bih=643&sa=X&ei=PZFpUcP8KKW02AX0vIHYCw&ved=0CFgQ8wIwAA

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post #42 of 45 Old 06-10-2014, 12:33 PM
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Any updates or further thoughts on this situation?

I am asking because I have the same sub, been using it for years, and really like it. I believe I also bought it from Ubid. My sub has had intermittent power issues, meaning that sometimes when I press the power button, the green light goes on, while at other times it does not go on. In the past, it always powered up after a while, and I kept I on all the time to avoid this issue.

I moved house a couple of weeks ago and hired a company to set up my home theatre. My sub has not powered up even after plugging and unplugging it a bunch of times, and pushing the power button a bunch of times. I would like to get it repaired assuming it does not eventually power up on its own.

A couple of questions:

1. Any chance that putting signal through it will cause the green light to go on? I kind if thought the light signifies only that it is powered up, and a signal would have nothing to do with it but I hope I am wrong.

2. How would I go about getting it repaired? I would prefer onsite service - this thing weighs a ton and it is upstairs, up a big staircase. The movers placed it where I wanted it, but I do not think I could pick it up, let alone carry it


Any opinions or random thoughts will be greatly appreciated.
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post #43 of 45 Old 06-10-2014, 12:54 PM
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Ebay has refurbed amps for 199.00
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post #44 of 45 Old 06-10-2014, 01:03 PM
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Did a quick search and did not find this it, but I did find this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/WE-REPAIR-INFINITY-HPS1000-AMP-JUST-SEND-US-YOUR-NON-WORKING-AMP-WE-REPAIR-IT-/281349784846?pt=Speakers_Subwoofers&hash=item4181c1050e

This looks like what I need, but I would not no idea as to how to remove the amp.
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post #45 of 45 Old 06-10-2014, 01:06 PM - Thread Starter
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I'll sell you my working amp off my remaining HPS-1000 for $150 shipped.

I'm just parting it out because it is cosmetically misfit.

"Without subs it's just background music - with subs it's the main event!"
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