List of budget subwoofers ($300 and less) - Page 73 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2161 of 2526 Old 07-29-2016, 05:54 AM
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Originally Posted by JimWilson View Post
Not really. About the only other ones in your price range are the SUB-1200 and the Jamo J-12.
The PS38 is on sale so that's why I asked. Really liking the SUB-1200 looks and prize wise though do you think 120W would be enough, my old is 163w. Jamo is odd color and prize a bitter higher as well, and only 3 reviews on there. Thanks a bunch!

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post #2162 of 2526 Old 07-29-2016, 06:07 AM
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Originally Posted by b0rnarian View Post
The PS38 is on sale so that's why I asked. Really liking the SUB-1200 looks and prize wise though do you think 120W would be enough, my old is 163w. Jamo is odd color and prize a bitter higher as well, and only 3 reviews on there. Thanks a bunch!
last page of this thread has a member review of the jamo
Budget subwoofers discussions, opinions and questions thread
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post #2163 of 2526 Old 07-29-2016, 06:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by b0rnarian View Post
The PS38 is on sale so that's why I asked. Really liking the SUB-1200 looks and prize wise though do you think 120W would be enough, my old is 163w. Jamo is odd color and prize a bitter higher as well, and only 3 reviews on there. Thanks a bunch!
A good price doesn't always equate to a good deal. If your only criteria is cost then the PS38 might suffice, but if things like performance and capabilities are factored in it will fall well short of the mark.

Amp wattage has little bearing on performance if considered in isolation; they are so many other factors involved that you can't really make an assessment from one spec. That's like judging a cars 0-60 performance by horsepower alone. Without knowing how much the vehicle weighs, what type of transmission is being used, rear end gear, final drive ratio and the like there's no way to accurately discern overall performance.
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post #2164 of 2526 Old 07-31-2016, 01:39 PM
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@Nate Miller , this is a good place to get info for your question.
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post #2165 of 2526 Old 08-08-2016, 01:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b0rnarian View Post
The PS38 is on sale so that's why I asked. Really liking the SUB-1200 looks and prize wise though do you think 120W would be enough, my old is 163w. Jamo is odd color and prize a bitter higher as well, and only 3 reviews on there. Thanks a bunch!

Room specs?

Output levels?

Music? Movies? Gregorian chanting?

Did the amp of the "old" sub clip the output at high levels?

If the Jamo J-12-DA weren't such an "odd color", would it sound any better?

Jamo J-12-WHT (white finish) offer:

https://www.neweggbusiness.com/produ...=9b-86-427-004

Jamo J-12-BLK (black finish) offer:

https://www.amazon.com/Jamo-J-12-BLK.../dp/B00O7KJWF8

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post #2166 of 2526 Old 08-08-2016, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Dom Di Stroia View Post
Room specs?

Output levels?

Music? Movies? Gregorian chanting?

Did the amp of the "old" sub clip the output at high levels?

If the Jamo J-12-DA weren't such an "odd color", would it sound any better?

Jamo J-12-WHT (white finish) offer:

https://www.neweggbusiness.com/produ...=9b-86-427-004

Jamo J-12-BLK (black finish) offer:

https://www.amazon.com/Jamo-J-12-BLK.../dp/B00O7KJWF8
I may or may not need to replace my Onkyo Sub just yet. I re-ran auddessey the other day and the test and sound seemed fine on it but I just can't seem to get the settings on it right. I read the entire Auddessey calibration article somewhere on the forum with questions/answers etc. and still can't figure out what Hz to use on em.

After running the auddessey calibration, the Hz came out diff. and second time yet another set of Hz - I think im just dumb when it comes to audio and the meaning of it all. I did figure out the Multiplex setting should not be Main+sub, it should be just sub so that the main speakers arent being used for sub sounds. However, rest of the speakers are the same size so not sure why the reciever would put some of them on 80Hz and others on 150Hz (surround ones). Can somebody help me out?

PS: my room is 11ft wide and 25 long and sit about less than half way on the front side to the tv. I used the room/tv 95% for movies. Thank you!

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post #2167 of 2526 Old 08-08-2016, 09:07 AM - Thread Starter
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After running the auddessey calibration, the Hz came out diff. and second time yet another set of Hz
What does that mean, "Hz came out diff"? Are you talking about the crossover point?

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post #2168 of 2526 Old 08-08-2016, 09:18 AM
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What does that mean, "Hz came out diff"? Are you talking about the crossover point?
Yes, IE: 120Hz vs 80Hz. please note that I am a complete newbie to Audio section. Thanks for your help.

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post #2169 of 2526 Old 08-08-2016, 04:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by b0rnarian View Post
However, rest of the speakers are the same size so not sure why the reciever would put some of them on 80Hz and others on 150Hz (surround ones). Can somebody help me out?
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Yes, IE: 120Hz vs 80Hz. please note that I am a complete newbie to Audio section. Thanks for your help.
Are you certain the speakers are all identical? It's very uncommon for the center, left/right and surrounds to be completely the same.

Even if they are the exact same thing, the difference in crossover points between speakers may potentially be due to their respective distance from the microphone when the measurement was taken. Identical speakers that are closer will tend to have a lower crossover point than those further away, due simply to the fact that those located a greater distance from the microphone have to provide more output in order to achieve the same sound pressure level. That, in turn, diminished their ability (headroom) because they're working harder to achieve the same volume level. Auto-EQ systems tend to compensate by increasing the crossover point, which will lower the stress put on a speaker by relieving it from playing frequencies that could cause distortion at higher output. It's a balancing acts of sorts.
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post #2170 of 2526 Old 08-08-2016, 05:23 PM
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And not just distance but location within the room. Middle of the room vs tight in a corner can affect xover. As well as furniture, drapes, glass, etc.
80 and 150 is pretty drastic for identical speakers though.
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post #2171 of 2526 Old 08-08-2016, 06:06 PM
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How about a pic of your setup and the way the mic is setup?
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post #2172 of 2526 Old 08-09-2016, 05:57 AM
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It's this system - http://www.crutchfield.com/S-UuSHBGC...-HT-S6300.html
At least they all look the same, and no other way to differentiate between them. PS: the front speakers are 80Hz, and the surround back ones came out to be 120Hz (both are the furthest from the seat). The closest surround speakers came to be 150Hz and thought that was weirdly a big difference between the speakers.
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post #2173 of 2526 Old 08-09-2016, 08:05 AM
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I meant a pic of your home setup. Just change them all to 80hz. Adjust the bass with a jazz CD.
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post #2174 of 2526 Old 08-09-2016, 09:22 AM
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It's this system - http://www.crutchfield.com/S-UuSHBGC...-HT-S6300.html
At least they all look the same, and no other way to differentiate between them. PS: the front speakers are 80Hz, and the surround back ones came out to be 120Hz (both are the furthest from the seat). The closest surround speakers came to be 150Hz and thought that was weirdly a big difference between the speakers.

Despite appearances, the 7 satellites are far from "identical".

The front 3 (LCR) are 2-way speakers, and the rear 4 feature "full-range" drivers.

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post #2175 of 2526 Old 08-09-2016, 09:32 AM
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Despite appearances, the 7 satellites are far from "identical".

The front 3 (LCR) are 2-way speakers, and the rear 4 feature "full-range" drivers.
Thanks, any way to tell the difference since they are all the same size? I'll check the backside of them when I get home and see if it mentions that.

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post #2176 of 2526 Old 08-09-2016, 11:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks, any way to tell the difference since they are all the same size? I'll check the backside of them when I get home and see if it mentions that.
Dom is correct, they aren't the same. The website says this...

  • dual-woofer center speaker and two dual-woofer front speakers
  • four surround speakers with full-range drivers

What I didn't see is mention of how large those 'woofers' are, so they could be 2" or they could be 4". Given this was a full 7.1 system with AVR, for an MSRP of $650 (with an actual selling price probably closer to $500), my guess is they're 3" drivers. If so, I'm surprised any of them come back with an 80Hz crossover. The 120 and 150 you're seeing is far more plausible, and given the configuration I would definitely expect the surrounds to have a higher setting.

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post #2177 of 2526 Old 08-09-2016, 11:14 AM
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Dom is correct, they aren't the same. The website says this...

  • dual-woofer center speaker and two dual-woofer front speakers
  • four surround speakers with full-range drivers

What I didn't see is mention of how large those 'woofers' are, so they could be 2" or they could be 4". Given this was a full 7.1 system with AVR, for an MSRP of $650 (with an actual selling price probably closer to $50), my guess is they're 3" drivers. If so, I'm surprised any of them come back with an 80Hz crossover. The 120 and 150 you're seeing is far more plausible, and given the configuration I would definitely expect the surrounds to have a higher setting.
From the owner's manual -
Crossover Adjustment
(40/50/60/70/80/90/100/120/150/200 Hz)
I would think these apply to all Speakers...

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post #2178 of 2526 Old 08-09-2016, 11:19 AM - Thread Starter
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From the owner's manual -
Crossover Adjustment
(40/50/60/70/80/90/100/120/150/200 Hz)
I would think these apply to all Speakers...
That's a listing of what the receiver can do, not what your particular speakers are capable of.

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post #2179 of 2526 Old 08-09-2016, 11:31 AM
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Talking

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That's a listing of what the receiver can do, not what your particular speakers are capable of.
My bad. Does this help?
The Surround ones are listed as Full-Range Speakers and the Front ones are as follows:

• 4" (10 cm) Cone woofer
• 1" (2.5 cm) Balanced dome tweeter
• Max. input power: 130 W
• 6-ohm impedance

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post #2180 of 2526 Old 08-09-2016, 12:15 PM
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My bad. Does this help?
The Surround ones are listed as Full-Range Speakers and the Front ones are as follows:

• 4" (10 cm) Cone woofer
• 1" (2.5 cm) Balanced dome tweeter
• Max. input power: 130 W
• 6-ohm impedance

The rear 4 satellites feature cone drivers that are 8 cm (3-1/4") in diameter:

http://www.manualslib.com/manual/115...0.html?page=70 (see section entitled "Suround/Surround Back Speaker..." > "Drivers unit")

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post #2181 of 2526 Old 08-09-2016, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Dom Di Stroia View Post
The rear 4 satellites feature cone drivers that are 8 cm (3-1/4") in diameter:

http://www.manualslib.com/manual/115...0.html?page=70 (see section entitled "Suround/Surround Back Speaker... > Drivers unit")
Should I then set these speakers to Full Band or maybe around 100Hz? OR just stick with the crossover settings that the Receiver dialed-in after Auddessey calibration?

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Last edited by b0rnarian; 08-09-2016 at 12:46 PM. Reason: additional questioning.
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Should I then set these speakers to Full Band or maybe around 100Hz? OR just stick with the crossover settings that the Receiver dialed-in after Auddessey calibration?
Experiment and use what sounds best. You cant hurt anything.
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post #2183 of 2526 Old 08-09-2016, 03:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Should I then set these speakers to Full Band or maybe around 100Hz? OR just stick with the crossover settings that the Receiver dialed-in after Auddessey calibration?
Anything using a single 3" driver shouldn't really have a crossover below 120Hz, unless you listen at very low volumes. Physics won't let it play much below that point, at least not with any appreciable output (volume). That's probably why Audyseey set them for 150Hz. You can probably get away with 100Hz on the fronts.
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post #2184 of 2526 Old 08-09-2016, 03:37 PM
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Anything using a single 3" driver shouldn't really have a crossover below 120Hz, unless you listen at very low volumes. Physics won't let it play much below that point, at least not with any appreciable output (volume). That's probably why Audyseey set them for 150Hz. You can probably get away with 100Hz on the fronts.
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Should I then set these speakers to Full Band...

Only if you want to measure the distortion levels.
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post #2186 of 2526 Old 08-31-2016, 11:54 AM
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Hey guys, been combing through this thread trying to figure out what I wanted. Thought I would ask for advice based on your experience. So far I think the ultra cheap Dayton Audio sub 8 looked good (for the price especially!)

Room Size: Living room (future), office (right now).

I'm in between living arrangements but plan on moving to a house with a proper living room in 2-3 months. I'd like it to be future proof.

Listening preferences: 90% music / 10% movies and videogames

I don't watch much tv or anything with my setup but will entertain guests every now and then.

Setup: 2.0 right now, only want to jump to 2.1.

I plan to eventually buy a new setup, but I'm undecided if I will move this setup to another room (with the sub) or go the future proof route and integrate the sub into a new setup. My current bookshelf speakers are active monitors and very anemic when it comes to bass. They will definitely be the first to go when I do a full upgrade next year.
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post #2187 of 2526 Old 08-31-2016, 01:40 PM
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Ray, what is your living room size the sub will be operating in within the next 2-3 months? What is your max budget to spend on a sub?
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post #2188 of 2526 Old 08-31-2016, 02:54 PM - Thread Starter
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So far I think the ultra cheap Dayton Audio sub 8 looked good (for the price especially!)

I'm in between living arrangements but plan on moving to a house with a proper living room in 2-3 months. I'd like it to be future proof.
The least expensive subwoofer available with the smallest driver you can find isn't a recipe to make your purchase future proof. In reality all it will do is ensure you buy another subwoofer in the (immediate) future.
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post #2189 of 2526 Old 08-31-2016, 03:15 PM
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Ray, what is your living room size the sub will be operating in within the next 2-3 months? What is your max budget to spend on a sub?
Office is 11.5 x 14

I don't want to spend more than 250 dollars.

I am also willing to trade the "future proof" comment for "this will do for now" based on the price.

and to the other guy, yep, that dayton 8 was wishful thinking.

How are these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008NCD2PC...subtag=WC78310

https://www.amazon.com/BIC-America-H...=bic+subwoofer

Also, one last thing, I'm not a basshead. I don't need skull shaking bass. I like bass, lots of it, but at a moderate volume and with plenty of texture.
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post #2190 of 2526 Old 08-31-2016, 03:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray View Post
Office is 11.5 x 14

I don't want to spend more than 250 dollars.

I am also willing to trade the "future proof" comment for "this will do for now" based on the price.

and to the other guy, yep, that dayton 8 was wishful thinking.

How are these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008NCD2PC...subtag=WC78310

https://www.amazon.com/BIC-America-H...=bic+subwoofer

Also, one last thing, I'm not a basshead. I don't need skull shaking bass. I like bass, lots of it, but at a moderate volume and with plenty of texture.
Small room, so that's not an issue. For under $250 there are a few good budget subs to pick from. For around $200 the Bic F-12, Polk PSW505 and Dayton sub-1500 are all solid options. Newegg.com still has the Jamo J-12 in dark apple finish for $150. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-002-_-Product
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