Official Power Sound Audio Subwoofer Thread - Page 475 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #14221 of 18592 Old 10-14-2014, 04:25 AM
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Originally Posted by lefthandluke View Post
nice...

you know tho i actually like it better the LOUDER i crank the volume...the subs come to life yet the buttkicker level remains ideal!

you know you love it when those xs-30's shine brother...!
you are coreect on that one! my xs30's rumble thte whole house (and trhey are in the basement) I cant wait until I properly soundproof the room!

but for now the buttkicker...will have to do..

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post #14222 of 18592 Old 10-14-2014, 05:45 AM
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Finding position "1A" for 2nd subwoofer

Let's assume one has done the subcrawl and identified the best room position for a subwoofer. How do you then find the 2nd best position for a 2nd sub? Is it all trial and error? I guess starting with some "educated" guesses based on where the first sub is placed?

And what if position 1A just isn't doable? Is this where the mini-dsp would come in?

My new XS15se is located in the rear right corner of my room. I'm thinking strongly about adding a 2nd, but placement options are limited due to current room usage constraints (read K-I-D-S and their S-T-U-F-F). Front left is out, front right MIGHT be doable, but requiring some finessing (WAF) and would be directly in the kid-zone. Back left is kind of close to the stairwell and might cause some issues.

Yesterday, as I was looking around my room, I got to thinking that on the left of MLP, there is a coffee table between me and the wife's chair. I measured and I believe that an XS15se would fit under. The power outlet and a pre-wired subwoofer drop are directly behind, about 4ft away (could cover the cords with something).

I imagine such a nearfield placement would give me quite a kick, but not sure it is exactly position 1A in respect of the existing sub.

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post #14223 of 18592 Old 10-14-2014, 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by raynist View Post
Interesting. How much weight were you able to reduce? Any performance difference?

We'll have the website updated in 10-14 days. First we need to update all the speaker pages with more pictures, graphs, etc.

I'm not 100% sure on the final weight. I know it went from absolutely needing two people to move it outside for measurements to Jim waving me off and saying "this is a piece of cake now!".

I'll try to figure out final weight today. (edit----I'd guess about 155(ish) without the grills. Still a heavyweight to be sure but 2 average guys can move it around fairly easy now).

Tom V.
Power Sound Audio
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Last edited by Tom Vodhanel; 10-14-2014 at 07:03 AM.
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post #14224 of 18592 Old 10-14-2014, 06:54 AM
 
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Originally Posted by Tom Vodhanel View Post
We'll have the website updated in 10-14 days. First we need to update all the speaker pages with more pictures, graphs, etc.

I'm not 100% sure on the final weight. I know it went from absolutely needing two people to move it outside for measurements to Jim waving me off and saying "this is a piece of cake now!".

I'll try to figure out final weight today.

Tom V.
Power Sound Audio
Wow! That is a big difference!
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post #14225 of 18592 Old 10-14-2014, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by raynist View Post
Wow! That is a big difference!
Indeed! 230 lbs was a behemoth. I made a 94" x 30" x 23" media console out of 3/4" oak and it didn't weigh much more than that.

I hate picking up my XV15se subs to clean and they only weigh about a third of that.

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post #14226 of 18592 Old 10-14-2014, 08:09 AM
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@Tom Vodhanel you should update all the picture of your sub. They are all old now, old driver in a SE version.
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post #14227 of 18592 Old 10-14-2014, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by jer181 View Post
Hey guys,

I'm just re-calibrated my system and am messing around with REW for the first time. Does anyone know how to get the scale for db's in 5db increments?

I believe there was a good walk through on REW on here, but I can't seem to find it.

Thanks!
Adjust the limits to these settings:



Here is the REW Guide:

Simplified REW Setup and Use (USB Mic & HDMI Connection) Including Measurement Techniques and How To Interpret Graphs
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--------------------------------------------------
Getting Started with REW
Audyssey 101
Audyssey FAQ
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post #14228 of 18592 Old 10-14-2014, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by AC2011 View Post
Let's assume one has done the subcrawl and identified the best room position for a subwoofer. How do you then find the 2nd best position for a 2nd sub? Is it all trial and error? I guess starting with some "educated" guesses based on where the first sub is placed?

And what if position 1A just isn't doable? Is this where the mini-dsp would come in?

My new XS15se is located in the rear right corner of my room. I'm thinking strongly about adding a 2nd, but placement options are limited due to current room usage constraints (read K-I-D-S and their S-T-U-F-F). Front left is out, front right MIGHT be doable, but requiring some finessing (WAF) and would be directly in the kid-zone. Back left is kind of close to the stairwell and might cause some issues.

Yesterday, as I was looking around my room, I got to thinking that on the left of MLP, there is a coffee table between me and the wife's chair. I measured and I believe that an XS15se would fit under. The power outlet and a pre-wired subwoofer drop are directly behind, about 4ft away (could cover the cords with something).

I imagine such a nearfield placement would give me quite a kick, but not sure it is exactly position 1A in respect of the existing sub.
Below is my standard dual sub setup routine with Audyssey (you don't say if you have it or not).

If you only have a few possible placements, I'd try them all to see whichever works the best. Make sure you adjust phase and distance (if you have that ability) and re-run Audyssey (or whatever auto-EQ you have) for each different location.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Set the gain on both subs to the same level - around 12:00-2:00 on the gain knob is a good starting point (just a starting point, gain structure can vary greatly from one manufacturer to another). Set phase to "0" on both subs for now.

1. Connect sub #1 only and place it at the MLP
2. Do the sub crawl to determine the best position for sub #1
3. Place sub #1 in that position
4. Connect both subs and place sub #2 at the MLP (with sub #1 playing as well)
5. Do the sub crawl to determine the best position for sub #2
6. Place sub #2 in that position
7. Playing the AVRs test tone, adjust phase on one of the subs until you get the maximum SPL at the MLP (could be variable or a simple 0/180 switch)
8. Run Audyssey, first mic position only, and "calculate"
9. Look to see where Audyssey has set your sub trim, you want it to be around -5db to -8db ideally
10. Adjust the gain on both subs by the same amount up or down as needed
11. Repeat 8-10 until you get the sub trim around -5db to -8db
12. Run the full Audyssey calibration
13. Set all speakers to "small"
14. Set all crossovers to 80hz (or, if set higher than 80hz by Audyssey, leave them alone)
15. Bump up the sub trim by 3db to 6db to your preference
16. Enjoy!

Hope this helps!

AVR: Denon 4520ci, FL/R: Klipschorn, CC: Klipsch RC-64ii, SUR: Polk LS/FX x4, FH: Klipsch RB-51ii x2, SUB: PSA T-18 x2, DISP: Mitsubishi WD-73740, BluRay: PS3 & BDP-S5100, Remote: URC MX-700
--------------------------------------------------
Getting Started with REW
Audyssey 101
Audyssey FAQ
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post #14229 of 18592 Old 10-14-2014, 08:40 AM
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@Tom Vodhanel you should update all the picture of your sub. They are all old now, old driver in a SE version.
I know, I know. We are so far behind in website updates...it gets a little discouraging. We just added more help though so hopefully we'll make some progress soon.

Tom V.
Power Sound Audio
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post #14230 of 18592 Old 10-14-2014, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Alan P View Post
Below is my standard dual sub setup routine with Audyssey (you don't say if you have it or not).

If you only have a few possible placements, I'd try them all to see whichever works the best. Make sure you adjust phase and distance (if you have that ability) and re-run Audyssey (or whatever auto-EQ you have) for each different location.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Set the gain on both subs to the same level - around 12:00-2:00 on the gain knob is a good starting point (just a starting point, gain structure can vary greatly from one manufacturer to another). Set phase to "0" on both subs for now.

1. Connect sub #1 only and place it at the MLP
2. Do the sub crawl to determine the best position for sub #1
3. Place sub #1 in that position
4. Connect both subs and place sub #2 at the MLP (with sub #1 playing as well)
5. Do the sub crawl to determine the best position for sub #2
6. Place sub #2 in that position
7. Playing the AVRs test tone, adjust phase on one of the subs until you get the maximum SPL at the MLP (could be variable or a simple 0/180 switch)
8. Run Audyssey, first mic position only, and "calculate"
9. Look to see where Audyssey has set your sub trim, you want it to be around -5db to -8db ideally
10. Adjust the gain on both subs by the same amount up or down as needed
11. Repeat 8-10 until you get the sub trim around -5db to -8db
12. Run the full Audyssey calibration
13. Set all speakers to "small"
14. Set all crossovers to 80hz (or, if set higher than 80hz by Audyssey, leave them alone)
15. Bump up the sub trim by 3db to 6db to your preference
16. Enjoy!

Hope this helps!

Thanks, Alan. BTW, I have YPAO (Yamaha receiver). As I noted a few posts above, I've got the gain on the XS15se currently set just above 2, and YPAO set the level at -3.5db.

I didn't really have the opportunity to do a subcrawl - as I was working on a short window of time, and really wanted to get the sub integrated as best I could within that time; but if/when I add another, I'll have to get down to that level of fine detail, for sure.

Boston Acoustics Classic series L/C/R + front presence; Fluance XLBP Bipole surrounds; PSA XS15se
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post #14231 of 18592 Old 10-14-2014, 11:00 AM
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Hi all,

Shipments begin again today. Jim is back and on the attack. We also hired more help which should allow both Jim and myself to focus more on all the "cool ideas" part of the business which has largely been ignored to date.

We should have all back orders caught up within 24 hours....
Looks good. Mine is now out and on track for a Friday delivery!
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post #14232 of 18592 Old 10-14-2014, 11:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Looks good. Mine is now out and on track for a Friday delivery!
Nice, good day to have a PSA product delivered. You'll have the entire weekend to enjoy it....
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post #14233 of 18592 Old 10-14-2014, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by AC2011 View Post
Let's assume one has done the subcrawl and identified the best room position for a subwoofer. How do you then find the 2nd best position for a 2nd sub? Is it all trial and error? I guess starting with some "educated" guesses based on where the first sub is placed?
In my case I made educated guesses -- normally you don't want to stimulate the same room modes with your two subs so they shouldn't be placed in symmetrical positions with respect to the room.

Then it all went to hell and by trial and error I found out that flanking my HT console with the subs worked best, looked best and was the most convenient.

Quote:
Is this where the mini-dsp would come in?
The MiniDSP or any sub EQing option I think is always welcome even with two subs.

The MiniDSP in particular, without even considering EQing, can be useful in itself just to setup the sub volumes if you want to level-match the sub (i.e. so that they produce the same level at the listening position, by opposition to gain-matching, which is setting their gain at the same position). On my dual-sub setup the two subs have the same gain setting on the amp, the same setting on the AVR, but the MiniDSP adjusts the levels (and I don't even have to crouch behind the sub to adjust them).

Quote:
My new XS15se is located in the rear right corner of my room. I'm thinking strongly about adding a 2nd, but placement options are limited due to current room usage constraints (read K-I-D-S and their S-T-U-F-F). Front left is out, front right MIGHT be doable, but requiring some finessing (WAF) and would be directly in the kid-zone.
YMMV but in my dual-sub setup, having the two subs on the same side of the room didn't work at all for me. One was in the front, the other was near field at the time, and the kitchen on the other side of the wall go great bass. Not so for the main listening position, and I could frankly tell it was coming from the left.

Quote:
Yesterday, as I was looking around my room, I got to thinking that on the left of MLP, there is a coffee table between me and the wife's chair. I measured and I believe that an XS15se would fit under. The power outlet and a pre-wired subwoofer drop are directly behind, about 4ft away (could cover the cords with something).
Bingo!

Although I would just replace the coffee table by the sub. My XS15se is under a table -- an older kitchen table used as a drawing table by the kids -- and it barely fits. Also it shakes a lot when the sub decides it's time to move, enough so that I get rattles (table hitting the wall, crayons & stuff on the table rattling, etc.).

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post #14234 of 18592 Old 10-14-2014, 11:45 AM
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In my case I made educated guesses -- normally you don't want to stimulate the same room modes with your two subs so they shouldn't be placed in symmetrical positions with respect to the room.

Then it all went to hell and by trial and error I found out that flanking my HT console with the subs worked best, looked best and was the most convenient.



The MiniDSP or any sub EQing option I think is always welcome even with two subs.

The MiniDSP in particular, without even considering EQing, can be useful in itself just to setup the sub volumes if you want to level-match the sub (i.e. so that they produce the same level at the listening position, by opposition to gain-matching, which is setting their gain at the same position). On my dual-sub setup the two subs have the same gain setting on the amp, the same setting on the AVR, but the MiniDSP adjusts the levels (and I don't even have to crouch behind the sub to adjust them).



YMMV but in my dual-sub setup, having the two subs on the same side of the room didn't work at all for me. One was in the front, the other was near field at the time, and the kitchen on the other side of the wall go great bass. Not so for the main listening position, and I could frankly tell it was coming from the left.



Bingo!

Although I would just replace the coffee table by the sub. My XS15se is under a table -- an older kitchen table used as a drawing table by the kids -- and it barely fits. Also it shakes a lot when the sub decides it's time to move, enough so that I get rattles (table hitting the wall, crayons & stuff on the table rattling, etc.).

Thanks, neutro.

I probably wouldn't remove the coffee table, as it is part of a set (WAF)...there is actually one on each side of MLP, so I could technically "hide" both subs...but I think the effect of that much woofage nearfield might be a bit more than I bargained for.

The table is actually big enough that the sub would fit height-wise and front to back; it would stick out about an inch on either side, but as this is between the 2 chairs it wouldn't be that noticeable. The main issue would be ensuring I could adequately hide the cords, both for WAF and also so the kids don't trip on them.

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Yamaha RX-A3040; Emotiva XPA-3
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post #14235 of 18592 Old 10-14-2014, 12:32 PM
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I probably wouldn't remove the coffee table, as it is part of a set (WAF)...there is actually one on each side of MLP, so I could technically "hide" both subs...
Ha! Bingo again

Quote:
but I think the effect of that much woofage nearfield might be a bit more than I bargained for.
Well, if the subs are properly calibrated, and if the overall combined response is great at those locations, you will just have a nice sounding setup.

If you run the subs a bit hot you probably won't need buttkickers or crowson's though

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post #14236 of 18592 Old 10-14-2014, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Alan P View Post
Below is my standard dual sub setup routine with Audyssey (you don't say if you have it or not).

If you only have a few possible placements, I'd try them all to see whichever works the best. Make sure you adjust phase and distance (if you have that ability) and re-run Audyssey (or whatever auto-EQ you have) for each different location.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Set the gain on both subs to the same level - around 12:00-2:00 on the gain knob is a good starting point (just a starting point, gain structure can vary greatly from one manufacturer to another). Set phase to "0" on both subs for now.

1. Connect sub #1 only and place it at the MLP
2. Do the sub crawl to determine the best position for sub #1
3. Place sub #1 in that position
4. Connect both subs and place sub #2 at the MLP (with sub #1 playing as well)
5. Do the sub crawl to determine the best position for sub #2
6. Place sub #2 in that position
7. Playing the AVRs test tone, adjust phase on one of the subs until you get the maximum SPL at the MLP (could be variable or a simple 0/180 switch)
8. Run Audyssey, first mic position only, and "calculate"
9. Look to see where Audyssey has set your sub trim, you want it to be around -5db to -8db ideally
10. Adjust the gain on both subs by the same amount up or down as needed
11. Repeat 8-10 until you get the sub trim around -5db to -8db
12. Run the full Audyssey calibration
13. Set all speakers to "small"
14. Set all crossovers to 80hz (or, if set higher than 80hz by Audyssey, leave them alone)
15. Bump up the sub trim by 3db to 6db to your preference
16. Enjoy!

Hope this helps!

This is a great post and Iam going to use it when I get my two xv15se that I ordered should be here next monday. One question when I run audyssey it sets my speaker trim levels so low that I crank the MV to 0 and still want more ex: audyssey sets my fronts to -6.5db and when I level matched my speakers to 70db it needed to go to +5db to get the fronts to that level but now my MV sits at 15 or so for movies and it sounds way better as far as imaging and quality goes.

My plan was to gain match the two subs at 75db with the test tone in the middle of the room before your step two, then level match the whole system after step 14 and audyssey can set the distance and time delay ect. Am I way off base in my plan?

Oppo bdp-103, Marantz SR5004, Emotiva xpa-5, PSA MT-110 L/C/R, Paradigm adp-390 Side Surr., Paradigm surround 3 Rear Surr., PSA XV15se x2, Monster Hts-3600 MKII, BenQ w1070, 92" reference 4k screen, Blue Jeans cable, Gik 242 acoustic pannels, DIY super chunk bass traps, certainteed home theater tiles.
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post #14237 of 18592 Old 10-14-2014, 01:43 PM
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This is a great post and Iam going to use it when I get my two xv15se that I ordered should be here next monday. One question when I run audyssey it sets my speaker trim levels so low that I crank the MV to 0 and still want more ex: audyssey sets my fronts to -6.5db
Audyssey sets the speaker trim levels so that you will be at reference at 0MV. If you are finding you still want more at 0MV then you sir have stronger eardrums than I.

Quote:
and when I level matched my speakers to 70db it needed to go to +5db to get the fronts to that level
Not quite sure what you mean by this statement...but yes, if you calibrate your speakers to 70db (why??) you would have to go to +5MV to hit reference.

Quote:
My plan was to gain match the two subs at 75db with the test tone in the middle of the room before your step two, then level match the whole system after step 14 and audyssey can set the distance and time delay ect. Am I way off base in my plan?
When you gain match you will have the SPL meter (or mic) very close to the driver so 75db is going to be too low. It takes some trial and error to get all subs to the right gain so that Audyssey will set the trim in the desired range, but I gain match mine at 90db each (mic about 4" from driver) then when all 4 are combined I get a trim of around -10db in the AVR post-Audyssey.

Not sure what you mean by " then level match the whole system after step 14 and audyssey can set the distance and time delay ect.", if you follow my procedure you will have already run Audyssey (step 12) and the system is already "level matched".

Do not adjust speaker trim levels post-Audyssey unless you have external test tones and a reliable measuring device...it's best to just trust Audyssey on this one. The only exception is the sub trim, feel free to bump it up a few db (or more) to taste.

AVR: Denon 4520ci, FL/R: Klipschorn, CC: Klipsch RC-64ii, SUR: Polk LS/FX x4, FH: Klipsch RB-51ii x2, SUB: PSA T-18 x2, DISP: Mitsubishi WD-73740, BluRay: PS3 & BDP-S5100, Remote: URC MX-700
--------------------------------------------------
Getting Started with REW
Audyssey 101
Audyssey FAQ
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post #14238 of 18592 Old 10-14-2014, 02:08 PM
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Replyed below in bold. Thanks for the reply

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Audyssey sets the speaker trim levels so that you will be at reference at 0MV. If you are finding you still want more at 0MV then you sir have stronger eardrums than I.

Well then something is wrong with audyssey in my receiver then or a mic problem because the way people on this site describe reference level Iam no where close to hitting that at MV at 0 (I have tried running it a few times with the same result) at MV 0 I would describe the audio as comfortable far from loud.



Not quite sure what you mean by this statement...but yes, if you calibrate your speakers to 70db (why??) you would have to go to +5MV to hit reference.

I picked 70db as a number for experiment purposes, I was using an iPhone app and wasn't sure how accurate it was so I played it safe rather than push to 75 or 85. I have a proper spl meter in the mail as we speak. I did this because I was unhappy with the sound that audyssey was providing and was reading about level matching speakers. I got curious and decided to play. after I set all my speakers to 70db on the iPhone and watched my clip I always do, Transformer 3 chapter 20 (only BR I own in 7.1) It was night and day difference It was dynamic, the imaging was a whole new animal, sounds were coming out of the wall not the speakers I heard things in the track that I never have before (falling metal ect) Now MV at 15 is Lound with 10 being crazy.

When you gain match you will have the SPL meter (or mic) very close to the driver so 75db is going to be too low. It takes some trial and error to get all subs to the right gain so that Audyssey will set the trim in the desired range, but I gain match mine at 90db each (mic about 4" from driver) then when all 4 are combined I get a trim of around -10db in the AVR post-Audyssey.

Makes sense

Not sure what you mean by " then level match the whole system after step 14 and audyssey can set the distance and time delay ect.", if you follow my procedure you will have already run Audyssey (step 12) and the system is already "level matched".

If your confused imagine how I feel My system got so much better after setting all speakers to the same output at the MLP that I thought I would do that again after the new subs were calibrated and put in place. I can picture you reading my post with your eyebrow up and your head tilted so Iam going to assume something is a miss and audyssey isn't setting stuff up for me how you would expect

Do not adjust speaker trim levels post-Audyssey unless you have external test tones and a reliable measuring device...it's best to just trust Audyssey on this one. The only exception is the sub trim, feel free to bump it up a few db (or more) to taste.

I have ordered an spl meter and expecting to get more involved in setting up my audio aswell as running REW for the new subs. but at this point I am a complete novice coming from plug and play. I got this with my oppo bdp but still in the plastic. Spears and Munsil HD Benchmark 2nd edition blu-ray disc

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post #14239 of 18592 Old 10-14-2014, 03:52 PM
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Well, if after running Audyssey your output is low, and after setting all speakers to 70db -10MV is "too much", there is either something wrong with your Audyssey mic, your calibration technique or the SPL app.

What flavor of Audyssey are you running? Where are you placing the mic during calibration? What SPL are you getting post-Audyssey with the SPL app?

You will not level match at the MLP post-Audyssey. You would negate all the hard work you did to gain match your subs.

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post #14240 of 18592 Old 10-14-2014, 04:28 PM
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Well, if after running Audyssey your output is low, and after setting all speakers to 70db -10MV is "too much", there is either something wrong with your Audyssey mic, your calibration technique or the SPL app.

What flavor of Audyssey are you running? Where are you placing the mic during calibration? What SPL are you getting post-Audyssey with the SPL app?

You will not level match at the MLP post-Audyssey. You would negate all the hard work you did to gain match your subs.
I believe multiEQ I placed the microphone at ear level in the listening positions on a tripod. I was in the mid 60db range with odyssey on the iPhone. Iam going to go with the audyssey mic being bad because I have never liked what it did in any of the homes I have set it up in and people seem to love it. Maybe I will try again when I upgrade my receiver as I will likely stay with marantz or denon. it's so much better since I level matched and removed what audyssey did even the wife gave me the thumbs up about 15 sec into the clip after the changes.

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I believe multiEQ I placed the microphone at ear level in the listening positions on a tripod. I was in the mid 60db range with odyssey on the iPhone. Iam going to go with the audyssey mic being bad because I have never liked what it did in any of the homes I have set it up in and people seem to love it. Maybe I will try again when I upgrade my receiver as I will likely stay with marantz or denon. it's so much better since I level matched and removed what audyssey did even the wife gave me the thumbs up about 15 sec into the clip after the changes.
The Audyssey mic may be far from the best, but it is heads and shoulders above the Mic on the iPhone' or any other smartphone mic for that matter. A decent SPL meter that is C weighted is a must for accurate measurements.
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post #14242 of 18592 Old 10-14-2014, 06:21 PM
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So it was pointed out to me to look at the picture posted earlier of the Triax finishes. anybody notice the drivers in the back ground? They look a lot like the original power x drivers?




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post #14243 of 18592 Old 10-14-2014, 06:45 PM - Thread Starter
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So it was pointed out to me to look at the picture posted earlier of the Triax finishes. anybody notice the drivers in the back ground? They look a lot like the original power x drivers?




Official Power Sound Audio Subwoofer Thread
Yup they do look like the original Power X drivers by Fi. I assume they where set out for another set of subs near by outside of the picture.

It will be interesting to see how PSA was able to reduce the weight of the Triax....
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post #14244 of 18592 Old 10-14-2014, 08:00 PM
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So it was pointed out to me to look at the picture posted earlier of the Triax finishes. anybody notice the drivers in the back ground? They look a lot like the original power x drivers?

Official Power Sound Audio Subwoofer Thread
Are you sure that those drivers are actually the drivers going in those cabinets? They could just be old Power X drivers kicking around?
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post #14245 of 18592 Old 10-14-2014, 09:03 PM
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Are you sure that those drivers are actually the drivers going in those cabinets? They could just be old Power X drivers kicking around?


That was my thinking...or this is a old pic back before the SE drivers came into play.
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Out of curiosity what drivers are in the Triax? It was my understanding that they didn't change their driver when the new SE driver came out.

Then again, obviously some things have changed dramatically in order for there to be such a significant weight drop that Jim is now carrying the sub around by himself.
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post #14247 of 18592 Old 10-15-2014, 07:23 AM
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So it was pointed out to me to look at the picture posted earlier of the Triax finishes. anybody notice the drivers in the back ground? They look a lot like the original power x drivers?




Official Power Sound Audio Subwoofer Thread

That is an old picture dating back to mid/late 2013 I bet.

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post #14248 of 18592 Old 10-15-2014, 07:23 AM
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No they didn't, but if you look in the back ground, it appears that there are some partially wrapped XS30 cabs behind the drivers. I am assuming the drivers were for those cabs.
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post #14249 of 18592 Old 10-15-2014, 07:35 AM
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Are you sure that those drivers are actually the drivers going in those cabinets? They could just be old Power X drivers kicking around?
I just checked, the picture is dated fri/15th/Nov/2013

Did anyone REALLY believe our solution to reduce the Triax weight would be to use the original power-x drivers?..

We bench check each driver before assembly so those were likely bench checked then placed near the power-x subwoofers to be assembled that day.

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post #14250 of 18592 Old 10-15-2014, 07:43 AM
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Out of curiosity what drivers are in the Triax? It was my understanding that they didn't change their driver when the new SE driver came out.

Then again, obviously some things have changed dramatically in order for there to be such a significant weight drop that Jim is now carrying the sub around by himself.

I didn't mean to imply the weight reduction allows anyone to "carry around" the Triax alone. When we measure outside we use a dolly to take out all the heavy stuff. With the old (235?) Triax....you still needed two people to get it in position on the dolly AND to tip the dolly over a bit for movement. Then you needed two people to lower the dolly back to the ground unless you wanted to "hard drop" the Triax onto the pavement.

The revised unit allows one person to do all of the above with no problem.

We have another round or two of measurements coming up soon, I'll try to get a few pictures of the process if time allows.

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