Official Power Sound Audio Subwoofer Thread - Page 509 - AVS Forum
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post #15241 of 15243 Unread Yesterday, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by ahblaza View Post
If you shut down your sub, power it off or unplug it, then pull the sub cable off, plug the power cord back in and then power on the sub and toggle the power switch on and off and notice if the driver moves at all and notice what sound the sub makes as you you toggle the power switch on and off. With the sub cable pulled and the sub's amp on stand by it should shut off within 10-15 minutes, if not the amp needs replaced. I had a problem with one of my XS30SEs not powering off at stand by for two hours, it ended it being the source which was my Comcast DVR which was the last source used before powering off the receiver, it had a residual noise signal that the sub's amp was detecting through the sub cable and thus the long shut off in stand by. I disconnected the the sub cable and the amp in stand by shut down in 10 minutes.
Your sub's amp not powering down in stand by with sub cable pulled means the amp is defective, the popping when the furnace kicking on is the circuit your sub is on and has nothing to do with the stand by mode not powering off without a sub cable attached. Try a different circuit or receptacle that you know the furnace is not on it and see if the popping still exists when the furnace kicks on, that will at least eliminate one problem. The other problem (sorry to keep repeating myself) with the sub in stand by not powering off without a sub cable plugged in is a defective amp, normal shutdown in stand by is 10-15 minutes. Do you hear the pop when the furnace kicks on with the sub cable pulled and in stand by mode? Also when you shut your AVR off is there a particular source that was used when you shut down the AVR or does it happen no matter what the previous source was used? The furnace situation has me concerned, I wouldn't worry about damaging the sub as I think the damage may already happened. If you get anything out of all that I said the sub amp in auto on/off position should never stay on with the sub cable pulled. Try a different outlet with an extension cord with a similar AWG as the sub's power cord and don't connect a sub interconnect and power it on and then put the toggle switch in the auto on/off position and see what happens, if all is as should be the sub will power down within 15 minutes and listen for the furnace starting and get back with your results. Sorry for the lengthy reply, I have a hard time trying to put my thought into words. I could have told you all of this in 2 or 3 sentences.
Cheers Jeff
Hey Jeff, ever head the song Ramble on by Led Zeppelin???.... JJ Jeff, thanks for the advice. I tried unplugged the sub cable and then turning the amp back on and still the light will not go off. I hear a sound like the driver is moving when I toggle the amp on and off. Isn't that normal though?

I will try plugging it into another outlet and see if that makes the same sound.
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post #15242 of 15243 Unread Yesterday, 09:59 PM
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Hey Jeff, ever head the song Ramble on by Led Zeppelin???.... JJ Jeff, thanks for the advice. I tried unplugged the sub cable and then turning the amp back on and still the light will not go off. I hear a sound like the driver is moving when I toggle the amp on and off. Isn't that normal though?

I will try plugging it into another outlet and see if that makes the same sound.
Yes that is normal to hear 2-3 soft whooshing sound when powering up the amp, I really believe your sub amp is defective, that is not normal for the stand by light to stay on without even having a sub cable connected, Jim told me that if after disconnecting the sub cable and turning the amp on and then toggle it to the auto on/off position the light should go off in 15 minutes tops, if not the amp needs replaced. That's coming straight from the man himself.
Cheers Jeff

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post #15243 of 15243 Unread Today, 05:55 AM
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I realize the entire floor should be suspended but if I decide to build a riser for my couch using 2X4s should I use a bottom piece of plywood along with the top as well. I don't know why I'm even thinking about this as I get very good tactile feel from my XS30SEs that are not near field and plan on adding some additional near field subs behind the PLP collocated. TIA
Cheers Jeff
Jeff, if I were you, I would install crowson transducers on your seating. They are not as cheap as some of the transducers, but you seem to prefer quality over "cheap". The DIY guys with the most capable and extensive multiple 18" driver subwoofer setups say that even with their "above reference capable, flat to 7 Hz systems", that transducers were the best addition they ever made to their system. You seem like a, within reason, spare no expense kind of guy. So figured I would plant that seed as the Crowsons usually result in a "why the heck did I wait so long to do this" type of thing. Apparently, they give an incredible tactile and realistic effect in the very low frequencies that no amount of subwoofer can replicate.

AVR:       Yamaha RXV-375

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