Official Power Sound Audio Subwoofer Thread - Page 550 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #16471 of 21143 Old 01-17-2015, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Hopinater View Post
+1 So true! When I added the 2nd XV15 the bass improved dramatically.

Then when I started using REW the bass improved dramatically again (Of course I had to do some rearranging with the subs…. and rearrange the room…. and run Audyssey a thousand times... but it has been well worth it).

Jeff, I know what you mean about being scared to see the FR in your room because it does open up Pandora's Box. But once you run REW you will be able to make adjustments where needed and in the end you will be soooooo much happier with your bass. And with all the money you have in your system it really is the the smart thing to do. Of course I put off doing it for over a year because I knew it would require a bit of work once I saw those graphs so i know exactly where you're coming from.
I will chime in as the one person this probably has not worked for. The obsession to get a flat graph has just about killed me. I have moved my subs into at least 20 different configs and I can never get rid of the 70 to 80 Hz dip. I now wonder why bother having good L/R if I have to set the crossover at 150 to get the best response. Just this morning I went down to one some to see if my subs were cancelling each other, dip in the same area. Makes me wonder if the sub could actually have a defect. All in all, I just don't think it's worth it.

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post #16472 of 21143 Old 01-17-2015, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom Vodhanel View Post
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Originally Posted by JasonT35 View Post
I have the original xv15 and this is probably a stupid question, but is there any possible advantage of removing the base plate and laying the sub on its side?
This will bump up the upper end FR slightly. If you have a dip in the 50-100hz range relative to the 15-50hz range it may smooth things a bit. The overall bass response may also change as the driver will actually be in a different location now relative to all the room boundaries. Can't hurt to experiment, we do get asked about "front firing" subs about 5x a day it seems..

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Thanks Tom. Is there anything special I need to do except remove the base? Do I screw the same bolts back into the holes?
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post #16473 of 21143 Old 01-17-2015, 11:35 AM
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Thanks Tom. Is there anything special I need to do except remove the base? Do I screw the same bolts back into the holes?
Its been a while since I put one of those together. I can't recall is the screws are long enough to bump into anything internally. For a temporary check you can run the same screws in by hand. They may go in all the way without hitting anything. You won't hit anything important(amp or driver) but you might get into the wall dampening material a little. If you matched the threads and got 1.25 length that might be best. Just be SURE to match the threads though...if one of the T-Nuts on the inside is pushed out by using the wrong threads....have fun with that..

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post #16474 of 21143 Old 01-17-2015, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom Vodhanel View Post
Its been a while since I put one of those together. I can't recall is the screws are long enough to bump into anything internally. For a temporary check you can run the same screws in by hand. They may go in all the way without hitting anything. You won't hit anything important(amp or driver) but you might get into the wall dampening material a little. If you matched the threads and got 1.25 length that might be best. Just be SURE to match the threads though...if one of the T-Nuts on the inside is pushed out by using the wrong threads....have fun with that..

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Tom I believe the screw thread is #10 24, I could be wrong but that's what most all the subs are.
Cheers Jeff
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post #16475 of 21143 Old 01-17-2015, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian Fineberg View Post
When gain matching where do you get the test tone from? And since the mic is so close to a driver why is it necessary to move the subs the middle of the room. Doesnt the close proximity of the mic null any boundary effects?
Brian just use the receiver's test tone. In my signature there's a brief example of gain matching and the benefit of doing it. I would definitely move the XS30s out into the room because of the dual drivers. I mark the sub distance with masking tape in relation to the SPL meter so I can get each sub the exact same distance from the meter (use the center of driver) 1.5-2" away to keep it consistent. It's the last line of my sig. Good luck.
Cheers Jeff
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post #16476 of 21143 Old 01-17-2015, 04:45 PM
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Jeff: I have both my XS30SE's in front of the room on the inside of my front speakers ( see my avatar), I did not corner load them as I find flushed corner loaded subs can sound boomy and I prefer clean bass. I initially set each sub to 82dbs and then let XT32 do its thing, now I own the Onkyo 818 ( I use as a Pre-amp ) and while it has XT32 it lacks subeq so it calibrates the 2 subs as 1. Audyssey set the trim level at -11.5 and then I bumped them up to -6.5db. I Finally had some time to sit back and enjoy them today, the first movie was Transformers: Age of Extinction. I remember seeing it at an I-Max and the bass was awesome and I remember thinking to myself " Damn that blonde is hot" well besides that I was thinking I need another XS30SE just for this movie when it gets released on Bluray. I got great Tactile feel with 1 sub and 2 just takes it to another level, the 1 thing I REALLY noticed since I added another XS30SE was how smooth and even everything sounds now, the extra headroom is evident. I'm running these beast 5bd hot and the subs are not even breaking a sweat, they just sit there and laugh at me saying " that's all you got". I could go on and on but this is something that needs to be experienced, if anyone is on the fence about adding more subs to their system I promise you that you will not regret it.
Mike I knew you would really enjoy the benefits of the dual XS30SEs. Mine are not flush against the walls, this did make them sound boomy, they are also on the insides of my mains as well quite a bit out of the corners, the right driver is about 18+ inches from the side wall and the right one is about 24" from the front wall with a slight angle to them, this gives me some chest thumping slam and evens out the response (adding the second). With just one I couldn't get an even output across all seating positions like I have now. With the PSA (210s) they just have a seamless integration, it's really amazing having an all PSA system. Now I need some back of the room reinforcement, I'm thinking of adding another row of seating, the misses gave me the go ahead to use the whole room and do whatever I wanted, she's a good woman, she just shakes her head

I second your reco that adding another sub is something you will not regret. Take care.
Cheers Jeff
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post #16477 of 21143 Old 01-17-2015, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by ahblaza View Post
Mike I knew you would really enjoy the benefits of the dual XS30SEs. Mine are not flush against the walls, this did make them sound boomy, they are also on the insides of my mains as well quite a bit out of the corners, the right driver is about 18+ inches from the side wall and the right one is about 24" from the front wall with a slight angle to them, this gives me some chest thumping slam and evens out the response (adding the second). With just one I couldn't get an even output across all seating positions like I have now. With the PSA (210s) they just have a seamless integration, it's really amazing having an all PSA system. Now I need some back of the room reinforcement, I'm thinking of adding another row of seating, the misses gave me the go ahead to use the whole room and do whatever I wanted, she's a good woman, she just shakes her head

I second your reco that adding another sub is something you will not regret. Take care.
Cheers Jeff
Sounds like a great misses Jeff to let you add the second row of seats! It's always nice having a wife that lets us have fun with our hobbies. My wife tries to pay attention when I'm talking with her and tries to act like she cares. But I know she really doesn't care.....lol


But at least she never tries to say I can't do or buy something, even when I was showing her the Seaton Cat12's I was telling her that I wanted to buy!....lol


We love having two rows of seats in our room and having other people over to enjoy the theater room too.
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post #16478 of 21143 Old 01-17-2015, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by LowellG View Post
I will chime in as the one person this probably has not worked for. The obsession to get a flat graph has just about killed me. I have moved my subs into at least 20 different configs and I can never get rid of the 70 to 80 Hz dip. I now wonder why bother having good L/R if I have to set the crossover at 150 to get the best response. Just this morning I went down to one some to see if my subs were cancelling each other, dip in the same area. Makes me wonder if the sub could actually have a defect. All in all, I just don't think it's worth it.
I know this is beating a dead horse, but did you ever go through the correct process for the sub distance tweak?

This procedure is designed to correct your exact problem.
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post #16479 of 21143 Old 01-17-2015, 06:06 PM
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I know this is beating a dead horse, but did you ever go through the correct process for the sub distance tweak?

This procedure is designed to correct your exact problem.
I tried to the best of my understanding of the process. I would leave on sub stationary and move the other. I tried moving both up, both down, opposite directions, small increments and large increments. My other issue is REW is inconsistent for me. Today it was running great, when I would start in up and calibrate the SPL level with REW, I could get it to 80db by having my receiver at -35. Then I reran Audessey with 1 sub, fired up REW to look at it and during the exact same calibration I had to put my receiver at -65 in order to have the REW SPL at 80db. This has happened to me multiple times before. That's when I packed things up, plugged both subs back in and recalibrated. I didn't bother to get REW out again today. I then used my handheld SPL meter to set all speakers at 75db and the subs individually at 78db. It gives me most of what I want there, but I can feel some difference in some movies. I might pull REW out again tomorrow, but if it's giving me the flaky db reading I will quit.

Overall, I feel like I don't know what I am even comparing it too. For one I was trying to compete with Bjorn's $250K theater, kind of unrealistic now that I think about it. Also competing against Magnolia's main HT demo theater, some scenes mine sounds better, so scenes it doesn't. I feel like I am just chasing a graph. I do know it sounds and feels better with Audessey on rather than off, and I am using the "flat" setting right now.

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post #16480 of 21143 Old 01-17-2015, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by LowellG View Post
I will chime in as the one person this probably has not worked for. The obsession to get a flat graph has just about killed me. I have moved my subs into at least 20 different configs and I can never get rid of the 70 to 80 Hz dip. I now wonder why bother having good L/R if I have to set the crossover at 150 to get the best response. Just this morning I went down to one some to see if my subs were cancelling each other, dip in the same area. Makes me wonder if the sub could actually have a defect. All in all, I just don't think it's worth it.
I hear you Lowell, it can be very frustrating to be sure. Here's a thought that might be helpful or might make things worse.

The other day I decided to lower my gains because Audyssey had set my subs at -12. So I lowered my gains (and touched nothing else), re-ran Audyssey and ran REW and the graphs looked terrible, no lower end. (I had solved that problem when I moved my subs). So I ran Audyssey again and ran REW and it looked a little better but still not like before. So I ran Audyssey again and the graphs looked about the same, still a major drop off at 40Hz.

Needless to say I was getting very angry at this point. So I decided to grab my daughter's lap top, download REW and run REW on that computer. The graphs looked good, like they should, like thy did before I lowered the gain. I even checked with Tom to see if lowering the gain would affect the graphs and he verified that lowing the gain would have no effect on the FR.

The moral of the story? REW is only as good as the computer you are running it on.
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post #16481 of 21143 Old 01-17-2015, 06:11 PM
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Sounds like a great misses Jeff to let you add the second row of seats! It's always nice having a wife that lets us have fun with our hobbies. My wife tries to pay attention when I'm talking with her and tries to act like she cares. But I know she really doesn't care.....lol


But at least she never tries to say I can't do or buy something, even when I was showing her the Seaton Cat12's I was telling her that I wanted to buy!....lol


We love having two rows of seats in our room and having other people over to enjoy the theater room too.
Yeah Joe she is, I do make it up to her though, she's not lacking in anything especially my attention. She could care less what I buy when it comes to audio, she just asks if I'm getting any new wires this week I just say yes and they will be coming in big boxes. One thing she does care about in my HT is the video, she really likes the big TV, I wonder how much she will like a big PJ

The seats are for aesthetic reasons, we don't do much entertaining anymore, we're SS recipients......
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post #16482 of 21143 Old 01-17-2015, 06:12 PM
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It's always nice having a wife that lets us have fun with our hobbies. My wife tries to pay attention when I'm talking with her and tries to act like she cares. But I know she really doesn't care.....lol
LOL, you just described my wife.
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post #16483 of 21143 Old 01-17-2015, 06:20 PM
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@Hop , thanks for that heads up, I have two older PCs and a new Laptop all loaded with REW, I was just going to use one of my older PCs as they are in the same room with my setup. I didn't want to use the laptop because it's 8.1 and I'm not familiar with it, after reading your post I think I better get used to using it (brand new). I wouldn't thought of that, thanks again.
Cheers, Jeffrey
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post #16484 of 21143 Old 01-17-2015, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Hopinater View Post
I hear you Lowell, it can be very frustrating to be sure. Here's a thought that might be helpful or might make things worse.

The other day I decided to lower my gains because Audyssey had set my subs at -12. So I lowered my gains (and touched nothing else), re-ran Audyssey and ran REW and the graphs looked terrible, no lower end. (I had solved that problem when I moved my subs). So I ran Audyssey again and ran REW and it looked a little better but still not like before. So I ran Audyssey again and the graphs looked about the same, still a major drop off at 40Hz.

Needless to say I was getting very angry at this point. So I decided to grab my daughter's lap top, download REW and run REW on that computer. The graphs looked good, like they should, like thy did before I lowered the gain. I even checked with Tom to see if lowering the gain would affect the graphs and he verified that lowing the gain would have no effect on the FR.

The moral of the story? REW is only as good as the computer you are running it on.

Thanks for the encouragement, it is very frustrating. However, I am not sure my computer is the problem unless it doesn't like a fairly highend computer. It's an I5 3570K with 16GB RAM and a 2GB Radeon 7970, Win 7 64bit on an 120GB SSD used mainly as a boot drive. That's connected directly to the X4000 via HDMI and then to my projector. Maybe something is going on there.


I have thought about trying my daughters laptop just to make sure. I will look at it tomorrow.
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post #16485 of 21143 Old 01-17-2015, 06:36 PM
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LOL, you just described my wife.
I have a bit of a dirt bike hobby too, I just keep the bikes the same colour and she doesn't even notice when I get a new bike every other year!....lol
Not that she would say anything anyways!.....lol
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post #16486 of 21143 Old 01-18-2015, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by ahblaza View Post
@Hop , thanks for that heads up, I have two older PCs and a new Laptop all loaded with REW, I was just going to use one of my older PCs as they are in the same room with my setup. I didn't want to use the laptop because it's 8.1 and I'm not familiar with it, after reading your post I think I better get used to using it (brand new). I wouldn't thought of that, thanks again.
Cheers, Jeffrey
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Originally Posted by LowellG View Post
Thanks for the encouragement, it is very frustrating. However, I am not sure my computer is the problem unless it doesn't like a fairly highend computer. It's an I5 3570K with 16GB RAM and a 2GB Radeon 7970, Win 7 64bit on an 120GB SSD used mainly as a boot drive. That's connected directly to the X4000 via HDMI and then to my projector. Maybe something is going on there.


I have thought about trying my daughters laptop just to make sure. I will look at it tomorrow.

Yeah I'm not saying that what I experienced is a common problem (I doubt it is) but since I encountered it I thought I would share so it can at least be on people's radar. Just one more thing to be aware of.
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post #16487 of 21143 Old 01-18-2015, 01:05 PM
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Jeff: I have both of my XS30SE set up in the front of the room and I get the most output with both phase's set at zero. My buddy ( Buckley44 ) ordered a mic so we both can graph our rooms, expect several questions from us, thanks in advance guys.
Mike, I can't tell from your avatar the position of your XS30s, I see they are are on the insides of your mains, is one driver firing into the front wall (if so how far off the wall) and the other into the room. I would like to try that myself if that's how you have them orientated, it looks good like that and apparently sounds good as well. I will let REW decide what is the best location, for now though I'm really liking where they're at. TIA
Cheers Jeff

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post #16488 of 21143 Old 01-18-2015, 01:09 PM
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@Alan , how do I put this link in my signature so folks can see what it is before clicking on it? It's a how to Time Align multiple subs with MINIDSP 2X4 and gain matching multiple subs. It's the last line in my sig? TIA
Cheers Jeff

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post #16489 of 21143 Old 01-19-2015, 06:29 AM
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Mike, I can't tell from your avatar the position of your XS30s, I see they are are on the insides of your mains, is one driver firing into the front wall (if so how far off the wall) and the other into the room. I would like to try that myself if that's how you have them orientated, it looks good like that and apparently sounds good as well. I will let REW decide what is the best location, for now though I'm really liking where they're at. TIA
Cheers Jeff
Jeff: Yes one driver is firing into the back wall and the front firing into the room right at the MLP, on both subs there is 14 1/2 inches from the back driver to an acoustical panel hanging on the back wall below the screen, if the panel was not there then it would be 16 inches. The left sub is 18 inches from an acoustical panel (4 inches thick) on the left side wall and there's a bass trap in the corner, the sub on the right is 24 inches from an acoustical panel (4 inches thick ) on the right side wall. The distance from the front of the subs to the front of the MLP ( couch ) is 7 ft 9 inches. When I had my old sub, Mirage BPS400 dual 12inch drivers, the drivers were mounted on the sides instead of front and back on the XS30SE, once Buckley44 and I get REW up and running I will try multiple driver positions and see what measures and feels the best. I absolutely love the position of the subs right now, looks and sound wise.
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Equipment List: Benq W6000, Darbee DVP-5000 Video Processor, JKP Affinity 100 inch 16x9 .9 gain reference screen, Onkyo 818 receiver, 3-Marantz Ma700 and 2-Ma6100 mono blocks, 9.2 set-up, B&W Nautilus 805 front speakers, B&W Nautilus HTM2 center speaker, Infinity ( soon to be replaced by B&W ) bookshelf Height Speakers, Mirage HDT-R side speakers, Jamo THX surround one rear speakers, Dual PSA XS30se subs, Richard Grey, Monster Power, and Panamax powerline conditioning/surge protection.

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post #16490 of 21143 Old 01-19-2015, 07:26 AM
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Tom or Jim, I notice there is no Cea2010 data, size dimensions, or finish options listed for the T-18. There is actually more information on the Triax over at www.deephzaudio.com then what is listed on the PSA site.

Getting Started with REW: A Step by Step Guide --> http://www.mediafire.com/view/aolmz2..._101_v3.92.pdf

Mini DSP Tutorial by Neutro --> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-su...g-minidsp.html

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post #16491 of 21143 Old 01-19-2015, 09:00 AM
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When gain matching where do you get the test tone from? And since the mic is so close to a driver why is it necessary to move the subs the middle of the room. Doesnt the close proximity of the mic null any boundary effects?
I actually tested this in my room (with the old XS15s) and there was very little difference between gain matching in the middle of the room and gain matching "in place". From then on, I gain matched "in place".
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post #16492 of 21143 Old 01-19-2015, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by LowellG View Post
I will chime in as the one person this probably has not worked for. The obsession to get a flat graph has just about killed me. I have moved my subs into at least 20 different configs and I can never get rid of the 70 to 80 Hz dip. I now wonder why bother having good L/R if I have to set the crossover at 150 to get the best response. Just this morning I went down to one some to see if my subs were cancelling each other, dip in the same area. Makes me wonder if the sub could actually have a defect. All in all, I just don't think it's worth it.
Since you've moved your subs to every available position with the same results, that dip is obviously being caused by the location of your MLP.

If you're unwilling or unable to move the MLP, the only answer is more subs.

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Originally Posted by LowellG View Post
I tried to the best of my understanding of the process. I would leave on sub stationary and move the other. I tried moving both up, both down, opposite directions, small increments and large increments. My other issue is REW is inconsistent for me. Today it was running great, when I would start in up and calibrate the SPL level with REW, I could get it to 80db by having my receiver at -35. Then I reran Audessey with 1 sub, fired up REW to look at it and during the exact same calibration I had to put my receiver at -65 in order to have the REW SPL at 80db. This has happened to me multiple times before. That's when I packed things up, plugged both subs back in and recalibrated. I didn't bother to get REW out again today. I then used my handheld SPL meter to set all speakers at 75db and the subs individually at 78db. It gives me most of what I want there, but I can feel some difference in some movies. I might pull REW out again tomorrow, but if it's giving me the flaky db reading I will quit.

Overall, I feel like I don't know what I am even comparing it too. For one I was trying to compete with Bjorn's $250K theater, kind of unrealistic now that I think about it. Also competing against Magnolia's main HT demo theater, some scenes mine sounds better, so scenes it doesn't. I feel like I am just chasing a graph. I do know it sounds and feels better with Audessey on rather than off, and I am using the "flat" setting right now.
When doing the sub distance tweak on an AVR with SubEQ HT do not adjust the distance for each sub individually...you need to "move" both subs as one (adjust the distance the same amount for each sub) because you are trying to get the entire sub "system" in phase with the center channel.

Concerning your measurement issues...did you ever get that mic boom or are you still using a pillow?
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post #16493 of 21143 Old 01-19-2015, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by ahblaza View Post
Mike I knew you would really enjoy the benefits of the dual XS30SEs. Mine are not flush against the walls, this did make them sound boomy, they are also on the insides of my mains as well quite a bit out of the corners, the right driver is about 18+ inches from the side wall and the right one is about 24" from the front wall with a slight angle to them, this gives me some chest thumping slam and evens out the response (adding the second). With just one I couldn't get an even output across all seating positions like I have now. With the PSA (210s) they just have a seamless integration, it's really amazing having an all PSA system. Now I need some back of the room reinforcement, I'm thinking of adding another row of seating, the misses gave me the go ahead to use the whole room and do whatever I wanted, she's a good woman, she just shakes her head

I second your reco that adding another sub is something you will not regret. Take care.
Cheers Jeff
Uh oh! You do know that's going to require more subs, right??


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post #16494 of 21143 Old 01-19-2015, 09:10 AM
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@Alan , how do I put this link in my signature so folks can see what it is before clicking on it? It's a how to Time Align multiple subs with MINIDSP 2X4 and gain matching multiple subs. It's the last line in my sig? TIA
Cheers Jeff
Here you go Jeff. Just put a "[" in front.

URL="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/78476446/MiniDSP%204x2%20Set-Up%20Guide.pdf"]Using MiniDSP 2x4 to Time-Align Multiple Subs with Audyssey[/URL]

It will then look like this:

Using MiniDSP 2x4 to Time-Align Multiple Subs with Audyssey
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post #16495 of 21143 Old 01-19-2015, 09:14 AM
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Taking a note from Jefferey and his minor placement/orientation tweaks, I decided to move my T-18s out of the rear corners (about 30") and towards the center of the wall.

The results were good.

Less "boomy", more "controlled"...and I think I'm getting more extension. Gonna take some measurements tonight, it was too late last night.

The right rear sub is now literally 6" from my seat*.


*Can't locate it at all though.
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post #16496 of 21143 Old 01-19-2015, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Alan P View Post
Taking a note from Jefferey and his minor placement/orientation tweaks, I decided to move my T-18s out of the rear corners (about 30") and towards the center of the wall.

The results were good.

Less "boomy", more "controlled"...and I think I'm getting more extension. Gonna take some measurements tonight, it was too late last night.

The right rear sub is now literally 6" from my seat*.


*Can't locate it at all though.
Same happened for me moving a single XS30 from the corner and more towards mid wall. Also about a 30" move. Huge difference.
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post #16497 of 21143 Old 01-19-2015, 09:26 AM
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Tom or Jim, I notice there is no Cea2010 data, size dimensions, or finish options listed for the T-18. There is actually more information on the Triax over at www.deephzaudio.com then what is listed on the PSA site.
Hi Bass,

We're looking at about 3 weeks for the new site going live although I'm sure it will take us longer than that to get it where we really want it. We haven't been updating the old site for a while now...just focusing all our energy on the new one. Interestingly, I'm really not sure how much that information means in the long run. We have sold more T-18s in the last 2-3 months than Triax in the previous 12 months. And we didn't even have a picture of the T-18 on the site(not even sure if we do now or not?).

The new site will contain all of that information(weight, height, etc) for all products of course.

Tom V.
Power Sound Audio
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post #16498 of 21143 Old 01-19-2015, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Butny View Post
Jeff: Yes one driver is firing into the back wall and the front firing into the room right at the MLP, there is 14 1/2 inches from the back driver to the acoustical panel hanging on the back wall below the screen, if the panel was not there then it would be 16 inches. The left sub is 18 inches from an acoustical panel (4 inches thick) on the left side wall and there's a bass trap in the corner, the sub on the right is 24 inches from an acoustical panel (4 inches thick ) on the right side wall. The distance from the front of the subs to the front of the MLP ( couch ) is 7 ft 9 inches. When I had my old sub, Mirage BPS400 dual 12inch drivers, the drivers were mounted on the sides instead of front and back on the XS30SE, once Buckley44 and I get REW up and running I will try multiple driver positions and see what measures and feels the best. I absolutely love the position of the subs right now, looks and sound wise.
WOW that's really far out from the wall! I thought most people keep their subs just a few inches from the wall.

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post #16499 of 21143 Old 01-19-2015, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by mnc View Post
WOW that's really far out from the wall! I thought most people keep their subs just a few inches from the wall.
Well the closer the sub is to the surrounding walls it will give you more output but also it usually will provide boomy undefined bass, I like to have the subs at least 12 inches away from the backwall and sidewall. I plan on moving them around more once I have REW up and running to determine that "sweet" spot.
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Equipment List: Benq W6000, Darbee DVP-5000 Video Processor, JKP Affinity 100 inch 16x9 .9 gain reference screen, Onkyo 818 receiver, 3-Marantz Ma700 and 2-Ma6100 mono blocks, 9.2 set-up, B&W Nautilus 805 front speakers, B&W Nautilus HTM2 center speaker, Infinity ( soon to be replaced by B&W ) bookshelf Height Speakers, Mirage HDT-R side speakers, Jamo THX surround one rear speakers, Dual PSA XS30se subs, Richard Grey, Monster Power, and Panamax powerline conditioning/surge protection.

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post #16500 of 21143 Old 01-19-2015, 11:19 AM
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OK I knew putting a sub in a corner could make it sound too "boomy", just didn't know having it too close to a wall did the same. Thanks!

NHT speakers, Denon 4520, Panasonic 65VT50, DUAL PSA XS30SE's
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