Official Power Sound Audio Subwoofer Thread - Page 808 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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Old 11-18-2015, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by lizrussspike View Post
So,
I finally got the Xv15se in the room, with the V3600 in the back and the girls wanted to watch the Incredible Hulk. I still haven't run Audy, but WOW, with all the doors closed in an almost sealed room, I was again amazed by the power of PSA!! Thank you all for helping me indulge in this necessity. Ears were pulsing with the sounds waves from the Jeeps, just a pounding experience. I am going to run Audy with the 3 subs and the 5 210s, and get the room in shape for the next viewing tonight- The girls want to watch one of the Batman flicks! I get a slight idea of what you get Hop, but yet still so far. Good night everyone and happy LFE hunting!


Hope to hear from you soon Brian F. We miss you posts.
That sounds like it's pretty incredible. Enjoy the LFE night.

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Old 11-18-2015, 04:31 PM
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speaking of the incredible hulk, anyone know where that sonic cannon scene falls in the HZ spectrum? the initial blast is always pretty impressive, but then it levels out and it just seems like there should be some serious rumble with it. anyone know?
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Old 11-19-2015, 07:36 AM
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Old 11-19-2015, 08:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kelly.mcaloney View Post
I just received mine last Friday and bought it without knowing these things because I am aware they are not the most important things, but it's good to have a rough idea, for when some asks, thanks for the quick reply and I love mine it totally exceeded my expectations,


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Oh, had no idea you had the V1800 on hand already. Sometimes I get a bit carried away when the subject of driver weight or peak-peak comes up. So much misinformation is spread regarding these topics---at times it seems like that only performance metrics that matter to some are driver weight and *claimed* excursion. Its just such a car audio/boom mentality...

Sorry for the previous rant---very good to know the V1800 is working out for you!

Tom V.
Power Sound Audio
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Old 11-19-2015, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Alan P View Post
so it looks like most of it centers around 20-60hz. that is one of those scenes where i just always feel like i'm missing something from the true deep stuff....just seems it would have all kinds of output to shake the room. there is one rift where everything slows down and it "moves" the room, but after that there seems to be no shake, just noise. i figured if i'm not feeling extra with a v3600, then it must not have a ton below 20. interesting.
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Old 11-19-2015, 10:15 AM
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Well I got a PM from a member but can't reply since I don't have 15 posts yet . So to answer the member's question.....it sure was rainy last night here south of Jamestown....and congrats on your new V1800!
Kelly

Post #9 complete.
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Old 11-19-2015, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Vodhanel View Post
Oh, had no idea you had the V1800 on hand already. Sometimes I get a bit carried away when the subject of driver weight or peak-peak comes up. So much misinformation is spread regarding these topics---at times it seems like that only performance metrics that matter to some are driver weight and *claimed* excursion. Its just such a car audio/boom mentality...



Sorry for the previous rant---very good to know the V1800 is working out for you!



Tom V.

Power Sound Audio

No worries, it was me just being curious, I bought this unit for a couple reasons, non of which are the previously mentioned, # 1 is actually your customer service reputation, which has nothing to do with the product at all,I've been burned a couple times so it is important to me, having access to u is a bonus, but I will say that the product is very nice and I could truly not be happier!!


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Old 11-19-2015, 11:53 AM
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Thanks to Tom's great support, I just ordered two V1800 subs ... I am really excited now upon their arrival.

I'll let you know how this is going to work out for my house, cats, the dog and ... hm ... the significant other ;-)
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Old 11-19-2015, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kelly.mcaloney View Post
No worries, it was me just being curious, I bought this unit for a couple reasons, non of which are the previously mentioned, # 1 is actually your customer service reputation, which has nothing to do with the product at all,I've been burned a couple times so it is important to me, having access to u is a bonus, but I will say that the product is very nice and I could truly not be happier!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin Grimm View Post
Thanks to Tom's great support, I just ordered two V1800 subs ... I am really excited now upon their arrival.

I'll let you know how this is going to work out for my house, cats, the dog and ... hm ... the significant other ;-)
Congratulations to the both of you. Enjoy your new subs. Movies take on a whole new life with subs like those. But music also sounds great as well. In fact as I type this I'm sitting here listening to some 70's music and was just thinking how great everything sounded.
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Old 11-19-2015, 01:07 PM
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So just received my S1500. Bad thing is it is not working. Is there a way I can test to see if the Subwoofer out on my AVR is bad? My other sub was blown and that stopped working about 1-2 weeks ago. I have a Denon AVR-X1000.

I ran a setup on my receiver. All speakers made a tone other than the subwoofer. I tried putting the subwoofer in Auto as well as On mode while testing.
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Old 11-19-2015, 01:09 PM
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I had posted 2-3 weeks ago that I was going to be moving into a new home with a much larger media room (approximately 6000 cubic ft), and that I was looking at replacing my existing PC+ 20-39 sub with a PSA Sub(s) as I was worried the current sub would not be enough for the new room.

My family has moved into the new home now, and after a few days of getting most of the essentials unpacked and setup (I'm sure many here would say getting your HT up and running is the most essential task when moving into a new home!!) , I finally was able to get the HT/stereo equipment setup last night. I started with the SVS sub in the front left corner, and I calibrated my anti-mode 8033 with it. This device will tame the peaks but not the nulls to any significant degree. I put in a movie and the bass was not good at all. It was weak, bloated sounding, and very easily localized in the front left corner. I pulled it out of the left corner and moved it about a third of the way along the left side wall. The bloated, muddy bass went away, but it still sounded somewhat weak overall. In my older, smaller room it sounded absolutely great to me and was not easily localized even though it was in the front right corner there. The room is almost square (29' x 27') with 8 foot ceilings, and just has one opening to the stairwell, which adds a little more open space to the area.

So, the previous advice I received was that I would need two subs (at least) for this size room, and based on what I witnessed/heard last night I fully believe now that I will need two capable subs in this room. I'm not a bass freak by any means, but it was clear to me that I was not getting the output or coverage needed in the room.

Is it more easy to localize a single sub in a large room? I would assume that it is, but what I heard last night really makes me believe that it is.

Also, due some shelving that exists on the front wall and with the equipment I already have setup in place, I will either have to place the two subs in the front corners (and based on last night I'm not sure I want to place them in the corners) or I will have to place them on the side walls about a third of the way down from the front wall. This is what I would like to do. Is there anything wrong with placing them on side walls opposite of each other in this fashion? I'm fully aware of the sub crawl method, and I may do that. I may also eventually get REW to measure the response as well.

My last question is this. I may start out with one V1800 and pair it with my current SVS for the time being. Then in 2-3 months get a 2nd v1800 to replace the SVS. While not ideal as they would not be the same exact model sub, does anyone see a significant problem with pairing these two together in my room.
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Old 11-19-2015, 01:15 PM
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Gotta love these "lurkers" when, out of the blue, they come out and order dual V1800s, S3000is, and whatnot. Hole smokes!

Welcome to the PSA family. Turn up the bass and get crazy
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Yippee-ki-yay...
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Old 11-19-2015, 01:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucasscheibe View Post
So just received my S1500. Bad thing is it is not working. Is there a way I can test to see if the Subwoofer out on my AVR is bad? My other sub was blown and that stopped working about 1-2 weeks ago. I have a Denon AVR-X1000.

I ran a setup on my receiver. All speakers made a tone other than the subwoofer. I tried putting the subwoofer in Auto as well as On mode while testing.
Jump on the phone (or website) and talk to Tom. He will help you trouble shoot and get everything figured out.

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Old 11-19-2015, 01:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucasscheibe View Post
So just received my S1500. Bad thing is it is not working. Is there a way I can test to see if the Subwoofer out on my AVR is bad? My other sub was blown and that stopped working about 1-2 weeks ago. I have a Denon AVR-X1000.

I ran a setup on my receiver. All speakers made a tone other than the subwoofer. I tried putting the subwoofer in Auto as well as On mode while testing.
Come into chat if you have time, we'll be able to go through all the trouble-shooting stuff much quicker.

1)be 100% sure you're hitting the sub output on the back of the receiver. I know this sounds dumb but it is very easy to use an adjacent RCA jack by mistake.

2)Gain on sub up a little, crossover all the way up.

3)all speakers set to small/80hz. Try some bassy music to see if you're getting anything. If not, try a different sub cable. Any old audio cable will do for this temp check...even old composite video cables work fine.

Tom V.
Power Sound Audio
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Old 11-19-2015, 01:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucasscheibe View Post
So just received my S1500. Bad thing is it is not working. Is there a way I can test to see if the Subwoofer out on my AVR is bad? My other sub was blown and that stopped working about 1-2 weeks ago. I have a Denon AVR-X1000.

I ran a setup on my receiver. All speakers made a tone other than the subwoofer. I tried putting the subwoofer in Auto as well as On mode while testing.
Did you tell Audyssey that you have a sub connected before you ran calibration? It's under channel or speaker config (something like that) when you start Audyssey. You would only have to do this if you told the AVR previously that you had no sub.

To test if it's the sub, you could connect it to a different source (iPod,smart phone, CD player, etc.) just to make sure it is working.
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Old 11-19-2015, 01:36 PM
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@dislocatedday ... While it wont be ideal using the SVS sub with the much more powerful V1800 it should be okay (since they are both ported). If one of the subs will be closer to the listening position then I would put the weaker SVS in that location.

Regarding sub location…I have found that the recommended locations for subs are just that…recommendations based on theory. But in real life each room is different and therefore trial and error (translation…moving subs around the room looking for the best response) is required. I would encourage you to pursue the notion of getting REW (sooner rather than later) because that's by far the best way to dial in your subs. IMO the sub crawl is barely better than randomly placing your sub somewhere and hoping it's a good place.

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Old 11-19-2015, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan P View Post
Did you tell Audyssey that you have a sub connected before you ran calibration? It's under channel or speaker config (something like that) when you start Audyssey. You would only have to do this if you told the AVR previously that you had no sub.

To test if it's the sub, you could connect it to a different source (iPod,smart phone, CD player, etc.) just to make sure it is working.
Yes I did. I am trying to figure out what else I can connect the receiver up to to test it but I don't have another subwoofer at all. Or can I hook up something else to the sub with the RCA cables?
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Old 11-19-2015, 01:51 PM
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Yes, connect a different source to the sub.
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Old 11-19-2015, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Vodhanel View Post
Come into chat if you have time, we'll be able to go through all the trouble-shooting stuff much quicker.



1)be 100% sure you're hitting the sub output on the back of the receiver. I know this sounds dumb but it is very easy to use an adjacent RCA jack by mistake.



2)Gain on sub up a little, crossover all the way up.



3)all speakers set to small/80hz. Try some bassy music to see if you're getting anything. If not, try a different sub cable. Any old audio cable will do for this temp check...even old composite video cables work fine.



Tom V.

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Tried a new cable and voila! It works.


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Old 11-19-2015, 02:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dislocatedday View Post
I had posted 2-3 weeks ago that I was going to be moving into a new home with a much larger media room (approximately 6000 cubic ft), and that I was looking at replacing my existing PC+ 20-39 sub with a PSA Sub(s) as I was worried the current sub would not be enough for the new room.

My family has moved into the new home now, and after a few days of getting most of the essentials unpacked and setup (I'm sure many here would say getting your HT up and running is the most essential task when moving into a new home!!) , I finally was able to get the HT/stereo equipment setup last night. I started with the SVS sub in the front left corner, and I calibrated my anti-mode 8033 with it. This device will tame the peaks but not the nulls to any significant degree. I put in a movie and the bass was not good at all. It was weak, bloated sounding, and very easily localized in the front left corner. I pulled it out of the left corner and moved it about a third of the way along the left side wall. The bloated, muddy bass went away, but it still sounded somewhat weak overall. In my older, smaller room it sounded absolutely great to me and was not easily localized even though it was in the front right corner there. The room is almost square (29' x 27') with 8 foot ceilings, and just has one opening to the stairwell, which adds a little more open space to the area.

So, the previous advice I received was that I would need two subs (at least) for this size room, and based on what I witnessed/heard last night I fully believe now that I will need two capable subs in this room. I'm not a bass freak by any means, but it was clear to me that I was not getting the output or coverage needed in the room.

Is it more easy to localize a single sub in a large room? I would assume that it is, but what I heard last night really makes me believe that it is.

Also, due some shelving that exists on the front wall and with the equipment I already have setup in place, I will either have to place the two subs in the front corners (and based on last night I'm not sure I want to place them in the corners) or I will have to place them on the side walls about a third of the way down from the front wall. This is what I would like to do. Is there anything wrong with placing them on side walls opposite of each other in this fashion? I'm fully aware of the sub crawl method, and I may do that. I may also eventually get REW to measure the response as well.

My last question is this. I may start out with one V1800 and pair it with my current SVS for the time being. Then in 2-3 months get a 2nd v1800 to replace the SVS. While not ideal as they would not be the same exact model sub, does anyone see a significant problem with pairing these two together in my room.

Well, in a 6200^3 room I wouldn't expect miracles from a single V1800...but it should still sound pretty good. I would try nearfield placement if at all possible. This will get you the flattest response at the MLP with the most tactile feedback.

You say the room is almost square...please don't tell me your listening position is in the center of the room (either width or length) nor up against a wall.

Do you only have the Antimode or do you have an AVR with auto-EQ as well? If you do have auto-EQ, it is very common for it to set the sub trim too low for most people's preference. Feel free to boost the sub trim 3-6db and see how you like it.

Corner placement can cause "bloated, boomy" sound.

Placing the sub a third of the way down the side wall is better than in a corner (probably), but there is no way to know for certain without measuring your response. Now that you are about to get into the "multi-sub" club, getting a calibrated mic and learning REW would be very beneficial.

You mention that if you do get dual subs, you would place them both in the front corners or in the same, but mirrored positions along the side walls...symmetry is bass's worst enemy. First of all, dual subs both up front will offer little to none of the mode smoothing benefits of dual subs. One in front and one in back is much better in that respect. Second, you do not want your subs placed symmetrically around the room (unless you have one in all four corners or at the midpoint of all four walls), you want them placed for best response (again, as measured by REW).

And this brings up another point; if you plan to get dual subs, and one needs to go in the back of the room and is closer to the MLP than the first sub...you will need some way to delay the signal. An AVR with XT32 can do it, or any number of outboard devices (the MiniDSP being the cheapest/most popular).

Just remember, a subwoofer will tell you where it wants to live...not the other way around.
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Old 11-19-2015, 02:09 PM
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Tried a new cable and voila! It works.


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Awesome!
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Old 11-19-2015, 02:28 PM
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What is the timing of the auto-on/off of a V1500? Mine is switching off pretty quickly after no signal (around 30 seconds.) For example, I was listening to music at low levels, and it switched off and on a few times during music. I got tired of hearing it clicking on to off to on so much, so I decided to quit listening to the music. First, I checked the back of the subwoofer and found that it was on (green.) I then turned off the music, and within about 30 seconds I heard the same click. I then checked the subwoofer, and found that it was now off (red.)

I am concerned about wear and tear (by sound of clicking, it seems it is mechanical gate/switch.) Tom, in PSA chat, said it was within tolerance levels turning off in 30 seconds.

Do others noticed them turning off so quickly? It seems you could easily go 30 seconds in music or movies without content for the subwoofer, so if it turns off so quickly, it could be switching on and off frequently. Other subwoofers seem to take several minutes to turn off - even with no signal at all.

Last edited by checker9; 11-19-2015 at 02:37 PM.
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Old 11-19-2015, 03:05 PM
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@checker9 … I think my V3600's turn off somewhere between 30 to 60 seconds. I've never had a problem with them turning off listening to music though. I know you asked about the V1500 but the V3600 has an ICE amp as well so I assume they are similar.

Out of curiosity…why would you stop listening to music if your subs turning on and off from a lack of bass signal? Wouldn't it make more sense just to leave your sub on all the time? What's the point of spending big money on a great sub if you don't use it for everything (music and movies). Tom has said many times that leaving the sub on all the time will not hurt it and I've read from many members that they leave their sub on all the time with no problem.

Final note. PSA has a 5 year warranty, I wouldn't stress about things wearing out. If it does that's why you have the warranty. My suggestion is stop worrying and ENJOY your sub.
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Old 11-19-2015, 03:12 PM
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I also leave my subs on all the time...well, until now. I just ordered one of them fancy-dancy power sensing, master/slave power strips for my T-18s (the T-18s don't have auto-off). Haven't got it yet so I don't know how well it works though.

Haven't tried the auto-off on the new S3000 yet. I'll give it a go tonight and see if it's flaky at all.
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Old 11-19-2015, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Hopinater View Post
@checker9 … I think my V3600's turn off somewhere between 30 to 60 seconds. I've never had a problem with them turning off listening to music though. I know you asked about the V1500 but the V3600 has an ICE amp as well so I assume they are similar.

What is your calibrated line level? I have adjusted gain down to have -11, -9.5 and -7 Audyssey calibrated line levels and it has turned on and off on music on all three but I listen at low levels with no subwoofer boost and DynaEQ off.

I like to listen to music at background levels (~-40 on master volume) during the day. With DynaEQ on, it does not seem to cycle on/off but I turn DynaEQ off because it is too strong at those sound levels causing the bass to overpower the other parts of the music. I stream music so some is more bass heavy than other.

When I first had the problem, Tom V advised me to turn gain down so I get a higher line level output at AVR. I turned it down until I got -7, giving me ability to run subwoofer hot up to 6 dB for movies (it was at -11 before that change.) I had it there a few days and it still did the on/off things at -7.

Last edited by checker9; 11-19-2015 at 05:13 PM.
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Old 11-19-2015, 04:47 PM
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I have my gain set so Audyssey sets the trim at -8.5. But I like to run my subs hot so I set my trim at -2.

Why don't you just leave your sub on all the time if you're concerned about the switch wearing out?
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Old 11-20-2015, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Kevin Grimm View Post
Thanks to Tom's great support, I just ordered two V1800 subs ... I am really excited now upon their arrival.

I'll let you know how this is going to work out for my house, cats, the dog and ... hm ... the significant other ;-)
Shipped a couple hours after the order, should be there today.

Be sure to let me know if you bump into any setup or calibration questions Kevin.

Tom V.
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Old 11-20-2015, 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by checker9 View Post
What is the timing of the auto-on/off of a V1500? Mine is switching off pretty quickly after no signal (around 30 seconds.) For example, I was listening to music at low levels, and it switched off and on a few times during music. I got tired of hearing it clicking on to off to on so much, so I decided to quit listening to the music. First, I checked the back of the subwoofer and found that it was on (green.) I then turned off the music, and within about 30 seconds I heard the same click. I then checked the subwoofer, and found that it was now off (red.)

I am concerned about wear and tear (by sound of clicking, it seems it is mechanical gate/switch.) Tom, in PSA chat, said it was within tolerance levels turning off in 30 seconds.

Do others noticed them turning off so quickly? It seems you could easily go 30 seconds in music or movies without content for the subwoofer, so if it turns off so quickly, it could be switching on and off frequently. Other subwoofers seem to take several minutes to turn off - even with no signal at all.
The auto-on duration is dependent on the strength of the signal activating the circuit. If the signal barely "ticks" this threshold the duration can be quite short----30-60 seconds for example. You can remedy this by turning up the bass level setting in the receiver menu and lowering the gain setting on the sub amp slightly. Also, using a Y and connecting both inputs on the sub will give you a 6dB increase in gain structure too. And, of course, simply setting the amp(s) to *ON* is always an option.

Tom V.
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Old 11-20-2015, 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by lucasscheibe View Post
Tried a new cable and voila! It works.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yeah, its almost like I've worked through these types of things once or twice...

Good deal Lucas---keep me in the loop if you bump into ANY other setup issues.

Tom V.
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Old 11-20-2015, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by dislocatedday View Post
I may start out with one V1800 and pair it with my current SVS for the time being. Then in 2-3 months get a 2nd v1800 to replace the SVS. While not ideal as they would not be the same exact model sub, does anyone see a significant problem with pairing these two together in my room.
This won't be ideal but it should work fine as a temporary solution. Keep the 20-39PC+ set to 20hz for a couple of reasons. First, that's max output mode and the 20-39PC+ will need all the help it can get to keep up with the V1800. Second, 20hz mode should give you the closest FR shaping between the two products overall. This is important to avoid/minimize and phase shift related cancellations.

The V1800 is going to have nearly triple the headroom with the advantages being weighted to the mid and upper bass(40-120hz for example).

Which receiver are you using in the system?

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