Budget subwoofers discussions, opinions and questions thread - Page 120 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3571 of 3577 Old Yesterday, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post
Dont use higher volumes.
... and place the sub near field. If you are not on the first floor, or your underflooring is not concrete, consider a Subdude or similar to mechanically de-couple the sub from the floor.

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post #3572 of 3577 Old Yesterday, 04:22 PM
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Lol, I guess we could argue all day about what volume levels and frequencies bother people. 20-30hz loud enough to shakes objects would piss me off, similarly to 60hz "beats" loud enough to hear, so I guess the key element here is volume, and ensuring that 25hz is nearly as present as 50hz, as 100hz, and so on. I am on the basement level, so I have slightly more freedom.

In any case I ended up with a Sinclair Brighton 310S, at 1/3 the msrp after taxes, I couldn't pass it up. Hopefully someone can refresh my memory on how passive radiators work, how would I go about "tuning" them lower. Would locking one of them off lower the fs or bring it up?
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post #3573 of 3577 Old Yesterday, 04:39 PM
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Nevermind, if I remember correctly more surface area combined with greater weight equals a lower tuning frequency for pr's, at the expense of output. So I guess the easiest way to get what I want from it is to add some extra weight to the pr cones. I suppose applying a subsonic filter in software would also be useful, particularly with the inherent notch the pr's create.
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post #3574 of 3577 Old Yesterday, 06:53 PM - Thread Starter
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So I guess the easiest way to get what I want from it is to add some extra weight to the pr cones.
Or get a big enough subwoofer that it comes inherently able to do what you want it to.

Messing around like that with a manufactured sub is likely to put it outside the tolerances it was engineered with. If so, you could alter the SQ - or shorten the life of those PR's - so it's probably not a good idea to make those alterations.
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post #3575 of 3577 Old Yesterday, 06:58 PM
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Or get a big enough subwoofer that it comes inherently able to do what you want it to.

Messing around like that with a manufactured sub is likely to put it outside the tolerances it was engineered with. If so, you could alter the SQ - or shorten the life of those PR's - so it's probably not a good idea to make those alterations.
The idea is to alter the where the passive radiators kick in in, ideally tuning them lower. Power output is fine, but it's definitely stronger in the 30-40hz range than it is in the 25-30hz range. My goal is to balance it, I thought we had come to an understanding on the "hearing" vs "feeling" aspect in a small room?
If you are into sub design, you are aware that passive radiators are tuned via the addition of weight to the pr cone. A subsonic filter is useful as well, to avoid overexcursion below the notch point.
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post #3576 of 3577 Old Yesterday, 07:17 PM - Thread Starter
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My comments have nothing to do with hearing versus feeling, it has to do with adding additional weight to the PR's that the manufacturer didn't account for. Are you sure the suspension is going to tolerate it OK? You can do whatever you'd like, I was just pointing out the fact altering the design of a product like that might end in tears.

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post #3577 of 3577 Old Today, 07:35 PM
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My comments have nothing to do with hearing versus feeling, it has to do with adding additional weight to the PR's that the manufacturer didn't account for. Are you sure the suspension is going to tolerate it OK? You can do whatever you'd like, I was just pointing out the fact altering the design of a product like that might end in tears.
It'll hardly "end in tears", it's not my "time of month" (Jk I'm a dude). Passive radiators are designed to take weight, but it's hard to say what the weight capacity is. These particular passives use bulky, stiff surrounds/suspensions, so I imagine they can take quite a bit of weight. Is there a safer way to alter tuning?
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