Budget subwoofers discussions, opinions and questions thread - Page 98 - AVS Forum
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post #2911 of 2924 Old 06-30-2014, 03:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post
I bought an NXG NX-BAS 500 for a friend (hes gonna pay me back) and am having it delivered here. Dont know if hes gonna want to open it here and test it or not but if he does I'll post some amateur impressions. It would be interesting to hear in person how it compares to my Rhythmik LV12r.
It won't compare, trust me. The NXG is good, but it's not that good.

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post #2912 of 2924 Old 07-01-2014, 06:51 PM
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Ended up getting a lightly used PB10-NSD for $300 shipped. Looking forward to getting it.
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post #2913 of 2924 Old 07-02-2014, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by JimWilson View Post
It won't compare, trust me. The NXG is good, but it's not that good.
And no one should expect it to. The Rythmik is $600 - more than double the $269 cost of the NXG and double the $300 upper boundary of this Budget Subwoofer discussion forum.
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post #2914 of 2924 Old 07-06-2014, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by JimWilson View Post
I suspect you'll be pleasantly surprised by what the SUB-1200 can do, given it's price. After you've had the opportunity to get it broken in and tuned be sure to come back and post your thoughts.
Set up and dialed in the Dayton SUB-1200. Initial impression is that it goes a little lower than the towers, but with more authority. At the low volumes I play, it will likely take a good long while to "break-in".

On some of the reviews of the SUB-1200, an issue was raised with the auto-on not working well enough or perhaps not entirely as expected. Out of curiosity, I hooked up a kill-a-watt meter to the sub and noted the following:

When turned off, drew about 2 watts at 120 volts house current
When set to auto-on, with no signal, drew about 2 watts at 120 volts house current.
When turned on with no signal, drew about 6 watts at 120 volts house current.

So, leaving it on all the time vs turning off or leaving in auto-on mode uses an extra 4 watts / hour of house current (about the same as an old style incandescent night light). 4 watts x 24 hours x 365 days = 35040 watts / year , or about 35 kilowatts. 35 kilowatts * .15 cents / Kilowatt = ~ $5.25 / year more to leave the sub on all the time vs turning it off or leaving in auto mode.
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post #2915 of 2924 Old 07-07-2014, 04:48 AM
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Originally Posted by squash42 View Post
Set up and dialed in the Dayton SUB-1200. Initial impression is that it goes a little lower than the towers, but with more authority. At the low volumes I play, it will likely take a good long while to "break-in".

On some of the reviews of the SUB-1200, an issue was raised with the auto-on not working well enough or perhaps not entirely as expected. Out of curiosity, I hooked up a kill-a-watt meter to the sub and noted the following:

When turned off, drew about 2 watts at 120 volts house current
When set to auto-on, with no signal, drew about 2 watts at 120 volts house current.
When turned on with no signal, drew about 6 watts at 120 volts house current.

So, leaving it on all the time vs turning off or leaving in auto-on mode uses an extra 4 watts / hour of house current (about the same as an old style incandescent night light). 4 watts x 24 hours x 365 days = 35040 watts / year , or about 35 kilowatts. 35 kilowatts * .15 cents / Kilowatt = ~ $5.25 / year more to leave the sub on all the time vs turning it off or leaving in auto mode.
Nice post. Thanks for the wattage info.

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post #2916 of 2924 Old 07-07-2014, 09:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squash42 View Post
Set up and dialed in the Dayton SUB-1200. Initial impression is that it goes a little lower than the towers, but with more authority. At the low volumes I play, it will likely take a good long while to "break-in".

On some of the reviews of the SUB-1200, an issue was raised with the auto-on not working well enough or perhaps not entirely as expected. Out of curiosity, I hooked up a kill-a-watt meter to the sub and noted the following:

When turned off, drew about 2 watts at 120 volts house current
When set to auto-on, with no signal, drew about 2 watts at 120 volts house current.
When turned on with no signal, drew about 6 watts at 120 volts house current.

So, leaving it on all the time vs turning off or leaving in auto-on mode uses an extra 4 watts / hour of house current (about the same as an old style incandescent night light). 4 watts x 24 hours x 365 days = 35040 watts / year , or about 35 kilowatts. 35 kilowatts * .15 cents / Kilowatt = ~ $5.25 / year more to leave the sub on all the time vs turning it off or leaving in auto mode.
That's weird. Why would it use 2 watts when it's off?
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post #2917 of 2924 Old 07-08-2014, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by rrskda View Post
That's weird. Why would it use 2 watts when it's off?
OFF really isn't off per se. When set to OFF or AUTO with no signal present, the sub status led shows red. (inactive). When set to AUTO and a signal is present or set to ON, the led switches to Green (active). The only way to fully turn it off is by unplugging it or turning it off via an external switch.
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post #2918 of 2924 Old 07-08-2014, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post
Nice post. Thanks for the wattage info.
Thanks - I'm always curious about such things. It seems to be a very efficient amp. At my "normal" playing levels, the Kill-a-watt was showing readings from around 6 - 8 watts of house current being drawn. During testing at volume levels far louder than I would ever use (Sub test MP3 from Youtube, with the SUB-1200 cabinet audibly vibrating), the amp only pulled 38 watts peak of house current.

Also, the Dayton Audio Sub-link XR modules seem to be working exactly as expected / hoped for. No dropouts or interference issues thus far.
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post #2919 of 2924 Old 07-08-2014, 09:43 AM
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I haven't read this entire thread, but what about a comparison between a single NXG 500 and dual Dayton 1200's? Cost for both setups is nearly the same, so it would seem to beg the question.
Apologies if this question has already been asked and answered.
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post #2920 of 2924 Old 07-08-2014, 02:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ck42 View Post
I haven't read this entire thread, but what about a comparison between a single NXG 500 and dual Dayton 1200's? Cost for both setups is nearly the same, so it would seem to beg the question.
Apologies if this question has already been asked and answered.

Dual Dayton's would have more total output and, if placed appropriately, enable you to smooth out some room modes.

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post #2921 of 2924 Old 07-08-2014, 04:23 PM
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That was my suspicion. Certainly, having two would allow for better dealing with room modes, as is nearly always the case with multiple subs...and it would seem intuitive that overall output would be greater. Just wondering if there was some technical reason why someone would go with a single NXG vs the dual Dayton setup - given that the price of both scenarios is about the same.
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post #2922 of 2924 Old 07-08-2014, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by ck42 View Post
That was my suspicion. Certainly, having two would allow for better dealing with room modes, as is nearly always the case with multiple subs...and it would seem intuitive that overall output would be greater. Just wondering if there was some technical reason why someone would go with a single NXG vs the dual Dayton setup - given that the price of both scenarios is about the same.
Accuracy

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post #2923 of 2924 Old 07-08-2014, 07:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post
Accuracy
+1

I found the Dayton was surprisingly good for the money, but to me the NXG was better. The additional $$ does buy extra output in certain situations, but it can also get you greater depth and precision.

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post #2924 of 2924 Old 07-08-2014, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by JimWilson View Post
+1

I found the Dayton was surprisingly good for the money, but to me the NXG was better. The additional $$ does buy extra output in certain situations, but it can also get you greater depth and precision.
Ok cool. Now we're getting somewhere. Thanks.
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