Very very weak output from Energy ESW-V10 - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 13 Old 11-12-2012, 09:54 AM - Thread Starter
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I have not used this Energy ESW-V10 for several months but still had it plugged into power bar. Yesterday I turned it on, power light was on, but its output was very weak, nearly nothing. Switched its bass cable with another working sub but the result was the same, very weak output. Could someone tell me what is wrong with it? Its amp is toasted? Your help is greatly appreciated. Thanks
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post #2 of 13 Old 11-19-2012, 08:45 PM
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Did you try the working sub in the system. Check the Volume control on the subwoofer, it could be dirty inside, check the subwoofer level on the AVR
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post #3 of 13 Old 11-20-2012, 02:55 AM
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You can use a 9 volt battery to check whether the driver is ok. Touch a connection from the '+' to one connector on the driver and the '-' to the other (using two pieces of wire). If it moves, then it is likely ok.

You can get replacement plate amps from Parts Express or OAudio in the price range $140-$260. You will likely need to do some cutting and pasting to get them to fit.

Subwoofer repairs at a local shop can cost $200-300+ and are returned with a 30-90 day warranty. If to an out-of-town repair shop, you will pay to-and-from shipping.

In the under $300 range, individuals in this forum like the BIC PL-200; under $400 the Hsu STF-2. There are a few other models that individuals consistently recommend.
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post #4 of 13 Old 11-23-2012, 07:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qguy View Post

Did you try the working sub in the system. Check the Volume control on the subwoofer, it could be dirty inside, check the subwoofer level on the AVR

Thank you for your reply and yes, I tried with another sub and that other sub worked. The sub volume control is at max and it's +15 db in my AVR.
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post #5 of 13 Old 11-23-2012, 07:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wwinkler View Post

You can use a 9 volt battery to check whether the driver is ok. Touch a connection from the '+' to one connector on the driver and the '-' to the other (using two pieces of wire). If it moves, then it is likely ok.
You can get replacement plate amps from Parts Express or OAudio in the price range $140-$260. You will likely need to do some cutting and pasting to get them to fit.
Subwoofer repairs at a local shop can cost $200-300+ and are returned with a 30-90 day warranty. If to an out-of-town repair shop, you will pay to-and-from shipping.
In the under $300 range, individuals in this forum like the BIC PL-200; under $400 the Hsu STF-2. There are a few other models that individuals consistently recommend.

Thank you for your reply. I will try that battery trick to see if the driver is still OK. I bought that sub for 460$. I don;t know if it's worth the hassle and money of repairing it.
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post #6 of 13 Old 10-08-2013, 09:14 AM
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Hi, I know this is an old post. But I am facing the same problem with my subwoofer ESW V10, the driver seems to be working as it is giving sound using the battery test and through the energy amp but the output is very low.

What was the solution for this thread!?
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post #7 of 13 Old 10-08-2013, 10:02 AM
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The gain potentiometer develops rust. Cleaning it with contact cleaner may do the trick for you.

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post #8 of 13 Old 10-08-2013, 11:41 AM
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I might try this solution but I doubt this is the problem.

The speaker was giving sound and suddenly went silent or in fact very low. It is very clean so i doubt there is rust or dust. and I did play with the potentiometer and I did hear the already low output go up and low in volume but the overall output is very very low. I am really puzzled. The driver seems ok, I tried a small amp on it barely 10 watts maybe, an the sound did go higher, so I think the problem is in the amp circuit somewhere.
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post #9 of 13 Old 10-08-2013, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
It is very clean so i doubt there is rust or dust.

You are probably looking at the outer knob that you rotate. It has a small cylindrical housing behind it. There is a small metal strip inside that housing which increase or decreases resistance to the input voltage. When dust and/or rust develops; it starts to malfunction.

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post #10 of 13 Old 10-08-2013, 12:18 PM
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Thank you. I understand you, I do know some few things about potentiometers, but I doubt this is case, I wish it is. But usually when they go bad, they scratch a little, do some minor problems, in my case, it was during a normal moderate low volume of the subwoofer, that the sub just went so weak to be almost inaudible. I will not overrule the potentiometer senario but is there anything else that might Cause this?
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post #11 of 13 Old 10-08-2013, 12:35 PM
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I will not overrule the potentiometer senario but is there anything else that might Cause this?

I had a similar problem with Klipsch Sub-12 long time back. I just used contact cleaner on the potentiometer, let it dry for good 6 hrs, and it solved the problem. Your problem may be different; but has the same symptoms as mine.

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post #12 of 13 Old 10-08-2013, 02:28 PM
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After getting your reply, I went to my multimeter put it on resistance measuring and got the amp that I kept outisde for troubleshooting. I was surprised that they have two of the legs linked together by a circuit so zero ohm and the third leg seperate.

Measuring the resistance between the third leg and the two other connected legs yielded around 1.1 ohms when the volume was zero, and around 90 kilo ohm when the volume was highest. I thought it should be the opposite but it as well means that the pot seems to be operational or am I wrong?

It is put in a way that I cannot read the written size, but due to its reflection on the aluminum back plate I think I have read 100 K A. while the other two pots for phase and frequency were B50K and measured around 53k ohm. It is strange why it is not near the 100k when I put it at max, but it could be mechanical limitation or error in the resistance. Stil it is going from 1.1 to 90k. So do i rule out pot problem?
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post #13 of 13 Old 10-09-2013, 04:57 AM
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I thought it should be the opposite but it as well means that the pot seems to be operational or am I wrong?

I also think it should be other way. The resistance should be max with the know at minimum position and the same should be min with the gain knob at max. But I never used multimeter to check mine. I just put a couple of drops inside the potentiometer, gave the gain knob hard swirls in either direction, and let it dry for over 6 hrs. After that it just started working without any trouble for 2 years till the time the bash amp completely died on me.

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