New SVS SB1000 & PB1000 Subwoofers!! - Page 28 - AVS Forum
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post #811 of 1234 Old 05-06-2013, 12:56 PM
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I see some folks on this thread who have experience and knowledge, so I thought I'd ask for your thoughts. I just upgraded my HT kit except for my sub. I have a 10" ported sub that has just under 190 watts, so it isn't pulling its weight. I also have an acoustically challenging space.

First, what I'm looking for. My current sub is boomy and mushy. With a lot of material, it sounds more like it's humming than playing distinct sounds. It is important that I get more definition. I'm no audiophile, but I expect more clarity from an upgrade. I like to listen to music, but I watch more TV and movies. As with most, both are important. I don't want muddy music and I do want punch in movies, but I think I can live without the absolute best in both cases.

I've kind of decided that I'll get a ported sub, so I'm looking for one with clarity. The PB-1000 is an attractive offering, especially with the Canadian dealer. Size is an issue with the gf, so if the advice is to move up to the PB12-NSD, I'm going to need some convincing arguments I can use biggrin.gif

Now for the space. I have a mostly open-concept where the living room opens into the dining room and kitchen, wraps around a center wall and joins back up with the living room--so an "O" shape.



The speakers are all Polk bookshelf RTiA1's (so not that big), with a CSiA6 center channel (that one is big). The SVS site recommends the PB-1000 for this, but I'm thinking the space comes into play here. By my calculations, it's over 3800 cubic feet. And it has nodes and modes that I can hear as I walk around, but that's another issue (unless you suggest two PB-1000's...). I don't need to knock the walls down, just get a little bit of punch-in-the-chest bass, and I'm wondering how good a job the PB-1000 would do in this size space. My inclination is to start with a PB-1000 and if I don't find it's enough to get a second one, instead of trying to convince my gf we need a mini-fridge sized speaker like the NSD.

While I'm rambling, any suggestions as to placement would also be welcome. Currently, my sub is in the wide opening between the living room and the dining room, which according to what I've read is about the worst place for it. I can't put it in the corner because there's a large desk there. The other options are next to the sofa listening position, as indicated in the image, with B probably being preferable (although I don't think and NDS would fit properly in either B or C).

Thanks in advance to anyone who might tackle my post.

EDIT: Changes for accuracy of my statements.

I'm no expert but that's a lot of space to fill for a sub like the pb1000. I would suggest moving up a class or two if you want to save on those return shipping costs. A pb1000 may work for your theater area itself but not with all that open space around it.

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post #812 of 1234 Old 05-06-2013, 01:18 PM
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The speakers are all Polk bookshelf RTiA1's (so not that big), with a CSiA6 center channel (that one is big). The SVS site recommends the PB-1000 for this, but I'm thinking the space comes into play here. By my calculations, it's over 3800 cubic feet. And it has nodes and modes that I can hear as I walk around, but that's another issue (unless you suggest two PB-1000's...). I don't need to knock the walls down, just get a little bit of punch-in-the-chest bass, and I'm wondering how good a job the PB-1000 would do in this size space. My inclination is to start with a PB-1000 and if I don't find it's enough to get a second one, instead of trying to convince my gf we need a mini-fridge sized speaker like the NSD.

A single PB-1000 would probably struggle in a space that size, so if you're set on that model a pair might be wiser. A single PB12-NSD would fare better, if all you want to use is one sub. I agree it's not terribly small, but I wouldn't quite say it's the size of a mini-fridge. With all the room you have I doubt it would come across as obtrusive.

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While I'm rambling, any suggestions as to placement would also be welcome. Currently, my sub is in the wide opening between the living room and the dining room, which according to what I've read is about the worst place for it. I can't put it in the corner because there's a large desk there. The other options are next to the sofa listening position, as indicated in the image, with B probably being preferable (although I don't think and NDS would fit properly in either B or C).

Since every room is essentially different there are only two good ways to ascertain what location works the best for your sub; measurement gear or just trying different locations. People can give general guidelines, but that should only be considered a starting point.


How are those RTiA1's working? Given the volume of space I wonder if they're not struggling a bit themselves, especially if you have the crossover set lower then 80Hz. They may indeed be able to handle the room, but it's probably something to keep in the back of your mind nonetheless.

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post #813 of 1234 Old 05-06-2013, 03:10 PM
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Thanks, Prime and Jim. I'm thinking that two PB-1000's might be an easier sell than one NDS, and I'd have more placement options. With regard to placement, after the 3 spots in my diagram (A, B, and C), the options kind of dwindle. A is next to my receiver, so wiring isn't a problem, and I have wiring run to the wall where B and C are. I could also place it behind the right side of the sofa. Over next to the left surround is the only other option, but it isn't wired (I'd get a wireless unit before pulling wires through the walls or running them around the room).

I wasn't expecting a best-position answer. I guess I was just looking for best practices, like should the sub be in that big opening between living room and dining room, and is right beside the sofa a good spot or a bad spot in general (leaving room acoustics aside for a moment).

I am considering some sort of room correction if the modes are too bad.

Question: If I have one sub at position A and one at position B, is there anything wrong with having them facing each other across the room (firing at each other), or is that a no-no?

Jim, I was conscious that the RTiA1's were smallish, although much bigger than the satellites I had. Towers were out--gf wasn't going to go for it, and there's no place for a LF anyway. I kinda wanted the RTiA3's in the front, but still some gf resistance--and she's usually so easy going smile.gif Really, though, they can drive me from the room before I get my receiver (Yamaha, 95 wpc 20-20kHz, 2-ch driven) near it's max (although maybe not if I'm just running 2 channels, but still loud). Not big speakers, and a medium powered receiver, but it can give me uncomfortable sound levels and still be clean. Maybe I just don't need the volumes some people need, but I can make it real loud in here.

EDIT: Crossover is typically set to 80Hz, but I sometimes reduce it to 60Hz if male voices are humming through the sub.

Perhaps one PB-1000 is all I need. I'm favoring starting with one, as opposed to the NDS. I could NEVER get gf approval for two NDS's, but I might be able to get two PB-1000's if I can tuck one away beside the sofa. I'm going to have a discussion with the gf...
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post #814 of 1234 Old 05-06-2013, 03:39 PM
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Thanks, Prime and Jim. I'm thinking that two PB-1000's might be an easier sell than one NDS, and I'd have more placement options. With regard to placement, after the 3 spots in my diagram (A, B, and C), the options kind of dwindle. A is next to my receiver, so wiring isn't a problem, and I have wiring run to the wall where B and C are. I could also place it behind the right side of the sofa. Over next to the left surround is the only other option, but it isn't wired (I'd get a wireless unit before pulling wires through the walls or running them around the room).

I wasn't expecting a best-position answer. I guess I was just looking for best practices, like should the sub be in that big opening between living room and dining room, and is right beside the sofa a good spot or a bad spot in general (leaving room acoustics aside for a moment).

I am considering some sort of room correction if the modes are too bad.

Question: If I have one sub at position A and one at position B, is there anything wrong with having them facing each other across the room (firing at each other), or is that a no-no?

Jim, I was conscious that the RTiA1's were smallish, although much bigger than the satellites I had. Towers were out--gf wasn't going to go for it, and there's no place for a LF anyway. I kinda wanted the RTiA3's in the front, but still some gf resistance--and she's usually so easy going smile.gif Really, though, they can drive me from the room before I get my receiver (Yamaha, 95 wpc 20-20kHz, 2-ch driven) near it's max (although maybe not if I'm just running 2 channels, but still loud). Not big speakers, and a medium powered receiver, but it can give me uncomfortable sound levels and still be clean. Maybe I just don't need the volumes some people need, but I can make it real loud in here.

EDIT: Crossover is typically set to 80Hz, but I sometimes reduce it to 60Hz if male voices are humming through the sub.

Perhaps one PB-1000 is all I need. I'm favoring starting with one, as opposed to the NDS. I could NEVER get gf approval for two NDS's, but I might be able to get two PB-1000's if I can tuck one away beside the sofa. I'm going to have a discussion with the gf...

If you are totally against a larger sub, you can certainly try 2 pb1000's. Try one if you like but I fear it may get swallowed up by that space and you won't be very happy with the bottom end you're getting.

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post #815 of 1234 Old 05-06-2013, 03:50 PM
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I wasn't expecting a best-position answer. I guess I was just looking for best practices, like should the sub be in that big opening between living room and dining room, and is right beside the sofa a good spot or a bad spot in general (leaving room acoustics aside for a moment).

Based solely upon the diagram A doesn't look like a bad spot; it's positioned close to your mains and aimed right at the seating positions. That would be the first placed I tried for a sub. B seems like the worst of them. Having the sub sitting right next to you pointing away like that strikes me as the least desirable.

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I am considering some sort of room correction if the modes are too bad.

You should always use room correction, even if you believe there aren't any significant issues that need to be addressed.

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Jim, I was conscious that the RTiA1's were smallish, although much bigger than the satellites I had. Towers were out--gf wasn't going to go for it, and there's no place for a LF anyway. I kinda wanted the RTiA3's in the front, but still some gf resistance--and she's usually so easy going smile.gif Really, though, they can drive me from the room before I get my receiver (Yamaha, 95 wpc 20-20kHz, 2-ch driven) near it's max (although maybe not if I'm just running 2 channels, but still loud). Not big speakers, and a medium powered receiver, but it can give me uncomfortable sound levels and still be clean. Maybe I just don't need the volumes some people need, but I can make it real loud in here.

I only mentioned that because if they're being pushed, and straining because of it, the bass might actually sound worse. The opposite is true as well; a struggling subwoofer will negatively affect the rest of the sound. You'd be surprised how many people exclaim "everything sounds so much better!" when they upgrade just their subwoofer. Even though it's only playing the lowest frequencies the net effect is that the overall sound quality improves. To me those seem like relatively small speakers for such a large space, but that's speculation on my part.

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EDIT: Crossover is typically set to 80Hz, but I sometimes reduce it to 60Hz if male voices are humming through the sub.

Once you have a good sub that problem should be eliminated, provided it's not being over-driven to compensate for being undersized that is. Quality subs can play cleanly to 80Hz with no problem, thereby eliminating that 'chesty' sound one often hears with lesser quality units.

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post #816 of 1234 Old 05-06-2013, 04:18 PM
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Thanks again, guys. Jim, I think my receiver would clip or otherwise hit its limit before it overpowers the RTIA1's (at least from a spec standpoint, if not a listening standpoint). If I'm running 5 channels, even near full power they're probably only getting about half of their rated power. I know my system is a modest one, but it serves me well. And it definitely highlights the weaknesses of my old sub.

My space doesn't feel all that big as I'm sitting in it, but I guess the math doesn't lie. I'm going to generously subtract a few hundred cubic feet for furniture, kitchen cupboards, and the refrigerator wink.gif

Jim, I'm hoping a better sub will integrate more smoothly with the speakers. I can hear a nice crisp top end to the bass notes coming from the Polks, but my sub finishes out the bottom with not much distinction at all. This can happen even at very moderate listening levels. This is one of the major improvements I want to get--for the clarity to continue down into the lower frequencies instead of a vague whoomp whoomp sound or a hum to go along with male voices.

I have cardboard and a knife with which I'll build some boxes to size up the PB-1000 and the NDS. Yup, that's the point I'm at.
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post #817 of 1234 Old 05-06-2013, 06:02 PM
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Well I may have gotten gf approval for a PB12-NSD (not an NDS, as I referred to it a few times above). It does limit my placement options to either next to the RF or behind the sofa firing to the left (not sure if that's a good spot or not).

Now I just have to decide whether I need it. If my little Polks and my receiver hit their limit before the sub even gets warmed up, maybe I could do with less. I could also put the price difference between the PB-1000 and the NSD toward room correction gear. I shall ponder it for a while.
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post #818 of 1234 Old 05-06-2013, 07:59 PM
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Well I may have gotten gf approval for a PB12-NSD (not an NDS, as I referred to it a few times above). It does limit my placement options to either next to the RF or behind the sofa firing to the left (not sure if that's a good spot or not).

Now I just have to decide whether I need it. If my little Polks and my receiver hit their limit before the sub even gets warmed up, maybe I could do with less. I could also put the price difference between the PB-1000 and the NSD toward room correction gear. I shall ponder it for a while.

The PB12-NSD definitely won't overpower your speakers. If you have a larger space then the speakers can effectively handle - which may be the case for you - that can be mitigated to a certain extent by pointing them directly at the listeners. While they may come across as a bit 'thin' due to that, you'll still achieve decent sound. A subwoofer, on the other hand, works differently. It "sees" all the space and will try to pressure it. Placement and aim can minimize that phenomenon somewhat, but benefits occur to a lesser degree then with speakers. Additionally, large transient response shifts - like the LFE that occurs in most of todays movies - requires sufficient 'headroom', which loosely translates into extra capacity in reserve. Without that those movie effects will bottom out the sub, or make it run up against it's limiter, if you don't have enough capacity to satisfy the demand.

All AV receivers have the ability to adjust distance and output for the various channels, which means you can balance things to accommodate your specific situation. If the AVR you own has some type of room correction - like Audyssey - then it gets even better, because that will do a lot of the heavy lifting for you.

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post #819 of 1234 Old 05-06-2013, 08:22 PM
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Well I may have gotten gf approval for a PB12-NSD (not an NDS, as I referred to it a few times above). It does limit my placement options to either next to the RF or behind the sofa firing to the left (not sure if that's a good spot or not).

Now I just have to decide whether I need it. If my little Polks and my receiver hit their limit before the sub even gets warmed up, maybe I could do with less. I could also put the price difference between the PB-1000 and the NSD toward room correction gear. I shall ponder it for a while.

My room is approximately 400 cubic feet smaller than yours. I started off with one PB-1000 then I went to two PB-1000s and then upgraded to two PB12-NSDs. I recommend going with one PB12-NSD and adding another down the line if necessary.
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post #820 of 1234 Old 05-06-2013, 09:45 PM
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Just wanted to drop in and say thanks to Jim, Bond 007 and TeDeV for the help in choosing the pb-1000. Very pleased. It sounds accurate and clean even to untrained ears. I have mostly owned cheaper, boomy subs and am glad for the upgrade. I am still tweaking the onkyo tx-sr608. This entry level receiver only provides Audyssey 2eq. Curious if anyone thinks that receiver with a newer version of audyssey would help significantly in calibrating my theater room and getting the most out of the sub and other speakers. Also wondered what is recommended for the LFE crossover? My other 7 speakers are AAS55. Thanks
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post #821 of 1234 Old 05-07-2013, 12:22 AM
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Originally Posted by ThinkRationally View Post

Well I may have gotten gf approval for a PB12-NSD (not an NDS, as I referred to it a few times above). It does limit my placement options to either next to the RF or behind the sofa firing to the left (not sure if that's a good spot or not).

Now I just have to decide whether I need it. If my little Polks and my receiver hit their limit before the sub even gets warmed up, maybe I could do with less. I could also put the price difference between the PB-1000 and the NSD toward room correction gear. I shall ponder it for a while.

You should be okay since she's only your gf & not your wife. wink.gif

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post #822 of 1234 Old 05-07-2013, 05:58 AM
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Just wanted to drop in and say thanks to Jim, Bond 007 and TeDeV for the help in choosing the pb-1000. Very pleased. It sounds accurate and clean even to untrained ears. I have mostly owned cheaper, boomy subs and am glad for the upgrade.

You're welcome. Glad it worked out for you.

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I am still tweaking the onkyo tx-sr608. This entry level receiver only provides Audyssey 2eq. Curious if anyone thinks that receiver with a newer version of audyssey would help significantly in calibrating my theater room and getting the most out of the sub and other speakers.

No one can really say if the differences would be 'significant', because each room is unique, but it's probably not a stretch to say there would be some benefits because all rooms have issues. I believe you'd need at least MultEQ XT in order to get subwoofer filters, so if you opt for a new receiver look for that (MultEQ XT32).

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Also wondered what is recommended for the LFE crossover? My other 7 speakers are AAS55. Thanks

If you're referring to the low pass filter for the LFE channel set it at 120Hz, which should be the max setting. The .1 channel does contain program material that high, so in order to ensure you hear everything on the soundtrack that's what most of us set it for.

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post #823 of 1234 Old 05-08-2013, 05:30 AM
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Jim,
I would like learn more about sound. I know that is a general question. However, I am interested now in learning the jargon and purchasing better equipment and tools to enhance my system. Do you any resources you could point me to?
Thanks
Adam
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post #824 of 1234 Old 05-08-2013, 07:16 AM
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I would like learn more about sound. I know that is a general question. However, I am interested now in learning the jargon and purchasing better equipment and tools to enhance my system. Do you any resources you could point me to?

The blu-ray.com forum actually has some pretty decent reference material, so you should probably spend some time looking at what they have to offer. A few links in particular you might want to consider are the ones associated to general frequency response and speakers. They also have one dedicated to subwoofers, as well as bass management. It's a lot to read, but it might be worth the time if you want to get a better handle on some of the terms and technology.

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post #825 of 1234 Old 05-09-2013, 11:18 PM
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How long does it take for the PB-1000 to break in? It sounds kinda boomy and muddy up voices in a movie, just got it today so I'm hoping it'll sound better.
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post #826 of 1234 Old 05-10-2013, 01:44 AM
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Subs sound a ton better, think my avr did bad on cross overs, voices are good and bass sounds a lot better, also it looks a lot nicer in person than in the photos, like the grill in the photos looks like its faded black but in person it's black, not too much of a fan of the light on the front.
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post #827 of 1234 Old 05-10-2013, 02:53 AM
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Ryder you need at least 10 hours, but don't expect that huge change. from what i read you solved it...

In other news, i might be lucky and order a Minidsp calibration mic soon, so that i can figure out what is going on in my room.
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post #828 of 1234 Old 05-10-2013, 06:45 AM
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I have to be the most indecisive person in these forums. I have bounced around from HSU to SVS to PSA and back to SVS again for my new basement media room build.

My excuse is that this is part of a major basement reno project that also involves an in-law suite, it has been in the planning stages since January and should be complete by the end of this month. Needless to say I've had enough time to REALLY overthink my project and in particular my sub choice. I like to measure "10x and cut once" so to speak and want to get this purchase right.

I was pretty much set on a pair of PB-1000's for my 27' x 6'11" x 14' room with the following components:

Oppo 103
Yamaha RXV667
Energy CF-50's, CC-10, CR-10 (side surround Bipoles/Dipoles), CB-20 (rear surround, direct radiating)

BUT, the drywall is done along with the laminate flooring and there is a ton of echoing and ringing in the space which I guess means I have a very "live" room at the moment... I spent some time moving around the room clapping and saying "back", (my 4 year old daughter helped me even though she thought I had lost my mind:p). I guess furniture and a few rugs will help but I'm concerned about the room which has me questioning what I should do with my budget.

I've settled on SVS because I can pick up a sub from the local distributer for the same price it retails for in the US... the other ID options are much more expensive in Canada than the US.

Here are my questions:

1) Will a ported sub vs a sealed sub make the echoing issues worse in a live room?

2) I typically listen at -20, well short of reference, does this have an impact on the amount of echoing? (should I worry about it less because I'm not going to play it loud?)

3) What is the best value DSP for a two sub system like mine? (I know that the YPAO in my receiver only equalizes down to 65Hz or so.)

4) Music is really important to me and I still have a nagging feeling that the PB-1000 may disappoint me in that regard (or at least leave me pondering "what if?"), especially since I want a bit of feel for HT but I don't think I need as much feel as most of the posters on this site.

5) At the moment I have strong interest in the PB-1000, SB-1000, and SB-12NSD which I can get for $499, $499, and $649 respectively from the Canadian distributor. I'm reasonably certain I would start with one of these subs and add a second very shortly thereafter depending on how I feel about the output. I'd rather start with one and go from there but my budget for subwoofers and DSP/Equalizer is $1500 all in (funny that when I started researching I was going to get a $400 energy sub from Best Buy and I did not know what an Antimode was biggrin.gif).

Thanks!!!
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post #829 of 1234 Old 05-10-2013, 12:05 PM
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Just received my PB-1000 yesterday and it already sounds great. But it took a little tweaking. I live in a condo with carpeted cement floors and cement walls. Initially hooking up the sub and setting it on the floor ( for lack of any better option) it sounded awful. So I went out and bought a 12x16x1.5" bamboo cutting board and set the sub on top of that to get it off the floor. The difference to my ears is night and day. It now sounds like I imagined it would. Sitting on the floor just killed the sound. I can't believe the bamboo so thoroughly decoupled the sub from the floor but that sure seems to be the case.

Some LOTR and Terminator:Salvation in queue for tonight.
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post #830 of 1234 Old 05-10-2013, 01:04 PM
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BUT, the drywall is done along with the laminate flooring and there is a ton of echoing and ringing in the space which I guess means I have a very "live" room at the moment ... I guess furniture and a few rugs will help ...
Yes, they will. My ~15' x 30' x 7.5' room also was a lot more unruly until I got my chairs and area rug into it. As it currently stands, the only "live-ness" that might be worth worrying about is from the speakers, not the subs...but since it doesn't bother me, it's not worth worrying about. smile.gif

Your room is just over 2,600 cu.ft. IMO, dual PB-1000s will offer tremendous performance in that space. (A single PB10-NSD in my space was surprisingly impressive.)
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post #831 of 1234 Old 05-11-2013, 02:28 AM
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I agree, 2 x pb1000s and antimode 8033 and you'll be in business. You can buy just one sub now, but you will definitely end up getting the second so I would just bite the bullet and do it right. That second sub gives you so much in terms of smooth room-wide bass - no one ever says getting more subs was a bad decision.

Behringer B212XL (x3), Axiom QS8 (x2), SVS PC12 NSD, PB1000 (x2) . Onkyo TX-NR818. Mini DSP 2x4. Sony BDP-S370. Samsung PS50B650 . Epson 8350 Projector, Grandview pulldown 92" screen, Aura Bass Shakers (x3).
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post #832 of 1234 Old 05-14-2013, 02:59 PM
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Anti-mode corrects only the peaks. why not get a minidsp which is cheaper and also fixes the Dips and Peaks?
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post #833 of 1234 Old 05-15-2013, 04:30 AM
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Thanks for the advice (eljaycanuck, runcliffyrun, & TeDeV)

Regarding the 8033, I have to admit I'm a bit intimidated by the prospect of learning to use REW (not to mention the costs of a mic and soundcard etc.), I would love to spend a few week-ends learning and taking measurements but my current work/life balance (especially my 4 and 6 year old) preclude me from having the time to do it right and enjoy it. A few months ago when I started my research I figured I'd just buy a sub from best buy, stick it in the corner, run YPAO and be done with it. Now, I regret not having done more research on the AVR purchase as I would have probably bought a unit with Audessey.

I will start by picking up a single PB-1000, and will do a sub crawl. I've run enough in wall subwoofer cables that I can pretty much place a sub (or two) just about anywhere in the room and this may prove to be enough (a few posters with nearly 4000 cubic feet have commented that one PB-1000 is enough for them, of course others would have a couple ultras in the same room). When the upgraditis sets in I'll either pick up another PB-1000 or an 8033 or miniDSP.
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post #834 of 1234 Old 05-15-2013, 04:35 AM
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Congrats! cool.gif

Looking forward to your thoughts on the PB-1000. smile.gif
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post #835 of 1234 Old 05-15-2013, 04:47 AM
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I will post my thoughts as soon as the room is done... probably another month before everything is up and running. I'm hoping to have everything done before the Stanley Cup finals.
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post #836 of 1234 Old 05-15-2013, 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by GTA Beancounter View Post

Regarding the 8033, I have to admit I'm a bit intimidated by the prospect of learning to use REW (not to mention the costs of a mic and soundcard etc.), I would love to spend a few week-ends learning and taking measurements but my current work/life balance (especially my 4 and 6 year old) preclude me from having the time to do it right and enjoy it.

REW does present a bit of a challenge, but there are alternatives. Dayton has the Omnimic, which is more of a plug-n-play solution. XTZ has the Room Analyzer Pro and Room Analyzer which are like the Omnimic, in as much as they are complete systems, but they're even a little easier to master. If the XTZ interests you let me know; I have a non-Pro version I can sell you for a very good price.

Regarding tuning... properly adjusting to the best of your ability is all you need to be concerned with. Can you spend countless hours getting the last bit 'just right'? Certainly, but for a lot of people that's not worth the effort - the first 90% generally takes 50% of your time, with the last 10% taking the remainder. That's an equation of diminishing returns for some. The more you read these forums the more of a obsessive fanatic you become, so go have fun with your kids. tongue.gif
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post #837 of 1234 Old 05-15-2013, 11:51 AM
 
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Originally Posted by GTA Beancounter View Post

Regarding the 8033, I have to admit I'm a bit intimidated by the prospect of learning to use REW...

In the beginning, yes, REW is very frustrating (vexing) but once the basic interface is understood, it's all peaches, cream and Splenda. I highly encourage taking the time during those down evenings when the little ones are in bed and there's nothing but commercial garbage on the flat screen to download and learn how to operate and get along with REW.

Quote:
When the upgraditis sets in I'll either pick up another PB-1000 or an 8033 or miniDSP.

I highly encourage going with measuring gear before adding more subwoofers so you can physically see how the sub you do have is interacting with your room's acoustics.

We have an 8033S II and now that we have Audyssey, MultEQ XT and an 8033S II, for the amount of effort put forth to learn and understand, including time spent playing with measured results, I would recommend trying a miniDSP before going with anything else. And after getting a good handle on your room's acoustics, then add a second, third or fourth subwoofer to your bass reproduction collection.

Currently, despite having both Anti-mode and MultEQ XT (auto-calibration products) there are better ways and now my focus has turned to the miniDSP as I explore alternative subwoofer settings from that of the status quo.
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post #838 of 1234 Old 05-15-2013, 12:02 PM
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The more you read these forums the more of a obsessive fanatic you become ...
It definitely happens, but it doesn't have to be that way. My two buddies and I did our sub crawls and used our SPL meters and Audyssey to set up our systems, and we got good results. Then we upgraded our subs and did it all over again. Then one of the guys bought an Omnimic and we tweaked our systems a bit.

And that was it. Now all we do is enjoy our systems. A lot. biggrin.gif

(And the Omnimic - which I bought off my buddy - sits in my basement, figuratively gathering dust.)
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Originally Posted by BeeMan458 View Post

In the beginning, yes, REW is very frustrating (vexing) but once the basic interface is understood, it's all peaches, cream and Splenda. I highly encourage taking the time during those down evenings when the little ones are in bed and there's nothing but commercial garbage on the flat screen to download and learn how to operate and get along with REW.
I highly encourage going with measuring gear before adding more subwoofers so you can physically see how the sub you do have is interacting with your room's acoustics.

We have an 8033S II and now that we have Audyssey, MultEQ XT and an 8033S II, for the amount of effort put forth to learn and understand, including time spent playing with measured results, I would recommend trying a miniDSP before going with anything else. And after getting a good handle on your room's acoustics, then add a second, third or fourth subwoofer to your bass reproduction collection.

Currently, despite having both Anti-mode and MultEQ XT (auto-calibration products) there are better ways and now my focus has turned to the miniDSP as I explore alternative subwoofer settings from that of the status quo.

My SVS sub is out for delivery as I sit at work, but I'm hoping I can pick it up at the depot tonight. I've been looking into the miniDSP and REW. There seems to be a microphone (UMIK?) you can get to work with REW without a pricey external sound card (although the forums are talking about some problems with a batch of the mics). I'm seriously thinking of getting the combo of miniDSP and the mic and seeing what I can accomplish. I do find, though, that locating a nice clear how-to isn't as easy as it should be. There are articles, but I haven't found one yet that is nice and clear and answers all of my questions. I have been wading through forums on the subject, but that is tedious at best.

Nevertheless, this is the direction I'm leaning right now. The mic and miniDSP together are about $200US (depending on what miniDSP you get), and REW is no cost. I may want to throw it all at the wall before I get it figured out, but the price point is hard to beat.
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Originally Posted by eljaycanuck View Post

It definitely happens, but it doesn't have to be that way. My two buddies and I did our sub crawls and used our SPL meters and Audyssey to set up our systems, and we got good results. Then we upgraded our subs and did it all over again. Then one of the guys bought an Omnimic and we tweaked our systems a bit.

And that was it. Now all we do is enjoy our systems. A lot. biggrin.gif

(And the Omnimic - which I bought off my buddy - sits in my basement, figuratively gathering dust.)

And how much of the above would you and your buddies have done.........if you hadn't come here?
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Reply Subwoofers, Bass, and Transducers

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