Definitive Technology Powerfield 1800 setup and connections help - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 15 Old 12-06-2012, 07:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi all,

I just found a near mint Definitive Technology Powerfield 1800 on the cheap! It's an older unit with a 500 watt amp and an 18" sub. I am having trouble finding a User Manual for this, so if somebody can help me track one down or provide some insight, i would appreicate it.

On the back it has the following:

High Pass Crossover button: Pushed in is 50HZ and out is 100HZ (What should I set this to?)
Gain knob
Variable Low Pass Crossover: Adjustable knob between 50 and 100 (What should I set this to?)
Variable Phase Alignment: Adjustable knob between 0 and 180 (I usually keep this at 0)

There is also Low Level RCA input and output jacks: The question here I have with the inputs is should I have a sub cable going into only one of the inputs (L or R) or should I connect up the Y-adapter into each? This makes a difference on some subs as one port can be dedicated to LFE.

My old Klipsch RW-12D had a crossover bypass. I currently have the crossover setup done in my Parasound 7100 for digital coax/optical signals for Xbox360 and Directv. I have a Pioneer 05FD Blu-ray player connected to my preamp via analog and have the crossover setup there. So essentially, I want to make sure I avoid double filtering with the Def Tech. This doesn't have crossover bypass.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Jason
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post #2 of 15 Old 12-06-2012, 09:46 PM
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You might find some useful information here.....

http://www.audioreview.com/cat/speakers/subwoofers/definitive-technology/powerfield-1800/prd_119412_2741crx.aspx

Read the reviews, they can tell you a lot about the sub.

vardo
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post #3 of 15 Old 12-06-2012, 11:16 PM - Thread Starter
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So far it is night and day compared to my former Klipsch RW-12D. It was a good sub, but couldn't get anywhere close to as low as the DT. The DT is unbelievable for movies. An older sub, but a rock solid match with my system. I've checked that thread that you mentioned, but it doesn't give many specifics.

Hoping there are some DT users that will chime in.

Thanks,
Jason
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post #4 of 15 Old 12-10-2012, 11:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yoeddy1 View Post

Hi all,
I just found a near mint Definitive Technology Powerfield 1800 on the cheap! It's an older unit with a 500 watt amp and an 18" sub. I am having trouble finding a User Manual for this, so if somebody can help me track one down or provide some insight, i would appreicate it.
On the back it has the following:
High Pass Crossover button: Pushed in is 50HZ and out is 100HZ (What should I set this to?)
Gain knob
Variable Low Pass Crossover: Adjustable knob between 50 and 100 (What should I set this to?)
Variable Phase Alignment: Adjustable knob between 0 and 180 (I usually keep this at 0)
There is also Low Level RCA input and output jacks: The question here I have with the inputs is should I have a sub cable going into only one of the inputs (L or R) or should I connect up the Y-adapter into each? This makes a difference on some subs as one port can be dedicated to LFE.
My old Klipsch RW-12D had a crossover bypass. I currently have the crossover setup done in my Parasound 7100 for digital coax/optical signals for Xbox360 and Directv. I have a Pioneer 05FD Blu-ray player connected to my preamp via analog and have the crossover setup there. So essentially, I want to make sure I avoid double filtering with the Def Tech. This doesn't have crossover bypass.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Jason

Still need the manual?
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post #5 of 15 Old 12-10-2012, 11:56 PM
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I have 2 of these I bought back 18 years ago. I have used them everyday since. I am replacing the woofers with SI 18's because of a damaged on, so they will play for a while longer. I have the manuals and the actual advertisment literature. I will post it here if you want.

Good luck,

Robert
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post #6 of 15 Old 01-13-2013, 05:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertcharles View Post

Still need the manual?

I'd like to see the manual. I bought my PF1800 brand new 17 or 18 years ago. I think I paid $1700 for it. It's worked perfectly all these years, but I lost the manual a long time ago.
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post #7 of 15 Old 01-13-2013, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dahur View Post

I'd like to see the manual. I bought my PF1800 brand new 17 or 18 years ago. I think I paid $1700 for it. It's worked perfectly all these years, but I lost the manual a long time ago.


I will scan it later tonight


Keep cranking,

Robert
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post #8 of 15 Old 01-13-2013, 11:33 PM
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[IMG ALT=""]Here is what I have. Hope this is helpful. Keep cranking, Robert
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post #9 of 15 Old 01-14-2013, 01:12 AM
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post #10 of 15 Old 01-27-2013, 05:35 PM
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Thanks so much for trying, but they turned out too small. I saved them to my desktop, and when I try to expand them, they pixel out on me.
Any chance you could e-mail them to me..?

If so, I can PM you my e-mail address.

Thanks,
Dan
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post #11 of 15 Old 01-28-2013, 05:39 PM
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Curious if you guys feel these subs are still competitive with the units from today. I have a PF1500 paired with NHT VT-2. The more time you spend on these boards the more time you contemplate upgrades. But I'm not really sure it would be all that much. Thinking about either upgrading subs, mains, or processor. I have an Onkyo 3700 and all runs fine. Just wondering.

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post #12 of 15 Old 01-28-2013, 09:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffg8 View Post

Curious if you guys feel these subs are still competitive with the units from today. I have a PF1500 paired with NHT VT-2. The more time you spend on these boards the more time you contemplate upgrades. But I'm not really sure it would be all that much. Thinking about either upgrading subs, mains, or processor. I have an Onkyo 3700 and all runs fine. Just wondering.

I have 2 PF 1800's and they are nice but nothing compared to the long throw drivers of today. The drivers are basically a PA speaker with a Foam rubber surround. Not a whole lot of xmax. My LMS cabinets are a lot bigger, but they could have been a lot smaller and would literally destroy the performance of my PF 1800 in depth, output, distortion and overall response.. Now, it takes more power to drive some of the newer speakers, but the new Stereo Integrity seems to be on par with the wattage of the Def Tec.

If you are happy with your system, I would only upgrade to something that is way more intense as opposed to a lateral movement of one thing to another. For example, you might consider moving up to two 18 inch SI drivers in separate cabs to allow for multiple placement choices. That would be double the drivers, larger drivers and long throw woofers at multiple locations. Then, if the bug bites harder, you could just add a couple more for even more output- all at about the cost of the PF 1500 20 years ago.


Keep cranking,

Robert
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post #13 of 15 Old 11-30-2016, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertcharles View Post
Here is what I have. Hope this is helpful. Keep cranking, Robert

Thanks for posting these.

Your manual is missing some pages so I scanned mine (which appears to be a slightly different vintage) and posted the PDF here.

Also posted the brochure PDF here.

-Shimon
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post #14 of 15 Old 11-30-2016, 10:38 AM
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I have a question about the "High Pass Filter". On page 10 of the manual it says that this function only works using the low level inputs. Isn't that wrong? Shouldn't it only work using the high level (speaker) inputs? If you are using high level inputs, the full frequency is coming in so the high pass filter button is needed so the sub sends out frequencies only above 50 or 100Hz to the speakers. With low level inputs, the sub should be receiving a signal from the receiver that is only LFE while the receiver is sending separate signals to the speakers. Or am I wrong in my thought process?

-Shimon
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post #15 of 15 Old 01-22-2017, 01:58 PM
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With low level inputs, the sub should be receiving a signal from the receiver that is only LFE while the receiver is sending separate signals to the speakers. Or am I wrong in my thought process?
This is a pretty old sub... you can see that in regards to dedicated sub-outs on a receiver, it only refers to Dolby ProLogic. So this subwoofer pre-dates LFE. The normal use case back then was for the subwoofer to receive a full spectrum signal through the low level inputs, not just LFE, so that's why they use the High Pass Filter there.

I've had one of these for years. Love it. Got a new AVR for the first time in 13 years (I finally have HDMI!) and thought I'd try moving the sub. So I was looking for the manual. Found it here. Thanks guys!
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