Originally Posted by popalock
You have 8 months to learn all of that! I'm driving now, so i'm going to try to hit all of your points above best I can. First, your finished product may not look as polished, but will perform in line with what many many others have experienced. Meaning, a 4ft^3ish sealed box + SI 18" sub = the goods.
My take away from the debate on the Master bass thread... Bottom-line: If you limit yourself to the physical footprint of the S2, you will be hard pressed to achieve the same performance for the same price. In fact I believe there are only one or two drivers (off the shelf) in the world that would give you a response worth a damn using such a small amount of air volume. The LMS-U is the only one I can think of ATM.
That said, increase your footprint tollerance and it opens more (cheaper) alternatives.
One other thing that I love about DIY is that it forces you to learn about things that even 95% of other AVS'ers don't take the time to learn about. If you went DIY, when it was all said and done all of those guys that were in your shoes now would be calling you up to calibrate their systems using your fancy measurement gear and DSP's... I was in your shoes about this time last year.
I wanted the ultimate, so I went DIY. FYI. It would take at least 4 S2's to come close to what I have now.
I did build a small enclosure for a Boston SPG 555 1000watt sub for my truck before. I took it to a friends house who is a carpenter and he beveled all the edges, looked nice!
So is it fair to say that two Stereo Integrity 18's is some what equivalent to an LMS 5400 or the 18 driver Jeff uses? For example if I built two same style cabinets as the cap S2 with 4 SI subs would that be comparable to one Cap S2? Even though I don't make tons of money I am still the kind of person who will spend more for quality.
So we know the sealed caps will play flat into the single digits. (This is really going to expose my knowledge level) that is because of the amp's ability to output power at low levels, the sealed enclosure, and the dsp tune? Also the excursion ability, which leads to my next question.
A driver can only have so much excursion. At ULF frequencies we need lots of excursion capability and serious amp power. So every driver is really limited to thier excursion ability in relation to playing flat into single digits correct? For example, once with my HSU 15 I played the pod emergence scene. I bumped it like 6db. I briefly heard it bottom out lightly and backed off the volume. Now that 15H driver can only play so low with its excursion correct? If we gave it more amp power it would have not been good. (I think it has like 1400 watt short term burst available on the15H).
As you probably can tell there is a streak in me that you guys have. Even if I went JTR subs I would still end up building at least a dual SI 18 cab for the sake of fun, learning, and satisfaction.
In the DIY world what is the selection of drivers available? Can we use any sub driver available? Car audio, pa, whatever?
I do like the smaller footprint idea considering, like I have mentioned, that I will be living at a rental for awhile after the fiancé and I get married. We have had discussions about where we want to live permantley and the possibility of moving. Which would mean another rental until we buy. But I am open to a bigger footprint but not too big. I would make dual OS's happen if I wanted to as far as a barameter for space tolerance.
. But I really do like the thought of the S2 footprint. That all the bass I would ever need at any level would be in the form of about 16.25x21
Is there a thread for DSP's that is comparable to something like REW? Where you can learn how to use them, etc.
And lastly thanks for all of everyone's input. I'm sure it's enjoyable to participate in these forums for you but I do value the shared knowledge personally!