JBL Northridge E250P making popping sounds..... - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 8 Old 12-10-2012, 01:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Hello. This problem has been happening for awhile. When i play games or watch movies, after a while my sub woofer starts to make popping sounds and other little noises. When it does the popping, the light blinks between Red and Green. I have it hooked up to my receiver via a RCA cable I had laying around. Is it because I am using those cables? I am looking for a direction to start going into to resolve this . Thank you.
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post #2 of 8 Old 12-10-2012, 02:01 PM
 
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you might be pushing the sub to hard. i have the same sub and no issues at all. try turning down the gain volume.
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post #3 of 8 Old 12-10-2012, 02:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Trying a set of component cables that are shielded. Hoping that was the issue.
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post #4 of 8 Old 12-10-2012, 08:01 PM - Thread Starter
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well the cables worked for a few hours and then it started doing the popping and rattling again. I have the volume on the sub itself a little over half. Surely that's not over working it is it?
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post #5 of 8 Old 12-10-2012, 08:13 PM
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Perhaps a bad amp that starts acting up once it gets warm. Its not the cable or the volume or it would act up all the time.

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post #6 of 8 Old 12-10-2012, 08:20 PM - Thread Starter
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It usually starts doing it a half hour or hour after I start watching a movie or playing something.
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post #7 of 8 Old 12-11-2012, 06:19 AM
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The popping could be due to a failing electrolytic capacitor (which can fail with heat and time - some capacitors may not be made as well as others). One of my subwoofers gradually got worse in that the intervals between the pops grew shorter and shorter. I replaced the amp with a Parts Express 500w BASH plate amp.
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post #8 of 8 Old Today, 01:11 PM
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Lightbulb Fixed - Capacitor #37

After a lot of research, I eventually opened up the sub and removed the circuit board. 3 wires connect the amp to the speaker. I took a picture to be sure I remembered how to put it back together. On inspection, it was pretty obvious that C37 was fried. It is a 6.8uF non-polarized capacitor (non-polarized means you don't have to worry about which end is which). I was grateful that it was not near any transistors or integrated circuits so I would not have to worry about a heat sink. The cap de-soldered very easily, but I needed an exacto knife to cut it free of some goo. No problem.

I found the replacement part on Amazon. It was pinned axially, not radially, meaning the leads were on opposite sides instead of on the same side as the original part was. No problem. Axial caps are made so that the leads can be bent to reach all the way around. Once I had the leads pointing in the same direction I cleaned up the holes in the circuit board a little better and removed the char marks from the original part blowing out. I soldered in the cap, reattached the wires to the speaker, and screwed the board back into the sub. Plugged it in, said a little prayer, and turned it on.

It worked perfectly. The sub starts "on" but turns itself back off when there is no signal for a few minutes. That "greeeeep" noise is even a little shorter. :-)
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