Need help with basic, but GOOD questions about Subs. - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 7 Old 01-13-2013, 01:54 PM - Thread Starter
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#1 - 'Y' ADAPTER: if my receiver has a single (RCA) 'sub-out'..... and i have been running a single cable to my sub's 'L' ....... will it make a big or even noticeable difference in SOUND by using a "Y" adapter to use both the 'L' and 'R' inputs on my sub? or was the 'R' on my sub ONLY meant for a separate cable with a receiver that has an 'L+R' OUT? is this cheating that will actually accomplish something? or just make me feel better thinking it is set up right and only imagine better sound?

#2 - 'PHASE': on the back there is a "phase" switch, please tell me what both "normal" and "reverse" is supposed to be/do/sound like/or it's effect? not sure where it should be.

#3 - 'LFE': my receiver has audio options/configurations, one of which is "LFE", with the pre-set options of: off, -0, -5, -10, -15, and -20. where should it be? what are the benefits (or results from) having it set on "off" or "-0" or "-20"?

#4 - 'X-OVER: my sub has a dial for cross over 40Hz-140Hz. (my bookshelves (rated to) go down to 50Hz) but my receiver's options for Xover are pre-set for (in Hz): 50, 80, 100, 150, 200. is it safe to say higher the #, the more effective my polks will be as a midrange/tweeter? or should it be set at 50Hz where the Polks 'fall off'? the dial on my sub is smooth and does NOT click at each Hz, so what if i am not 'exactly on' the 80Hz and my receiver IS set EXACTLY on 80Hz? when i adjust the dial (while the sub is running) below and above 80Hz, i do not hear a difference. (or it does not go off when i go below the 80Hz and then kick back in when i adjust it back to 80 - like i think it should be doing.)

i have:
Pioneer elite VSX-32 - receiver
Yamaha YST-SW315 - sub-woofer
(6) Polk audio RTi4 - bookshelves
1 BIC America FH6-LCR center (on the way)

(i use the $#!T out of my (built in) EQ, and i prefer my bass as rich and deep as possible in regards to having a setting in one extreme or the other.)
( I Thank all of you in advance for you help. THANK YOU!)
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post #2 of 7 Old 01-13-2013, 06:16 PM
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First, your avr has a bass management system. This is will help setup your system for the best performance. Using a Y adaptor on the sub may increase your sub output by 3-6 db. Most new movies are master correctly. Pioneer recommends setting the LFE to 0. If the bass is to much, then you can set it to -5 or -10 for example. Usually with one sub and using your avr, set the phase to 0. The avr will match the sub and speaker phase for you. The sub xo should be turned all the way up. This is to allow the .1 or LFE's to be fully appreciated. The .1 channel is a production channel for the movie makers and has info from 120 Hz down. The subwoofer is a playback channel: therefor setting it to less than 120 Hz will omit some of the LFE's.

Klipsch RF 7 based HT 7.4, Pioneer SC 35, Acurus Five 200 amp, Chase SS 18.2(2), VS 18.1(2), Samsung BDP F 7500, Asus/My Book Live HPC 4 TB

Yaquin VK 2100 amp, McIntosh XR 5 speakers, Samsung BDP F 7500
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post #3 of 7 Old 01-14-2013, 03:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Thank you for guiding me in the right direction DJ1. I will probably forgo the y-adapter. I am still confused on phase though you say to have "0", which i assume you mean on my receiver (when i hit the phase cntl. button it says "off" i will check the GUI), but i still don't know the difference between 'normal' and 'reverse' as far as the back of my sub. There is 2 options for a reason but i dont know which characteristics of norm. and rev. has (where to leave that switch at). i now have my LFE @ zero, and the Xo on my sub is all the way up. My new center came today but is thawing out. (Hope the horn tweeter doesn't clash too much with rest of my speakers.)

I do appreciate your knowledge and guidance.
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post #4 of 7 Old 01-14-2013, 03:40 PM
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The phase switch on the back of your sub is to make sure that your sub is "in phase" with your FL/FR speakers.

See HERE.
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post #5 of 7 Old 01-15-2013, 04:45 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan P View Post

The phase switch on the back of your sub is to make sure that your sub is "in phase" with your FL/FR speakers.

See HERE.

What I don't get, unless using a continuous potentiometer, how can one accurately set their phase?

I use the phase so the subs are in sync with each other at the main listening position. According to REW, the best phase setting recorded at the main listening position was: left sub phase set to two o'clock and the right sub phase set to ten o'clock.

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post #6 of 7 Old 01-15-2013, 01:37 PM
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Tehcnically a switch changes polarity, not phase. Sometimes switching polarity is a good thing, if you happen to have a sub that inverts polarity and mains that don't (assuming distances make the difference important at imortant frequencies (i.e. in the crossover region). Calling polarity switches phase controls is a longstanding misnomer. When you have an actual continuous phase control, it is at its stated angle only at one particular frequency - - it would have to delay every single frequency a different amount to keep them all in the same relative phase. So technically setting a phase control 180 degrees is different from flipping polarity.

To perfect the splice, controlling the phase is the superior option (and you can do it with the distance offset as well as with a "phase" control).
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post #7 of 7 Old 01-15-2013, 02:02 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JHAz View Post

To perfect the splice, controlling the phase is the superior option (and you can do it with the distance offset as well as with a "phase" control).

Thanks!

I can't offset in the time domain because of using a monaural signal coming out of each subwoofer pre-out using an internally split signal path. From your above post, it reads like the phase control, coupled with REW got the job done correctly. When the new drivers come in and they're installed, up and running, I'll use the same phase setting for the initial setup and see wasssss up.
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