Subwoofer audyssey calibration... weaksauce "reference level" - Page 5 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #121 of 132 Old 03-26-2013, 01:53 AM
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I have played around with the settings and finally found what i really like. After running audyssey i put it to bypass front left and right. I leave dynamic eq and volume off. Sub is at 9 oclock gain. Centre channel bumped up 2 db for wife to hear voices better ( she wears hearing aids ). my hsu vtf15 pumps all the bass i need. Every movie i watch i usually adjust the subs trims 2-3 db up or down. I like my bass at a certain level which is often different then the movies mixer. To me the fun part of a home theater is being able to customize the sound for what i want. Some movies have the surrounds mixed too high. Then i will turn them down a couple db. Its not like i am fiddling throughout the whole movie. Once or twice and then i am set. For me its fun , not stressful.
I found with audyssey eq through the mains it was too in my face. On bypass mode it just sounds right. Right for me ... Maybe not for you.
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post #122 of 132 Old 03-26-2013, 05:13 AM
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Here are the settings that work for me:

Audyssey Music Curve
THX Cinema
(THX Re-EQ switched off)
Dynamic EQ

Audyssey set the levels of my subs to -3.5 for my fronts and -4.5 for the rears (near-field).

Watched The Fifth Element on Blu-ray, with uncompressed LPCM 5.1 audio.
Thought the windows in my HT were going to burst out, during the scenes with explosions.

Benq W1080ST DLP 3D Projector
Sony BDP-S5200 3D Blu-ray Player
Denon X4000 Receiver
Pioneer SP-FS52 Tower Speaker x 4
Pioneer SP-C22 Center Channel Speaker
PSA XS15se Subwoofer x 4
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post #123 of 132 Old 03-26-2013, 06:28 AM
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How
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan P View Post

I've found that if I turn down my surrounds 3db, the Dynamic EQ works great.
how about increasing the fronts by 3dbs and leave the surrounds as is?
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post #124 of 132 Old 03-26-2013, 07:40 AM
 
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It's best to run one's room analyzing program at the same time parametric settings are changed so one can physically see the complex interaction small changes have on a frequency graph.

Sans doing this, one won't have a clue what interactions are taking place.
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post #125 of 132 Old 03-26-2013, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvuong View Post

How
how about increasing the fronts by 3dbs and leave the surrounds as is?

Wouldn't that accomplish the same thing? With the exception of throwing off your reference level, of course. Turning down the surrounds works perfectly for me, with my speakers, in my room, YMMV.
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post #126 of 132 Old 03-26-2013, 09:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan P View Post

Wouldn't that accomplish the same thing? With the exception of throwing off your reference level, of course. Turning down the surrounds works perfectly for me, with my speakers, in my room, YMMV.

I guess it comes down to two things, really.

First off, if you've got four surround channels it would take fractionally longer to change all four than it would to adjust LCR. If you've got two surround channels the opposite applies.

Second, and your mention of reference level is key here, I would think that dynamic EQ and/or dynamic volume would behave just a bit differently because the master volume level would be different for the same basic experience. I suppose that would be a matter of preference, whether you like the effect slightly stronger or slightly weaker.

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post #127 of 132 Old 03-26-2013, 10:16 AM
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Some AVR's (like Denon) have fade controls in the speaker menu so that the front to back audio can be adjusted on the fly.
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post #128 of 132 Old 03-28-2013, 05:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvuong View Post

How
how about increasing the fronts by 3dbs and leave the surrounds as is?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan P View Post

Wouldn't that accomplish the same thing? With the exception of throwing off your reference level, of course. Turning down the surrounds works perfectly for me, with my speakers, in my room, YMMV.
Changing the levels of the fronts would change their balance with the sub(s). Changing the levels of the surrounds would likewise change *their* balance with the sub(s), but that would be less of an issue than changing the balance of the mains with the sub(s). If all you want is to reduce the impact of DEQ on the surrounds, the best adjustment is to lower the surrounds a few dB. That would keep the balance of the rest of the system intact.

Craig

Lombardi said it:
Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch excellence."

My System

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post #129 of 132 Old 01-22-2016, 03:47 PM
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Not sure if its been said yet, but here goes. I find it's easier to calibrate the other components around your sub, not the other way around. If you have a good sub which you do, you wanna use octaves at 1/3 increments. You DO NOT want to use pink noise to calibrate your sub. That will result in calibrating to the peak of your room's resonant frequency and will cause other lower frequencies to sound dull or lacking punch. Place your speaker in the optimum position using a SPL meter or speaker crawl. Once you find the ideal placement in your room you want to graph the frequency response of your room by marking down the frequency response of each 1/3 octave until you get around nine different data points. You then can see where your peaks and dips are. Once you do that you can then work on getting the flattest response possible in your room by averaging those data points and applying it to your receivers EQ. Once you get a flat or flatter response your going to notice that your bass is crisp clean not boomy or distorted. Makes all the difference in the world. If you've exhausted all possible placement options and your still getting peaks of over 10 decibels in fluctuation then that's when you want to consider Bass traps.


Cheers!
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post #130 of 132 Old 01-25-2016, 09:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mighty5 View Post
Not sure if its been said yet, but here goes. I find it's easier to calibrate the other components around your sub, not the other way around. If you have a good sub which you do, you wanna use octaves at 1/3 increments. You DO NOT want to use pink noise to calibrate your sub. That will result in calibrating to the peak of your room's resonant frequency and will cause other lower frequencies to sound dull or lacking punch. Place your speaker in the optimum position using a SPL meter or speaker crawl. Once you find the ideal placement in your room you want to graph the frequency response of your room by marking down the frequency response of each 1/3 octave until you get around nine different data points. You then can see where your peaks and dips are. Once you do that you can then work on getting the flattest response possible in your room by averaging those data points and applying it to your receivers EQ. Once you get a flat or flatter response your going to notice that your bass is crisp clean not boomy or distorted. Makes all the difference in the world. If you've exhausted all possible placement options and your still getting peaks of over 10 decibels in fluctuation then that's when you want to consider Bass traps.


Cheers!
Good advice...however, much easier with REW.

BTW, this thread is 3 years old.
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post #131 of 132 Old 01-25-2016, 10:21 AM
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I love this thread! Lazarus rises!. Bump.
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post #132 of 132 Old 01-25-2016, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan P View Post
Good advice...however, much easier with REW.

BTW, this thread is 3 years old.
What if the OP was still waiting
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