DIY vs RW-12D - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 9 Old 03-22-2013, 01:48 PM - Thread Starter
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I currently have RW-12D. It sounds messed up right now though. Like literally something is "flapping" or some type of weird noise coming from the woofer. Doesn't help that EVERYTHING in my fraternity room (so terrible quality) also vibrates, and I know that the box may be weakened due to a woman thinking it was an end table that I placed under my TV. Not sure why she thought that.

I'm not sure whether to salvage the RW-12D, buy another one to replace it (only 300 dollars), or go DIY.
DIY I'd be looking at the 15 inch Ultimax in a 4 cubic foot sealed box (I don't have much building experience so sealed is probably best and easiest), powered by a Crown XLS 1500 (I have one and don't mind buying another Crown XLS because I really like this amplifier and know I can use it past for applications). Also willing to look at other power amps in the 350 dollar range. More power never hurts. The Behringer looks good and I could eventually get 4 subs hooked up to that easily. 1250 at 2 ohms that's quite a lot of power per sub.

Just wondering though how much of an improvement I'd be looking at by getting another RW-12D/replacing the one I have since it sounds messed up, to going DIY with the Ultimax 15 inch in a 4 cubic foot sealed box. How can I do a graph of both of these in WinISD so I can compare the difference?
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post #2 of 9 Old 03-22-2013, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by tential View Post

How can I do a graph of both of these in WinISD so I can compare the difference?
With the Ultimax it's a pretty simple affair, as you know the driver T/S specs. With the RW-12D, not so much. But without even knowing the RW-12D specs I doubt it would come even remotely close to the Ultimax.

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post #3 of 9 Old 03-22-2013, 02:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok, because I saw some graphs from here
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1426307/klipsch-rw-12d-pair-vs-jamo-sub-650-pair-vs-dayton-audio-titanic-mk-iii-sealed-sub-pair-subwoofer-g2g
That made it seem like they almost be similar.

I'm pretty much at dimensions, which I believe are about 20x23x20 (about after bracing 4 cubic ft). Bracing, I was going to do your design(funny that you reply). After reading Mark Seaton's replies though to the thread about perimeter bracing, I thought about doing a window, then the the cross section, then window again. I'm really unsure of how you are supposed to fit them into the box and then glue in. It's kind of vague in every thread. Then just confused as to why people double baffle the front. Not sure why it matters. I'm so closed to being able to start building it if I choose to go this route.
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post #4 of 9 Old 03-22-2013, 02:30 PM
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Pick up a box from DIYSoundGroup if you don't feel confident

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post #5 of 9 Old 03-22-2013, 02:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ousooner2 View Post

Pick up a box from DIYSoundGroup if you don't feel confident

Just making sure before I build it. It's only like 50 bucks to build myself tops. If it doesn't work who cares? I already have looked at that though and if it doesn't work I'll be purchasing a subwoofer flatpack. Building it myself makes me get the dimensions I want as well. I kind of like that power and it's a first build. I plan on not even keeping it and putting it into my fraternity's new DJ booth along with a second one. Pretty much just using cash to upgrade our party room while I also get to practice my subwoofer building skills and learn something new.

Final build we be piano black finish that I'll work for a week or two on to get really glossy. Maybe a glossy deep blood red.

I'm just curious that's all though, if DIY is my best option to demolish my RW-12D, then definitely will do it. Just curious as to how to put bracing in and what a double baffle is used for? I think I understand what bracing is used for after reading Bill and Mark Seaton's replies on the subject, or at least I can design a half competent bracing that will definitely work. Also curious as to what sub on the market a DIY build using the Ultimax would compare to.
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post #6 of 9 Old 03-22-2013, 02:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tential View Post

Ok, because I saw some graphs from here
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1426307/klipsch-rw-12d-pair-vs-jamo-sub-650-pair-vs-dayton-audio-titanic-mk-iii-sealed-sub-pair-subwoofer-g2g
That made it seem like they almost be similar.
Similar in response, but not output. That's determined by the driver displacement, and no way does the Klipsch 12 match the Dayton 15.
Quote:
Bracing, I was going to do your design(funny that you reply). After reading Mark Seaton's replies though to the thread about perimeter bracing, I thought about doing a window, then the the cross section, then window again. I'm really unsure of how you are supposed to fit them into the box and then glue in. It's kind of vague in every thread. Then just confused as to why people double baffle the front. Not sure why it matters. I'm so closed to being able to start building it if I choose to go this route.
Perimeter bracing doesn't do anything. Double baffling the front is what you do when you don't do what you should do, which is to brace the baffle to the back.

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post #7 of 9 Old 03-22-2013, 03:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post

Similar in response, but not output. That's determined by the driver displacement, and no way does the Klipsch 12 match the Dayton 15.
Perimeter bracing doesn't do anything. Double baffling the front is what you do when you don't do what you should do, which is to brace the baffle to the back.

Ok, so SPL wise what gains can I make from switching to the Ultimax Dayon? I prefer things to be bass heavy and the RW-12D doesn't seem to be able to cut it. Seems like it'll last for a year and then break for me, and I'll still hear distortion in some scenes.

I think I'll do the dowel method you suggested although i'm wondering, when I squeeze in the dowel rods, do I just glue around where I squeezed it in or do I put the glue first then squeeze the dowel on top of the glue?
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post #8 of 9 Old 03-22-2013, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tential View Post

Ok, so SPL wise what gains can I make from switching to the Ultimax Dayon? I prefer things to be bass heavy and the RW-12D doesn't seem to be able to cut it. Seems like it'll last for a year and then break for me, and I'll still hear distortion in some scenes.

I think I'll do the dowel method you suggested although i'm wondering, when I squeeze in the dowel rods, do I just glue around where I squeezed it in or do I put the glue first then squeeze the dowel on top of the glue?
You've reached the point where you should be posting on the DIY forum.

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post #9 of 9 Old 03-24-2013, 09:02 PM
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If your RW-12D is making weird sounds it might be the port tube has come loose. There are quite a few guys who have had this happen. Reach your hand up the port under the front side, see if the tube you put your hand into is loose and just free in there. If so you need to take it apart and glue it.

Easy fix.

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