Originally Posted by bossobass
Speaking of "Benchmark", most of us DIYers usually say something simplistic like "DIY Rules" or similar when "best", "Benchmark", etc., words are used. Given that it's always just a simple statement of fact and most people fail to use the objective data, one-to-one across the board, I thought it might be interesting to do just that with no words at all, thanks to Josh Ricci:
I took the CEA 2010 Max Burst data from Josh's site of a single UXL-18 driver in a simple sealed non-specific enclosure powered by a real amplifier and with zero EQ, limiters or other 'protection' or manipulation devices that are found on EVERY commercial offering, including the SM. I then scaled and overlaid the same data for the top commercial subs Josh has tested and created an animation to show the dominance of a DIY sub in its simplest form.
The highest output ported commercial subs could only equal the sealed DIY sub at their respective tune and drop off immediately thereunder, bursting the ported-at-tune myth.
The commercial subs are numbered in the animation and are as follows:
1. Chase VS-18
2. Rythmik FV15HP
3. PSA XV15
4. Paradigm Sub 2
5. Outlaw LFM-1 EX
6. Funk 18.0
7. Epik Empire
8. ED A7S-450
9. Velo DD18http://picasion.com/i/1VwNV/
I just found this to be a fun exercise with results us DIYers have always known, the more zealous of us tending to rub it in on the commercial forum, and thought I'd pass it along for your entertainment.
Best post in this thread.
This is exactly what I'm talking about. No need for 10 pages about commercial subs being a benchmark.
Make the benchmark simple; a single quality driver in a no-nonsense sealed enclosure with real power and no compromises and look at what we can do.
We can compare commercial subs to this benchmark and see what those compromises leave us with (plate amps, enclosure size/shape, EQ, limiters, other protection/manipulation, etc...).
The UXL-18 is one great example as it doesn't leave much on the table to the LMS-5400 but it's a much more realistic value proposition for most.
Originally Posted by GetGray
Point me to how to put the sub that generated the reference line in your graph together. please.
Purchase one (or more) of these flat pack kits (wait for the SI 18" driver cut out option to come back in stock): http://www.diysoundgroup.com/subwoofer-flatpacks-2/sealed-subwoofer-flatpacks/4-sub-flat-pack.html
- $145 shipped
Driver is here: http://www.istonline.ca/mach5_uxl_18.html
- $530 shipped
Depending on what you're after (how many of these, etc.), if you are serious, start a thread in the DIY subforum and they can help you with amp options.
For sake of answering the question fully, grab an EP4000 and feed it 2000w (bridged 4ohm) for $300. Should be a perfect fit for that enclosure.
Balanced MiniDSP for $145: http://www.minidsp.com/products/minidsp-in-a-box/minidsp-balanced-2x4
This gives you the ability to apply a LT for low end boost while giving you great PEQ abilities as well, even use REW to measure and auto-suggest filters for correction.
Get some glue, clamps and paint. Put the puzzle together like MK says. Bam, reference sub.