Klipsch rw-12d Amp Repair - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 27 Old 08-19-2013, 03:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi guys, I've had a Klipsch rw-12d subwoofer for about 7 years that recently stopped working. I tried replacing the fuse with the appropriate 3.15A 250V slow burn fuse but they all burnt instantly. I removed the amp plate and discovered some charring on a few resistors and diodes on what appears to be the power supply. I contacted Klipsch and they said they could send me a new amp for $270. The fried part on the board looks like it'd cost a few dollars to someone with an electronics background. There seem to be three options: Get replacement from Klipsch, get a third party amp like the BASH 300w or figure out how to replace the appropriate components on the board. I am willing to attempt the soldering myself if someone can point me in the right direction for what components are fried. If there is a solution for less $200, I'm cool with that too. Can anyone point me in a direction?

The board says "indigo canada 600130 Rev.0"

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post #2 of 27 Old 08-19-2013, 03:19 PM
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For that amount, why not just wait until Newegg runs a $280 sale on these and just buy a new one?
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post #3 of 27 Old 08-19-2013, 04:53 PM - Thread Starter
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The model has been discontinued so I'm unsure if newegg will ever carry it again. That would be a good option though.
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post #4 of 27 Old 08-20-2013, 08:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Can anyone tell me what capacitors are needed in the RW-12D schematic on the power supply board at spots C414, C413, and the two directly below? C413 still reads 104 on it. They are the ones busted in my photo from the first post. I found the schematic for the RW-12 but the boards are probably different. Or if anyone has the schematic for RW-12D, please share.

I believe they're 1µF 100v capacitors.
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post #5 of 27 Old 09-03-2013, 04:39 AM
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Hi. I have 2 subwoofers. One with same problem as yours. But it has slow 1.6A fuse. Do i have wrong fuse? Can i somehow compare components on the circuitboard?
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post #6 of 27 Old 09-03-2013, 08:17 AM
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post #7 of 27 Old 09-03-2013, 08:19 AM
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This one seems to be dead. Its behind the black cord from powerswitch. What kind om component is it?
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post #8 of 27 Old 09-03-2013, 03:16 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsnrkd View Post

The model has been discontinued so I'm unsure if newegg will ever carry it again. That would be a good option though.

This is a very good excuse to upgrade your subwoofer. Can your budget handle the price of an upgrade?

You're welcome to "TRY" and desolder, with the "INTENT" of replacing the resistors. That is if you're able to figure out the fried color code. And even then, after all the repair effort, you may find you made things "A WHOLE LOT WORSE."

(I suck at desoldering)

It all depends on if you're feeling "Dirty Harry" lucky or Saturday night lucky. tongue.gif

Well?........Are you feeling lucky?

And if not, use this as an excuse to add a Rythmik, LV12R (or better) to your credit card.

(fyi, that's how we ended up with a 60" flat screen. The Olympics were going start on Sunday and Saturday morning, when the wife turned the television on, oh darn, the television took a dump.)
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post #9 of 27 Old 09-03-2013, 10:52 PM
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Much easier and cheeper desoldering it. Can't be so hard when i have a working one in the other subwoofer. Btw where do you see colorcodes on this component BeeMan458. You suck on electronics too. Not only desoldering. smile.gif
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post #10 of 27 Old 09-04-2013, 04:46 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RW12D View Post

Btw where do you see colorcodes on this component BeeMan458. You suck on electronics too. Not only desoldering. smile.gif

The color rings on the resistors that give resistor value. Granted, the black when the resistor blew, ruined the value rings, which will make it difficult to read the code to replace the with the correct value resistor. Maybe the removed resistor will wipe clean. And yes, I'm not an electronic type so it's a fair assessment to say, I suck at electronics.

Magnifying the image, in the blackened shadows, I see it's not a resistor. I can't tell what part is fried. Either which way, to whom ever tries to repair the board.......good-luck with that. One can always choose to replace the amplifier.

-
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post #11 of 27 Old 09-05-2013, 07:12 AM
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It's a thermal resistor. 10ohm 4A. 1$ each. smile.gif
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post #12 of 27 Old 09-05-2013, 07:50 AM
 
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Well.......looks like it didn't do too good of a job resisting thermals. tongue.gif

Bless those willing to desolder a board so they can replace a blown thermal resistor and sainthood status for those who succeed.
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post #13 of 27 Old 09-05-2013, 01:07 PM
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(#4) SCK104?
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post #14 of 27 Old 09-05-2013, 02:32 PM
 
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Not being an ET type, I'm dependent on Google to further my education on pretty much anything and this is what I found.

Now, about those fried little critters directly below the resistors. As to desoldering and replacing anything, I'm going stick with ordering up a replacement Amp as that's my skill level.
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post #15 of 27 Old 09-06-2013, 08:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Hey RW12D, in the picture you posted, my cap is blown in that same place too. I actually hadn't noticed that one until you pointed it out. Have you found the part for that yet? Also, which part are you referring to in your last post?
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post #16 of 27 Old 09-06-2013, 10:25 AM
 
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As encouragement, were you able to take a peak at the posted link I left in the post above yours?

(Google, the underutilized resource of the early twenty-first century)
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post #17 of 27 Old 09-07-2013, 01:45 PM
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It
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsnrkd View Post

Hey RW12D, in the picture you posted, my cap is blown in that same place too. I actually hadn't noticed that one until you pointed it out. Have you found the part for that yet? Also, which part are you referring to in your last post?
It's the thermistor SCK104 10ohm 4A. I ordered it from China. Couldn't find it here in Sweden or in Turkey. Strange. Or not. The s..t is made in China. I hope the rest of components works.
http://m.aliexpress.com/search.htm?keywords=sck104
Jsnrkd. What about the other components? C413, C414! What happend with them?
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post #18 of 27 Old 09-08-2013, 06:53 AM
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Now i see black, burned components.
Can this be what you are looking for?
http://m.aliexpress.com/item/1021605301.html
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post #19 of 27 Old 09-17-2013, 12:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the links to the parts. I decided to ship the amp in for repair instead of making this my first soldering project. Once I get it back, I'll let you know the details.
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post #20 of 27 Old 09-20-2013, 12:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Thank you all for commenting on my thread. My subwoofer is working again. I shipped the board into Sybesma’s Electronics in Michigan per the recommendation of Klispch's support. Total cost including shipping both ways was about $220 which cheaper than what getting the part straight from Klipsch. They said the board wasn't worth repairing and sent me a new amplifier. Turn around was about 5 days. Overall good experience and pleased to have my subwoofer working again. I will use them again in the future if needed.
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post #21 of 27 Old 09-21-2013, 10:05 PM
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Do you ha a schematic of the amp? I have the same problem with blown fuses. Let me know how things went with your repair.
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post #22 of 27 Old 10-30-2013, 09:53 AM
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i had to order 4 if you need one email.junk@aol.com yes its really my email ( Thermistors 10ohms 5Amp 15mm disk} 

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post #23 of 27 Old 10-30-2013, 09:58 PM
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The Klipsch RW-12D is still alive. Now look at the new Klipsch RW-12DII for $499.

http://www.wwstereo.com/Klipsch/1016334

Media Server: UnRaid Server: 15TB of storage and growing :).

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post #24 of 27 Old 02-13-2014, 06:10 AM
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What did you ever do with your subwoofer,  I have a rw12d as well with the same problem except I can see any visual problems??

 

 

Brian

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post #25 of 27 Old 05-01-2014, 05:37 AM
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Hi guys,

landed on this thread because I have the same problem too, after also 7 years of good usage.

 

In my case, this is the transforming coil which is burned out; the big yellow stuff having a sticker reading HI-POT OK [not it's not :)]. It is burned out on the low voltage part, namely on the opposite side of the plug. That may not be obvious at first, but if you look carefully yoy may seen some melted parts and the glue color is brownish instead of yellowish. There is also a small vertical plate supporting various resistors and a transistor that seems to have suffered from the coil's heat. Dunno if it is dead.

 

If someone know where to find that coil, a little post here would be helpful.

 

cheers,

chris,

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post #26 of 27 Old 06-16-2014, 08:01 AM
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My sub finally stopped subbing. Brought it in to the local a/v shop that I bought it from which is also an authorized dealer/repair center for Klipsch products. What I'm wondering is does the repair hold up longer than the original? Just curious if anyone out there had this sub repaired and have had it last longer than the original parts lasted?
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post #27 of 27 Old 06-16-2014, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjperrone View Post
My sub finally stopped subbing. Brought it in to the local a/v shop that I bought it from which is also an authorized dealer/repair center for Klipsch products. What I'm wondering is does the repair hold up longer than the original? Just curious if anyone out there had this sub repaired and have had it last longer than the original parts lasted?
Dunno yet;
but just fixed mine for 10$. The transformer had nothing, was just melted from outside but was still functioning. One mosfet was shorted.

Got some help from there too:
http://www.projectionforums.com/view...hp?f=28&t=8280

As you can see, the pb is not the electronic parts failing but some bloody well designed yellow glue becoming conductive after a few years (that's called planned obsolescence indeed).

Remove the glue, change the burnt parts, no reason to fail for a long time....

Good luck,
cheers.
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