B&W DB1 - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 35 Old 10-26-2013, 02:25 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm interested in a DB1. I was wondering what past or present owners think of their DB1's?
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post #2 of 35 Old 10-30-2013, 01:30 AM
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Hello.
It is a very powerful sub and it play very accurate low bass. I have never heard better biggrin.gif
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post #3 of 35 Old 10-30-2013, 07:16 AM
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It is a very good subwoofer. Its bass is tight and very articulated. It can play really low bass. I really like it.

Chris. My DVD and Blu Ray collection
JVC RS65, ST 130, B&W 803 Diamonds mains, B&W HTM2 Diamond center channel,B&W 805 Diamond surrounds, B&W DB1 subwoofer, Anthem D2v, Parasound Halo A51+A21,Oppo BDP 103D,PS Audio Power Plant Premier
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post #4 of 35 Old 10-30-2013, 11:18 AM
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I think this is one of the most under rated subs out there and although the price is high it is much less than other premium subs with mutiple drivers. If I was shopping for a high-end sub today the Db1 would be on my shortlist.

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post #5 of 35 Old 10-30-2013, 11:56 AM
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I would look at the Velodyne DD18+ tested here:

http://www.data-bass.com/systems

Scroll all the way down the page for the DD18+. One of the cleanest and easiest to use subs in the premium subwoofer realm. The remote control is very handy.

Also, there is an "Official Velodyne Support Thread" right here on the Forum:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/304306/offical-velodyne-support-thread

where you can get questions answered by tech support workers from Velodyne.

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post #6 of 35 Old 10-30-2013, 11:58 AM
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I have a pair of them and I can highly rate them. As mentioned it is over priced compared to the competition. However it is very flexible in terms of configuration based on the input options. The auto correction as far as im concerned is useless, so I don't use it. It all depends on your application as you have to be careful where you plan to use it, especially with the dual driver configuration. You don't want any of the drivers firing into a wall.

One area that is not too user friendly is the tiny screen for configuration. I use the Subapp programme instead and do it via a pc, its not the most intuitive and if you want to change something its an overcomplicated process, compared to just doing it on the fly via a standard back panel on a competing product. That said and done , how often are you going to change things, unless you enjoy tinkering around. I control mine via rs232 via iRule so it gives me flexibility on the fly if I want to do something remotely, you can also do that via its ir input. You can create different programs and select them according to your source material and then select these instead of having to change a setting on the panel. Its also nice that with the trim volume you have a range of +/-6dB if you want to change something momentarily. The next time you turn it on , its back to the default internal volume setting. So if flexibility is high on your requirement, I would say go for it.

It is also a fairly compact package and the finish on it is first rate. What are you planning on using it for, stereo or HT?
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post #7 of 35 Old 10-30-2013, 11:02 PM
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Has anyone used the rroom correction? I have tried several times and always get the message of poor signal to noise ratio. I requested another sound card to see if is that.

Chris. My DVD and Blu Ray collection
JVC RS65, ST 130, B&W 803 Diamonds mains, B&W HTM2 Diamond center channel,B&W 805 Diamond surrounds, B&W DB1 subwoofer, Anthem D2v, Parasound Halo A51+A21,Oppo BDP 103D,PS Audio Power Plant Premier
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post #8 of 35 Old 10-31-2013, 04:02 AM
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Mine does that as well. I suspect a poor quality sound card. Check the wire going into the microphone, I find if it has too much tension on it, my measurement does the same, so possibly a bad fitting connection. Its hard to duplicate as there is no consistency when it does this. However since I now have my subs closer to my measurement area it has stopped doing this. Which does point to the sound card sensitivity, who knows. Its a very poor implementation for such a pricey product.
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post #9 of 35 Old 10-31-2013, 10:52 AM
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My EQ works just fine. But you still might wanna turn the level down a bit, in my case -2 db wink.gif
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post #10 of 35 Old 10-31-2013, 10:53 AM
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But what do you guys think sounds better, flat or impact EQ ?
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post #11 of 35 Old 10-31-2013, 12:55 PM
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I like the flat eq better. My main problem is the room correction. I think that I may have a defective sound card.

Chris. My DVD and Blu Ray collection
JVC RS65, ST 130, B&W 803 Diamonds mains, B&W HTM2 Diamond center channel,B&W 805 Diamond surrounds, B&W DB1 subwoofer, Anthem D2v, Parasound Halo A51+A21,Oppo BDP 103D,PS Audio Power Plant Premier
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post #12 of 35 Old 10-31-2013, 01:05 PM
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Someone should really test this sub out compared to the JL F113, SVS PB13-Ultra, Paradigm Sub 1, and even Velodyne +DD18.

The DB1 may not perform on at the top (SPL wise), but it may take the running in topping in Sound Quality as those were its design goals.

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post #13 of 35 Old 11-03-2013, 07:50 AM
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I need to revisit my comments regarding the room compensation. It all depends on how large the area is you are running the measurements over. A smaller tighter area does make a more meaningful and verifiable difference. A larger area less so unless the measurements have similar issues. I read the white paper on it again and it gave me a better understanding on what it does. Measuring and confirming via REW, shows it does work, it is conservative in its approach which probably is not a bad approach.
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post #14 of 35 Old 11-03-2013, 11:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by windshear View Post

I need to revisit my comments regarding the room compensation. It all depends on how large the area is you are running the measurements over. A smaller tighter area does make a more meaningful and verifiable difference. A larger area less so unless the measurements have similar issues. I read the white paper on it again and it gave me a better understanding on what it does. Measuring and confirming via REW, shows it does work, it is conservative in its approach which probably is not a bad approach.

Have you tried to calibrate again?

Chris. My DVD and Blu Ray collection
JVC RS65, ST 130, B&W 803 Diamonds mains, B&W HTM2 Diamond center channel,B&W 805 Diamond surrounds, B&W DB1 subwoofer, Anthem D2v, Parasound Halo A51+A21,Oppo BDP 103D,PS Audio Power Plant Premier
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post #15 of 35 Old 12-28-2013, 07:50 AM - Thread Starter
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What works best with the DB1, balanced or single cable (20ft) and does it make a difference?




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post #16 of 35 Old 12-28-2013, 10:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vvuuren View Post

What works best with the DB1, balanced or single cable (20ft) and does it make a difference?
You should always used a balanced connection if the option is available. Most consumer grade gear doesn't have it.

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post #17 of 35 Old 12-28-2013, 03:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vvuuren View Post

What works best with the DB1, balanced or single cable (20ft) and does it make a difference?




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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post

You should always used a balanced connection if the option is available. Most consumer grade gear doesn't have it.

Balanced connections requires more components at either end than unbalanced connections. Using a balanced connection in this case would be advantageous because the sub is actually balanced. Just because the manufacturer offers a balanced connection, it doesn't actually mean the component is balanced.
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post #18 of 35 Old 12-28-2013, 08:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Balanced connections requires more components at either end than unbalanced connections. Using a balanced connection in this case would be advantageous because the sub is actually balanced. Just because the manufacturer offers a balanced connection, it doesn't actually mean the component is balanced.
But for a sub would you actually hear a difference?
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post #19 of 35 Old 12-28-2013, 09:06 PM
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But for a sub would you actually hear a difference?

That's a tough one. You really don't know until you try. Unless there's a problem with noise in your setup, it's more dubious on whether the balanced connection will be advantageous. But in this case, I think it's worth a try if you haven't already bought interconnects but if it's working fine for you now and you want to save yourself some money then I wouldn't bother.
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post #20 of 35 Old 12-29-2013, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by vvuuren View Post

But for a sub would you actually hear a difference?
Balanced connections have at least 6dB higher S/N, plus they eliminate cable sourced EMI and RFI and ground loop noise, so they're always worth using. The problem is does your AVR or whatever you're using as a signal source have a balanced output? If not the question is academic.

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post #21 of 35 Old 12-29-2013, 07:46 AM
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Quote:
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"..... they eliminate cable sourced EMI and RFI and ground loop noise....."
Would this be cause to consider using a non super cheapy subwoofer cable?  I see a lot of debate on whether cables make much difference.  My subwoofer cable may end up being up to 25ft long depending on where I place it, or as short as 8-10 ft.

Im looking at ~ $700 sub options and I have a very cheap avr so I assume I don't have the balanced connection option.


AVR:       Yamaha RXV-375

Display:  Panasonic  TH-50PC77U

LCR:       Hsu HB1.2  HC1.2

Sub:       (2) PSA XV15se

Blu Ray:  Sony BDP-S5100

Apple TV

Harmony 650

miniDSP

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post #22 of 35 Old 12-29-2013, 08:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post

Balanced connections have at least 6dB higher S/N, plus they eliminate cable sourced EMI and RFI and ground loop noise, so they're always worth using. The problem is does your AVR or whatever you're using as a signal source have a balanced output? If not the question is academic.
I have the new Krell Foundation that has a balanced sub output. A balanced cable of same quality is double the price and that is why I wondered if it would make an audible difference.
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post #23 of 35 Old 12-29-2013, 09:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post

Balanced connections have at least 6dB higher S/N, plus they eliminate cable sourced EMI and RFI and ground loop noise, so they're always worth using. The problem is does your AVR or whatever you're using as a signal source have a balanced output? If not the question is academic.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bear123 View Post

Im looking at ~ $700 sub options and I have a very cheap avr so I assume I don't have the balanced connection option.

Quote:
Originally Posted by vvuuren View Post

I have the new Krell Foundation that has a balanced sub output. A balanced cable of same quality is double the price and that is why I wondered if it would make an audible difference.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post

Balanced connections have at least 6dB higher S/N, plus they eliminate cable sourced EMI and RFI and ground loop noise, so they're always worth using. The problem is does your AVR or whatever you're using as a signal source have a balanced output? If not the question is academic.

While many amplifiers have balanced, XLR input connectors, most convert the balanced input signal to unbalanced in the first amplification stage. So you're not really get all the benefits of a balanced connection and you may be hurting the signal by going through more balanced transformers unnecessarily (balanced has more devices in the signal path). To get the sonic improvements of balanced operation, the equipment needs to be manufactured from input to output using the balanced circuitry Some equipment manufacturers include the balanced connections in their equipment, but the circuitry is not fully or truely balanced, and these do not offer the improvements from a balanced topology/circuitry. Purists would argue that it might even sound worse.

Then there's the dispute about whether it being fully balanced, either using op-amps or a balanced transformer or whether the internal signal path is actually single ended but the output is balanced. But if you're not having problems and want to save money, my recommendation is still save yourself the hassle and keep doing what you're doing.
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post #24 of 35 Old 12-29-2013, 09:53 AM
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A balanced cable of same quality is double the price.
True, but it still shouldn't exceed $20 for a 30 footer. if it does you're buying your cables from the wrong place.

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post #25 of 35 Old 12-29-2013, 09:59 AM
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True, but it still shouldn't exceed $20 for a 30 footer. if it does you're buying your cables from the wrong place.

Bill! People like expensive cables. Don't start a cable debate. SHHHH!
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post #26 of 35 Old 12-30-2013, 11:44 AM
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I recently changed the cable from my anthem d2v to the db1. Originally I had a long rca cable and switchd to a balanced pbj kimber kable and made a world of difference.the balanced conection didn't just raised the 6 plus dbs mentioned above but ithe bass its much tighter and seems lo go a little bit lower..l
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Chris. My DVD and Blu Ray collection
JVC RS65, ST 130, B&W 803 Diamonds mains, B&W HTM2 Diamond center channel,B&W 805 Diamond surrounds, B&W DB1 subwoofer, Anthem D2v, Parasound Halo A51+A21,Oppo BDP 103D,PS Audio Power Plant Premier
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post #27 of 35 Old 12-30-2013, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by gonzalc3 View Post

I recently changed the cable from my anthem d2v to the db1. Originally I had a long rca cable and switchd to a balanced pbj kimber kable and made a world of difference.the balanced conection didn't just raised the 6 plus dbs mentioned above but ithe bass its much tighter and seems lo go a little bit lower..l
The only difference a balanced versus unbalanced cable will make is in lowered noise from the high CMRR of balanced, eliminated ground loop noise by separating the signal from the AC ground, and 6dB additional sensitivity, as the voltage swing is doubled. Any other perceived effects are directly a result of those factors. Response won't be 'tighter', nor will the sub go any lower.

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post #28 of 35 Old 01-08-2014, 06:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Anyone with a DB1 have problems connecting laptop to sub with the subApp? Mine keeps on searching for the sub without finding it!
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post #29 of 35 Old 01-10-2014, 05:47 AM
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Anyone with a DB1 have problems connecting laptop to sub with the subApp? Mine keeps on searching for the sub without finding it!

Nope. Probably you have a handshake.

Chris. My DVD and Blu Ray collection
JVC RS65, ST 130, B&W 803 Diamonds mains, B&W HTM2 Diamond center channel,B&W 805 Diamond surrounds, B&W DB1 subwoofer, Anthem D2v, Parasound Halo A51+A21,Oppo BDP 103D,PS Audio Power Plant Premier
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post #30 of 35 Old 01-12-2014, 03:15 PM - Thread Starter
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B&W said to download USB drive from their website but it won't fully install. States error occurs before finishing. Tried it on my laptop and two PC's with same result. All running windows 7. Anyone with similar issues?
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