New SVS PB2000 and SB2000 subs!!!!!! - Page 57 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1681 of 1694 Old 12-20-2016, 08:38 PM
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Quite simple"Yes honey" Yes dear" works for me...?
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post #1682 of 1694 Old 01-15-2017, 06:13 PM
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Dear all, On SVS site, the description for PB2000 says "Borrowing extensively from the legendary SVS Ultra Subwoofer line", technically what exact are the things it borrows from the ultra subwoofer line. I am in the process of making decision between between PB1000 and PB2000, for my dedicated HT room (My room is 16 feet length x 12 feet wide x 8 feet height and is closed from all sides). What exactly is the difference between PB1000 and PB 2000. I presently own the Ultra towers/ultra center/ultra surrounds. I love my Ultra speakers. Infact everyone who hears them becomes a huge fan. My friend owns a PB1000, he brought it to my house/HT room. I took a 2 hour demo with that. I like the clean/ distortion free sound of the SVS Subwoofers offer. Correct me if i am wrong, i think due the this clean distortion free nature of SVS , even if i put daul PB2000's in my small HT room i will get the same clean distortion free sound.One more question i have is that most often reviewers label subwoofers according to room size, does that really matters? Can't we just keep the gain low and fit a large subwoofer in a small room? waiting eagerly for response.
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post #1683 of 1694 Old 03-27-2017, 07:36 PM
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I just received my SVS SB-2000. Problem is, the light is on, everything is connected properly. I called SVS, they said maybe the driver was disconnected during shipment. I am still waiting for instructions from them on how to get the amp out. Easy to do without them sending instructions, but it seems I have no tools that fit the screws. Does anyone know what size tool I need? Thanks for a quick reply
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post #1684 of 1694 Old 03-29-2017, 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by ednxuli View Post
I just received my SVS SB-2000. Problem is, the light is on, everything is connected properly. I called SVS, they said maybe the driver was disconnected during shipment. I am still waiting for instructions from them on how to get the amp out. Easy to do without them sending instructions, but it seems I have no tools that fit the screws. Does anyone know what size tool I need? Thanks for a quick reply
Quick response from SVS. I just needed a 3mm hex nut tool and all is well now.
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post #1685 of 1694 Old 04-08-2017, 12:06 PM
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New owner of the PB 2000. So far I'm loving it. Makes the couch rumble! My room is around 2,100 cubic feet, using the pioneer Andrew jones speakers. I've discovered the back right corner of my room provides the best bass for our sitting area. It's roughly around 8 feet from the couch. I'm curious about the set up issue.

After running Audyssey the level comes back at -5.5 DB. To get more tactile bass I've increased this to 0db in the AVR. My question is if I want even a tad more "ooph" to movies, could I increase the knob on the sub a click or two or would this be running the sub into distortion and possibly ruining the amp? Thanks for your thoughts.
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post #1686 of 1694 Old 04-08-2017, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by butie120 View Post
New owner of the PB 2000. So far I'm loving it. Makes the couch rumble! My room is around 2,100 cubic feet, using the pioneer Andrew jones speakers. I've discovered the back right corner of my room provides the best bass for our sitting area. It's roughly around 8 feet from the couch. I'm curious about the set up issue.

After running Audyssey the level comes back at -5.5 DB. To get more tactile bass I've increased this to 0db in the AVR. My question is if I want even a tad more "ooph" to movies, could I increase the knob on the sub a click or two or would this be running the sub into distortion and possibly ruining the amp? Thanks for your thoughts.
Your sub is dsp controlled. One of the things DSP does is automatically limit output if you try to overdrive it, so you should be ok. If your SVS is like mine, it has a red LED in back that will light up when the DSP is limiting output. If it just flickers occasionally, you're OK, if it lights up, and stays on, you need to back off some.

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post #1687 of 1694 Old 04-08-2017, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by drh3b View Post
Your sub is dsp controlled. One of the things DSP does is automatically limit output if you try to overdrive it, so you should be ok. If your SVS is like mine, it has a red LED in back that will light up when the DSP is limiting output. If it just flickers occasionally, you're OK, if it lights up, and stays on, you need to back off some.
Thanks for that. And if I do turn it up, does this mean that maybe the sub is not playing clean or flat anymore?

And no, I don't have a light on the back of mine.

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post #1688 of 1694 Old 04-08-2017, 01:52 PM
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Thanks for that. And if I do turn it up, does this mean that maybe the sub is not playing clean or flat anymore?

And no, I don't have a light on the back of mine.
Yes. I think it is still playing fairly clean, but it is limiting output so that it isn't damaged. So a loud sound effect will be compressed if the DSP determines it is beyond the ability of the sub. My model is older, and has a different amp. Yours has an LED up front, but the manual doesn't claim that it lights up when the limiting is happening. You can ask here, to see if there is any way to tell if your sub is playing at its limits, I'm sure someone knows, or contact SVS directly.
Official SVS Owners/Support Thread.

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post #1689 of 1694 Old 04-09-2017, 03:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by butie120 View Post
New owner of the PB 2000. So far I'm loving it. Makes the couch rumble! My room is around 2,100 cubic feet, using the pioneer Andrew jones speakers. I've discovered the back right corner of my room provides the best bass for our sitting area. It's roughly around 8 feet from the couch. I'm curious about the set up issue.

After running Audyssey the level comes back at -5.5 DB. To get more tactile bass I've increased this to 0db in the AVR. My question is if I want even a tad more "ooph" to movies, could I increase the knob on the sub a click or two or would this be running the sub into distortion and possibly ruining the amp? Thanks for your thoughts.
FWIW, there was some discussion about this regarding initial setup levels. I too recently replaced my old subs with a pair of PB 1000's. With some experimentation, I was able to get my subs running with the AVR setting the levels at -10dB. (That was what I was aiming for BTW.) Idea being to keep the input low allowing the amp in the sub to do the work. Doing this also leaves room to bump up the level using the amp, without over driving the input on the sub, and helps avoid clipping. It also leaves more power for the AVR to use elsewhere. Evidently, depending on the AVR, (and you didn't mention what you have), it can compensate for -11.5 down, but that may vary. This is where the experimentation comes in. In mine, I pre-adjusted the levels hot using the sub gain knob, which let Audyssey adjust the levels down in the AVR. Basically, I have 10 dB to play with before I would begin to over drive the input of the sub/output of the amp. If you are already aware of all this, I apologize. Just trying to pay it forward if you will since others have been very helpful to me in getting things set up. IIRC, this discussion was on the "official SVS owners" thread, but of course would be applicable to anybody, regardless of brand.

AND, the answer to your last question is yes. You would actually be better off increasing the volume on your sub a bit rather than bumping it up in the AVR. (I also noticed, after a few times of playing with my subs, that there are detents you can feel as you turn the knob on the sub. (Might be helpful in knowing your starting point if you play with the gain.)

John

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post #1690 of 1694 Old 04-09-2017, 03:55 AM
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FWIW, there was some discussion about this regarding initial setup levels. I too recently replaced my old subs with a pair of PB 1000's. With some experimentation, I was able to get my subs running with the AVR setting the levels at -10dB. (That was what I was aiming for BTW.) Idea being to keep the input low allowing the amp in the sub to do the work. Doing this also leaves room to bump up the level using the amp, without over driving the input on the sub, and helps avoid clipping. It also leaves more power for the AVR to use elsewhere. Evidently, depending on the AVR, (and you didn't mention what you have), it can compensate for -11.5 down, but that may vary. This is where the experimentation comes in. In mine, I pre-adjusted the levels hot using the sub gain knob, which let Audyssey adjust the levels down in the AVR. Basically, I have 10 dB to play with before I would begin to over drive the input of the sub/output of the amp. If you are already aware of all this, I apologize. Just trying to pay it forward if you will since others have been very helpful to me in getting things set up. IIRC, this discussion was on the "official SVS owners" thread, but of course would be applicable to anybody, regardless of brand.

AND, the answer to your last question is yes. You would actually be better off increasing the volume on your sub a bit rather than bumping it up in the AVR. (I also noticed, after a few times of playing with my subs, that there are detents you can feel as you turn the knob on the sub. (Might be helpful in knowing your starting point if you play with the gain.)

John
Thanks for your input. I guess my question is that if after Audyssey it comes back at -10.5, and I bump it up to say -5.5, won't this have the same "loudness" compared to if I were to run Audyssey and have it come back as -5.5. Is there one advantage over the other?
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post #1691 of 1694 Old 04-09-2017, 04:19 AM
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Originally Posted by butie120 View Post
Thanks for your input. I guess my question is that if after Audyssey it comes back at -10.5, and I bump it up to say -5.5, won't this have the same "loudness" compared to if I were to run Audyssey and have it come back as -5.5. Is there one advantage over the other?
No these are different. One of the goals of Audyssey is to level match all speakers and sub. The target sound level is 75db. So post Audyssey the sub will always be at the same level no matter where the sub gain control started. This is assuming the gain wasn't so high that Audyssey wound up with a trim <-12. So in your first example you would be running your sub 5db hot. In the second example you would be running at the default Audyssey levels. You would have to bump sub trim to -0.5 to be equivalent. The former is what you want so you can run it hot and stay well into the negative trim levels.

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post #1692 of 1694 Old 04-09-2017, 05:30 AM
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No these are different. One of the goals of Audyssey is to level match all speakers and sub. The target sound level is 75db. So post Audyssey the sub will always be at the same level no matter where the sub gain control started. This is assuming the gain wasn't so high that Audyssey wound up with a trim <-12. So in your first example you would be running your sub 5db hot. In the second example you would be running at the default Audyssey levels. You would have to bump sub trim to -0.5 to be equivalent. The former is what you want so you can run it hot and stay well into the negative trim levels.
Ok, I think I'm understanding this. So if I set the gain lower so the trim and it comes back at say -10db after audyssey, and then I bump it up to -2db, which would be 8db hot....are you saying this would be better than setting the gain higher initially to get a post audyssey trim at -2db? With everyone else being equal, which scenario would you think would have more output or dynamics? Getting -10db and increasing to -2db, or getting -2db right out of the gates with post audyssey trim?

And, is it "ok" to increase the gain by 8db to get more output? Does this put the amp in a state of potential damage?I guess I still get confused on this whole distortion thing, what the sub is capable of doing, is the sub playing at what the audio mixers intended for us to hear, blah blah blah.

Thank you for taking the time to explain this!
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post #1693 of 1694 Old 04-09-2017, 05:55 AM
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Originally Posted by butie120 View Post
Ok, I think I'm understanding this. So if I set the gain lower so the trim and it comes back at say -10db after audyssey, and then I bump it up to -2db, which would be 8db hot....are you saying this would be better than setting the gain higher initially to get a post audyssey trim at -2db? With everyone else being equal, which scenario would you think would have more output or dynamics? Getting -10db and increasing to -2db, or getting -2db right out of the gates with post audyssey trim?

And, is it "ok" to increase the gain by 8db to get more output? Does this put the amp in a state of potential damage?I guess I still get confused on this whole distortion thing, what the sub is capable of doing, is the sub playing at what the audio mixers intended for us to hear, blah blah blah.

Thank you for taking the time to explain this!
This probably won't answer your questions, but I like to have the gain turned somewhat down when I run MCACC calibration on my system because of an issue I had with an earlier subwoofer. I had my old sub set to auto, but it wouldn't detect a signal until there was a substantial amount of bass in the signal. Then I would hear it kick on and start providing the low frequencies.

With the gain set relatively low on the sub, the AVR sets the channel level higher (arbitrarily I'll say -2 instead of -10). Because the sub channel level is higher, I think a more substantial signal is being sent to the sub, which should allow it to "wake up" with the auto on feature whenever content is playing.

If I wanted to maximize the sub output without regard to it matching the other channels, then after the calibration, I would turn the gain all the way up and set the trim as high as it would go. I wouldn't do that, though, because my goals for this system have little to do with bass maximization.

You bring up a good point, though, about whether it could damage the amp. My guess is that turning everything to "11" could cause problems. Try moderation - middle of the road gain setting and setting the subwoofer speaker level in the AVR within a few decibels of the auto-calibration. Or talk to the SVS guys. I hear they can be pretty helpful.

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post #1694 of 1694 Old 04-09-2017, 10:28 AM
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I cannot speak to the settings on different AVR's. On my Marantz, it is supposed to be able to compensate for initial levels by as much as +/-11.5dB. If I deliberately set the sub levels hot, lets just say +10dB, my AVR will compensate by setting the sub output by -10dB. The final level is 75, or in reality 85 as Audyssey calibrates to 75dB then adds +10 to achieve the 85 that is specified when the master volume is 0dB.

So now the AVR has set the correct level on the sub in relationship to the rest of the speakers, and when you look in the AVR, it registers that the sub level is at -10dB. You now have 10dB to play with before you overdrive the output of the AVR or input of the amp in the sub.. If you increase the sub level by 3dB in the AVR for example, you still have 7dB to play with before you send an input signal that is too hot. You would still be sending a -7dB into the sub, but you are now +3dB coming out of the sub to your ears.

If you began with a setting of 0 in the AVR, then added +3dB you would then be sending a 3dB HOT signal into the sub input. It is best practice to avoid doing that. If the AVR has set the output to 0, then you would want to increase the gain, (volume knob), on the sub to add whatever it is you're looking to achieve.

Check out this post by mthomas47. It is very informative and should be of help: "Official" Audyssey thread Part II

John
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