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post #961 of 1754 Old 08-18-2014, 04:42 PM
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Thanks Jeramy. That's good to hear. Now to keep squirreling away some coin for that bad boy. But I have a feeling I will be choosing which to get first a new sub or the iPhone 6 I know the demand for PV-15x will be up there with the iPhone 6 once the test results get posted for it.


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post #962 of 1754 Old 08-18-2014, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Gamecock24 View Post
Thanks Jeramy. That's good to hear. Now to keep squirreling away some coin for that bad boy. But I have a feeling I will be choosing which to get first a new sub or the iPhone 6 I know the demand for PV-15x will be up there with the iPhone 6 once the test results get posted for it.


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iPhone 6? Pshh... Subwoofer! Subwoofer! Subwoofer!

(PV15x.. PV15x... PV15x...)

It's calling your name man. I know the feeling.. It ends in low-frequency indulgence and satisfaction.
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post #963 of 1754 Old 08-18-2014, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Gamecock24 View Post
Thanks Jeramy. That's good to hear. Now to keep squirreling away some coin for that bad boy. But I have a feeling I will be choosing which to get first a new sub or the iPhone 6 I know the demand for PV-15x will be up there with the iPhone 6 once the test results get posted for it.


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I hear the bass on the iphone speakers is a little thin?
You'll probably still need a sub!

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post #964 of 1754 Old 08-18-2014, 04:50 PM
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iPhone 6? Pshh... Subwoofer! Subwoofer! Subwoofer!



(PV15x.. PV15x... PV15x...)



It's calling your name man. I know the feeling.. It ends in low-frequency indulgence and satisfaction.

You're right iPhone 4s has lasted this long, what's a little longer.


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post #965 of 1754 Old 08-18-2014, 04:55 PM
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I hear the bass on the iphone speakers is a little thin?

You'll probably still need a sub!

Maybe they solved that with the elimination antiquated analog audio and the deployment of all digital earbuds , however that works. Now I will have an excuse to get new headphones too, thanks Tim Cook.


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post #966 of 1754 Old 08-18-2014, 07:33 PM
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@gamecock : You already have a what... Iphone 5?

Your new Iphone 6 will run you multiple hundreds just to get a couple "upgrades" over the previous one.

But a PV15x will change your WHOLE friggin world. Not even worth comparing the bang for the buck upgrade effectiveness

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post #967 of 1754 Old 08-18-2014, 08:04 PM
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@gamecock : You already have a what... Iphone 5?

Your new Iphone 6 will run you multiple hundreds just to get a couple "upgrades" over the previous one.

But a PV15x will change your WHOLE friggin world. Not even worth comparing the bang for the buck upgrade effectiveness

No I have a 4s because I gave my wife the iPhone 5. She will forget all about that sacrifice I made once that PV15x fires off its first notes she already thinks the PSW505 too loud. But I say I have to turn it up so I can the lower freq with that smaller weaker sub


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post #968 of 1754 Old 08-19-2014, 01:49 AM
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I've been looking at the PV15X and see that it uses the Dayton 500w and 1,000w amps. Are these the same Dayton amps you can buy from parts-express.com? I ask because those have a lack of a true "on" setting, with just an off and auto-on. I'm not a fan of relying on the auto on, especially since the Dayton sub-1200 I have has a very insensitive auto on setting. Is that the amp in the PV15X?
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post #969 of 1754 Old 08-19-2014, 06:23 AM
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The amps are stock PE units.

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post #970 of 1754 Old 08-19-2014, 06:31 AM
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I've been looking at the PV15X and see that it uses the Dayton 500w and 1,000w amps. Are these the same Dayton amps you can buy from parts-express.com? I ask because those have a lack of a true "on" setting, with just an off and auto-on. I'm not a fan of relying on the auto on, especially since the Dayton sub-1200 I have has a very insensitive auto on setting. Is that the amp in the PV15X?
Sometimes that auto on relay is not getting a good signal if your setup is not configured right. If you have your sub trim way down on your avr, it is not putting out a lot of voltage. Best thing to do is to turn the trim up on the sub output and turn the gain knob down a little on the sub. That should work.
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post #971 of 1754 Old 08-19-2014, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Pain Infliction View Post
Sometimes that auto on relay is not getting a good signal if your setup is not configured right. If you have your sub trim way down on your avr, it is not putting out a lot of voltage. Best thing to do is to turn the trim up on the sub output and turn the gain knob down a little on the sub. That should work.
It's a known issue with the sub-1200 and I've tried several different settings with the same result. Worse than that problem, and also a known issue, is how quickly it goes into stand-by if a signal isn't detected. Luckily the sub-1200 has the dedicated "on" setting.
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post #972 of 1754 Old 08-19-2014, 12:40 PM
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It's a known issue with the sub-1200 and I've tried several different settings with the same result. Worse than that problem, and also a known issue, is how quickly it goes into stand-by if a signal isn't detected. Luckily the sub-1200 has the dedicated "on" setting.
It is very standard with many subwoofer plate amps to use an auto sensing on/off feature. Only a very few, I have seen have a dedicated on/off feature.

We have had no issues with the SPA 1000/SPA 500 amps.
I use them everyday in our test system. They will "sleep" when bass signals disappear after awhile and then "wake" when a new signal appears. If the SPA 1000 is not "waking" either there is a gain structure issue (weak input signal from the receiver as Pain suggested, or the particular amp is faulty).

So far, we have shipped dozens upon dozens with no issues with a single unit as of yet.

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post #973 of 1754 Old 08-19-2014, 12:42 PM
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Yup, I noted that as well. However, Reaction isn't using the same amp as the one in the SUB-1200. He's using the SP Series, and generally their only fault is a tendency to hum.

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post #974 of 1754 Old 08-19-2014, 12:49 PM
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Yup, I noted that as well. However, Jeremy isn't using the same amp as the one in the SUB-1200. He's using the SP Series, and generally their only fault is a tendency to hum.
The "hum" that has been noted is when a "ground loop" occurs in a system. Traditional amplifiers like the Dayton that are class A/B and have large power supplies are more prone than the digital amps.Most traditional pro audio amps are prone as well.

If a "hum" occurs it usually only takes the addition of a ground lift adapter (or "cheater plug")to the amp or whatever unit in the system is interfacing to create the ground loop. When no ground loops are present, the amp is quite silent.

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post #975 of 1754 Old 08-19-2014, 12:58 PM
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What are the actual specs on the SPA1000? Somewhere I saw the output was actually 950w not 1000w not that I really think that is going to matter but is the 1000w figure RMS or Peak?
Ok I see that on the RA site now I was looking at the Dayton site. I'm still looking for the peak output.

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The "hum" that has been noted is when a "ground loop" occurs in a system. Traditional amplifiers like the Dayton that are class A/B and have large power supplies are more prone than the digital amps.Most traditional pro audio amps are prone as well.

If a "hum" occurs it usually only takes the addition of a ground lift adapter (or "cheater plug")to the amp or whatever unit in the system is interfacing to create the ground loop. When no ground loops are present, the amp is quite silent.

I was also able to quiet it down some with an isolator on the coax for my cable TV connection.

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What are the actual specs on the SPA1000?

Have you checked PE's website?

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post #978 of 1754 Old 08-19-2014, 01:20 PM
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Have you checked PE's website?

Ok that's where I saw the 950w but it didn't say if it was RMS or Peak not until I looked back at the RA site I see 1000w RMS but neither site says what peak output is that I have seen, maybe I just missed that spec somewhere. Either way it should be a known spec.


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post #979 of 1754 Old 08-19-2014, 01:48 PM
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Ok that's where I saw the 950w but it didn't say if it was RMS or Peak not until I looked back at the RA site I see 1000w RMS but neither site says what peak output is that I have seen, maybe I just missed that spec somewhere. Either way it should be a known spec.


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It's 950 RMS. I believe Eric at PE measured the amp himself and got a solid 950 out of it.

A class AB amp will typically have about 3 db of "burst" headroom. Sometimes more and sometimes less.
But I would hesitate to tout it as being "2000w Peak" because it has not been tested in this manner.

I may be in the minority here, but I always thought of RMS power ratings as more useful for bass. Bass is often sustaining, even a kick drum hit isn't that short in the sub region. Even LFE effects like earthquakes and rocket launches are very sustained. Now a snare drum hit on the other hand, that is a different story. It seems to me that peak power ratings would be more relevant in mid and high frequency information.

I am aware that some amps, like ICE and the Speakerpower amps are a "short duration" not a "burst" rating and that is a very applicable form of measurement, since most music and HT content peaks under a few seconds.
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post #980 of 1754 Old 08-19-2014, 03:48 PM
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That's kind of what I was thinking of the peak 1800-2000.
How would the PV15x do with the SA1000 and the other features it offers like the defeatable subsonic filter. Any benefit to that setup.


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That's kind of what I was thinking of the peak 1800-2000.
How would the PV15x do with the SA1000 and the other features it offers like the defeatable subsonic filter. Any benefit to that setup.


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Not really. You actually need the subsonic filter in a ported alignment to protect from over excursion below port tuning.

The actual 18 hz filter in the plate version is pretty mild though. Even in the sealed version we get extension well into the teens with it. I honestly think the best benefit to the SA 1000 is placement flexibility when you need it.

We have one fellow who wants to put four PV 15x behind his screen. Two pairs each stacked between lcr's and with woofers firing forward, ports firing sideways. In that setup we we will probably make the PV 15x's passive and go with rackmount amps since he already has a rack in his dedicated theater. That way he can tweak everything from the rack.

In those instances, the rackmount amps make a lot more sense.

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post #982 of 1754 Old 08-20-2014, 05:12 AM
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It is going to be a snug fit where I am planning on placing the sub so it is good to hear you will an alternate configuration with sub. Spacing saving is the only reason I was inquiring about the SA1000 bc it would free up some space for me. I just wasn't sure if there was any performance gains from using it with the ported sub also.
So when you say forward firing sub do you mean the sub is in the skinny side with the 18" dimension and the port in the long side with 29" dim? If that is the case then with plate amp on the opposite as the sub that may fit my space constraint without me having to move furniture. I still need to take some solid measurements.
I do know my current sub is 15" wide and it does have so e room to spare on either side between the wall and the sofa but I'm not sure how much. And with the PV15x being 18" wide and needing extra width for the amp on the back plus 2-3" of space for the speaker to breath I'd need an extra 6" and I'm not sure if I have that much to shift the sofa and side tables.


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You can send me a pic of your room?

Yes, a lot of people want to have the 18" side be the front to back dimension, with the port and amp sideways. We designed it with that in mind so that it could be used this way on a behind or under the screen setup. A lot of ported subs require much depth which is sometimes an issue for front placement.

In addition it can placed along a side wall with the woofer firing sideways into the room and still not jet out more than 18" into the room. Near-field placement is also possible.

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It is going to be a snug fit where I am planning on placing the sub so it is good to hear you will an alternate configuration with sub. Spacing saving is the only reason I was inquiring about the SA1000 bc it would free up some space for me. I just wasn't sure if there was any performance gains from using it with the ported sub also.
So when you say forward firing sub do you mean the sub is in the skinny side with the 18" dimension and the port in the long side with 29" dim? If that is the case then with plate amp on the opposite as the sub that may fit my space constraint without me having to move furniture. I still need to take some solid measurements.
I do know my current sub is 15" wide and it does have so e room to spare on either side between the wall and the sofa but I'm not sure how much. And with the PV15x being 18" wide and needing extra width for the amp on the back plus 2-3" of space for the speaker to breath I'd need an extra 6" and I'm not sure if I have that much to shift the sofa and side tables.


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post #984 of 1754 Old 08-20-2014, 12:57 PM
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This isn't exactly to scale or anything but it conveys my general arrangement of my seating area there are other items in the room I didn't take the time to draw.

I would ideally like to place the new sub where the old one is so it stays out of sight just for the sake of keeping the wife happy she already hates my towers.


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This isn't exactly to scale or anything but it conveys my general arrangement of my seating area there are other items in the room I didn't take the time to draw.

I would ideally like to place the new sub where the old one is so it stays out of sight just for the sake of keeping the wife happy she already hates my towers.


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Looks like you could have it where the old one sits now, with the woofer firing into the left sofa.
Amp and port facing the wall. You would need to have the port at least a few inches from the side wall (preferably more) but most sofas are more than 34" deep so that may be possible. You may just have to get out the measuring tape and see.

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post #986 of 1754 Old 08-20-2014, 03:27 PM
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On the subject of plate amp vs. separate component, I chose the rack-mount (SA1000) because:

1) It's easier for me to replace the amp later (to upgrade or in case of failure).
2) I like the 12V trigger (eliminates any possibility of issues with the auto-on).
3) I prefer a long run of speaker cable vs. a long run of signal cable.
4) Easier to control/eliminate ground loop noise, and I can put them on a single power conditioner.
5) Makes the cabinets somewhat slimmer without the heat sinks sticking out.
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post #987 of 1754 Old 08-20-2014, 03:27 PM
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Cool I just measures the width between the wall at 22" so shifting the sofa and two tables a couple of inches is doable.

Has anybody else received a sub lately particularly the PV15x. I can't wait to see the test results.


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On the subject of plate amp vs. separate component, I chose the rack-mount (SA1000) because:



1) It's easier for me to replace the amp later (to upgrade or in case of failure).

2) I like the 12V trigger (eliminates any possibility of issues with the auto-on).

3) I prefer a long run of speaker cable vs. a long run of signal cable.

4) Easier to control/eliminate ground loop noise, and I can put them on a single power conditioner.

5) Makes the cabinets somewhat slimmer without the heat sinks sticking out.

Those were just some of my thoughts about replacement or upgrade. I also like the 12v trigger option which my Denon AVR has. Since one guy had mentioned something about having trouble with LFE signal recognition with the auto ON.


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Those were just some of my thoughts about replacement or upgrade. I also like the 12v trigger option which my Denon AVR has. Since one guy had mentioned something about having trouble with LFE signal recognition with the auto ON.
That was with a subwoofer utilizing a different amp than the ones Reaction uses, so you shouldn't have an issue with auto-on if you decide to go with the plate amp.

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post #990 of 1754 Old 08-23-2014, 05:32 AM
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I saw a Labor Day promo on the Reaction blog for any of you guys thinking about buying.


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