How do DIY subwoofers compare to pre-maid? - Page 2 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #31 of 56 Old 02-11-2014, 08:23 AM - Thread Starter
Newbie
 
Sighbot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 11

Wow, 30 replies in just a day.  It's awesome that these forums are so active.  

 

Last night I spoke with a neighbor who has been into home audio for years now and told him I was interested in starting my own little DIY sub project.  I also told him that I wasn't sure what kind of end result I was looking for other than "something that sounds good for both movies and music."  He did a little demo of his setup with some scenes from Transformers 3, Terminator Salvation and then flipped though several genres on Sirius.  

 

The "what are you looking for in a sub" question has been answered! lol

 

He has a SVS PB-1000 and I have never heard anything like it.  That thing was amazing.  Granted, I am definitely a newbie when it comes to this stuff so I wasn't sure if the sub was really that great or if it was just that the pool of other subs that I have heard were that bad.  From what I have read, it really is a very good sub for the $500 that they go for.  The room it was in is similar size/shape of the room I have so his results should be somewhat in line with what I would see.

 

I am still considering the DIY route if I can get similar (possibly better?) results from a beginner level DIY setup that would still be within my $300-$400 budget.  The fact that the SVS comes with a warranty does definitely tip the scales even thought it is still $100 over the high end of what I was hoping to spend

 

With this being an internet direct sub manufacturer I know the costs of retail markup should be reduced compared to a big brand like Klipsch but there is still R&D costs that are figured in.  Do you all still think there is still a worth while savings to be made with a DIY setup over the SVS?

 

Thanks again to everyone for all the feedback and sharing some of your personal experiences. 

Sighbot is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #32 of 56 Old 02-11-2014, 08:27 AM
AVS Special Member
 
bass addict's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: A padded room
Posts: 3,784
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Liked: 211
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sighbot View Post

 Do you all still think there is still a worth while savings to be made with a DIY setup over the SVS?

I think we've answered this question already.

Now it's up to you to make the decision on whether you want to bother building something or buying it. SVS is a great company with great CS. I've owned 4 of their subs and have been very happy with their performance. If I got out of the DIY world, they would be one I'd look to again.

Good luck with your decision; it's going to be a win win for you either way.
steve nn likes this.

Achievement Unlocked

Psychotic Episode Averted

bass addict is online now  
post #33 of 56 Old 02-11-2014, 08:28 AM
 
BeeMan458's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Magalia, CA
Posts: 8,374
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 801
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sighbot View Post

That thing was amazing.  Granted, I am definitely a newbie when it comes to this stuff so I wasn't sure if the sub was really that great or if it was just that the pool of other subs that I have heard were that bad.

I'll vote for a whole lotta both. Welcome to our world.

...biggrin.gif

(how much do you want to spend? We'll easily help you triple that budget)

...tongue.gif
cessna1466u likes this.
BeeMan458 is offline  
post #34 of 56 Old 02-11-2014, 08:38 AM
AVS Special Member
 
steve nn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,207
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 425
Quote:
Originally Posted by bass addict View Post

I think we've answered this question already.

Now it's up to you to make the decision on whether you want to bother building something or buying it. SVS is a great company with great CS. I've owned 4 of their subs and have been very happy with their performance. If I got out of the DIY world, they would be one I'd look to again.

Good luck with your decision; it's going to be a win win for you either way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post

IMO newbies buy subs at a store, be it brickfront or an internet store like Amazon. Old hands go ID, because they know why gear from Hsu, Seaton, JTR and the like offer better value. Those who recognize the value of DIY but are woodworking challenged get kits, while the real bass nuts are scratch built all the way. They're the ones who know that you don't go DIY to get for $250 what you can buy for $300, you go DIY to build for $500 what it would cost at least $2k to buy.

These two posts summarize anything I would have to say on the subject. ID-DIY.. it's all good depending what works for you.

Klipsch RB-75
Klipsch C-7
Klipsch RB-35
On-going SW management class
Denon
PS3
steve nn is offline  
post #35 of 56 Old 02-11-2014, 08:48 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Jon S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Sunny Hawaii
Posts: 2,686
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Liked: 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post

That's not really the case. The HO is intended for a ported cab, the HF for sealed. When loaded into the correct cab the HO will go lower than the HF, with considerably higher output. The black trace in the SPL chart below is the HO ported, the blue trace is the HF sealed:



DIY will seriously outperform store bought on a dollar for dollar basis, but you can't just stick a driver in a box and get the best possible results, You must either know how to properly match a driver to an enclosure or choose a design that's been thoroughly tested.

I had designed the subwoofer with Bass Box Pro... According to it, the driver is actually more optimized for a sealed cabinet than ported. I opted for sealed because the ported cabinet dimensions was just too big for the room...

If it's not a BIG screen, it's not a theater...
Jon S is online now  
post #36 of 56 Old 02-11-2014, 09:01 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Bill Fitzmaurice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 9,533
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 1292
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon S View Post

I had designed the subwoofer with Bass Box Pro... According to it, the driver is actually more optimized for a sealed cabinet than ported.
I can't imagine why, ported is considerably better. WinISD defaults to a ported box with the HO, a sealed box with the HE.
Quote:
I opted for sealed because the ported cabinet dimensions was just too big for the room...
You probably would have been better off with a twelve in a ported cab than that particular fifteen in a sealed for a given total box size.

Bill Fitzmaurice Loudspeaker Design

The Laws of Physics aren't swayed by opinion.
Bill Fitzmaurice is online now  
post #37 of 56 Old 02-11-2014, 09:51 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Jon S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Sunny Hawaii
Posts: 2,686
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Liked: 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post

I can't imagine why, ported is considerably better. WinISD defaults to a ported box with the HO, a sealed box with the HE.
You probably would have been better off with a twelve in a ported cab than that particular fifteen in a sealed for a given total box size.

I already have a 12" RSS315HF subwoofer. The problem I have is the room is pretty large, 18x25x10'. The 12" sub was too small for the room. I added the 15" RSS390HO to augment the bass. I am also planning to replace the 12" sub with a dual driver 12" Polk sealed sub from scratch.

The funny thing is that I used to have two Polk PSW650s with dual 10" drivers in a vented cabinet. The two Polks had a lot of mid bass but nothing below 35Hz... the two sealed subs has a lot oflow bass but not much in the 35-50Hz area...

If it's not a BIG screen, it's not a theater...
Jon S is online now  
post #38 of 56 Old 02-11-2014, 11:29 PM
AVS Special Member
 
chalugadp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 4,543
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 660 Post(s)
Liked: 901
For what you sound like you want the svs sounds good. If you really want to get your hands dirty then diy. I think it was said best that building a 600 buck diy sub to best a 1500 buck commercial or a 1k diy to compete with a 2500 commercial . That's bang for your buck
chalugadp is online now  
post #39 of 56 Old 02-12-2014, 05:25 AM
 
BeeMan458's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Magalia, CA
Posts: 8,374
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 801
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sighbot View Post

I have been putting together my little home theater setup and I am now down to the last piece to finish it off, a sub-woofer.
Quote:
I am hoping to keep the budget in the $300-$400.
Quote:
Thanks in advance for any advice or opinions.

A question, when everything is added together, how much have you spent.....that's everything including cables?

In my opinion, the two most important speakers in a home theater system are the center channel (CC) and the subwoofer system. The CC drives 90% of the dialogue and the subwoofers handle all the bass that has been bass managed over to the subs "AND" handles the LFE duties which is where all of the LFEs are channeled as well as much of the emotional content which producers and sound engineers like to convey via the LFE channel.

My point, as long as you know that your subwoofer budget is expectedly going hurt your LFE and bass managing efforts, you should be good with a $500.00 budget and I would recommend going with a SVS PB-1000. My second recommendation would be to explore this issue a lot further before committing to your current budget of $300.00 - $400.00.

(to the forum, was that a kind enough and socially acceptable effort?)

-
steve nn likes this.
BeeMan458 is offline  
post #40 of 56 Old 02-12-2014, 06:19 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Bill Fitzmaurice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 9,533
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 1292
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon S View Post

I already have a 12" RSS315HF subwoofer. The problem I have is the room is pretty large, 18x25x10'. The 12" sub was too small for the room. I added the 15" RSS390HO to augment the bass. I am also planning to replace the 12" sub with a dual driver 12" Polk sealed sub from scratch.
With a 25 foot dimension you have no cabin gain above 23Hz, which means for all intents and purposes you have no cabin gain that will allow a sealed cab to work well. It has nothing to do with driver size, everything to do with f3. Ideally it will be no higher than the cabin gain corner frequency. The RSS390HO in a sealed box with a Q of 0.7 will have a 46Hz F3, a full octave higher than what you need. Yes, the box is small. What you sacrificed to get that size is what you wanted to get, augmented bass.

Bill Fitzmaurice Loudspeaker Design

The Laws of Physics aren't swayed by opinion.
Bill Fitzmaurice is online now  
post #41 of 56 Old 02-28-2014, 12:47 PM
Advanced Member
 
BrutalBodyShots's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 795
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 37 Post(s)
Liked: 31
I'm relatively new to DIY. Can someone give me an idea of a commercial sub on the market today that would compare to this DIY sub:

15" Dayton Ultimax in a 4ft3 flatpack powered by a 1000W iNuke for ~$420.

I've heard quite a few commerical subs by some of the best brands like SVS and HSU, just wondering which of their models (and price point) would compare to the above DIY build.

A buddy of mine is looking to upgrade his old commercial sub (not a top brand) and I'm pushing him to go with this DIY instead in terms of bang for the buck. He's looking to use it for movies in a pretty small, 1600 cubic foot closed off room.
BrutalBodyShots is offline  
post #42 of 56 Old 02-28-2014, 01:37 PM
AVS Special Member
 
shadyJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 6,493
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 127 Post(s)
Liked: 490
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrutalBodyShots View Post

I'm relatively new to DIY. Can someone give me an idea of a commercial sub on the market today that would compare to this DIY sub:

15" Dayton Ultimax in a 4ft3 flatpack powered by a 1000W iNuke for ~$420.

Here is what WinISD gives me for 2 m distance with a Ultimax 15" powered by 1 kW in a sealed 4'^3 box:


I'm not an expert at winISD though, so hopefully someone else can verify that, I may well have screwed that up. It looks pretty nice though, 110 dB down to 40 Hz. You would get more deep bass by putting the driver in a larger cabinet, although you lose some output around 50 Hz for doing that.
shadyJ is offline  
post #43 of 56 Old 02-28-2014, 02:18 PM
AVS Special Member
 
steve nn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,207
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 425
Oh yeah! you're off a good 20dB shady wink.gif

Klipsch RB-75
Klipsch C-7
Klipsch RB-35
On-going SW management class
Denon
PS3
steve nn is offline  
post #44 of 56 Old 02-28-2014, 02:45 PM
AVS Special Member
 
shadyJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 6,493
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 127 Post(s)
Liked: 490
That either makes that project an amazing performer with 130 dB at 40 Hz, or a dismal performer with only 90 dB max output at 40 Hz. Looks like the only way to know for sure is to build one myself, I will put in the order for the parts tonight and hopefully have one done by the weekend so I can have this mystery solved once and for all.
shadyJ is offline  
post #45 of 56 Old 02-28-2014, 07:45 PM
AVS Special Member
 
steve nn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,207
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 425
What are you going to run it with?

Klipsch RB-75
Klipsch C-7
Klipsch RB-35
On-going SW management class
Denon
PS3
steve nn is offline  
post #46 of 56 Old 03-01-2014, 12:28 AM
Advanced Member
 
BrutalBodyShots's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 795
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 37 Post(s)
Liked: 31
Can anyone take a guess as to a commercial sub that would be on par with it?

I'm telling my buddy that he'd have to pay likely twice that (~$800-900) to be able to touch that performance just based on some of what I've read from much more knowledgeable posters on this forum, but I have not experienced Dayton's first hand to really make that call.
BrutalBodyShots is offline  
post #47 of 56 Old 03-01-2014, 06:41 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Bill Fitzmaurice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 9,533
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 1292
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrutalBodyShots View Post

I'm telling my buddy that he'd have to pay likely twice that (~$800-900) to be able to touch that performance just based on some of what I've read from much more knowledgeable posters on this forum, but I have not experienced Dayton's first hand to really make that call.
That's a fair enough estimate.

Bill Fitzmaurice Loudspeaker Design

The Laws of Physics aren't swayed by opinion.
Bill Fitzmaurice is online now  
post #48 of 56 Old 03-01-2014, 08:03 AM
Advanced Member
 
BrutalBodyShots's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 795
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 37 Post(s)
Liked: 31
Cool. I was thinking based on what I've read on this forum that it could probably slightly outperform the SVS PB-2000, a $799 sub... but again, I'm just going off of what I've read and having not actually heard a DIY application it's very tough for me to make that call.

Is that Winisd program that I hear so much about on here pretty easy to use? I just probably score a copy.
BrutalBodyShots is offline  
post #49 of 56 Old 03-03-2014, 06:24 AM - Thread Starter
Newbie
 
Sighbot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 11

So a couple of weeks ago I nearly ordered a PS12-NSD while they were on sale.  Some family issues came up and I had to lend out some money so I put off the order.  By the time things got straightened out the deal was over so I have taken the time to dig into the DIY route instead.

 

The original $300-$400 then $500 budget is definitely going to be somewhat ignored.  Not to say there is no budget but it is definitely a lot more "liquid"  than it was as I am now looking at this as more of a project rather than just a purchase.

 

Here is a little update on what I am thinking.  Hoping to get started on building either this weekend or next depending on when I finish up my current project for work.  

 

Driver:  Dayton Audio Ultimax (12" or 15")

AMP:  iNuke1000 or 3000 or 1000dsp (3000 watts is overkill and I am not sure if DSP is needed or not, still researching)

Enclosure:  if I go 12", then 4 cu ft ported flatpack here

                 if I go 15", then I am leaning towards the martycube

 

I really like the look of the Ultimax subs and they seem to be pretty good.  The amp of choice right now would probably be the inuke 3000, I can always just turn it down and the extra power gives room for experimenting in the future.  For the enclosure, I am currently leaning towards the flatpack route just because this will be my first project so I think it would be best to simplify things for now.  The martycube does look tempting though I am not sure how well that would work out with the 15" ultimax.  Planning on learning and playing around with Winisd this afternoon after work.

 

All said and done I am thinking the total cost of whichever route I go will be closer to the $600-$800 range.   

 

Thanks for all the feedback guys.  Time to head back over to the DiY forums and get back to the endless reading.  

 

Feel free to let me know what you think and/or critique what I have narrowed my choices down to.  

Sighbot is offline  
post #50 of 56 Old 03-03-2014, 06:55 AM
Member
 
Shan87's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 141
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 26
Don't expect to get a full 3000 watts out of the Inuke amp... realistically 1000-1500watts. I'd say go with the martycube.
Shan87 is offline  
post #51 of 56 Old 03-03-2014, 08:47 AM
AVS Special Member
 
jbrown15's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Vancouver B.C.
Posts: 5,476
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 516 Post(s)
Liked: 813
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shan87 View Post

Don't expect to get a full 3000 watts out of the Inuke amp... realistically 1000-1500watts. I'd say go with the martycube.

I think you'd get a little more then that no? I know that the inuke 6000's has been bench tested to roughly 2100watt per channel @ 4ohms. And the 6000 is basically two 3000 in the same chassis isn't?

My Gear:

JTR Noesis 228HT (LCR)
Axiom Audio QS8 surrounds
Sherbourn PA 7-350
Pioneer VSX-21TXH
JVC RS45
Falcon Screens FVHD105
Dual PSA XS30's (gone but not forgotten)
jbrown15 is online now  
post #52 of 56 Old 03-03-2014, 08:49 AM
AVS Special Member
 
basshead81's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Fort Wayne, IN
Posts: 5,858
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked: 1398
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrown15 View Post

I think you'd get a little more then that no? I know that the inuke 6000's has been bench tested to roughly 2100watt per channel @ 4ohms. And the 6000 is basically two 3000 in the same chassis isn't?

The inuke 3000 delivers around 550 watts per channel rms long term @ 4ohms. Short burst power may be more but I choose to follow the long term rms ratings, not what the amp can put out for short bursts. smile.gif

Op, these are what I would build.
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1516724/martysub-flatpacks/960#post_24431426
basshead81 is offline  
post #53 of 56 Old 03-03-2014, 09:02 AM
AVS Special Member
 
jbrown15's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Vancouver B.C.
Posts: 5,476
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 516 Post(s)
Liked: 813
Quote:
Originally Posted by basshead81 View Post

The inuke 3000 delivers around 550 watts per channel rms long term @ 4ohms. Short burst power may be more but I choose to follow the long term rms ratings, not what the amp can put out for short bursts. smile.gif

Op, these are what I would build.
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1516724/martysub-flatpacks/960#post_24431426

True but short term bursts are also what's going to toast a VC no? The UXL-18's VC can handle 2000watts, I wouldn't hook up an amp to one that was capable of 2000watt RMS.

My Gear:

JTR Noesis 228HT (LCR)
Axiom Audio QS8 surrounds
Sherbourn PA 7-350
Pioneer VSX-21TXH
JVC RS45
Falcon Screens FVHD105
Dual PSA XS30's (gone but not forgotten)
jbrown15 is online now  
post #54 of 56 Old 03-03-2014, 09:08 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Montekay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Austin TX Area
Posts: 1,014
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 30
I'm very much in the DIY camp on this but I would concede that there is a price point where DIY would not be a solution if cost savings is the primary objective. When you get below a few hundred dollars and you're going DIY, you're doing it for the fun and the feeling of accomplishment over cost savings. Personally I believe those things are worth something so I would still go DIY unless I just needed something right now and had no time to construct it. The other end of the spectrum is where DIY definitely offers cost savings. When you get into the thousands of dollar budget range then commercially built systems can never match DIY for the price.

For me, the biggest advantage of DIY is lack of limitations. I'm not aware of any commercial options like the DIY woofer system I put in my home theater. http://www.mfk-projects.com/Home_Theatre/theatre_woofer.html As far as I know, there simply are no commercial options like this. If there were, it would certainly cost more than the cost of materials, tools (including the CNC) and everything else that went into the cost of constructing these. Also, DIY allows me to customize any way I want, I'm not limited to the pretty much all the same commercially available options.

I don't think DIY is for everyone, not everyone enjoys building things. If building it is viewed as a chore or as work, it may well be more efficient to put in a few hours of overtime at work and pay the difference for a commercially made system, that is as long as the limitations of these systems is not a concern. If however the construction of the DIY system is viewed as pleasure then there is no need to factor in any labor cost to the project. In fact that might be a savings within itself, as entertainment cost savings!

mk
Montekay is offline  
post #55 of 56 Old 03-03-2014, 09:12 AM - Thread Starter
Newbie
 
Sighbot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by basshead81 View Post


Op, these are what I would build.
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1516724/martysub-flatpacks/960#post_24431426

I saw that the other day.  Definitely a very nice build.

 

Curious how the 2' cube would work out with the 15" Ultimax.  Will be reading up on WinISD modeling later today.

Sighbot is offline  
post #56 of 56 Old 03-03-2014, 09:17 AM
AVS Special Member
 
basshead81's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Fort Wayne, IN
Posts: 5,858
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked: 1398
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sighbot View Post

I saw that the other day.  Definitely a very nice build.

Curious how the 2' cube would work out with the 15" Ultimax.  Will be reading up on WinISD modeling later today.

I would think it would work fine. I would probably go with the SI HT 15" tho.
basshead81 is offline  
Reply Subwoofers, Bass, and Transducers

Tags
Svs Pb12 Nsd Black Vinyl 12 Inch Powered Subwoofer , Svs , Klipsch Sub 12 , Klipsch , Svs Pb1000 10 Inch 300 Watt Powered Subwoofer , Dayton Audio Rss315hf 4 12 Reference Hf Subwoofer 4 Ohm , Xs30
Gear in this thread

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off