Originally Posted by rcohen
No problem placing speakers on subs.
Have you considered a false wall and an acoustically transparent screen? Whatever makes you happy, of course, but I would think that a 65" screen will seem tiny compared you the world-class audio experience you will have.
I agree, but I'm sitting about 7-8 feet from the screen so a 65" should be fine. I mean, right now, with my current home theater, I have a 42" screen and sit about 11-12 feet back. This will be a huge upgrade for me.
Originally Posted by craig john
I would be concerned about the stability of the speakers, especially if they are in a "traffic pattern." You don't show doors in your diagram, so I can't tell if the speakers would be in a traffic pattern or not, but if they are, I would be concerned about them getting bumped or moved or even falling off the subs. Otherwise, if that's not an issue, then you should be fine. As I said before, the SubM cabinets are completely inert, so vibrations are not an issue.
This is not an issue at all. The SubM cabinets are strong enough to hold the speakers, on stands or directly on top of the box. I initially placed my Atlantic Technology THX U2's on top of my SubM's. They didn't weigh quite as much as the Cat8's, (53# vs. 66#), but there was no problem at all. I've already sat on my SubM's during bass heavy content just to see if I could feel any vibration. I weigh 185# so 66# should be no problem.
Originally Posted by Kain
4. I can only support a TV size of about 65" max. I don't think there is any reason to get a projector. Plus, I'll have to deal with fan noise and bulb replacements.
Big sound benefits from a big image. I'm just sayin'...
quote name="Kain" url="/t/1531465/calling-those-with-multiple-subwoofers/30#post_24728745"]5. The problem with placing the surround on the door like you posted, the door is actually in the small path-way in my drawing. I would have to place the sofa/couch pretty much against the back wall for this to work. Secondly, the sliding door on the other side of the room is made of glass (I have not illustrated this door in the drawing but it is opposite to the long table-like thing in the drawing). Not going to work. The long table-like thing running in my drawing is the built-in closet. Cannot mount any speakers to it because I highly doubt it will support them.
You gotta do what you gotta do.
Unsolicited Editorial Comment, (and even though you didn't ask...):
I have to say that the system you're planning will be MASSIVELY overwhelming to your room. You'll be able to control it with the Master Volume Control, but you are seriously paying for performance you will NEVER use... in that room. Your current room is just slightly over 1,000 cubic feet and it looks like you will be sitting about 9' from your front speakers. You could easily use Cat8's in the front and get just as good performance... and save yourself some significant coin. The 8C's are spec'd to 65 Hz and they're sealed. You could easily use an 80 or 100 Hz crossover with them, so the extra extension of the 12C's won't be utilized anyway. And with 4 subs, localization of the subs will be a total non-issue. I can see no benefit to the 12C's in your room/system. Maybe Mark Seaton has some other thoughts, and I suggest you ask him.
In terms of the subs, you probably only "need" 2, but if you must have 4, then 2 Master/Slave units will work equally well in your room as 4 separate HPi's... and once again you could save some significant money. Your room is small enough, and you'll be sitting close enough to your subs that you'll NEVER use the slight extra amp power that the separate amps provide. And with the Master?Slave units, the Master and Slave are, by definition "gain-matched" so you would only need to concern yourself with gain-matching the 2 M/S units to each other. Again, Mark may have some other thoughts, and I suggest you ask him. He's a straight shooter and he won't try to "over-sell" you.
Then take the money you save and put it towards room treatments. I can't express how important this is to your ultimate enjoyment of your system. The GIK site I linked previously has some great info on the benefits of acoustic treatment, as does the RealTraps
website. Both companies will do treatment plans, and both ship internationally. If you don't want to buy from them, there are plenty of sites on the web that can provide instructions for building your own. Whatever you decide, I strongly urge you to not skip this step. Spending tons of $$$ on speakers and electronics won't guarantee you a great sounding system. Your room will have a bigger impact on what you hear than any other component in your system. Don't ignore it.
End Unsolicited Editorial Comment...
Awesome, thanks! The issue with the slave subwoofers is that you cannot EQ them separately. You need to EQ the master and slave units as one. Will this be a problem? I was under the impression that the slave units were ideal for being stacked on top of the master unit (or placed very closely to the master unit).
Secondly, are the sound characteristics of the CAT-8C the same as the CAT-12C with the 12C being able to go a bit louder? Is this the only difference or does the 12C also have other improvements over the 8C?
Thirdly, do the CAT-8C and CAT-12C move around when the volume is very high? I know the SubMersive HPi+ will not but what about the 8C and 12C?
Fourthly, the reason why I am basically going for total overkill in this room is because I play it LOUD (provided the situation at the time is right). I need something that will keep up and have headroom to spare.
Lastly, how would the Klipsch RF-7 II compare to the CAT-8C (and maybe even the CAT-12C) when hooked-up to a high-powered separate amplifier?
P.S.: Don't worry, I will be incorporating acoustic treatments in this room.