Inuke 3000 or other amp for a funk sub - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 17 Old 06-10-2014, 05:11 PM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
madhuski's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 375
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Liked: 20
So I'm thinking of making a foray into a passive sub and amp. I'm thinking of a funk 18.0, and was thinking of a behringer inuke 3000 (seems to be pretty well reccomended on the DIY section). Being a novice I was hoping you guys could help me out with a few things...

- would this amp be enough power for the funk 18.0?
http://funkaudio.ca/product/18-0-subwoofer-gloss-black

- what adapter cables are needed? I'm not too familiar with the connections here

http://www.behringer.com/assets/NU3000DSP_P0AHO_Rear_XXL.png

- if I can't measure my room and an on letting audyssey do it's thing, doni need the dsp version, or would a regular inuke 3000 be enough?

- is it a problem to leave the amp on 24/7 (I don't notice a 12v trigger)

- would there be a better choice than the inuke?

Thanks -

Check out my WAF approved living room theater

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1526916/my...-1-living-room
madhuski is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 17 Old 06-10-2014, 06:06 PM
AVS Special Member
 
derrickdj1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,498
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 107 Post(s)
Liked: 149
The Berhinger is a nice amp. I use it for my passive subs. Will it work for you? Depends on the RMS/Peak wattage and ohm level of the sub.. My subs are 800/1600 RMS/peak. You can use it it in bridge mode for 3000 watts and split for two subs. It has a very nice DSP and options to shape the sub and room response.
kaiforce likes this.

Klipsch RF 7 based HT 7.4, Pioneer SC 35, Acurus 200 Five, Dayton 18 Ultimxa Dual Sub Cab(2), Dayton 18 Ultimax Large Vented Sub Cab (2), on Berhinger I Nuke DPS amps, Samsung BDP F 7500, Asus/My Book Live HPC 4 TB

Yaquin VK 2100 amp, McIntosh XR 5 speakers, Samsung BDP F 7500
derrickdj1 is offline  
post #3 of 17 Old 06-10-2014, 06:08 PM
Member
 
kaiforce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 166
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked: 32
I agree with derrick, I own the iNuke3000 DSP model, and there is plenty of headroom for the CHT VS 18.1 I currently have in bridged mode, and thats an 8 Ohm sub biggrin.gif

Huski, read this guide about the connectors, it will tell you everything:
http://www.chanemusiccinema.com/forum/showthread.php?47461-derrickdj1-guide-for-the-Inuke-series-of-amplifiers-with-CHT-subs

Connectors I personally bought for it and worked perfectly:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005EKMGO4/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O4D/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I believe 10AWG is the max wire size for that neutrik speakon connector, but I used 12, and it looked like it barely fit, so your call tongue.gif

BTW, long time no see Mr Huski, I put your steel speaker stands to good use cool.gif
kaiforce is offline  
post #4 of 17 Old 06-10-2014, 08:55 PM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
madhuski's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 375
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Thanks guys - so how would the dayton sa1000 compare to the inuke? It seems much more "plug and play" (idiot proof). Are there any big downsides to it?


Kai - glad your enjoying the stands!

Check out my WAF approved living room theater

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1526916/my...-1-living-room
madhuski is offline  
post #5 of 17 Old 06-10-2014, 10:36 PM
AVS Special Member
 
derrickdj1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,498
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 107 Post(s)
Liked: 149
I had the Dayton amp for around two weeks and it broke. It is easier to use but, the I Nuke is not hard if you read the guide and ask question if you need help. The I Nuke will get more out of your sub, peroid. The nice thing with the I Nuke is you can't mess up anything that can't be undone, lol.

Klipsch RF 7 based HT 7.4, Pioneer SC 35, Acurus 200 Five, Dayton 18 Ultimxa Dual Sub Cab(2), Dayton 18 Ultimax Large Vented Sub Cab (2), on Berhinger I Nuke DPS amps, Samsung BDP F 7500, Asus/My Book Live HPC 4 TB

Yaquin VK 2100 amp, McIntosh XR 5 speakers, Samsung BDP F 7500
derrickdj1 is offline  
post #6 of 17 Old 06-11-2014, 04:12 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
madhuski's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 375
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Liked: 20
so if I don't have the capability to measure my room, I wondered "do I need the dsp version of an inuke".

But I suppose the bigger question is, if I can't measure, would I be better off by sticking to a pre-fab sub with builit is dsp?

Is it an erroneus assumption that, for instance if you dropped a powered funk 18.0 thats had dsp applied to it, it would have a better initial response than the passive 18.0 iwht a behringer or sa1000 amp?

Check out my WAF approved living room theater

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1526916/my...-1-living-room
madhuski is offline  
post #7 of 17 Old 06-11-2014, 04:48 AM
AVS Special Member
 
eljaycanuck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 5,406
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 158 Post(s)
Liked: 542
The only advantage the Dayton has that I can think of is that it's fan-free and, so, is extremely quiet. But fan mods are available for the iNukes that render them relatively quiet (compared to stock).

With no capability to measure, there's not a lot of point to having DSP (although I guess you could always tweak settings "by ear" if you felt like it). That said, if at some point you acquire the capability to measure, having DSP available to make corrections is very convenient.

Since the price difference between DSP and non-DSP versions of iNuke amps isn't very large ($50 on parts-express.com), I'd go with the DSP version. (Either that, or pony up $105 + shipping down the road for a miniDSP.)
eljaycanuck is offline  
post #8 of 17 Old 06-11-2014, 11:31 PM
AVS Special Member
 
derrickdj1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,498
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 107 Post(s)
Liked: 149
Why can't you measure? All you need is a $39 Radio Shack meter and download the free Real Traps test tones and graph paper. It will take roughly an hour. I don't use REW or something similar. Get the DSP, it will allow you to make the adjustment that may be needed to get the bass right for the room. It is only around $30 more.
derrickdj1 is offline  
post #9 of 17 Old 06-12-2014, 06:05 AM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
madhuski's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 375
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Liked: 20
It's not so much the equipment, but more a time issue (with a 4yo and a 6mo, we get maybe an hour to ourselves at the end of the day. The squaw would not be pleased if I used it listening to test tones) - but yes, for the nominal cost probably worth the $30 so that if I do ever get the time....

A couple practical questions-

- how do you connect the receiver output to the amp input? I couldn't "google" a RCA-to-speakon adapter.

- Other than the dayton, are there any other non-pro sub amps out there to look at? I know chase has a couple on his site, and svs sells one, but can't seem to find much else

Check out my WAF approved living room theater

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1526916/my...-1-living-room
madhuski is offline  
post #10 of 17 Old 06-12-2014, 10:20 AM
AVS Special Member
 
derrickdj1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,498
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 107 Post(s)
Liked: 149
For setup of the connections and amp, see post #3 and go to the Chane website.

Klipsch RF 7 based HT 7.4, Pioneer SC 35, Acurus 200 Five, Dayton 18 Ultimxa Dual Sub Cab(2), Dayton 18 Ultimax Large Vented Sub Cab (2), on Berhinger I Nuke DPS amps, Samsung BDP F 7500, Asus/My Book Live HPC 4 TB

Yaquin VK 2100 amp, McIntosh XR 5 speakers, Samsung BDP F 7500
derrickdj1 is offline  
post #11 of 17 Old 06-12-2014, 06:36 PM
pbc
AVS Special Member
 
pbc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 5,376
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 29 Post(s)
Liked: 31
If you cant measure, IMO, don't buy a passive sealed sub. Unless Nathan is able to help with you with some recommended settings.
pbc is offline  
post #12 of 17 Old 06-12-2014, 10:04 PM - Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
madhuski's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 375
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by pbc View Post
If you cant measure, IMO, don't buy a passive sealed sub. Unless Nathan is able to help with you with some recommended settings.
Thanks - I've been pondering wether to buy a subM or the passive funk. I really like the size/WAF of the funk, but the issue you brought is one of my major hang ups.

So what would be the downside of putative a passive sub into a room (and not measuring) compared to a sub that's allready had dsp applied to it (like the seaton or a psa sub, for example)?

Check out my WAF approved living room theater

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1526916/my...-1-living-room
madhuski is offline  
post #13 of 17 Old 06-13-2014, 08:21 AM
Member
 
kaiforce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 166
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked: 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by madhuski View Post
A couple practical questions-

- how do you connect the receiver output to the amp input? I couldn't "google" a RCA-to-speakon adapter.
It's actually a RCA to XLR3M
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The speakon connector is for amp to passive sub.
kaiforce is offline  
post #14 of 17 Old 06-13-2014, 11:46 AM
pbc
AVS Special Member
 
pbc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 5,376
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 29 Post(s)
Liked: 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by madhuski View Post
Thanks - I've been pondering wether to buy a subM or the passive funk. I really like the size/WAF of the funk, but the issue you brought is one of my major hang ups.

So what would be the downside of putative a passive sub into a room (and not measuring) compared to a sub that's allready had dsp applied to it (like the seaton or a psa sub, for example)?
Generally speaking, a powered sub will have an EQ (or a few EQ's, I think the SubM has 2 or 3 presets?) tailored to the specifics of the overall driver/box/amplifier combo so that the end user doesn't have to worry about doing this themselves. On top of this the protection circuitry has also been pre-defined/configured to protect the driver from abuse.

With a passive sub, you have to EQ the low end yourself either by way of a low shelf filter or L/T implementation, and if you don't know what you're doing you could do more harm than good and I'm not sure how you'd even know how much to boost and where. Further, there is no protection for the sub itself, and if you can't measure it and/or don't know the specific parameters of the sub, don't really know how to protect it.

Given that the 18.0 is sold with its own amp, I would imagine Nathan can assist with helping setup the settings on the iNuke to mimic what a pre-installed amp would otherwise have had.

Having said that, that is likely part of what you'd otherwise be paying for by buying the powered version, plus given the number of different amps and DSP's available, it may not be feasible for Funk to offer this assistance (not to mention the potential liability should the driver get damaged and the owner attempt to blame the settings he was recommended to use).

Having said all that, it is a sealed sub so likely not as susceptible to damage as would be a driver in a ported enclosure. Heck, there was another sub/speaker manufacturer who sold passive subs and simply let Audyssey do whatever it thought it needed to to EQ the sub, and I didn't hear too many issues of damage to those subwoofers. So what do I know.

I do know that if I was incapable of measuring subs or understanding how to best EQ it, I'd probably lean more towards active systems than passive systems.

Funk makes some awesome looking and capable subs though, so you could always shoot Nathan or whomever (I've always dealt with Nathan so not really sure if he has anyone else there that services customers) and ask before you buy! Especially if the form factor is what you are looking for.

 

My DIY Subs ... http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1233892

Quote:

J Dunlavy:.. if you stop to think about it, no loudspeaker can sound more accurate than it measures.

 

pbc is offline  
post #15 of 17 Old 06-13-2014, 02:59 PM
AVS Special Member
 
derrickdj1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,498
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 107 Post(s)
Liked: 149
Buying a passive is not much different than buying a powered sub with no EQ. A bass boost of 3-6 db may be need at 20 Hz depending on room size and room gain. It is extremely hard to damage a sealed sub and no HPF is needed. It seems harder to use but, it is not that hard. I had no experience with pro-amps or passive subs where I brought the I Nukes and passive sub.
I wrote a step by step guide on the Chane website to save others time and confusion. It is around 3 paragraphs so, not to complicated.

Klipsch RF 7 based HT 7.4, Pioneer SC 35, Acurus 200 Five, Dayton 18 Ultimxa Dual Sub Cab(2), Dayton 18 Ultimax Large Vented Sub Cab (2), on Berhinger I Nuke DPS amps, Samsung BDP F 7500, Asus/My Book Live HPC 4 TB

Yaquin VK 2100 amp, McIntosh XR 5 speakers, Samsung BDP F 7500
derrickdj1 is offline  
post #16 of 17 Old 06-13-2014, 05:13 PM
pbc
AVS Special Member
 
pbc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 5,376
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 29 Post(s)
Liked: 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by derrickdj1 View Post
Buying a passive is not much different than buying a powered sub with no EQ. A bass boost of 3-6 db may be need at 20 Hz depending on room size and room gain. It is extremely hard to damage a sealed sub and no HPF is needed. It seems harder to use but, it is not that hard. I had no experience with pro-amps or passive subs where I brought the I Nukes and passive sub.
I wrote a step by step guide on the Chane website to save others time and confusion. It is around 3 paragraphs so, not to complicated.

A single PEQ boost at 20hz? At what Q?

I needed an LPF (not a PEQ boost) of 4db if I recall at around 27 or 29hz along with a PEQ around 39hz for my system to get it flat to around 10hz in my smallish room. I don't know many sealed subs that work well with a single "boost" at 20hz,unless you have a very large sealed sub in a small sub with lots of gain.

I do know for instance the pprotective circuitry put into the SB13 for instance is one of the finest examples of protection I've experienced, Can push the system as hard as you want and barely get it to make a whimper. That's what you're paying for with an amp specifically designed for the sub system.

I do agree sealed subs have much less concerns around damaging the driver than a ported woofer. Especially for a driver the likes of what goes into the Funk subs.
pbc is offline  
post #17 of 17 Old 06-14-2014, 10:16 AM
AVS Special Member
 
derrickdj1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,498
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 107 Post(s)
Liked: 149
The Funk sub is sealed. You don't need a LPF. Suggest for initial amp settings is in the guide.

Klipsch RF 7 based HT 7.4, Pioneer SC 35, Acurus 200 Five, Dayton 18 Ultimxa Dual Sub Cab(2), Dayton 18 Ultimax Large Vented Sub Cab (2), on Berhinger I Nuke DPS amps, Samsung BDP F 7500, Asus/My Book Live HPC 4 TB

Yaquin VK 2100 amp, McIntosh XR 5 speakers, Samsung BDP F 7500
derrickdj1 is offline  
Reply Subwoofers, Bass, and Transducers

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off