Subwoofer outputting less over time? - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 4 Old 08-09-2014, 09:10 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Gracepreacher's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 74
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Subwoofer outputting less over time?

I've had a Dayton Sub 120 in our living room setup for about 8 years. I've changed receivers 3 times since then, and I also have always split the sub output signal to drive a separate amplifier powering some Aura Pro bass shakers that are mounted under the couch and loveseat. Also over that 8 years, we've added kids to our home, so I have much less time enjoying the home theater and really hearing it for what it can do. Having said that, each time I changed receivers and also periodically when I have a chance, I'll look at settings and tweak if necessary, as I learn more and listen better.

The other day I realized that to get the subwoofer volume I wanted, I had to turn it all the way up, and to me it sounds sluggish and weak...I've actually had this thought for years. I checked the output level in the receiver and it is at its max of +10 (keep in mind that the signal loses half when it is split before it arrives at the sub). I am almost certain that I used to run the gain years ago at about 1/2 (the room or placement has not changed).

I called Parts Express to pick their brains, as they are always so helpful. I mentioned that I had a Dayton Sub 800 in the bedroom that I just got in the past year, and that I find it to be superior at this point...tighter and more accurate (of course, it doesn't go as low), and plenty of presence (albeit in a smaller room) at 1/2 gain. They suggested doing some trouble-shooting by pulling the Sub 800 into the living room and A/B. I found that while the gain did have to be turned up all the way, I could get more out of the Sub 800 than the Sub 120.

The Sub 800 is an 8 inch driver powered by 80 watts. The Sub 120 is a 12 inch driver powered by 150 watts. The designs look similar. Is there any case where the Sub 800 should outperform the Sub 120 when they are both on the same receiver/settings, both full gain? Or, have I sufficiently determined that I'm not smoking crack, and the Sub 120 isn't what she used to be and either needs a repair or replacement? For the time being, I've bypassed the bass shakers and given the Sub 120 full signal, still +10 on receiver sub output, still full gain on the sub. The level is fine this way, but I've never had to run anything full throttle like that before, and I still wish she sounded nice and tight like the Sub 800 (but this could be the nature of the driver size).

Obviously if I'm buying Dayton stuff, I work within a tight budget...please don't blow me off and say I need to spend more on quality products or something...we all do what we can with what we have, and you'll find plenty of people that boast about the bang for buck some of the Dayton subs have offered for many years. For the money, they have definitely not let me down.

I would like to get back to being able to run my bass shakers AND sub without a compromise in LFE level from the sub. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Chris

Last edited by Gracepreacher; 08-09-2014 at 11:08 AM.
Gracepreacher is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 4 Old 08-09-2014, 10:09 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Bill Fitzmaurice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 9,669
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 1348
Amps generally tend to work well or not at all. The two possibilities for the driver not working as well as it used to is a bad surround and air leaks in the cab. A bad surround is visually obvious. Cab leaks aren't so obvious, but one way to find them is to play a 20 to 25Hz test tone at a relatively low level. If there are leaks in the cab or around the driver you'll hear the air movement in the leaks, while the 20 to 25Hz test tone itself will be inaudible at low levels.

Bill Fitzmaurice Loudspeaker Design

The Laws of Physics aren't swayed by opinion.
Bill Fitzmaurice is online now  
post #3 of 4 Old 08-09-2014, 02:16 PM
AVS Special Member
 
derrickdj1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,460
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 95 Post(s)
Liked: 146
A amp is under a lot of stress also since it is a 150 watt amp split to power the sub and shakers. Bill gave a great suggestion.

Klipsch RF 7 based HT 7.4, Pioneer SC 35, Acurus 200 Five, Dayton 18 Ultimxa Dual Sub Cab(2), Dayton 18 Ultimax Large Vented Sub Cab (2), on Berhinger I Nuke DPS amps, Samsung BDP F 7500, Asus/My Book Live HPC 4 TB

Yaquin VK 2100 amp, McIntosh XR 5 speakers, Samsung BDP F 7500
derrickdj1 is offline  
post #4 of 4 Old 08-09-2014, 04:54 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
Gracepreacher's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 74
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by derrickdj1 View Post
A amp is under a lot of stress also since it is a 150 watt amp split to power the sub and shakers. Bill gave a great suggestion.
That's not the case because the bass shakers have their own amp:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gracepreacher View Post
...I also have always split the sub output signal to drive a separate amplifier powering some Aura Pro bass shakers that are mounted under the couch and loveseat.
I'll try getting some low frequency signals running to it and check for leaks...
Gracepreacher is offline  
Reply Subwoofers, Bass, and Transducers

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off