10 hertz subwoofer - Page 2 - AVS Forum
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post #31 of 48 Old 08-15-2014, 10:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MKtheater View Post
The easy solution is this,
How loud at 10hz do you need? Is this in a room(30 feet away?) again how do you see the screen from 30 plus feet.
I don't know anything about decibels. But loud enough so you can feel it really good but not that it hurts your ears.
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post #32 of 48 Old 08-15-2014, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Infrawarrior View Post
After reading the comments it seems better to reduce the 10 meters to 5 meters (16 feet).
Also 15-20 Hz will probably be a more realistic frequency. I just want to feel the bass more than you can hear it. Maybe 10 Hz was a too high expectation. Thanks all of you!
Lets get to the basics here shall we. First I take it you did not read the faq stickied at the top of this section. Before any of us can actually offer a good solution for your requirements, we need more info.

1) Room size and is it open or sealed.

2) what percentage of source do listen to the most(movies/tv/music)

3) how loud do you listen? Reference(115-120db) or more/less?

4) what do you have for reciever and speakers?
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post #33 of 48 Old 08-15-2014, 10:17 AM
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He said he wants to feel it more than hear it, well that only happens at 20hz and below. I think shakers will be his best bet. Even with loud 10hz ported monsters the midbass will be loud unless he runs a ridiculous house curve.
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post #34 of 48 Old 08-15-2014, 01:10 PM
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What is the OP doing, building a theater or a dance club?

Where is he gonna find all this low bass from? Is the OP gonna listen to heavy bass-techno all day long?
99% of music doesn't go below 25hz.

7hz sinewave

12hz sinewave

Song with 13hz at the start, and then mostly 23hz and 46hz in it.

Full sized pipe organs?

or just bass-heavy-movies list stuff?
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post #35 of 48 Old 08-15-2014, 04:27 PM
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It's not that tough if you can spare the space for a large enclosure.

Buy two Stereo Integrity HT18's or Dayton Ultimax 18's and then build the enclosures linked in my sig.

My Dual 18" LLT subs 120dB down to 10hz

 

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post #36 of 48 Old 08-15-2014, 06:44 PM
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Those are some big subs Scott.

Klipsch RF 7 based HT 7.4, Pioneer SC 35, Acurus 200 Five, Dayton 18 Ultimxa Dual Sub Cab(2), Dayton 18 Ultimax Large Vented Sub Cab (2), on Berhinger I Nuke DPS amps, Samsung BDP F 7500, Asus/My Book Live HPC 4 TB

Yaquin VK 2100 amp, McIntosh XR 5 speakers, Samsung BDP F 7500
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post #37 of 48 Old 08-16-2014, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post
Since you are in europe and european subwoofers generally suck, you'll need to buy NA subwoofers, so you will need about 5-8k euros for shipping and purchase.
I'd recommend quad UXL-18's powered by two inuke6000DSP's, and one hell of a shipping fee and taxes.

If that doesn't knock your socks off then you are a true basshead.

Here is the top loudest AVS member systems and what equipment they are running to get there, there are several in the $6-10k range.
I don't get this list? Without even adding my ports or 4 more 18's I still hit 128 dBs at 20hz. Why show 116.8dBs at 10hz if this list is loud outside? I mean most will hit louder at higher frequencies as well, why these particular numbers? For an example, you are showing two DTS-10's being louder than many and I owned two DTS-10's and trust me, they are not louder.
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post #38 of 48 Old 08-16-2014, 11:27 AM
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I believe Bass posted this chart to give the op a idea what it takes to get good 10hz output. Not all rooms are the same so it is best to use groundplane for comparison. Just because you get 128db' @ 10hz in your room does not mean I would get that in mine. Actually I would be suprised if I hit more then 122-123db @ 10hz with your setup in my room. Besides that the OP was originally talking about 30ft away, so at that point I would not be suprised is he would even hit the ground plane estimates from that distance.
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post #39 of 48 Old 08-16-2014, 11:46 AM
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I am saying is that my sims, not my room, show 116.7 dBs at 10hz but 128 dBs at 20hz as well but Bassthathz used the lesser number but used higher frequencies for others where the spl's are higher.


So he used 20hz for himself, well 20hz for me would be 128 dBs. My new setup would be 132 dBs at 20hz. My new 5hz would be 117 dBs, 6hz is 129.2 dBs, and 10hz is 125 dBs. So if you use my 5hz it would be down the list and gives the person and idea that dual DTS-10's play louder than a massive IB because I am lower on the list and this is not true. I am not even adding rom gain here. He should keep it at either the same frequency or something.
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post #40 of 48 Old 08-16-2014, 11:56 AM
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Ahh...I see what you are saying. Yea should of just listed everybodies 10hz output which would scratch me off the list lol.
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post #41 of 48 Old 08-16-2014, 12:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MKtheater View Post
I am saying is that my sims, not my room, show 116.7 dBs at 10hz but 128 dBs at 20hz as well but Bassthathz used the lesser number but used higher frequencies for others where the spl's are higher.


So he used 20hz for himself, well 20hz for me would be 128 dBs. My new setup would be 132 dBs at 20hz. My new 5hz would be 117 dBs, 6hz is 129.2 dBs, and 10hz is 125 dBs. So if you use my 5hz it would be down the list and gives the person and idea that dual DTS-10's play louder than a massive IB because I am lower on the list and this is not true. I am not even adding rom gain here. He should keep it at either the same frequency or something.
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Originally Posted by basshead81 View Post
Ahh...I see what you are saying. Yea should of just listed everybodies 10hz output which would scratch me off the list lol.
Guys, bassthathz just sorted by groundplane SPL, and that's the list that he ended up with. He wasn't excluding or including any particular score for a particular reason.

The reason why your 10hz score only shows there, is because that's all I have you listed for. Your 12.5hz scores and up aren't in the list. I originally was just adding the lowest extension for each member with the thought that (from a ULF score perspective) your score will be similar for the other scores. But as members mixed ported and sealed, some would have significantly better ULF scores in the upper ULF, so I added those to the list to show that. Now that GP estimates are in there, other folks wanted to see all of the ULF scores and GP estimates (like bassthathz).

I can start adding all ULF scores to the list, but then the list starts to get very long...will think about how to do this in a better way...
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post #42 of 48 Old 08-16-2014, 02:12 PM
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I know Dominguez1, I am just saying the list is accurate except with someone looking it seems you have to spend $6-10k for massive output and that is not true. He said see this list and if he is a newb he might think that one needs to spend. My IB hits 128 dBs ground plane at 20hz and it cost me $2000 to build. I don't use all the 14k's power either so one can save on amps except I like the low end from it. The ported system I am getting adds $830 for woofs and $350 for amp to get to 132 dBs at 20hz. My total system will cost $4000 everything in! That is 129.2 dBs at 6hz ground plane. Nevermind my 1500 cubed most likely smaller room.
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post #43 of 48 Old 08-16-2014, 02:24 PM
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I know I was just referring to this thread for comparison. I understand your reasoning specifically in the ULF thread.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dominguez1 View Post
Guys, bassthathz just sorted by groundplane SPL, and that's the list that he ended up with. He wasn't excluding or including any particular score for a particular reason.

The reason why your 10hz score only shows there, is because that's all I have you listed for. Your 12.5hz scores and up aren't in the list. I originally was just adding the lowest extension for each member with the thought that (from a ULF score perspective) your score will be similar for the other scores. But as members mixed ported and sealed, some would have significantly better ULF scores in the upper ULF, so I added those to the list to show that. Now that GP estimates are in there, other folks wanted to see all of the ULF scores and GP estimates (like bassthathz).

I can start adding all ULF scores to the list, but then the list starts to get very long...will think about how to do this in a better way...
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post #44 of 48 Old 08-17-2014, 01:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MKtheater View Post
My IB hits 128 dBs ground plane at 20hz and it cost me $2000 to build.
The OP lives in Europe, so with the currency conversion, taxes, import fees, and shipping, everything basically doubles (or more).
So they can only build half the system.

Usually American's get free shipping or the shipping is included in the base price; for everyone else they are out of luck.

FedEx charges like $4000 to ship 4 UXL-18's to Europe for example. So you'll eat through $10,000 quickly for just quad beefy 18's.

Just ask JapanDave how much it cost him to export 8 RE's and 2 LMS, probably more money than the cost of Buffet's penthouse in downtown New York...
With his amp, I bet it was like 2.5 million yen.

Last edited by BassThatHz; 08-17-2014 at 01:33 PM.
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post #45 of 48 Old 08-18-2014, 10:42 AM
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Yeah but he still does not need to buy $500 and up drivers. He can get 10hz with Stereo Integrity drivers and others as well.
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post #46 of 48 Old 08-18-2014, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by MKtheater View Post
Yeah but he still does not need to buy $500 and up drivers. He can get 10hz with Stereo Integrity drivers and others as well.
I hear ya. I don't think the OP really wants or needs 10hz.
An inuke 3000DSP with dual FI-18's or SI-18's should do well as a starter-kit towards 10hz or ULF, and will cut the shipping way down. Still gonna be 1000 euros or more though...

Then that can be doubled to quads if still not enough ULF for him.
Usually only the crazies go beyond quad 18's. (Some sort of WAF threshold me thinks?)
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post #47 of 48 Old 08-19-2014, 11:15 AM
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Going from my experience in importing SI drivers from the States, basically knock off the $ symbol and swap in a £ symbol and that's a good rough guide to work the price landed!
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post #48 of 48 Old 08-19-2014, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post
FedEx charges like $4000 to ship 4 UXL-18's to Europe for example. So you'll eat through $10,000 quickly for just quad beefy 18's.
the shipping cost for a UXL-18 to the UK is like 2/3 the cost of the driver so MemX is about right, swap the currency symbol and you're there. We need some European driver manufacturers!
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