One can directly compare the CEA-2010 burst data for all the points of the DIY sub that your amp is able to equal the voltage applied which can be found in the static graphs. Note the burst is only 6.5 cycles of the wave long so a particular amp will produce far more than it's (tested) RMS output. Note you should only compare CEA-2010 burst numbers directly within data-bass. The reason is Ricci uses RMS at 2m instead of the CEA convention of Peak at 1M, so for example if you see manufacturer product info claiming significantly higher CEA burst numbers they indeed might not be stretching the truth.
As mentioned the best comparison of the DIY drivers to commercial ones is the long term compression sweeps, but again it is important to determine the sweep closest to your amps available voltage and interpolate from there. For example as a rough guess you can probably get 85 volts into 4 ohms out of 3000 claimed watts from an iNuke either from one channel of a 6000 or a bridged 3000. Also note that many of those highest SPL long term sweeps are well into melt down range for some of the drivers but sine waves are 100% duty cycle vs music which is closer to 20% duty cycle. Also note the DIY drivers are mainly being tested in relatively small sealed boxes and depending on your enclosure the frequency response and SPL at certainly frequencies can be quite different,
I have what I call the Copper Law of DIY subs, apologies to Hoffman. I contend that if you try to clone the a relatively small, good value commercial sub (like most of the subs from the high volume, high value ID companies) making everything as close as one can, size, shape, plate amp, finish etc you save about 1/3 for very similar performance. If you have the room for using, often much larger, enclosures and don't care about looks or they can be hidden the savings increases to over 50% and the performance advantage goes through the roof. With the current pricing on the SI-18HT you could build 2 big ugly LLT subs with amp and DSP for under a grand and even the best value ID subs are going to get crushed.
Finally, this thread has gone way off track BUT I assume most of us were rather confused about the actual question.
So OP, you say you have everything but the wood to build a Marty, which Marty are you considering and which driver and amp have you got to use? I assume the wife's issue with the move to the bedroom is not relevant to us, correct? You have control of the volume of the sub, if you don't want it to shake something, guts or walls, just adjust the volume of the sub. Yep, DIY is pretty much always cheaper for the same or better performance. First the opposite of boomy is not clean, clean usually is used to indicate distortion level, the general phrase for the opposite of boomy is tight. Boomy bass is the vast majority of home systems is not because of a poorly designed sub but one that has been poorly integrated into the room, so someone has "boomy" bass and they get a different sub and it doesn;t sound boomy, this is because they often replace the sub with one that has less output at the frequencies that are the issues with the room (modes). So to PROPERLY integrate a sub one MUST take measurements and use DSP (you need to treat the room as well but most people don't). So plan on adding a mic to your budget (you can download REW for free) as well as DSP like a MiniDSP 2x4 (both are equally useful for a commercial sub). So my advice is build which ever version of the Marty fits your space, hopefully you have a driver that works well in the Marty and a proper amp, now if you have an amp like a Inuke with DSP you don;t need the MiniDSP and if I misunderstood and you do not have an amp consider the Inukes with DSP as the DSP is cheaper that way. In the end go DIY.
BTW If you learn what a homophone is it will make your posts easier to follow. Sorry, could not help it!