* Offical Velodyne Support Thread * - Page 103 - AVS Forum
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post #3061 of 9827 Old 02-07-2007, 04:37 PM
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Hi Curt.
Thanks for the quick answer.
I guess that I somehow need to find a way to move the ON/AUTO swith (or fix a electricity supply ON/OFF swith) for the sub where I can reach it. Not the solution I wanted.
My sub goes into time out after 9 minutes, so I guess I have to choose Hi Octane action movies with minimal intermissions.
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post #3062 of 9827 Old 02-13-2007, 02:32 PM
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What should the volume be set at on my SPL-15r? Is there a max volume I should not go past to avoid damage to the driver or amp? I do not think it has enough output now compared to my Sunfire MK II that is replaced. I am expecting the Velodyne to have more output, am I right?
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post #3063 of 9827 Old 02-13-2007, 02:54 PM
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Hi,
It's best to keep the SPL-1500R in the thirties or forties as maximum. You should increase the output of your receiver's volume for the subwoofer jack and use a 'Y' splitter into both sub's input jacks. The SPL is a sealed box and will have less output than many bass reflex designs. Sealed boxes are noted for ultimate accuracy.
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post #3064 of 9827 Old 02-13-2007, 03:11 PM
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Curt
I had trouble with my Sunfire breaking twice and I am worried about the Velodyne breaking also. I only listen at low to moderate levels, I have three girls under 6 who do not appreciate high levels. If I leave the volume in the forties would you say there is little risk of damaging the subwoofer.
Bradley
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post #3065 of 9827 Old 02-13-2007, 03:44 PM
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Hi,
If you do the things I suggested and you listen at low to moderate levels, and the sub is the correct size for your area, I would think you would be in the twenties or low thirties. The sub should be very reliable if you don't exceed forty. Since you already had the other go twice, are you sure you have a big enough subwoofer. See www.velodyne.com and then 'which product'.
Thanks,
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post #3066 of 9827 Old 02-13-2007, 04:27 PM
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Curt,
How does the HGS-15 and the SPL-1500R compare in terms of output? My dad has the HGS-15 and it rocks. Should my SPL-1500R be comprable to the HGS-15.
Bradley
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post #3067 of 9827 Old 02-13-2007, 04:47 PM
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Hi,
In the exact same setting the HGS-15 has a little more output, especially in the deepest bass. You can never compare different locations though. For maximum output, go with a corner location away from any openings. What is your total cubic displacement including all openings? If you're not sure how to figure, call me.
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post #3068 of 9827 Old 02-15-2007, 05:35 AM
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Curt

On the SMS-1, is the pass through output only active if you have a unbalanced (rca plug) input? I have a balanced input that seems to output both balanced and unbalanced with equalization applied, but the unbalanced pass through seems to not work.

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post #3069 of 9827 Old 02-15-2007, 07:42 AM
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Hi,
Yes the thru-output works only with the unbalanced inputs.
Thanks,
Curt (480) 595-7141
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post #3070 of 9827 Old 02-16-2007, 07:23 AM
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Hello

I have a strange problem with my Velo DD10. It plays the test sweep only from the main speakers but not from the subwoofer.

If I connect the cable from the EQ-out to my amplifier it plays the test signal from the main speakers just allright and shows the graph on my TV. If I disconnect the amplifier cable there is no sound at all in the setup screen. I tried to reset the settings with 8-9-0, but it did not help.

Is there any hard reset option or anything else I could try. The sub works well otherwise when I connect it to my CD-player it works just fine.
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post #3071 of 9827 Old 02-16-2007, 07:37 AM
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Hi,
It appears you may not have the sub-out of your receiver hooked to the input of the DD. Otherwise it's a receiver issue. Make sure you're in a stereo mode.
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post #3072 of 9827 Old 02-16-2007, 07:48 AM
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Thanks Curt for a super fast reply.

I have 2-channel system only, so do I need a "return" cable from the amplifier back to the sub.
I have now only 1 stereo RCA from Velo EQ-out to Amp line1-in.

Thanks in advance.
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post #3073 of 9827 Old 02-16-2007, 09:01 AM
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Hi,
You need an output from your preamp (left and right) to the inputs of the DD. An alternative would be from your power amplifier (left and right) to the speaker-level inputs of the DD. If you have an integrated amp without any pre-outs, you would have to make the speaker-level connection. The DD needs an input. You might want to give me a call.
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post #3074 of 9827 Old 02-16-2007, 09:11 AM
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Curt,

My dealer mentioned 2 years for the amp and 10 years for the driver and cabinet. Can you confirm the Canadian warranty for these DD units?

Thanks,
STeve

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post #3075 of 9827 Old 02-16-2007, 09:44 AM
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Hi,
Any products sold after 1-1-07 have a three year parts and labor warranty on the electronics and a five year parts and labor warranty on the drivers. Sorry for the wrong information.
Thanks,
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post #3076 of 9827 Old 02-16-2007, 10:11 AM
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Works now !
It was just that I have been leading almost 2 happy years with my sub without a need to do any new equalizations, so I had completely forgotten how to hook it for that. Bought just new main speakers so I wanted to make new adjustments.
Great customer support, thank you Curt !
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post #3077 of 9827 Old 02-16-2007, 01:55 PM
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Curt,

I'm aware that the HGS-15s and 18s could only be shipped strapped to a pallet.

Do the DD 15s and 18s have the same requirement??

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post #3078 of 9827 Old 02-16-2007, 02:21 PM
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Hi,
It's certainly our recommendation.
Curt
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post #3079 of 9827 Old 02-16-2007, 02:21 PM
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Does anyone know how long a sub-woofer cable can be? I am planning on using RG6 coax up to 40' from the amp to my Velodyne DPS-12, and was wondering if I would lose anything in terms of response or signal?
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post #3080 of 9827 Old 02-16-2007, 02:35 PM
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Hi,
Forty to fifty feet is generally considered to be the limit for subwoofer line-level runs. You should be fine.
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post #3081 of 9827 Old 02-16-2007, 05:02 PM
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I need a another recommendation.

My room volume is about 4500 cubic feet. For the same price would one be better off with Dual DD10 or a single DD18?

I'm more concerned about SQ and integration. What about from a SPL standpoint, would the Dual DD10's come close to a single DD18?

THanks again,
Steve

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post #3082 of 9827 Old 02-16-2007, 05:41 PM
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Hi,
Of the two choices, certainly the DD-18. No the dual ten's don't have near the output. You should start with a DD-18 and add a second if necessary.
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post #3083 of 9827 Old 02-16-2007, 06:47 PM
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Curt,

A question about my SMS-1. If I power up the SMS-1 via a serial command, no IR commands will then work, just serial commands. To return to IR control I have to turn off the SMS-1 via the front power switch and then turn it back on. I can then use IR commands. However, after doing this, if at any time I send it a serial command, IR does not work again, forcing me to again turn the unit off and then on to regain IR control.

Is it suppose to work this way?

Update: With the setup screen displayed, I see that whenever I send a serial command it goes into "Slave Mode". While in this mode IR does not work. What the heck is "slave mode"?

Thanks,
John

Regards,
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post #3084 of 9827 Old 02-16-2007, 09:23 PM
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My room is 1800 cu with about an 800 cu kitchen attached for about 2600 cu. Oh yea, it is also an apartment, but I hope to be moving into a house by this time next year. Point is that I will not be able to truly push my system unless the neighbors are gone, which does happen.

Anyway I'm going to be auditioning subs tomorrow and have the DD-12 and SPL 1200R on the list. Both are a lot more $$ then the 1K I originally was considering. But my dealer has 2 floor models discounted, DD-12 for $2300 and the SPL 1000R for I think he said 1300.

At this point it is likely I will try to compromise and go with the SPL-1200R online as I have seen some decent prices in the 1500 range

My questions;

Are these subs over kill for me? I will have to listen to them at fairly low levels until I have a more HT friendly living situation.

Are there reputable online dealers for the SPL series?

Are these floor model prices good?

What subs would you suggest? DO you think one should spend as much as they can afford on these things?

My system is: 70/30 music/movie

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Thanks for taking the time

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post #3085 of 9827 Old 02-16-2007, 09:45 PM
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Hey Curt,

Do you know of any upcoming software updates or "tweaks" that will allow the SMS-1 to boost more than 6db?
If so, it sure would make it the must have for the DIY crowd and those with worse than average rooms. I would venture to guess sales would increase substantially as an alternative to the BFD.

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post #3086 of 9827 Old 02-17-2007, 12:35 AM
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jpmst3,

Not speaking for Curt, but you basically want to avoid boost larger than 6 dbs as once you move out of your, it'll sound like a one note sub. Actually, what I do after setting the equalizer, is move the mike across a range of seating positions to be sure that I don't have some peak that didn't show up when measuring just one position.

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post #3087 of 9827 Old 02-17-2007, 06:36 AM
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Jim, that may be true of commercial subs that have the sub pre-EQed for flat anechoic response and the SMS is just being used to tame some in-room peaks. But, that is not true for DIY sealed enclosures (small) wiht low Qes that may need as much as 10db below 20Hz to be flat.

So, being able to have the flexibility to boost 12db for instance would be beneficial for some...even if you only need 7-8db.

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post #3088 of 9827 Old 02-17-2007, 06:46 AM
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jpmst3,

I wasn't aware that DIY subs had this additional requirement. Still seems that you're trying to make the driver do something that isn't designed to do. Could you achieve essentially the same by running the sub louder and using the SMS-1 to reduce the other frequencies??

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post #3089 of 9827 Old 02-17-2007, 06:52 AM
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I wish it were that simple. You have to remember in a sealed enclosure, take the DD-18 for an example to produce a 100db at 50Hz it might take only 200 watts, but to produce 100db at 20Hz might take 1100 watts. So, that sub might already be adding something like a 10db boost at 20Hz, that is before any user adjustable EQ is even considered. It is just physics in a sealed enclosure, hence the 1250 watt amps.

The difference is that this is already done for you when you get a mass produced commercial product. If that boost wasn't present and built-in for the consumer the subs freq response would roll off very quickly possibly starting at 80-100 hz and be down as much as 6-12 db at 20Hz (or more with some drivers/enclosures). Small rooms can help reinforce things down low, but often not nearly enough in not pre-Eqed subs...

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post #3090 of 9827 Old 02-17-2007, 07:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dpnaugle View Post

Are these subs over kill for me? I will have to listen to them at fairly low levels until I have a more HT friendly living situation.

Not really any such thing as overkill in the sub dept. The more capability (headroom) the sub has the less strain it will be under in normal operating conditions and the more capability it will have when called upon to do more. Get the best sub you can afford. The DDs are much more versatile then the SPL series.

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